Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Mitre Rock South Area

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit.

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park - no dogs. No fires allowed Oct-Apr (inclusive).

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route

2 meters L of When Kim Was a Girls Name, up weakness to front of butress and R to finish a the top of WKWAGN

FA: Mark Thomas Jonathan Kendall, 2003

Climb wall direct to a prominent sentry-box at top of cliff.

FA: Chris, Sue Baxter & Dave Gairns, 1983

Face left of "Armageddon" to orange bulge which is turned on right. The bulge has been taken direct at 20 via a line half a metre left of this one.

FA: Peter Martin, Ian Howe & Merv Trease, 1980

The sustained dog-leg crack to a steep, juggy finish.

FA: Chris Baxter & Andrew Smith, 1967

Traverse left and up through a wide crack.

Start: Start 5 metres up and right of "Armageddon" at initials "HB"

FA: Chris Baxter & Andrew Smith, 1967

Go straight up, moving slightly right to a contrived, but worthwhile finish.

Start: Start as for "Hell's Bells"

FA: Peter Martin & Ian Howe, 1980

Offwidth crack 2 metres right of "Hell's Bells"

FA: Chris Baxter & Andrew Smith, 1967

A steep, pure hand-crack splits the front of the second outcrop at the base of the gully.

FA: Dave Gairns & Chris Baxter (FRA), 1983

Gab Wall is a small marbled wall on the right side of the gully. This is worth a look even just to throw a top-rope on the bold routes. Walk up the Hells Bells track and cut across rather than going directly up the gully below the outcrop.

A most sustained mini-route. Crack-seam on left edge of face.

FA: Geoff Butcher, Richard Smith & Dave Mudie, 1989

Good but there's only a 30-year-old piton between you and the deck on the crux and it's a long way up to the next runner.

Hard start 3 metres down right of The Gab Gets Up leads past pin and up to pocket (cam). Finish to right.

FA: Dave Mudie & Richard Smith, 1989

Lovely face but the cryptic name and ascentionists should give pause; the eman is not a misnomer. The grade has been arbitrarily bumped up from 18 to 20 and the deadly flag applied to give fair warning. A toprope inspection is advised.

The original description says "seam in middle of wall right of The Gab Gets Up" but it only makes sense as the seam in the middle of the wall right of Screwloose And Sexless.

FA: Initially Sado Masochistic Items That Hurt & Shonkis with a bit of fiddling, 1995

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780987526427

This selected yet in depth guide, in its third edition in 2016, is a must for first timers or regulars to the "Pines". By Simon Mentz and Glenn Tempest. It features 1200 routes over 23 different areas as well as bouldering, history info on flora and fauna, plus heaps more.

Author(s): Gordon Poultney, Simon Carter

Date: 2013

ISBN: 9780987087461

444 of the best routes on the best stone on earth? Yes Please! Who has time for all those other wondering pitches anyway when Gordon Poultney and Simon Carter have picked out the classics and printed it in a pocket size handy guide with string attachment. You'll take it on the multipitches, you'll take it to read in the toilets, you'll take it everywhere!

Author(s): Chris Baxter & Glenn Tempest

Date: 1994

ISBN: 0646167308

A Guide to selected rockclimbs at Mt Arapiles,the Grampians and Mt Buffalo

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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