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Evelyn and Lou Area Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Wendy Eden Chris Ferre Douglas Hockly Dave Scarlett Campbell Gome russ Dale Rankin Mieka Webb

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Table of contents

1. Evelyn and Lou Area 21 routes in Area

Summary:
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Seasonality

All Trad climbing

description

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Kachoong Area

access issues

Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit. https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/-/media/project/pv/main/parks/documents/management-plans/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park---aboriginal-cultural-heritage-protections---october-2020.pdf

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park - no dogs. No fires allowed Oct-Apr (inclusive).

inherited from Arapiles

approach

Descend as for Kachoong but where the path heads right underneath Hurts Wall, head out and left to some large callitris. Scramble down the front and you will be at the top of the wall, head left to get to the base. You could also walk uphill from Shiralee Wall.

ethic

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

inherited from Arapiles
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Better Not Peak

Up the crack then arete till angle eases. Follow sharp arete to spectacular summit.

Start: Start at a crack on the east face of the pinnacle.

FA: Greg Pritchard & James Falla, 1999

8 Trad 15m
2 Noodles Romanoff

Follow arete all the way to top.

Start: Slightly uphill of BNP, 5 metres left (description says right but that makes no sense) of the start of 'Generation Gap', at the left arete.

FA: Greg Pritchard & James Falla, 1999

5 Trad 45m
3 It's Sausage

Up the middle of the wall left of Generation Gap, finishing up left arete. Some friable rock low down.

FA: Jess Hartridge & Wendy Eden, 5 Apr 2016

13 Trad 40m
4 Generation Gap

Pleasant easy climb up a great line. Left facing stepped corner left of the bulging wall with Lou and Evelyn.

FA: Chris Baxter, Dave Gairns & Michael Stone, 1979

5 Trad 42m
5 Hamish

Start up 'Generation Gap' then step onto right wall above roof at 8m and up.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Ray Lassman, 2012

14 Trad 42m
6 James

Vigorous crack through a ceiling.

Start: Start as for 'Generation Gap'.

FA: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter & Michael Stone, 1979

20 Trad 12m
7 The Foxhole Escape

Follow the black trench up and out through the offwidth roof.

Rap station installed.

FFA: Chris Ferre, muki woods, Paul Graham & Jae Zhong, 9 Jul 2018

18 Trad 15m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
8 Pumparama

Steep but if you have trouble on this leave the rest of the routes on this wall alone.

Start: Start at wide crack right of James.

FA: Chris Baxter, Dave Gairns & Geoff Gledhill, 1985

19 Trad 15m
9 Broom Hilda

Over roof just right of 'Pumparama' and finish up short crack.

Start: Start just right of 'Pumparama'.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Louise Shepherd, 1981

21 Trad 12m
10 Man on the Land

Face between 'Broom Hilda' and Evelyn, through bulge.

FA: Geoff Little, Jon Muir & Maureen Gallagher, 1988

24 Trad 12m
11 Garth Douglas Pringle Hockly

A short route with shallow pockets. Three bolts to join Evelyn at about 2/3 height.

24 Mixed trad 15m, 3
12 Evelyn

Thin and energetic

Start: Start at thin crack 4 metres right of 'Broom Hilda'.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Louise Shepherd, 1981

21 Trad 12m
13 A profound debate on an important topic of great significance

Up the crack right of Evelyn then wall past bolt to where crack reopens.

FA: Wendy Eden, Douglas Hockly, Jess McMahon & Laurie., 6 May 2016

22 Trad 12m
14 Order Your Christmas Poultry Now

It'll be too late once you're at grips with this.

FA: Jon Muir & Geoff Little, 1988

23 Trad 12m
15 Lou

Reputedly a tough lead.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Louise Shepherd, 1981

19 Trad 10m
16 Lou Direct

After the initial crack on Lou, continue up just right of mossy streak to where the crack reopens. Gear is probably better than the original but still a little exciting. Look out for a 3 rock to the left of where you climb (it's in the moss) after the crux.

FA: Wendy Eden & Douglas Hockly, 9 Apr 2016

22 Trad 12m
17 Greg will be Amused

Right of Lou past 2 bolts and some fiddly cams and small wires

FA: Wendy Eden, Lou Shepherd, Gareth Llewellyn & Douglas Hockly, 8 Apr 2016

22 Mixed trad 10m, 2
18 Greg Will be Pleased

Bouldery seam between Greg Will be Amused and Lou's not 19.

FA: Hoskins & Smith. late., 1995

20 Trad 9m
19 Lou's Not 19 (Anymore)

Short crack. Very short.

Start: Start at the right hand end of the wall that contains Lou.

FA: Smith, Hoskins & late., 1995

17 Trad 4m
20 Glue-ten Free

Start at crack under bolt, move up weakness to second bolt and through roof to fixed anchor.

FFA: muki woods & Chris Ferre, 9 Jul 2018

24 Mixed trad 20m, 2
21 Traces Of Nuts

Start in small left facing corner at right-hand end of wall. Follow crack to top.

FFA: Jae Zhong & Paul Graham, 9 Jul 2018

14 Trad 19m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
5 Generation Gap Trad 42m
Noodles Romanoff Trad 45m
8 Better Not Peak Trad 15m
13 It's Sausage Trad 40m
14 Hamish Trad 42m
Traces Of Nuts Trad 19m
17 Lou's Not 19 (Anymore) Trad 4m
18 The Foxhole Escape Trad 15m
19 Lou Trad 10m
Pumparama Trad 15m
20 Greg Will be Pleased Trad 9m
James Trad 12m
21 Broom Hilda Trad 12m
Evelyn Trad 12m
22 A profound debate on an important topic of great significance Trad 12m
Greg will be Amused Mixed trad 10m, 2
Lou Direct Trad 12m
23 Order Your Christmas Poultry Now Trad 12m
24 Garth Douglas Pringle Hockly Mixed trad 15m, 3
Glue-ten Free Mixed trad 20m, 2
Man on the Land Trad 12m
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