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Mermaid Avenue

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 24
16

Seasonality

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Description

Wall of easy routes up the hill from Evelyn & Lou and opposite Nameless Gully

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Approach

As for Nameless Gully and Evelyn & Lou area

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Up streak and continue straight on.

Start: About 1m left of 'The First Kiddy Climb' and a bit lower is a orange streak in the middle of black.

Sorry kids, but these 2 routes are the complete pox left of the unclimbed grotty corner at the left end of the wall of Mermaid Ave

FA: Jack Synnot, Mark Synnot, Zoe Synnot & Pete Canning, 2005

Not destined for greatness, but when you are only 8 and 10 years old putting up a route is exciting.

Start: 1m left of the chimney/corner (unclimbed)

FA: Zoe Synnot, Mark Synnot, Jack Synnot & Pete Canning, 2005

Not waving, drowning.

Start: Start at the left hand edge of the wall, below a smooth black(ish) slab, 2m right of chimney/corner.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Meg Sleeman, 1999

They actually called it "About a Hedge-Whore beggar woman pretending to be sick with Saint Fiacre's Disease, and a long thick gut made by trickery came out of her bum", and then said "Don't blame me, blame Ambroise Pare".

Start: Start 5m left of chimney, right of low cave and actually looks quite nice.

FA: Greg Pritchard & James Falla, 1999

Originally "About a Fat Wench from Normandy, who Pretended to Have a 'Snake' in Her Belly". Hard to believe he was the father of modern surgery, isn't it?

Start: Start: On top of large boulder leaning against wall 2m left of 'Mermaid Avenue' and also looks ok.

FA: Greg Pritchard & James Falla, 1999

Up chimney for three metres and then swing left onto arete. Follow this to top.

Start: Start: At the base of 'Mermaid Avenue'.

FA: Jon Bassindale & Greg Pritchard, 1999

An old fashioned line, or is that lane, as in bus? Good.

Start: Between Lou and 'Stone Age' there is an obvious large chimney in the middle of a sizeable wall. This line is 'Mermaid Avenue'.

FA: Greg Pritchard & Paul Hoskins, 1999

Start: Start as for 'Mermaid Avenue' then up right arete.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Meg Sleeman, 1999

Swing desperately over rattly lip of cave; continue in line more pleasantly.

Start: Seam between 'Mermaid Avenue' and 'Narwhal Avenue'. It's about 2m right of 'The Police Gospel Quartet' arete.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Peter Canning, 2005

Fun.

Start: Start: Right of 'Mermaid Avenue' and before the arete of 'Manatee Fair' there is a crack line up the wall.

FA: Greg Pritchard & Paul Hoskins, 1999

The best of the lot. Originally graded 10.

Start: Start 5m right of 'Mermaid Avenue' just left of arete.

FA: Greg Pritchard & James Falla, 1999

Not very long and pretty unpalatable.

Start: Start in the chimney that 'Stone Age' starts in.

FA: James Falla & Greg Pritchard, 1999

Much nicer than it looks.

Start: The buttress right of 'Manatee Fair' has a thin seam up a slab capped by a roof.

FA: Mike Stone & Chris Baxter, 1985

Delightful doddle.

Start: Start just right of 'Stone Age' up to right leaning flake

FA: Chris Baxter & Mike Stone, 1985

You know what to do.

Start: Start: 2m right of 'Poles Apart' at another line of cracks.

FA: Greg Pritchard & Paul Hoskins, 1999

Start: Start: 2m right of 'Melville's Moby Dick Ooh Er'.

FA: Greg Pritchard & James Falla, 1999

This crag is unlocated

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Activity

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