Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Bushranger Bluff Main Wall | |||||
26 | ★★ Climber-Model Denialists
Mosey up to the cave via the L crack, launch out onto the lip jugs of 'Repo Man', then veer R and up on good but spaced holds past two FH's into the finish of 'Cricket Bats In A Box'. FA: Douglas Hockly, 2017 | 20m, 2 | |||
Closed Declaration Crag Area Declaration Crag | |||||
26 | New Wave Winos
Start as for Saggitarian, head left under bulge and dyno up left through it past a carrot bolt hammered into a break like a piton. Yes, you read that correctly, and that's why I've attributed the route to Mike Law as surely noone else would have thought this was a great idea. I just TR'd it. FA: Mike Law, 1983 | 15m | |||
26 | ★★ Hit the Deck
Originally climbed by Claw with a rest and named "Wild Drugs and Crazy Sex". As for 'Look Sharp' to first bolt, then move left and up the wall past more bolts. FA: Mike Law FFA: Roland Foster, Philby & Eric Eastern Brown, 1984 | 18m, 4 | |||
Closed Declaration Crag Area Brain Death Boulder | |||||
V5 | ★★ The Big E
| 5m | |||
Colosseum Wall Area Comic Strip Wall | |||||
26 | ★★ Letting Go
The others noodled around for a few days cleaning up the easy stuff, then Moorhead produced this! Sustained, with a strenuous bouldery crux. In fact, two bouldery strenuous cruxes. Start at short black flake 10m R of 'Hyperspace'. Flake to grey coloured RB, L to pockets (#4 friend), then R up flake to tough finish. FA: Mark Moorhead & Jon Muir, 1981 | 15m, 1 | |||
Colosseum Wall Area Colosseum Wall | |||||
26 | Fitzroy Street
Wall 5 metres left of 'Crucifixion'. Hopelessly contrived. You can sort of make an OK 21 out of it by zigzagging left and right. FA: Martin Grullich, 1986 | 12m, 4 | |||
King Rat Area Light Fingered Gully | |||||
26 | ★ Motivated by Food
The seam. Start: Start just R of 'Hunger'. FA: Jon Muir & Geoff Little, 1989 | 25m, 1 | |||
King Rat Area King Rat Gully Left Fork | |||||
26 | Lazaretto
A forgotten Gordy concoction. up face past 2 FHs then move right to vague arete past two more FHs. FFA: Christopher Glastonbury, 11 Apr | 10m, 4 | |||
King Rat Area King Rat Gully Skydiver Wall | |||||
26 | ★★ Sustained Metaphor
A classic piece of Mike Law funkness. Start left of 'Skydiver' beneath the bolt and try your best to get off the ground and reach the sanctuary of the seam above (crux). Once into the seam, continue up the obvious line (grade 23 this section) via technical face climbing and more bolts. Pull through the top bulge on slopers and finish easily. FA: Mike Law, 1982 | 25m, 4 | |||
Pilot Error Cliffs Baby Buttress | |||||
26 | ★ Cry Baby
Up face via three bolts to anchor crux passing second bolt FA: Muki Woods, 2006 | 10m, 3 | |||
Pilot Error Cliffs Lois Lane Wall | |||||
26 R | ★ Magenweh
As for Heimweh, then veer L where Heimweh goes R into DaC. up past a few intermittent seams, then R into DaC up high. FFA: Christopher Glastonbury, 30 Jan 2022 | 15m, 2 | |||
26 R | ★ Heimweh
Start as for Debutantes. Runout up L and traverse back R on layaways in horizontal weakness to join DaC. Finish up this. FA: Wolfgang Güllich †, 1985 | 15m, 2 | |||
Atridae The Flight Deck | |||||
26 R | ★ Celine and Julie Go Bolting
There is good small gear and a peg at the start of Plimsoll to get going. Traverses right past a bolt to a rest then up past a second to a runout section. Airy. FA: Louise & Lincoln Shepherd, 1984 | 15m, 2 | |||
Atridae Agamemnon Area | |||||
26 | Raven
Start between NPS and CitS at the base of the V-slot the trail goes up. No bridging onto the opposite wall! Bad old FH, and then the crack. You can add to the fun by finishing up Crows in the Snow. FA: George Fieg & Dave Gray, 1992 | 12m, 1 | |||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Left Side Iron Void Pinnacle | |||||
26 | Iron Void Variant
A completely separate route despite the name! Start right of Iron Void and up. FA: Steve Monks | 15m | |||
Organ Pipes Area Rabbit Boulder | |||||
V5 | ★ Traverse the whole Bunny
| 15m | |||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Operation Leo Area | |||||
26 | ★★ So you think you can jamb
Just left of the wide left facing crack, Diet of Worms. Stick clip first bolt. Wide flaring crack (crux) then hand jam to sharp holds that lead slightly left and up, small wires available if needed. Take some slings for the bollards to the top. FA: Muki Woods, Ingvar Lidman & Lachlan Hick FA: muki woods & Hanz Fritzle, 2008 | 20m, 4 | |||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall | |||||
26 | Schnell
The short wall with a RB. Start: Start just R of TJ. FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984 | 10m, 1 | |||
26 R | ★ Fully Loaded
A direct finish to 'Die Loaded' which is a tad serious to lead due to the runout above the top of the initial crack. Technically 25 according to the FA, however 26 based on seriousness is a more apt grade. Start as for Die Loaded. Climb Die Loaded to the top of the pod, then against your better judgement crimp your way directly towards the hanging seam. Finish straight up the obvious corner. FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2007 | 28m | |||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Dog Face | |||||
26 | ★ Dogbolter
Up past a bolt. Start: Start just R of CC. FA: Steve Monks, 1986 | 10m, 1 | |||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Mari Buttress | |||||
26 | Purgatory
Not very popular, but if you must do it approach by moving left from Megalomaniac next to the cliff. Do not bash in direct from the Central Gully track as this can create erosion. Start below the sickle/crack of EA. Up past BR, take the bulge on the R, then more easily. FA: Kim Carrigan, 1985 | 25m | |||
26 | Polygap
As for M then left past two BR - middle contrived - continue to clip one more BR. FA: FRA Hoskins & Frost, 1994 | 36m, 3 | |||
26 | The Best of Hollywood
Arete left of Mari. Clip bolt from Mari then return to ledge to reach holds. FA: Kim Carrigan & Geoff Weigand, 1984 | 20m | |||
26 | King of the Jungle
"Climb the tree, and lean over to place a #3RP. Reverse to the ground and climb the arete". The tree is long gone so you'll need to preplace the RP by other means. Start at the arete just R of D. FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984 | 10m | |||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Cecilia Wall | |||||
26 | ★ Clap Hands
Crank up the line past FH to pedestal then roof, then L into shallow groove. Start 1.5m R of C. FA: Kim Carrigan, 1982 | 15m, 1 | |||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Skyline Walls | |||||
26 | ★ Fists of Fury
Bouldery, intense climbing on underclings left of Exodus II. Start on left side of wall beneath right-trending crack weakness, or alternatively 1m right of this. Boulder up to fixed wire in roof, surmount hanging 'slab' and undercling rightwards into easier territory. Basically a 10 move boulder problem. Bring your biceps. FA: Mark Moorhead, 1982 | 20m | |||
26 | ★★ Exodus lI
Well chalked line left of Copyright. Climbs like an overhung limestone power route. Boulder into the line and onwards via obvious double-undercling crux (and bolt) to a horizontal break on the left. Take a breath, then easier face climbing to the top. FA: Chris Shepherd, 1982 | 20m, 1 | |||
26 | ★★ Mass Exodus
Exodus 2.5 with the obvious finish - up Copyright. A brilliant undertaking in its own right, but lacking the contrived headwall finish of the original. | 20m | |||
V5 | ★★ Outrageous Coincidences
R to L boulder traverse | ||||
V5 | ★★★ Outrageous Coincidences (Exodus Finish)
R to L traverse starting on the obvious jug pocket and mono. Finish as for start of Exodus, the high jug. | ||||
V5 | Outrageous Coincidences R to L
| ||||
26 | ★★ Copyright Direct
Takes the line immediately right of Exodus II and left of Copyright. Boulder start to underclings (common theme here), then left to gain base of thin crack, and up. A more sustained version of Exodus II. FA: Chris Shepherd, 1983 | 20m | |||
26 | ★ Blast Off
Starts 5m right of Slip Slop Slap. Stick clip 1st rusty bolt (place back up wire just above it) then boulder strenuously up through initial bulge onto face. Try not to look at the state of the 2nd bolt as you make reachy moves past it. Gain lip of roof and stretch out right into cleaner rock. Ignore the old fixed RP. Belay possible on block above. FA: Wayne & Gavin Jensen, 1990 | 16m, 2 | |||
26 | Pull My Strings
Start 7m R of W. Stick clip the bolt then up the wall. FA: James Falla & Paul Hoskins, 1988 | 10m, 1 | |||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully The Torture Chamber | |||||
V6 | ★ 1) two small edges
| ||||
V5 | ★★ 5) Second thin seam
Lean back and lock your fingers into an amazing roof crack. Swing around and up from there. | 4m | |||
V5 | ★ Left side of scoop
Sit start, climb up left side of the scoop and finish up as for "big dyno". | ||||
{US} V6 | ★ 6) big dyno
| ||||
V5 | ★★ 7) classic traverse
| ||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Reaper Buttress | |||||
26 | Grimstone
Climb Reaper to the prominent chalked jug in the middle of the diagonal on pitch 2. Step right and ooze up the unlikely seam past a FH to gain the upper traverse on Taste Sensation. Step right again and climb the excellent face above passing a second FH, and staying R of the last FH of Taste Sensation. Rejoin Taste Sensation at its final crack, to chains (33m). FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2008 | 35m | |||
26 | ★★★ Incest Sensation Direct
Best of the lot - cheekily described as the Serpentine of Arapiles which is a bit of a stretch but it does have a lot of climbing on it. Incest into Taste Sensation Direct. 70m rope gets you to the boulder beneath Reaper. | 40m, 5 | |||
26 | ★ Sisterly and Christally
Up Incest to the pair of bolts, then directly upwards past a bolt and peg to roof (shared with Wild Reaper Connection to the left). Step right and pull through bulge. Easier climbing leads to the top. FA: Chris Shepherd, 1991 | 40m, 4 | |||
26 | ★★ The Perfect Match
Back wall. A mini Slopin' Sleazin'? Unconventional moves up an interesting feature left of Jilted. Start as for that route to its first BR, then head straight up to 2nd BR and span left to the base of unlikely arete/groove feature. Climb this to good pocket (BR), then continue past undercling to top. FA: Steve Kelly, 2008 | 10m, 3 | |||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Starless Buttress | |||||
26 X | ★★★ Redrum
Start as for Windsong but continue straight up instead of traversing right. Exit the Crux bulge above with small RP's for protection ( difficult to place on lead). The route then rejoins Windsong. Finish as for Breezin and Ride Like The Wind Direct Finish. FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2009 | 25m, 1 | |||
26 | ★ El Mega Pump
An unwitting retrobolt of the first section of GSTQ. Start: Start as for GSTQ. FA: Wayne Jensen, 1990 | 35m, 5 | |||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dreadnought Gully | |||||
26 R | End of the Earth
Originally established at 25 by taking a breather on the half-height ledge on the opposite side of the gully! To reach the start of the route, scramble up the wall opposite Dreadnought, to the big chockstone in the depths of the gully. Up short corner, then to the arete past bolt, then up and left to thin crack, then through overhangs to bolt, before moving up into left-facing corner. FA: Lincoln Shepherd, Chris Shepherd & Philby, 1991 FA: Done without stepping off by Dave Jones., 1998 | 25m, 2 | |||
26 R | Last Temptation Variant
The original version of Last Temptation. Climb the short arete, then up to roof. Break right over the hanging slab and join Great Temptation at its redpoint crux (also the point where the ledge is nearest). Finish as for that route. FA: Stuart Wythe, 2000 | 25m | |||
26 R | ★★ Great Temptation
Access via the chockstone halfway up the grade 4 access wall. You can also get here from the top of Dreadnought p1. Hand traverse, then the very overhung crack. The opposite wall is very close, so this route requires a very capable trad leader, or you might consider preplacing (easily done by leaning over from ledge then coming down the line from there). Also a good belayer is essential, and don't belay from the ground as there is no margin for excess ropestretch. FA: Mark Moorhead, 1981 | 15m | |||
26 | ★★ Deliciously Deranged
Starts on the small stance 5m up and left from the DRB above Dreadnought pitch 1. Climbs the impossible looking overhung face to gain the crack weakness and hanging corner 3m right of Great Temptation. Extremely hard dynamic start past a bolt leads to pockets up and right, then traverse back left into hanging corner to a rest. Onwards up the fantastic corner to top. FA: Mark Moorhead, 1981 | 25m, 2 | |||
26 | ★★ Cecil B De Mille
Start as for Dreadnought Variant but then stretch right to jugs, bolt and unique pillar pinch, finishing up and slightly left via a thin crux section. Powerful. FA: Mark Moorhead, 1981 | 20m, 1 | |||
26 | ★ Forced Entry
Start 1m left of No Exit and boulder leftwards into line (FH). Hard moves lead up, then back right into No Exit. Finish as for that route. FA: Kim Carrigan, 1985 | 15m, 1 | |||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dunes Buttress | |||||
26 X | Forbidden Fruit
The shenanigans on the first ascent suggest they were certainly consuming something forbidden... Start: Start 2m L of Semi-detached.
FA: James Falla, Dave Mudie (alt), Kieran Loughran, Richard Smith & late 80s, 1988 | 55m, 2, 2 | |||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Morfydd Wall | |||||
26 | ★ Anxious Boys with Power Toys
Plenty of angst here. Start 10m up L from Trench Warfare. FA: Gordon Poultney, Donna Bridge & David Jones + 1, 1993 | 15m, 2 | |||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Ali's Area | |||||
26 | The Dude Abides
Start 1m left of Nursery Rhymes. Climb the funky roof to the left of Nursery Rhymes' crack passing 2 bolts. Join Nursery Rhymes on the arete and follow this to where it moves right. Move left instead passing a third bolt to gain an enormous hanging jug and a cramped rest. For full value avoid the temptation to bridge out left. From the jug step back right and crank a short boulder past a final bolt before finishing straight up the delightful headwall above. Bring a full set of wires to supplement the bolts. FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2010 | 30m, 4 | |||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Closed Fang Buttress | |||||
26 | Hot Finger
Follow the BRs. Start: Start just L of O-W. FA: Martin Grulich, 1986 | 10m, 3 | |||
26 | ★ Strolling Direct Start
Obvious direct start (2 FHs) into 'Strolling', joining that route at its crux. Start: 5m R of Fang and 5m L of 'Strolling'. FA: Gordon Poulteney | 20m, 3 | |||
26 | ★★★ Ergonomics
Recently re-bolted. Excellent long-overlooked addition that incorporates a direct finish to Strolling RHV. Direct line up the centre right of the buttress that would have been completely uncontroversial had it pre-dated Strolling RHV. Sustained climbing leads up and slightly left through a bulge to a technical crux. After the 4th bolt, continue straight up on blowable slopey pockets. Do not traverse off R here if you want to bathe in the social recognition of a legitimate ascent. Start: 3m R of Strolling. FA: Dave Jones 2005; Dave Jones | 20m, 5 | |||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Closed Plaque | |||||
26 | Wilma Holds Her Own
As for FoF to piton, then L to seam. Start: Start as for FoF. FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984 | 12m | |||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Golden Streak Area Boulders Animal Acts | |||||
V5 | ★★ Traverse
| ||||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Krondorf Area Boulders Pinch Arete and Pebble Wall | |||||
V5 | ★ Jump to Jug
| 7m | |||
V6 | ★★ V6
| 4m | |||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Krondorf Area Boulders Krondorff Boulder | |||||
V5 | 1(b)
The Continuation of the traverse (1) on the wall facing the creek | ||||
V6 | 3
Steep arete facing the creek | ||||
V6 | ★★ 9
Sit start. Up then a few moves on the lip of the roof | 3m | |||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Krondorf Area Boulders Trackside/Hammer Boulder | |||||
V5 | ★★★ Sledgy
Sit start, then move up through side pull and fun sequence of edges and jugs to top out on high but good holds. | 5m | |||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Krondorf Area Boulders The Playground | |||||
V5 | ★ Five
A linkup that traverses the cave, twice. Start as for "Four", traverse leftwards and then finish up traversing right as per "One". | ||||
Bluffs John's Pinnacle | |||||
26 | Atomic Fusion
As for H to BR then trend L to roof, BR on lip, then up middle of face with high BR. FA: Martin Grulich, 1986 | 25m, 3 | |||
Bluffs Denim Wall | |||||
26 | ★★ Concise Exercise
Sustained. Start 12m up L from the start of Denim, part way up Vixen but access via ledge. Traverse the wall to finish up See You Round. FA: Scott Camps & Paul Johnston, 1988 | 35m, 5 | |||
26 | ★★★ Denim
"It will laugh at attempts to free it" - Keith Lockwood, Arapiles guidebook 1978. Freed by Kim in 1979 it didn't laugh for long but it still has plenty of chuckles at aspirants. Louise Shepherd made a particularly impressive ascent in 1984 - she fell off the initial roof, lowered off then did it second shot, onsighting most of the route and placing the gear. Possibly the first female ascent at this grade in AU (she'd previously onsighted 26 (!) in Yosemite in 1981). Start on the L side of the wall.
FA: Chris Baxter, John Moore & Clive Parker (aid), 1968 FFA: Kim Carrigan & Eddy Ozols, 1979 | 45m, 2, 2 | |||
26 | ★ See You Round
A very tough crux down low. Start just L of the south entrance to Ali Baba's Cave. Bulge then crack. FA: Mark Moorhead & Jon Muir, 1981 | 20m | |||
Bluffs Flinders Lane Area | |||||
26 | Imagination DS
Start just R of SC. Fixed wire and BR to join the original. FA: Kim Carrigan FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984 | 8m, 1 | |||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | |||||
26 R | Very Anxious
Sounds like it might be serious, or maybe it's just that Louise was having a go at Kim's psyche. Who knows. Start down L of AN and go straight up to join AN at it's crux. Finish at AN pitch 1 lower-offs. FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984 | 20m | |||
26 R | ★ Holy Moses
Start at the first belay of AN. Up the face just L of the arete (the arete being p2 of AN). Then join a sickle with a fixed wire. Sparse pro. Finish at lower-offs above AN pitch 2. FA: Mark Moorhead & Kim Carrigan, 1981 | 20m | |||
26 | ★★★ Anxiety Neurosis
Start under the R side of the low overhang on the N arete of Bluff Major.
| 27m, 2, 4 | |||
26 | ★★ Anxiety Neurosis P2 Direct
From the anchor of Anxiety P1, head straight up the arete on its right side, but instead of deviating out left in the last two-thirds (original finish), keep trucking up the arete all the way, to lower-offs. FA: Jill McLeod | 20m | |||
26 | ★★ Bounds
Follow Anticipation towards AN, as far as a ledge with a FH. Now go straight up disconnected seams to a bolt then step L to bulging crack, finishing at lower-offs above ND. Needs plenty of #3 RPs. FA: Kim Carrigan & Geoff Weigand, 1984 | 30m, 2 | |||
26 R | ★★★ New Diocese Bulk More Direct
Up ND but instead of trending R go up then L, very bold, to lower-offs. Eddy Mofardin has also climbed a variant, perhaps a bit further left of Roland's line, but this could do with clarification. Eddy FA: Roland Foster & Philby, 1984 | 30m | |||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major West Face | |||||
26 | ★★ The Prow
Start as for StS. As for StS to the break then up the arete, making sure your photographer is ready for when you whip. FA: Simon Mentz & Andrew Eastaugh, 1994 | 22m, 6 | |||
26 | The Year of Loving Dangerously
Start 4m R of, and 8m down from, D. Bring brackets. Slim groove with BR, then L onto ledge. Now over roof (BR) and follow faint groove up R to next roof (BR), and then join Despatched. Mix of rings and carrot bolts FA: Nick White & Kelly Lenglet, 1991 | 30m, 5 | |||
26 | ★ Veneer
Start 3m left of Unrequited. Climb the face left of Unrequited passing three bolts before gaining that route a few moves before it escapes right. Step left and boulder the short wall above passing a final high bolt. FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2009 | 15m, 4 | |||
26 | Recent Theft
Start 5m R of Unrequited. Bouldery past the bolt. FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984 | 20m, 1 | |||
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall | |||||
26 | ★ Into the Black
The steep bits look like a hoot, shame about the rest. Previously said to be a 30m route which was certainly wrong. The total height to Flinders Lane is 100m. The difficult section finishes after about 50m. Start: Start as for TGTBaTU.
FA: Mark Moorhead & Roddy McKenzie, 1980 | 30m, 2 | |||
26 | ★ The Last Emperor
Starts a pitch up and climbs wall between Marbuck and You Can't Stop the Gobble - see topo. Belay on ledge Up the orange wall and through the bulge (crux) then left across the steep wall R of Marbuck. Rap as for Marbuck. Two bolts. FA: Malcolm Matheson, 2015 | 32m, 2, 2 | |||
26 | ★★ Vanya Going Underground
Fantastic climbing and very, very tough. The route was done with a fixed wire to protect the start - the wire is no longer there so you may want to place it on rap. Up the thin seam on the orange streak, L and up flake, head R then back L and over roof. Start: Start 6m R of NF. FA: Lincoln Shepherd, 1984 | 25m | |||
26 R | ★★ Is Vanya a Dog?
A very technical and super reach dependent face route which is a tad bold to start. Used to be a very sandbagged 24 for many years. Solid for the current grade! FA: Lincoln Shepherd, 1983 FFA: 1983 | 18m, 1 | |||
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Boulders Crankshaft Boulder | |||||
V6 | ★★ Crankshaft Traverse
| ||||
V4/5 | ★★★ Str'obe
Climb Str'ight Wall to the jugs, reverse Waterboys and finish via the hardish left arete variant of Left Wall for the extra half grade. | 17m | |||
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Boulders Gonzo Boulder | |||||
V5 | ★★ Blunt arete
Sit start and up via slopers on blunt arete above blocks between the two Gonzos. | ||||
V6 | ★ Traverse
| ||||
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Boulders The Chicken Boulder | |||||
V5 | V5
Jump to the poor hold and head right and up. | 5m | |||
V6 | ★★★ Attack a Helpless Chicken
| 6m | |||
Castle Crag | |||||
26 | Think Positive
As for 'The Low Down' until 1st bolt, then go up R to another bolt and into 'A Cut Above'. Step R into mossy seam and head up to ledge with rap anchors. FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984 | 22m | |||
26 | ★ Siva Eva Mor Direk
Crimp straight up from where Siva Direct spans left. A better finish. FA: Gordon Poultney | 15m, 1 | |||
26 | ★ Siva Direct
As for Siva, then move slightly right and up past carrot bolt, then fixed hanger. A span to holds on the arete allows passage into the top of Swinging thereafter. Originally graded 24 in Carrigan's '83 guide. Incorrectly drawn up in the Mentz/Tempest Select Guide as a LH finish to The Overtaker. FA: Mark Moorhead., 1983 | 20m, 2 | |||
26 | ★★★ Procol Harum
The country's first 26. Start: At the back L corner of the cave a line leads up to the prominent roof crack. FA: Chris Baxter & Andrew Smith, 1966 FFA: Kim Carrigan, 1978 | 25m | |||
Grotto Wall Area Grotto Wall | |||||
26 | Soft Cock
Position yourself at the base of the coq. slide up and right passing a bolt, then when things start to ease off, jump back on the coq and take it to the top. | 17m, 3 | |||
Voodoo Area New Image Wall | |||||
25/26 | ★★ Lick the Spoon
Thin with some long moves on fantastic rock. 5 FHs to the right of Blackguard. Lower off. FA: Gareth Llewellin & Geordie Webb, 4 Nov 2016 | 20m, 5 | |||
Voodoo Area Rats Alley | |||||
26 | ★★ Crystal Vision
Climb the thin wall between CP and T. Bring medium cams to make an anchor for belaying. Re-Bolted 2024 FA: John Smoothy & Mark Colyvan, 1986 | 20m, 4 | |||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Death Row Pinnacle | |||||
26 | ★★ Redacted 1
Supercedes the old route Action Kid. Varied climbing with four different cruxes. Up 3m L of 'Social Comment' to ledge then continue straight up through a slopey bulge (crux 1) past a bolt. Crimp and slab R (passing underneath another bolt) into 'Birdman Of Alcatraz' (crux 2) then span right onto headwall (crux 3), to stance in crack. Right to 4th bolt and powerfully up (crux 4!). If you don't go right at the top but go straight up to the chains, it's called 'Redacted 2', also 26. FA: Kieran Lawton & Gordon Poultney, 2010 | 30m, 4 | |||
26 | ★★ Redacted 2
As for "Redacted 1", but avoids stepping out right at the finish and goes straight up via a fixed hanger. It features some fantastic (and weird) climbing, such that most people seem to choose this finish rather than the original. | 25m, 4 |