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description

Absolutely thrilling, difficult for the grade if you don't like having your heels above your head, and generally more difficult to second than to lead.

Start at the belay at the top of the pillar L of the Kachoong wall. This can be approached by "A Taste of Honey Direct Start", "Echo System" or the corner scramble between it and the Kachoong wall.

Up surprisingly easy overhanging crack to a very steep section beneath a roof with a fairly blank wall on the right. Traverse R across this wall using the line of jugs just below the roof with disappointingly few footholds to a ledge at the end and safety.

The route continues up on lovely rock at about grade 10 to the top.

The original aid line was the low crack (now known as "A Taste of Honey Variant") and the original free ascent (Henry Barber) used the roof crack above at the same grade but the best climbing is as described.

© (kieranl)

Route history

First free ascent: Hot Henry Barber
15 Apr 1968First ascent: Chris Dewhirst & Chris Baxter

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: -36.75030, 141.83401

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Grade citation

21 Assigned grade
21 RockGUIDE: Victoria
21 A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite
21 Arapiles, Selected Climbs
24 [23 - 24] ++ grAId

ethic

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

inherited from Arapiles

Seasonality

J
F
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A
M
J
J
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S
O
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D

Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 87 from 90 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 28
Flash 3
Red point 9
Tick 22
Pink point 1
Attempt 35
Target 10

Comment keywords

hands rest roof feet interesting sharp traverse technical crack short jugs easy scary terrifying exposed fall beautiful enjoyable sweet satisfying fun wicked stoked cool nice great super classic lovely good rad amazing awesome crux crank hard pumped tough powerful stuffed solid desperate

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