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Flora and Fauna: Bird nesting near Eurydice area

Birds observed nesting near Eurydice. Climbing nearby routes (The Desired, Checkmate, etc.) appears to disturb them (Nov-2019).

See warning details and discuss

Created about two years ago

Access: Climbing not advised. SPA Area

See warning details and discuss

Created 5 months ago
1 12 43m
2 12 12m
3 12 20m
4 12 15m
5 12 30m

description

Start at the R end of the base of the buttress.

  1. 43m (12) Up the slab (some fiddly pro) to L facing corner. Up corner to ramp. Belay at top of ramp.

  2. 12m (12) Move around the arete, then up. Airy traverse L around the arete (grovel across or grab the undercling, lean back and find good holds above), and across the front face to belay on the nose.

  3. 20m (12, crux) Diagonally R across the face to a bottomless chimney. Belay at the top of the chimney.

  4. 15m (12) Up the steep juggy line to the Bard Terrace.

  5. 30m (12) Up the bottomless corner then R onto and up the wall.

Route history

Mar 1965First ascent: Jim Newlands & Bruce Hocking

Warnings

19 Nov 2019 Warning Flora and Fauna: Bird nesting near Eurydice area
30 Apr 2021 Warning Access: Climbing not advised. SPA Area

Location

Lat/Lon: -36.75723, 141.84553

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Grade citation

12,12,12,12,12 Assigned grade
12 OZ Rock
12*** Arapiles, Selected Climbs - 2008 2nd ed
12 *** ACA Route Register
12 RockGUIDE: Victoria
12 Arapiles, Selected Climbs
12 A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite

ethic

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

inherited from Arapiles

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
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D

Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 87 from 721 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 386
Flash 10
Red point 45
Solo 22
Tick 344
Top rope 1
Attempt 4
Target 23

Comment keywords

tough hard solid crux powerful sustained jugs interesting easy sunny slabby layback hands awkward steep crazy face epic traverse polished crack cruisy rest undercling flake short jamming arete feet adventurous dry chimney roof fantastic good great awesome magic brilliant cool perfect wicked stoked incredible nice rad pleasant classic sweet fun amazing classy superb enjoyable beautiful super lovely exciting satisfying committing runout tricky scary exposed terrifying horrendous intimidating

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