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Ethereal Buttress

9

Seasonality

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Description

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Pharos Gully Area

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Inspired route naming.

Start 10m up L from 'Today'.

Right past PR then crack.

FA: Mark Moorhead & Roland Foster, 1983

Crack and pod.

Start: Start just L of the L arete of the main face, just behind a pine.

FA: Kevin & Sue Otten, 1979

Start 5m L of "Running on Empty".

L past flake to BR (replaced 2014), crux to jugs, then traverse L and up face, runout towards the top. Can also finish R instead of L, which looks great.

FA: Lincoln & Chris Shepherd, 1981

Stem scoop, move R to join L trending line.

Start: Start under the steep scoop.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Eddy Ozols, 1978

Gets rave reviews.

Start 2m R of RoE.

Rooflet into seam, L at ledge then back R to arete.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Tony Marian & Andrew Martin, 1979

Up 'Pibroch' for 4m then the groove on the L.

Start: As for 'Pibroch'.

FA: Keith Egerton, Stephen Burke, Allan Hope & Jane Wilkinson, 1984

Shallow corner, step R past conifer, then trend R up wall or go straight up.

Start: Start 2m R of E.

FA: Jeremy Boreham & Rod Young, 1976

Committing hand-traverse.

Start in gully around right of 'Pibroch'.

Hand-traverse left around an arete to bottomless crack and climb this.

FA: Rod Young & Phillip McMillan, 1979

Start 2 metres right of 'Cyclops' on left side of black cave and go up wall on spaced jugs.

FA: Mike Law (solo), 1981

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