Frenzy Pinnacle




The fourth pinnacle from L.

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route

Fingery up to BR, R across SO, and up past 2nd BR.

Start: Start up L of SO.

FA: Ross Meffin & Kate Thomas, 1992

BR, then bold to overhang and 2nd BR. Go 4m up L then straight up. The direct finish goes slightly R from 2nd BR to 3rd BR.

Start: Start in gully L of F.

FA: Lincoln Shepherd, Evelyn Lees (Direct Finish by Matthew Brooks & Julian Oldmeadow), 1992

Heavy duty jams get you started on the flake system on the arete, then move L to guano and up to flake.

Start: Start at the L arete of the 4th pinnacle.

FA: John Chapman & Kevin Lindorff, 1975

Small flake, face, small overlap then tend R. This route looks almost entirely unprotected.

Start: Start at the yellow wall which is above and R of 'Frenzy'.

FA: Jim Thomas & Mark Moorhead, 1982

The low red wall capped by a roof is taken via bouldery face moves then a crack. Finish up groove.

Start: Start just R of F.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Murray Taylor (aid), 1968

FFA: Andrew Thomson, 1976

Start: The start is not described...

  1. 20m (25) Take the RH crack through bulge, then move L after roof and up flake.

  2. 20m (-) Simple crack in the middle of the face.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Mark Moorhead (alt), 1979

The incipient flake - take plenty of #1 RPs.

Start: Start 5m R of WT.

FA: Chris Shepherd & Ant Prehn, 1986

Start in corner left of 2nd pitch of Viagra. Up crack for 5m, traverse right and up to bolt. up past bolt with 2nd bolt on way to top.

A link-up of the first part of 'Bandwagon' into the finish of 'Passionate Tips'.

Start: Start as for B.

FA: Flaccid Mentz & Floppy Tempest, 1998

The squeeze chimney. 'Classic'.

Start: Start R of T.

FA: Jerry Grandage & Bernie Lyons, 1965

The crack then slender buttress.

Start: Start just R of DM.

FA: Chris Baxter, Dave Gairns, Francine Gilfedder & Mike Stone, 1978

Up to the bolt then go R to arete and back L to puzzling moves up the seam. You can also boulder past the bolt at very contrived 24 but it's a better route at 21.

Start: Start on wall R of DM.

FA: Lincoln Shepherd & Natalie Green, 1982


Start: Start at the buttress R of DM.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Chris Baxter & Ed Neve, 1973

The arete.

Start: Start at the second last (and highest) pinnacle near the top of 'Organ Pipes Gully'.

FA: Dennis Kemp & Dave Mudie, 1987

This cliff is unlocated

If you know where this cliff is then please take a minute to locate it for the climbing community. contact us if you have any issues.


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