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1 3 43m
2 5 27m
3 4 20m
4 5 30m

description

An alpine-flavoured adventure that surely ranks as one of the finest routes of its grade in the world

Start: Left of the prominent ridge is a large terrace. Approach from below and to the left.

  1. 43m 3 step onto ridge and up

  2. 27m 5 up and over pinnacle

  3. 20m 4 up wall to big ledge on right

  4. 30m 5 head on up

Route history

Nov 1963First ascent: Greg Lovejoy & Steve Craddock

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: -36.75237, 141.83915

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Grade citation

3,5,4,5 Assigned grade
3 RockGUIDE: Victoria
3 A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite
5 Arapiles, Selected Climbs
5 Arapiles, Selected Climbs

ethic

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

inherited from Arapiles

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 84 from 617 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 211
Flash 9
Solo 244
Red point 27
Tick 243
Pink point 1
Top rope 3
Target 14

Comment keywords

hands awkward crap jugs crazy feet fingers epic chimney steep easy face rest bad vertical sunny interesting reachy short cruisy scary fall committing exposed runout fantastic exciting rad awesome amazing enjoyable classic beautiful lovely brilliant incredible super magic superb fabulous perfect good pleasant fun sweet nice great cool crux overhung hard tough solid

Selected Guidebooks all

Author(s): Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780987526427

This selected yet in depth guide, in its third edition in 2016, is a must for first timers or regulars to the "Pines". By Simon Mentz and Glenn Tempest. It features 1200 routes over 23 different areas as well as bouldering, history info on flora and fauna, plus heaps more.

Author(s): Gordon Poultney, Simon Carter

Date: 2013

ISBN: 9780987087461

444 of the best routes on the best stone on earth? Yes Please! Who has time for all those other wondering pitches anyway when Gordon Poultney and Simon Carter have picked out the classics and printed it in a pocket size handy guide with string attachment. You'll take it on the multipitches, you'll take it to read in the toilets, you'll take it everywhere!

Author(s): Chris Baxter & Glenn Tempest

Date: 1994

ISBN: 0646167308

A Guide to selected rockclimbs at Mt Arapiles,the Grampians and Mt Buffalo

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