Organ Pipes Gully Right Side




Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles,The Organ Pipes Area

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).


Some content has been provided under license from: © Cameron Roy (CC BY-SA 3.0 AU)


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Grade Route

Start at the base of the "second hole" near the top of the 'Organ Pipes Gully'. Climb the front of the scrappy grey buttress.

FA: Mike & Jenny Ashton, 1987

A good effort for the era. Start just above the "first hole" as you walk up 'Organ Pipes Gully'. The initialled black, flared offwidth/chimney - you'll be needing big cams.

FA: Roger Caffin, Sue Caffin & Jan Neville, 1966

The physical hand crack, taking care with the blocks at the start. Start 2m R of Cerberus.

FA: Phillip Stranger & Chris Dewhirst, 1967

Looks like 36! Originally led on preplaced gear, repeated placing the gear by Gareth Llewellin - a pretty bold lead. Start a short way uphill from the back of the D Minor pinnacle, and just downhill from the boulder choke. Glassy bulging seam. Rack: Mostly #1 RPs.

FA: Stuart Wyithe, 1995

Not well protected, a serious lead. Up Private Detective to seam (about 4m), diagonally left across face and up just right of arete.

FA: Douglas Hockly & Esther Renita Thompson, 2002

Start 1m R of Private Detective. Go diagonally R, across Stentor pitch 3, and up arete. The Direct Start (18) starts 3m R of Stentor's 3rd pitch and goes straight up to the arete. Note the March 2004 route dubbed "Skin Flute" (14m 18) by Shaun Kratzer and Joshua Janes is almost certainly a repeat of this Direct Start.

FA: Jon Muir, Brigitte Muir (DS done by Louise Shepherd & Enga Lokey), 1994

One concerned father hired a private detective when his daughter started seeing Chris! Not that well protected. Start R around the arête from C, 3m L of Stentor's 3rd pitch.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Lincoln Shepherd & Chris Shepherd, 1981

Start on top of the Piccolo pipe and climb the middle of the wall on the D Major pipe. The start is a little bold but the rest of the route protects well. Finish at rap bolts.

Fairly ordinary. Start on the back of the Piccolo Pipe, about 5m L of Lemmington.

FA: Andrew Thomson & Dave Mudie, 1970

Start just L of Lemmington. The shallow groove, becoming very contrived to stay out of Lemmington.

FA: Paul Hoskins & Greg Pritchard, 1995

Has steadily increased it's reputation over the years, and is now considered by some to be one of the best 19s at Arapiles. Start in the chasm between the D Minor Pinnacle and the Piccolo Pinnacle, on the Piccolo side. Approach by going L around the back of D Minor Pinnacle. The logs and chain in the gully are for erosion control; they are not designed or to be used as belay anchors.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Matt Taylor, 1976

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