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Nameless Gully

  • Grade context: AU
  • Photos: 1
  • Ascents: 3
  • Aka: Dessert Wall
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Description

The upper walls and outcrops in the gully between The Northern Group and The Far North.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Kachoong Area

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Approach

Approach from the top as for the 'Kachoong' area but continue past the telecom tower along the road to the left. Follow this until nearly at the power pole, and turn onto a track leading left along the cliff top, after about a hundred metres look for cairns leading down hill to the right, follow the track for another hundred metres until shady cliff is visible ahead

Descent notes

Easy walk off

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

History

View historical timeline

First climbed during a VCC visit, then John Muir and Geoff Little created the fantastic climb “Because Its There” in 88 Recent development by Madeleine Woods,Jae Zhong, Chris Ferre, & Muki Woods in 2018 has seen some new climbs at the shady little cliff

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

The blocky staircase-like feature that leads right and up. Shares finish with Kueh Lapis. Walk off descent.

FFA: madeleine Woods, Jae Zhong & muki woods, 12 Jul 2018

The major left leaning line on the left hand end of Nameless Wall. Tricky moves through overhung blocky territory lead to final crack to top out. Walk off descent.

FFA: 12 Jul 2018

FA: Jae Zhong & muki woods, 12 Jul 2018

Does your pussy do the dog? 10m.

Start: Start: 8m up the hill from 'Because It's There' at point where climbing looks possible. Below end of horizontal break that splits the cliff. Starts off blocky ledge and heads left through left slanting crack, then straight up to top

FA: James Falla & Greg Pritchard, 1999

Feisty little overhang must be negotiated via jugs to pleasant face climbing, exit through large obvious groove to the top

Set by muki woods, 12 Jul 2018

FA: muki woods & Jae Zhong, 12 Jul 2018

FFA: muki woods & Jae Zhong, 29 Jul 2018

The face with a wide horizontal. On the other side of the gully from - and facing - 'Stone Age'.

Start at right hand end of wall at the right hand of the two weaknesses up hard overhung start to scalloped wall, trending right, then back left and up to finish through the right hand side of the roof at a bolted anchor.

FFA: John Muir & Geoff Little, 1988

FA: Jon Muir & Geoff Little, 1988

Far right hand end of Nameless Wall is a short right facing corner, up this and crack above, belay at topmost ledge Walk off descent

FFA: 9 Jul 2018

FA: Jae Zhong & Paul Graham, 9 Jul 2018

The next few routes are in a hidden gully running in between the Lou and Evelyn gully and PB gully. They look better in this topo than they do from the base of the climbs.

Anything that does not kill you must make you stranger.

Start: In the gully behind the pinnacle with 'Because It's There' at the right end of a small white wall beneath a large fallen tree.

FA: Jon Bassindale & Greg Pritchard, 1999

Up cracks then through 'interesting' headwall.

Start: Start: On the next tall buttress down the gully is a wall with an obvious crack on the right.

FA: Jon Bassindale & Greg Pritchard, 1999

Up a shallow corner, curving left at top then up.

Start: On the next buttress down from 'The Dwarves of Towyn', in the middle of the south face, is an obvious shallow corner.

FA: James Falla & Greg Pritchard, 1999

Around right of The Dwarves of Towyn it is possible to scramble around into PB Gully and come out on the terrace next to Black Legend (which is on a small wall on a little terrace, directly opposite PB). The following two climbs are in the notch on a nice little wall which faces east.

Harder than it looks. Needed two leaders to push this mighty 15m line to the top!

Start: Start to left of wall, 1m right of arete.

FA: Greg Pritchard & James Falla, 1999

No joke. (2 pitches for a 15m route is a bit of a joke though?!)

Start: Start on the left side of this wall.

FA: James Falla & Greg Pritchard, 1999

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Activity

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