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The Red Wall

9
AU

Seasonality

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Description

The orange upper wall behind Didgeridoo.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles,The Organ Pipes Area

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit.

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park - no dogs. No fires allowed Oct-Apr (inclusive).

Approach

Climb any of the routes from Keyboard to Horn Piece or solo up the gully between Conifer Crack and Didgeridoo Pipe.

Descent notes

Rap station at top of Tannin (30m abseil).

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Bridge up gully to clip bolt. Up blunt arete past another bolt to join Wyrd, up corner and flake. L at bolt to jugs, up thinly past another (bolt, not jug) to rings.

Start: Just L of Wyrd.

FA: Douglas Hockly & Ingvar Lidman, 2002

Funky climbing and route-finding. The moves up to the roof are committing.

Start: On the left side of the grey pedestal.

FA: Mike Law & Matt Taylor, 1976

Straightens out Wyrd with some committing climbing.

FA: Tony Marian, Hugh Foxcroft (1 aid). Freed: Kim Carrigan & Louise Shepherd Jan 1979., 1978

Nice video (in two parts) can be found here:- http://www.chockstone.org/GalleryArapsVideo.htm

FA: Andrew Thomson & Dave Mudie, 1976

Makes a good change.

FA: Jon Muir, Tony Dignan & Geoff Little., 1985

This lovely wall was a very bold first ascent. Small wires (take extra #3 RPs) now give reasonable protection but sport climbers wouldn't want to be getting on this for their first trad 21. Start just right of Tannin. While sketching out with your modern gear, spare a thought for Ann Pauligk's 1977 ascent which was the first Aussie female ascent at this grade.

FA: Andrew Thomson & Greg Child, 1976

Great moves on thin face cruxy past second bolt, finish straight up or traverse to finish wraith or tannin

Start: Just right of Wraith.

FA: Ant Prehn & Jon Muir.., 1986

This good crack system is the only surviving piece of a long-forgotten girdle traverse of the 'Organ Pipes'. Perhaps it would have had more credibility if it had started with a tyrolean from the top of the 'D Minor' Pinnacle.

The bolts on this need sorting out. They are all old carrots, many unneccessary and in the wrong places for free climbing.

Start: At a little corner below and right of 'The Wraith'.

FA: Chris Baxter, Tim Hancock.. Freed Chris Baxter, Kevin Lindorff & Mike Stone. May 1976., 1970

This cliff is unlocated

If you know where this cliff is then please take a minute to locate it for the climbing community. contact us if you have any issues.

Activity

Check out what is happening in The Red Wall.

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