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1 4 25m
2 8 35m
3 8 35m
4 6 25m
5 9 25m

description

A wonderful long classic, climbed at the same time as Introductory Route. A remarkably well-conceived line, it culminates in a magnificent final corner.

Start as for Introductory Route, on the right side of the Tiptoe Ridge buttress, about 10 metres right of a major corner (Ordinary Trees), where two detached blocks are sitting just off the ground. There's an overhang about 6 metres up and a large dead tree marking the top of the pitch.

  1. 25m (4) Up the wall, passing the overhang on the left, then up to the dead tree, as for the first pitch of Introductory Route.

  2. 35m (8) Move right and up a little crack then follow prominent right-leading diagonal to a spectacular ledge on the arete. Note that the climb originally climbed the latter part of this pitch out right near the arete, now included in the second pitch of Xena.

  3. 35m (8) A mildly terrifying step across the void leads to easy climbing diagonally right. A few tricky moves then lead to a comfortable ledge below the big corner, with DRB.

  4. 25m (6) Up corner to next ledge or carry on up the next pitch.

  5. 25m (9) Up corner which finishes with a few rounded layback moves, then continue up little wall and belay on terrace.

From here either walk off left along terrace and scramble up little gully and wall to top or climb little right-facing corner just left of final belay. This is grade 11.

Route history

18 Nov 1963First ascent: Greg Lovejoy & Steve Craddock

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: -36.75237, 141.83915

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Grade citation

4,8,8,6,9 Assigned grade
7 OZ Rock
7 RockGUIDE: Victoria
9 Arapiles, Selected Climbs
9 A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite
9 *** ACA Route Register

ethic

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

inherited from Arapiles

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
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N
D

Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 82 from 278 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 149
Flash 4
Red point 10
Solo 33
Tick 96
Top rope 1
Attempt 3
Target 17

Comment keywords

stuffed hard crux dyno challenging interesting easy bail slabby layback short face traverse epic crack chimney cruisy rest roof ripper fantastic good great awesome stupendous cool stoked nice classic fun amazing beautiful enjoyable superb exciting lovely super terrifying committing runout scary exposed intimidating

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