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Heath Row Buttress Guide

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 7

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Wendy Eden Kieran Loughran Will Monks Douglas Hockly Campbell Gome Oliver McDonald

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Table of contents

1. Heath Row Buttress 6 routes in Area

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

All Trad climbing

summary

A quiet area with a few routes

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Kachoong Area

access issues

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

inherited from Arapiles

approach

Either walk up hill from Shiralee Wall or downhill from Evelyn and Lou area.

ethic

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

inherited from Arapiles
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 22% Off Manchester

On left side of arete of Lacuna is an undercut start to easy flake, then slabby wall and short corner to summit opposite Hurts Wall.

FA: Sarah Natali, Greg Prit, Greg Pritchard & Wendy Eden, 27 May 2017

10 Trad 40m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 Lacuna

The left arete of the 'Heath Row' buttress. Start as for 'Trotskyist Tendency' and after the initial black bulge, continue up the arete.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 26 May 2012

15 Trad 40m
3 Trotskyist Tendency

Climbs the centre of the face left of 'Maiden Voyeur' despite continually heading for the left wing. Good climbing throughout but the regular need to step back right to avoid the left arete detracts a bit. Take cams up to 3.5 (blue Camalot). Belay as for Heath Row or on a small stance a few metres higher below the left-hand diagonal line. Move up left to the bulge at the start of the face and pull over onto the black face. Continue, keeping right of the arête. At each bolt, step right below it and climb straight past. Belay on a ledge about 5 metres above the third bolt. Scramble, roped up about another 10 metres to another good ledge that leads off into the gully below Hurts.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Steve Greig, 12 May 2012

19 Mixed trad 35m, 3
4 Maiden Voyeur

No prizes for guessing who put this up. Following the left-most of the ddiagonal lines this is quite a good climb. Used to be hard to locate because the guidebooks mangled the writeups of this and 'Mammary Lane'.

Start: Start as for 'Heath Row' Go up into the left crack and take the wide layback flake (big cam). Finish up nice thin crack.

FA: Michael Stone, Chris Baxter & Dave Gairns, 1979

15 Trad 42m
5 Mammary Lane

This and 'Maiden Voyeur' were described in the wrong order in the guidebooks so it was hard to work out where things went. The FA date in the Shepherd guide was also incorrect. The majority of this climb is very easy but the upper wall is great.

Start: Start as for 'Heath Row'.

FA: Chris Baxter, Dave Gairns & Mike Stone, 1979

15 Trad 42m
6 Heath Row

Looks quite pleasant despite the odd small shrub. Was upgraded to 15 in Carrigan guide; someone must have strayed onto the then unclimbed Maiden Voyeur!

Start: There is a small square chipped in the rock at the base of the route.

FA: Ann & Roland Pauligk, 1973

8 Trad 48m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
8 Heath Row Trad 48m
10 22% Off Manchester Trad 40m
15 Lacuna Trad 40m
Maiden Voyeur Trad 42m
Mammary Lane Trad 42m
19 Trotskyist Tendency Mixed trad 35m, 3
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