Henry Bolte Wall




Almost every hold has it's own name.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Henry Bolte Wall Area

© (willmonks)

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route

From belay chain on "Slinkin Leopard" step left then up through small cave, back right and up.

FA: Andrew Lindblade & Ian Anger, 1991

Start as for "Follow Your Nose" then climb straight up from horizontal on jugs to a crux mantle at top.

FA: Lionel Clay & Kurt Smith, 1986

Very pumpy.

Start: Start near the top left end of the wall.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Dave Fearnley & Ian Anger, 1982

Harder and bolder than the original.

Start: Start 2 metres right of "Follow Your Nose".

FA: Geoff Weigand, 1989

Traverse as for "Follow Your Nose" and keep going, past "The Fortress" to a bolt on "Lord Of The Rings".

Start: Start as for "Follow Your Nose"

FA: James Falla & Paul Hoskins, 1987

Two bolts left of fortress lead into FYN DS

FA: Simon Weill

A few pieces of gear required higher up. Sustained wall leftward past 2 bolts. At jugs, move right and up. (A pumpy variant is to go left instead and finish up Follow Your Nose).

Start: Start 6 metres right of "Follow Your Nose".

FA: Dave Fearnley & Mark Moorhead via start from left. As described Kim Carrigan, 1982

Start up Fortress to 2nd bolt, then right and up trying very hard to avoid going back L into the original (and better) version.

FA: George Fieg (?), 1995

Start as for Slinkin' Leopard, then head left after the crux "drive by" through punchy boulder (trad) then finish up Fortress.

FA: Lee Cossey, 2015

Straightens out Slinkin'.

Start: Start as for Slinkin' but go direct and up to the end of the L-wards traverse

FA: Dave Jones, 1998

Surely one of the best route names in the country.

Start 3m R of 'The Fortress'. A slopey traverse R is protected by a bolt (stick clip). Up past two more bolts before heading L to the crack. Up more easily with trad gear and one more bolt to anchors.

FA: Geoff Weigand, 1984

A righthand finish to Slinkin'.

Start: Start as for Slinkin'.

FFA: Jerry Moffat, 1992

Brilliant route. Take small cams (00 Friend) + some medium cams (.3BD, .5BD, .75BD) for after the 3 bolts on the traverse.

Start: Start 4 metres down from "Slinkin Leopard".

FA: Lincoln Shepherd, 1983

Awesome sustained face climbing linking Lord of the Rings into Zorlac the Destroyer

FA: Lee Cossey, 2015

Remarkably sustained face on thinner and thinner holds. If you fall off the slab you'll be in good company.

Start: Start as for "Wackford Squeers".

FA: Stefan Glowacz

The "crazy linkup" of Lord of the Rings into Slinkin' Leopard.

FA: Nathan Hoette, 2004

Start at the weakness down right of "Wackford Squeers" and go fairly much straight up.

FA: Nick Sutter early 1990s, 2000

The original route on the wall is quite good but rope drag can be a problem.

Start: Start at obviuos weakness right of "Wackford Squeers", as for "Lord Of The Rings Direct".

FA: Glenn Tempest & Kevin Lindorff, 1977

AKA Straight Outta Wackford.

As for Wackford Squeers Direct, then arbitrarily follow the difficult C-shaped sickle to the L in the upper section (rather than the obvious line of least resistance).

FA: Geoff Weigand. Carrigan had climbed the lower section on, 1985

Very hard crux down low after the pocket (which sadly was a chip ?). Use a short draw and/or a good belayer if this is at your limit as you will fall a few times here.

Continue straight up on the R side of the top bulge. There is a very good 3/4 cam placement in a key handhold here so perhaps best to carry it with you and place it at your waist after using it.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1985

Soft for the grade and contrived, but the climbing is good.

Up Henre Bolte through its crux to the break, traverse L for 2m into the top section of Wackford Squeers and over the top bulge as for that.

Superb thin face-climbing. (#2 Wallnut after the first bolt, .75BD in the break after the 3rd bolt + a few more cams in the higher easier section to DBB) Start: Start just right of "Going For The One"

FA: Lincoln Shepherd & Mark Moorhead, 1983

Some bouldery moves. There's a good plunge if you miss the final lunge.

Start: Start just right of "Henry Bolte"

FA: Kim Carrigan, Geoff Weigand & Brian Wright, 1981

A good easy route on a great wall deserves a star. Pitch 2 is really good and eats cams. Great on a warm day.

Start: Down and right of the other routes is a prominent crack leading to a bottomless chimney.

  1. 13m (17) Crack and chimney to terrace.

  2. 29m (16) Easily up on right for 3 metres to the big diagonal ledge/break. Traverse down left to the end of the break and step left onto the wall. Continue up steep, juggy wall right of "Going For The One".

FA: Peter Watling & Andrew Hebdon, 1981

Line of bolts to a lower-off right of "Barbed". Feel like it climbs a bit contrived by where the bolt placements are, but it's a fun little warm up for the main events up the hill. A cam is good for the top if you scare easily

FA: Two Germans., 1996

Up for 2 metres then traverse right to pockets and up brushed wall to ledge. Rap as for "Gurtle Tier".

Start: Start 3 metres right of "Barbed" at a short, steep flake.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Mike Broadbent & Louise Shepherd, 1982

Maybe 20m below Barbed and 10m up from the Clown a doglegged thin crack doesn't reach the ground. Up seam in grey slab until desperately thin moves gain crack. Rap anchor. Gear is rather sketchy.

Start as for School for Scandal but continue up and right to small corner leading into The Clown chimney finish. Rap as for SfS. Pro is a bit fiddly, take small wires and cams.

FA: Lou Shepherd, Wendy Eden & Kane Hendy, 10 Dec 2016

Not great. Well up the gully left of the main buttress, almost to 'Henry Bolte Wall', is a narrow chimney.

  1. 12m (12) Struggle up chimney.

  2. 36m (-) Traverse right onto easy-angled shoulder and on to nice layback crack on right. After this, move past large ledge and up corner to another wide ledge. An alternative is to move left at the start of the pitch and go up unleasant narrow chimney (grade 12).

  3. 30m (7) As for final pitch of 'Beau Geste'

FA: Chris Baxter, Chris Dewhirst, John Moore. Pitch 2 variant : Garry Sudholz, Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth.., 1968

Pretty good climbing and protection. Start just right of second pitch of 'Barbed'. Access via abseil anchor of 'Not Invented Here'. Easily up to the big break. Straight up the short overhanging wall, 1 metre right of a left-leading diagonal line, to a good flake. Up 3 metres to top of flake, step right and up water-washed streak to little bulge and up to easier ground. Continue straight up through bulges at top.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Keith Lockwood, Ray Lassman & Norm Booth, 14 Jan 2012

Might seem a bit contrived to people too short to do the move past the bolt at a reasonable grade. Access via 25 metre rappel from anchor above this climb. Double set cams to #1 Camalot, plus 1 each #2 and #4. Easy up to the ledge-break and up the short overhanging wall 1.5 metres right of 'Serious Callers Only'. Reach straight up the smooth wall past the bolt then right a little and up on killer incuts to left side of the roof of 'Clear Conscience'. Swing right above overhang and go up to rap anchor.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Keith Lockwood, 31 Dec 2011

Start at belay anchor for 'Not Invented Here' Up onto the big break and traverse 3 metres right to FH below short, shallow corner. Short jump or hard moves into corner and up to good stance. Up wall (2 FH) to roof then follow seam up steep wall above roof (FH) then final, easier bulge.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Louise Shepherd & Norm Booth, 4 Feb 2012

"An obvious leftward-curving line starting high up on the buttress, not far right of the all finish of 'Going For The One' ." The Carrigan guide (ad hence the Shepherd one) has it starting 2 metres right of pitch 2 of 'Barbed' but that doesn't fit the description of the start "under a tight, awkward roof". In fact it appears to be the huge roof-flake up high on the right, which is on the left of the final scramble section of 'Beau Geste' etc. Approach from the right under a tight, awkward roof and then follow the diagonal line over some steep walls and overhangs.

FA: Glenn Tempest & Kevin Lindorff, 1977

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