A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
Warning
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
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Usage policy
Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Wendy Eden Kieran Loughran Chris Ferre Douglas Hockly Dave Scarlett Campbell Gome Brendan Heywood russ Dale Rankin Mieka Webb
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Table of contents
- 1. Evelyn and Lou Area 21 in Area
- 2. Index by grade
1. Evelyn and Lou Area 21 routes in Area
- Summary:
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All Trad climbing
Stick to the paths.
Don't disturb the wildlife.
Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.
Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).
description
Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Kachoong Area
access issues
Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit. https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/-/media/project/pv/main/parks/documents/management-plans/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park---aboriginal-cultural-heritage-protections---october-2020.pdf
Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.
State Park - no dogs. No fires allowed Oct-Apr (inclusive).
approach
Descend as for Kachoong but where the path heads right underneath Hurts Wall, head out and left to some large callitris. Scramble down the front and you will be at the top of the wall, head left to get to the base. You could also walk uphill from Shiralee Wall.
ethic
Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.
Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.
Do not chip the rock.
Look after the park.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Better Not Peak
Up the crack then arete till angle eases. Follow sharp arete to spectacular summit. Start: Start at a crack on the east face of the pinnacle. FA: Greg Pritchard & James Falla, 1999 | 8 | 15m | |||||
2 |
Noodles Romanoff
Follow arete all the way to top. Start: Slightly uphill of BNP, 5 metres left (description says right but that makes no sense) of the start of 'Generation Gap', at the left arete. FA: Greg Pritchard & James Falla, 1999 | 5 | 45m | |||||
3 |
It's Sausage
Up the middle of the wall left of Generation Gap, finishing up left arete. Some friable rock low down. FA: Jess Hartridge & Wendy Eden, 5 Apr 2016 | 13 | 40m | |||||
4 |
★ Generation Gap
Pleasant easy climb up a great line. Left facing stepped corner left of the bulging wall with Lou and Evelyn. FA: Chris Baxter, Dave Gairns & Michael Stone, 1979 | 5 | 42m | |||||
5 |
Hamish
Start up 'Generation Gap' then step onto right wall above roof at 8m and up. FA: Keith Lockwood & Ray Lassman, 2012 | 14 | 42m | |||||
6 |
★ James
Vigorous crack through a ceiling. Start: Start as for 'Generation Gap'. FA: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter & Michael Stone, 1979 | 20 | 12m | |||||
7 |
★ The Foxhole Escape
Follow the black trench up and out through the offwidth roof. Rap station installed. FFA: Chris Ferre, muki woods, Paul Graham & Jae Zhong, 9 Jul 2018 | 18 | 15m | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
8 |
Pumparama
Steep but if you have trouble on this leave the rest of the routes on this wall alone. Start: Start at wide crack right of James. FA: Chris Baxter, Dave Gairns & Geoff Gledhill, 1985 | 19 | 15m | |||||
9 |
Broom Hilda
Over roof just right of 'Pumparama' and finish up short crack. Start: Start just right of 'Pumparama'. FA: Kim Carrigan & Louise Shepherd, 1981 | 21 | 12m | |||||
10 |
★ Man on the Land
Face between 'Broom Hilda' and Evelyn, through bulge. FA: Geoff Little, Jon Muir & Maureen Gallagher, 1988 | 24 | 12m | |||||
11 |
★ Garth Douglas Pringle Hockly
A short route with shallow pockets. Three bolts to join Evelyn at about 2/3 height. | 24 | 15m, 3 | |||||
12 |
★ Evelyn
Thin and energetic Start: Start at thin crack 4 metres right of 'Broom Hilda'. FA: Kim Carrigan & Louise Shepherd, 1981 | 21 | 12m | |||||
13 |
★ A profound debate on an important topic of great significance
Up the crack right of Evelyn then wall past bolt to where crack reopens. FA: Wendy Eden, Douglas Hockly, Jess McMahon & Laurie., 6 May 2016 | 22 | 12m | |||||
14 |
★ Order Your Christmas Poultry Now
It'll be too late once you're at grips with this. FA: Jon Muir & Geoff Little, 1988 | 23 | 12m | |||||
15 |
Lou
Reputedly a tough lead. FA: Kim Carrigan & Louise Shepherd, 1981 | 19 | 10m | |||||
16 |
★ Lou Direct
After the initial crack on Lou, continue up just right of mossy streak to where the crack reopens. Gear is probably better than the original but still a little exciting. Look out for a 3 rock to the left of where you climb (it's in the moss) after the crux. FA: Wendy Eden & Douglas Hockly, 9 Apr 2016 | 22 | 12m | |||||
17 |
Greg will be Amused
Right of Lou past 2 bolts and some fiddly cams and small wires FA: Wendy Eden, Lou Shepherd, Gareth Llewellyn & Douglas Hockly, 8 Apr 2016 | 22 | 10m, 2 | |||||
18 |
Greg Will be Pleased
Bouldery seam between Greg Will be Amused and Lou's not 19. FA: Hoskins & Smith. late., 1995 | 20 | 9m | |||||
19 |
Lou's Not 19 (Anymore)
Short crack. Very short. Start: Start at the right hand end of the wall that contains Lou. FA: Smith, Hoskins & late., 1995 | 17 | 4m | |||||
20 |
★★ Glue-ten Free
Start at crack under bolt, move up weakness to second bolt and through roof to fixed anchor. FFA: muki woods & Chris Ferre, 9 Jul 2018 | 24 | 20m, 2 | |||||
21 |
Traces Of Nuts
Start in small left facing corner at right-hand end of wall. Follow crack to top. FFA: Jae Zhong & Paul Graham, 9 Jul 2018 | 14 | 19m |
2. Index by grade
Grade | Stars | Name | Style | Pop | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
5 | ★ | Generation Gap | 42m | ||
Noodles Romanoff | 45m | ||||
8 | Better Not Peak | 15m | |||
13 | It's Sausage | 40m | |||
14 | Hamish | 42m | |||
Traces Of Nuts | 19m | ||||
17 | Lou's Not 19 (Anymore) | 4m | |||
18 | ★ | The Foxhole Escape | 15m | ||
19 | Lou | 10m | |||
Pumparama | 15m | ||||
20 | Greg Will be Pleased | 9m | |||
★ | James | 12m | |||
21 | Broom Hilda | 12m | |||
★ | Evelyn | 12m | |||
22 | ★ | A profound debate on an important topic of great significance | 12m | ||
Greg will be Amused | 10m, 2 | ||||
★ | Lou Direct | 12m | |||
23 | ★ | Order Your Christmas Poultry Now | 12m | ||
24 | ★ | Garth Douglas Pringle Hockly | 15m, 3 | ||
★★ | Glue-ten Free | 20m, 2 | |||
★ | Man on the Land | 12m |