Pilot Error Area




The terrace above Kryptonite Krack.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Pilot Error Area

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit.

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park - no dogs. No fires allowed Oct-Apr (inclusive).


Go up the gully R of Kryptonite Krack, then L onto the terrace.

Descent notes

Down the short chimney at the back.

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route

More than popular One move wonder. Start: Start at far left hand end of ledge.

Pilot Error is graded as 20 in the Mentz & Tempest Arapiles Guide Book.

FA: Ian Anger, 1980

Crack over roof of cave between Pilot Error and Tarzan, then chimney.

FA: Nick Reeves, Hugh Foxcroft, Peter Martin, Ed Neve & Rod Young, 1979

Was 12 in previous guides! Given that the start move is outrageously hard for 13 that might have been from the time when 12 was the hardest route at the crag. Easily done in one pitch with extenders.

Start: Start at next break through overhang R of C-D-S.

  1. 15m (13) The corner and easily up ramp.

  2. 18m (13) Traverse left between overhangs, then up on jugs to top.

FA: Clive Parker & Chris Baxter, 1968

Pull through overhanging corner to bomber locks in corner crack and continue up ramp to pedestal and juggy wall on left.

Start: Start just right of 'Tarzan'.

FA: Rod Young & Jeremy Boreham, 1977

Short variant to 'Togrul Khan'. Climb right arete, either from left or right past fixed sling (which was originally fencing wire!).

Start: Start just R of TK.

FA: Mike Law, 1982

Companion route to Mesa. Start in chimney left of that route and follow the arete. Exit R to rap chain above Mesa.

FA: Unkonwn, 2000

Originally graded 6 via the ordinary chimney, and not highly rated. Now that the loose bits are gone, the start has been straightened out up the face off the boulder, and a lower-off has been added, this is one of the best easy grade routes in this part of Araps, with a wide variety of climbing.

Start: Start off the top of the big boulder on the ledge.

FA: Graham Squire & Clive Parker, 1966

Completes the trilogy of nice easy climbs in this area. Think of it as an indirect start to 'Predator'. Step off the 'Mesa' boulder and head up right to the airy arete. Continue steeply over the right side of the roof and up juggy groove to ledge. The 'Mesa' rap anchor is just to the left.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Tim Lockwood, 2011


Start: Start off boulder underneath roof.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, 1977

I Dunno to level with the traverse back right into Daily Planet, arrange a nest of good gear then continue straight up via a reachy and exciting sequence (RP possible mid crux).

FA: 2014

Start as for 'Daily Planet' then traverse L along break. Up past pocket to horizontal break. Stand up and move back R to finish up last moves on 'Daily Planet'. Lower off as for 'Daily Planet'.

FA: Chris Shepherd, Jeff Lamb, Paul Daniels & Mark Moorhead, 1981

FA: LH start from back of cave (24) was soloed (!) by Mike Law, 1982

FA: Tough direct start (24) by Jon Muir, 1982

FA: Direct Finish (25) by Kevin Lindorff., Dec 2014

Superman is lurking!

Start: Start at the R end of the 'Pilot Error' Ledge, R of the caves.

FA: Mark Moorhead & Rod Young, 1980

FA: (RHV by Michael Woodrow, David Karla & Anthony Bishop), 1992

From the top of the curving flake step right to cracks and up.

FA: Michael Woodrow, David Karla & Anthony Bishop, 1992

The badly protected seam right of 'Daily Planet'.

Start: Start 2m R of 'Daily Planet'.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1985

Roof above 'Togrul Khan' past two BR. Inadvertently retrobolted after the FA. It's a bit necky getting to the first bolt. The direct start from the bottom of the wall has been done (Smith Hoskins, 4/5/96), as has the sit start (!!) (Hoskins, 14/5/96).

Start: Start above 'Togrul Khan'.

FA: Geoff Weigand & Peter Croft (both solo), 1986

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