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Access: Closure

Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit. https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/-/media/project/pv/main/parks/documents/management-plans/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park---aboriginal-cultural-heritage-protections---october-2020.pdf

See warning details and discuss

Created 7 months ago
1 12 43m
2 12 12m
3 12 20m
4 12 15m
5 12 30m

description

Start at the R end of the base of the buttress.

  1. 43m (12) Up the slab (some fiddly pro) to L facing corner. Up corner to ramp. Belay at top of ramp.

  2. 12m (12) Move around the arete, then up. Airy traverse L around the arete (grovel across or grab the undercling, lean back and find good holds above), and across the front face to belay on the nose.

  3. 20m (12, crux) Diagonally R across the face to a bottomless chimney. Belay at the top of the chimney.

  4. 15m (12) Up the steep juggy line to the Bard Terrace.

  5. 30m (12) Up the bottomless corner then R onto and up the wall.

Route history

Mar 1965First ascent: Jim Newlands & Bruce Hocking

Warnings

14 Apr 2022 Warning Access: Closure

Location

Lat/Lon: -36.75728, 141.84539

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Grade citation

12,12,12,12,12 Assigned grade
12 OZ Rock
12 RockGUIDE: Victoria
12 A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite
12 Arapiles, Selected Climbs

ethic

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

inherited from Arapiles

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 87 from 728 ratings.

Difficulty - 12

Soft Touch
Easy
Average
Hard
Sandbag

Based on 1 ratings.

Suggested Grade

12

Based on 1 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 381
Flash 10
Solo 23
Red point 42
Tick 352
Top rope 1
Attempt 4
Target 23

Comment keywords

hands awkward adventurous polished jugs crazy feet traverse arete dry epic chimney layback slabby steep roof easy face flake jamming rest crack interesting sunny short undercling cruisy scary intimidating runout horrendous terrifying tricky committing exposed fantastic exciting rad wicked awesome amazing enjoyable classic beautiful lovely brilliant incredible super classy magic superb perfect good pleasant satisfying fun sweet nice stoked great cool crux hard sustained powerful tough solid

Selected Guidebooks all

Author(s): Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780987526427

This selected yet in depth guide, in its third edition in 2016, is a must for first timers or regulars to the "Pines". By Simon Mentz and Glenn Tempest. It features 1200 routes over 23 different areas as well as bouldering, history info on flora and fauna, plus heaps more.

Author(s): Gordon Poultney, Simon Carter

Date: 2013

ISBN: 9780987087461

444 of the best routes on the best stone on earth? Yes Please! Who has time for all those other wondering pitches anyway when Gordon Poultney and Simon Carter have picked out the classics and printed it in a pocket size handy guide with string attachment. You'll take it on the multipitches, you'll take it to read in the toilets, you'll take it everywhere!

Author(s): Chris Baxter & Glenn Tempest

Date: 1994

ISBN: 0646167308

A Guide to selected rockclimbs at Mt Arapiles,the Grampians and Mt Buffalo

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