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description

Up on jugs to rest at roof, place bomber cams and then launch out into glory across the roof into the crux at the lip. Easy up headwall to welcome belay

Start: Start at the ledge below the big roof with the chalked flakes.

© (Olbert)

Route history

Apr 1977First ascent: Glenn Tempest & Kevin Lindorff

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: -36.75019, 141.83492

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Grade citation

21 Assigned grade
21 OZ Rock
21 Arapiles, Selected Climbs
21 RockGUIDE: Victoria
21 *** ACA Route Register
21 A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite
21 [21 - 21] grAId

ethic

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

inherited from Arapiles

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 89 from 309 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 100
Flash 47
Red point 43
Tick 66
Pink point 10
Top rope 4
Attempt 86
Target 27

Comment keywords

lip fiddly bail traverse face feet epic flake crazy roof jugs easy short crack mantle bad smooth rest interesting slippery crap runout scary terrifying intimidating fall exposed tired crux pumped hard desperate difficult solid great nice cool exciting good super ripper perfect brilliant beautiful fantastic fun rad stoked incredible enjoyable sweet amazing awesome classic superb

Activity

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