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Evelyn and Lou Area

Seasonality

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Description

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Kachoong Area

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Approach

Descend as for Kachoong but where the path heads right underneath Hurts Wall, head out and left to some large callitris. Scramble down the front and you will be at the top of the wall, head left to get to the base. You could also walk uphill from Shiralee Wall.

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Up the crack then arete till angle eases. Follow sharp arete to spectacular summit.

Start: Start at a crack on the east face of the pinnacle.

FA: Greg Pritchard & James Falla, 1999

Follow arete all the way to top.

Start: Slightly uphill of BNP, 5 metres left (description says right but that makes no sense) of the start of 'Generation Gap', at the left arete.

FA: Greg Pritchard & James Falla, 1999

Up the middle of the wall left of Generation Gap, finishing up left arete. Some friable rock low down.

FA: Jess Hartridge & Wendy Eden, 5 Apr 2016

Pleasant easy climb up a great line. Left facing stepped corner left of the bulging wall with Lou and Evelyn.

FA: Chris Baxter, Dave Gairns & Michael Stone, 1979

Start up 'Generation Gap' then step onto right wall above roof at 8m and up.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Ray Lassman, 22 Sep 2012

Vigorous crack through a ceiling.

Start: Start as for 'Generation Gap'.

FA: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter & Michael Stone, 1979

Follow the black trench up and out through the offwidth roof.

Rap station installed.

FFA: Chris Ferre, muki woods, Paul Graham & Jae Zhong, 9 Jul 2018

Steep but if you have trouble on this leave the rest of the routes on this wall alone.

Start: Start at wide crack right of James.

FA: Chris Baxter, Dave Gairns & Geoff Gledhill, 1985

Over roof just right of 'Pumparama' and finish up short crack.

Start: Start just right of 'Pumparama'.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Louise Shepherd, 1981

Face between 'Broom Hilda' and Evelyn, through bulge.

FA: Geoff Little, Jon Muir & Maureen Gallagher, 1988

A short route with shallow pockets. Three bolts to join Evelyn at about 2/3 height.

Thin and energetic

Start: Start at thin crack 4 metres right of 'Broom Hilda'.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Louise Shepherd, 1981

Up the crack right of Evelyn then wall past bolt to where crack reopens.

FA: Wendy Eden, Douglas Hockly, Jess McMahon & Laurie., 6 May 2016

It'll be too late once you're at grips with this.

FA: Jon Muir & Geoff Little, 1988

Reputedly a tough lead.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Louise Shepherd, 1981

After the initial crack on Lou, continue up just right of mossy streak to where the crack reopens. Gear is probably better than the original but still a little exciting. Look out for a 3 rock to the left of where you climb (it's in the moss) after the crux.

FA: Wendy Eden & Douglas Hockly, 9 Apr 2016

Right of Lou past 2 bolts and some fiddly cams and small wires

FA: Wendy Eden, Lou Shepherd, Gareth Llewellyn & Douglas Hockly, 8 Apr 2016

Bouldery seam between Greg Will be Amused and Lou's not 19.

FA: Hoskins & Smith. late., 1995

Short crack. Very short.

Start: Start at the right hand end of the wall that contains Lou.

FA: Smith, Hoskins & late., 1995

Start at crack under bolt, move up weakness to second bolt and through roof to fixed anchor.

FFA: muki woods & Chris Ferre, 9 Jul 2018

Start in small left facing corner at right-hand end of wall. Follow crack to top.

FFA: Jae Zhong & Paul Graham, 9 Jul 2018

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