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1 10 25m
2 14 10m

description

The major crackline running up the middle of D Minor pinnacle.

This climb has excellent protection but has a sad history of death and serious injury from people taking long falls off the top overhang onto the easy-angled middle section of the climb. Please take care to place multi-directional runners on the top overhangs so that lower runners are not pulled out by rope tension during a fall.

Can be done in a single pitch taking care with rope management.

  1. (25m, 10) Follow the crack on fine holds until jugs lead up a steepening. Easy angled ground leads to a great belay spot under the overhangs.

  2. (10m, 14) Follow the crack through the overhangs.

Route history

27 Jan 1964First ascent: Ian Speedie, Mike Stone & Bruce Hocking

Ian Speedie, Mike Stone, Bruce Hocking climbed the route but the leader finished around left where Quaver now goes & the seconds top-roped the overhangs. Jim Newlands made what should be considered the first complete ascent.

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: -36.76124, 141.84518

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Grade citation

10,14 Assigned grade
14 OZ Rock
14 Arapiles, Selected Climbs
14 *** ACA Route Register
14 RockGUIDE: Victoria
15 A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite
15 [15 - 16] ++ grAId

ethic

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

inherited from Arapiles

Seasonality

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Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 71 from 729 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 397
Flash 14
Red point 71
Solo 11
Tick 292
Pink point 3
Top rope 5
Attempt 17
Target 7

Comment keywords

tired strenuous hard crux challenging overhung tough solid sustained bail crack bad feet cruisy steep dodgy rest interesting technical jugs epic short face roof fingers easy hands classic nice pleasant super sweet exciting fun stoked cool awesome lovely classy superb satisfying amazing beautiful enjoyable good rad wicked fantastic great brilliant committing ground fall dangerous horrendous fall tricky intimidating exposed scary

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