A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Kieran Loughran Campbell Gome benwiessner Douglas Hockly Wendy Eden Brendan Heywood Gareth Llewellin Ben Hanley Robert Mudie Dave Scarlett
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Table of contents
- 1.
The Pharos and Surrounds
465 in Crag
-
1.1.
The Pharos 153 in Crag
- 1.1.1. Death Row Pinnacle 23 in Cliff
- 1.1.2. The Never Boulder 1 in Boulder
- 1.1.3. Uncle Charlie 37 in Cliff
- 1.1.4. Front Wall and West Face 40 in Cliff
- 1.1.5. Back Wall 30 in Cliff
- 1.1.6. South Face 13 in Cliff
- 1.1.7. The French Crack Area 9 in Cliff
-
1.2.
Pharos Gully 169 in Crag
- 1.2.1. Vanoise Area 41 in Cliff
- 1.2.2. Duck Crag 8 in Cliff
- 1.2.3. Baker's Wall 15 in Cliff
- 1.2.4. Heckle and Jeckle Area 24 in Cliff
- 1.2.5. Voidoid Pinnacle 9 in Cliff
-
1.2.6.
Huey and Satellites 29 in Cliff
- 1.2.6.1. Upper Pharos Gully 12 in Area
- 1.2.6.2. Jackass Wall 10 in Area
- 1.2.7. Spellbinder Area 17 in Cliff
- 1.2.8. Cheops Buttress 15 in Cliff
- 1.2.9. Ethereal Buttress 9 in Cliff
-
1.2.10.
Pharos Gully Bouldering 2 in Boulder
- 1.2.10.1. Ministry of fig pluckers 2 in Boulder
-
1.3.
Yesterday Gully 106 in Crag
- 1.3.1. Lower Gully 54 in Cliff
-
1.3.2.
Upper Gully 52 in Cliff
- 1.3.2.1. Parsley Area 7 in Area
-
1.4.
Pharos Boulders 37 in Crag
- 1.4.1. Superman Boulder 7 in Boulder
-
1.4.2.
Around the World Boulder 9 in Boulder
- 1.4.2.1. Road Face 7 in Feature
-
1.4.3.
Monkey Puzzle Boulder 13 in Boulder
- 1.4.3.1. Road Face 13 in Feature
- 1.4.4. Finalgon Boulder 6 in Boulder
- 1.4.5. Uphill from Finalgon 2 in Boulder
-
1.1.
The Pharos 153 in Crag
- 2. Index by grade
1. The Pharos and Surrounds 465 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -36.753541, 141.840995
Stick to the paths.
Don't disturb the wildlife.
Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.
Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).
description
Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Pharos Area
access issues
Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit. https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/-/media/project/pv/main/parks/documents/management-plans/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park---aboriginal-cultural-heritage-protections---october-2020.pdf
Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.
State Park - no dogs. No fires allowed Oct-Apr (inclusive).
ethic
Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.
Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.
Do not chip the rock.
Look after the park.
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1.1. The Pharos 153 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -36.753659, 141.841252
description
Named for the Pharos of Alexandria (the ancient lighthouse) not the Pharaohs of Egypt, this 100m high pinnacle is separated from the main face by a narrow chasm.
Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Pharos Area
approach
10-15 min walk N from the camp ground.
Descent is via a 50m abseil from the rap station on the SW arete, a similar length abseil down Kingdom Come from the top of Lamplighter or a scramble and some short abseils on the east-south-east side
1.1.1. Death Row Pinnacle 23 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -36.754017, 141.841984
description
The separate pinnacle on the camp ground side of the Pharos. Birdman of Alcatraz is the L leading diagonal crack.
Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Death Row Area
descent notes
Rap off back side from bolts on boulder above 'Bent' or scramble down.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Lichenthrope
About 3m right of the far left edge of DR Pinnacle. Move up and right to bulging small overhang. Up and over this then slightly back left across cloud princess like lovely lumps. Straight up to top. FA: Kai Seth Robertson, 15 May 2018 | 14 | 20m | |||||
2 |
Retsina
Appealing leftward leaning clean crack, then up to finish just left of 'Rush Hour'. A longer version has been done (and re-named "I'm Lichen It") by finishing left into corner, through bulge and on to summit block. Start: Start 2-3m L of RH. FA: Andy Reynolds, Kieran Loughran (extended version added by John Lattanzio & Greg Pritchard)., 2006 | 16 | 12m | |||||
3 |
★ Rush Hour
Start beneath the low "col" on the L side of the Pinnacle. Climb straight up the burgundy water streak. FA: Kieran Loughran & Meg Sleeman, 1989 | 15 | 15m | |||||
4 |
★★ Redacted 1
Supercedes the old route Action Kid. Varied climbing with four different cruxes. Up 3m L of 'Social Comment' to ledge then continue straight up through a slopey bulge (crux 1) past a bolt. Crimp and slab R (passing underneath another bolt) into 'Birdman Of Alcatraz' (crux 2) then span right onto headwall (crux 3), to stance in crack. Right to 4th bolt and powerfully up (crux 4!). If you don't go right at the top but go straight up to the chains, it's called 'Redacted 2', also 26. FA: Kieran Lawton & Gordon Poultney, 2010 | 26 | 30m, 4 | |||||
5 |
★★ Redacted 2
As for "Redacted 1", but avoids stepping out right at the finish and goes straight up via a fixed hanger. It features some fantastic (and weird) climbing, such that most people seem to choose this finish rather than the original. | 26 | 25m, 4 | |||||
VariantsThere are a number of great variants on this section of rock, but to write them all up as new routes would clutter everything up. Instead, they are listed below (thanks to Glenn Tempest for most of the route descriptions).
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7 |
Action Kid
This line must climb quite poorly for it not to get any stars - because the wall looks fantastic! Start 3m L of 'Social Comment', 20m R of 'Rush Hour'. Thin crack thru bulge to ledge. Up past BR, go L then back R and join Birdman on ledge. R up groove past BR. FA: Craig Peacock & Lincoln Shepherd (Mike Law added the DS in), 1982 | 24 | 40m, 2 | |||||
8 |
★ Social Comment
Not many routes this easy get you up a wall like this. Start: Start below a L arching V-crack, 6m L of Birdman.
FA: Roger Murphy & Neil Philips, 1977 | 13 | 37m, 2 | |||||
9 |
★★ Bent
Thin seam, cross Birdman to join Bad. Undercling L under roof to hanging corner, then L below bulge to finish up crack (BR). Start: Start 2.5m L of Birdman. FA: Mike Law & Brian Fish, 1982 | 24 | 25m, 1 | |||||
10 |
★★ Bent DF
Avoids the last hard bit of Bent. It's thought that this finish might be where Bad P2 went (before the bolt!). Climb the majority of Bent, until the point where that route steps left across the void; instead, go up the round arete on good edges past a bolt. | 23 | 40m, 1 | |||||
11 |
★★★ Birdman of Alcatraz
Considered by many to be the best 23 at 'Arapiles'. Start where the dominant flake/line reaches the ground. Follow the line, except at halfway where you need to traverse L for a few metres below the flake before going up to rejoin it. Staying with the flake is reachy 25. FFA: Kevin Lindorff FA: Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth (aid), 1969 | 23 | 30m | |||||
12 |
★★ Bad
Great first pitch. Pitch 2 seems a bit contrived and is usually not done. Start: Start 1m R of Birdman.
FA: Kim Carrigan, Tony Marian & Greg Child, 1978 | 23 | 45m, 2 | |||||
13 |
★★★ Death Row
Layback corner then L into the "condemned cell", which takes some escaping! Great moves continue above, trending slightly L. Top anchor is several bits of rope/tat with a mallion. Walk over the top of the pinnacle, with a short down-climb to a rap anchor behind boulder. Start: Start at the L-facing corner at the R end of the main face. FA: Chris Dewhirst & Phillip Stranger, 1967 | 18 | 45m | |||||
14 |
Commuted
Start as for 'Death Row' Climb the initial corner on 'Death Row' and continue straight on up the line instead of stepping left into the condemned cell. Delicate, airy moves over a bulge lead to a corner system capped by a small roof. Bridge spectacularly through the left side, or more easily on the right. Continue up wall right of the arête to the top of the pinnacle. FA: Keith Lockwood & Kieran Loughran, 2003 | 18 | 45m | |||||
15 |
★ Tequila Mockingbird
A ramble up the northern aspect of 'Death Row Pinnacle'. The first pitch was the scramble down from 'Garden Gnome' before the rap anchor went in. Start from a ledge right of Death Row ’s condemned cell and a bit down left from 'Garden Gnome' .
FA: Keith Lockwood & Ray Lassman, 12 Jun 2015 | 10 | 40m, 2 | |||||
16 |
★★ Garden Gnome
Cute little thing starting 20m up right from 'Death Row'. Crack to ledge, then seam up grey face. FA: Kevin Lindorff & Kim Carrigan, 1979 | 17 | 20m | |||||
17 |
Cloud Piercer
Start 2m R of 'Sky Scraper' , just R of native pine. Groove, step L, straight over bulge. FA: Lindorff & Carrigan, 1979 | 21 | 16m | |||||
18 |
Sky Scraper
Contrived. Start 3m R of 'Garden Gnome'. Steep seam 2m L of 'Cloud Piercer', R at bulge but stay out of 'Cloud Piercer'. FA: Carrigan & Lindorff, 1979 | 22 | 18m | |||||
19 |
Buttons
Directly behind Garden Gnome some 10 metres around the corner. Short steep line to a series of scoops that look like buttons. Rap off Garden Gnome chains. FA: Hywel Rowlands amd Michael Dowling, 8 Jun 2014 | 14 | 10m | |||||
20 |
★ Black Box
4 metres right of Buttons. Tricky climbing up black stained wall into small sentry box. Out to right side of box and head up arête of pinnacle. FA: Hywel Rowlands & Michael Dowling, 8 Jun 2014 | 14 | 25m | |||||
21 |
Black Box Direct Start
Nicer than the sentry-box start and no harder! Fingery wall midway between Black Box and Howling moving slightly left to join the original climb at about 6m. FA: Kieran Loughran & Norm Booth, 6 Feb 2016 | 14 | ||||||
22 |
Howling
5 metres right of Black Box. Climb middle of orange wall using little pockets and directly up middle of slabby pinnacle although this is run out (easy escape left of right). FA: Hywel Rowlands & Michael Dowling, 8 Jun 2014 | 18 | 25m | |||||
23 |
Water Wings
5 metres right of Howling. Start as for 'Laurel and Hardy' directly under the rap chains. Thereafter take left leaning crease in rock and the easiest left line to the pinnacle summit. FA: Hywel Rowlands & Josh Bassett, 7 Jun 2014 | 8 | 25m | |||||
24 |
Laurel and Hardy
Slapstick. Straight up the rap route on the back of the Death Row Pinnacle. FA: Bert Levy & Andrew Martin, 1998 | 15 | 20m |
1.1.2. The Never Boulder 1 route in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -36.753810, 141.841603
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Never Say Never
FFA: Nalle Hukkataival, 2012 | V14 |
1.1.3. Uncle Charlie 37 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -36.753652, 141.841585
description
Home to some of the hardest routes at Araps, Uncle Charlie is the outcrop at the NE corner of the Pharos, close to the road and recognizable for the twin chimneys.
Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Pharos Area
descent notes
Most routes have rap anchors, otherwise top out and scramble (carefully) across the wedged boulder onto the Pharos.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Pretty In Punk
An amazing effort by a relatively unsung local. This completely natural (read, "not chipped or glued" like its famous sibling) has some genuinely difficult (as if the grade weren't required to confirm it already) slabby traversing early on before pulling into Punks, climbing it for a few metres before escaping out R to the arete. Start beneath the R-leading arch, a few metres up L of PitG. FA: Stuart Wyithe, 1994 | 32 | 20m, 4 | |||||
2 |
★★ Punks Addiction
Joins the hardest bits of both routes and is supposedly a grade harder than each of them. At least two repeats, Chris Lindner in 2009 and Byam Keil in 2023. Start as for Pretty in Punk, finish as for Punks in the Gym. FA: David Jones | 33 | 25m, 9 | |||||
3 |
★★★ Punky Brewster
The master of combinations and permutations digs up another classic. This one links the "easy" bits of the two original routes. Start as for Punks in the Gym, finish as for Pretty in Punk. FA: Nathan Hoette | 30 | 25m | |||||
4 |
★★★ Punks in the Gym
The easiest line up a great, albeit only mildly overhanging wall. Probably the world's first 8b+ / 5.14a and ahead of its time in Australian terms - it took nearly ten years before an Aussie (Stuart Wyithe) repeated it! Despite masses of beta available on the internet, it still sees very few quick ascents, hasn't been onsighted and is still regarded as somewhat of a testpiece with a redpoint crux far above the technical crux and accounting for many an accomplished climber. Many argue the route is easier than when Wolfgang and Stefan Glowacz did it in the mid 80's due to the increased size of the crux glue hold (the notorious birdbath). For a while considered "only" 31, it seems to have re-consolidated at 32. Start as for Punks in the Gunks. At its traverse, instead go up, L and up, up, up to chains at the top. FFA: Wolfgang Güllich †, 1985 | 32 | 30m, 7 | |||||
5 |
★★ Punks in the Gunks
Please do not climb during nesting season (August to December). Start as for Punks up the leaning diagonal, but traverse off R at the second bolt to chains on the arête. The first bolt is very high and a committing clip for those at this grade. FA: Chris & Lincoln Shepherd, 1982 | 25 | 15m, 2 | |||||
6 |
★★ Punks at the Piles
Please do not climb during nesting season (August to December). Start at the bottom R side of the Punks wall. It's the line just L of the arete with the carrot bolt. FA: Kim Carrigan & Tony Dignan, 1984 | 25 | 20m, 2 | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
7 |
★★ Ciela
Really fun arete slapping. Please do not climb this route during nesting season (August to December). Start beneath the hanging nose. FA: Uwe Eder & Axl Krapf, 1995 | 28 | 15m, 3 | |||||
8 |
★ Purler
Please do not climb during nesting season (August to December). Start as for Pearls Before Swine. This should be a trad route but unfortunately has been retrobolted by the first and last bolts of Ciela. FA: Kim Carrigan & Louise Shepherd, 1979 | 22 | 20m, 2 | |||||
9 |
★ Pearls Before Swine
Please do not climb during nesting season (August to December). Start beneath the hanging nose of Ciela.
FA: Kevin Lindorff (Chris Baxter & Andrew Bowman had previously done the 2nd pitch), 1974 | 20 | 48m, 2 | |||||
10 |
★ Growing Pains
The easiest way to sample the awesome front face of Uncle Charlie - if you like grade 25 traversing, that is. If you wish to climb this during nesting season (August to December), please approach via Uncle Charlie's Right Nostril, not the Left. Start as for PBS.
FA: Kim Carrigan, Evelyn Lees & Louise Shepherd, 1981 | 25 | 45m, 2, 1 | |||||
11 |
Uncle Charlie's Left Nostril
Uncle Charlie no doubt wonders why everyone calls his right nostril the left! Please do not climb during nesting season (August to December). Start a few metres down R of PBS, underneath the L nostril. FA: John Bennett & Russel Judge (aid). Greg Child (freed roof) 1976. Kim Carrigan, 1964 | 23 | 45m | |||||
12 |
Bridge
The guides say it's only 15m, but the easier top section makes it almost double that. Please do not climb during nesting season (August to December). Start up one of the previous routes to gain the base of the L chimney. FA: Kim Carrigan & Tony Dignan, 1984 | 24 | 15m, 1 | |||||
13 |
★★ Picking Winners
Start 2m L of UCRN.
FA: Kim Carrigan & Kevin Lindorff (alt), 1979 | 27 | 50m, 2 | |||||
14 |
Redolence
Starts from the base of the chimney at the top the first pitch of Uncle Charlie's Right Nostril and Picking Winners (the original belay). Step around left to the seam that runs up the buttress just right of centre. A few exciting moves to get going, then follow the line to the top. FA: Kevin Lindorff, Aug 2016 | 22 | 20m | |||||
15 |
★★ Uncle Charlie's Right Nostril
Old fashioned battle. According to Simey's guide the aid was eliminated before it had even been aided...visionary! Start beneath the R crack underneath the R chimney. FA: Kim Carrigan (direct) FA: Chris Dewhirst & John Moore (aid), 1965 FA: Chris Peisker(deviating into the Picking Winners trench for a few metres), 1978 | 25 | 45m | |||||
16 |
Uncle Charlie’s Right Nostril Variant/Extension
After the crux of UCRN, easy climbing leads up left for a few metres to the current chains. However, the original belay was another two body-lengths higher at the base of the chimney (this was also the original belay on Picking Winners; the 2nd pitch of PW then stepped right and climbed the obvious bulging crack above). This variant provides a slightly harder and more sustained pitch than the original. It continues directly up from the crux of UCRN (instead of moving left to the chains) to take the short tricky bulge (the new crux) to a double ring anchor immediately below the start of the second pitch of PW. FA: Kevin Lindorff, Jul 2016 | 26 | 15m | |||||
17 |
★ Somalia
Deterred many very strong suitors for many years and finally fell to the Kiwi Wizz kid FA: Wiz Fineron, 2012 | 33 | ||||||
18 |
★★★ Ethiopia
The prime line hereabouts. All the hard bit of India then step L and up the middle of the steep wall through the top roof to lower offs. FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984 | 30 | 30m, 3 | |||||
19 |
★★★ India
An amazing line through some steep bulges. It will work your shoulders and test your footwork as you try to unlock its hidden secrets. Start on the R side of the awe inspiring blank bulging orange face. Up crack before stepping left into the difficulties. Finishes out right up easier ground to DRB. Notable for an early send by Christine Gambert (FR) in 1986, when it was 29, likely the first female ascent at either grade in AU. Was also the first route in AU given grade 29, originally done by stepping L higher than is now the norm, but has slipped to 28. FA: Kim Carrigan & Kevin Lindorff, 1982 | 28 | 25m | |||||
20 |
Wisdom of Body
Not his finest addition. Brutally hard undercling moves and very, very rarely repeated. Start as for Nose Job then bust left. FA: Wolfgang Güllich †, 1985 | 30 | 15m | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
21 |
★★ Nose Job
In typical Lindorff style this is a plum line, but undergraded and underprotected (possibly more so since a block broke off it). Gee it looks good though. Start 2m R of India, up the tough corner, across CoC and up a steep little crack finish to lower offs. FA: Kevin Lindorff & Kim Carrigan, 1978 | 24 | 30m | |||||
22 |
★★ Nose Job Direct Start / Coming in Nose
Start on Coming on Chris and then at the crossroad with Nose Job follow it right for a much harder finish. Probably about the same grade as Nose Job because on both variants you get a good rest before the hardest section, but the first section on this variant is easier. | 24 | 25m | |||||
23 |
★★ Coming on Chris
A route on this pinnacle for the mere mortal. A fun climb! FA: Mike Law, 1976 | 16 | 25m | |||||
24 |
Coming on Chris Direct Finish
Straight up past a bolt instead of traversing L. | 21 | 20m, 1 | |||||
25 |
Winter is Coming
Was a bolted sport route ....looks to be only one bolt now. FA: Duncan Brown | 22/23 | ||||||
26 |
★ Hard Awesome Looking Project
Looks bloody desperate. | 17m, 4 | ||||||
27 |
★★ Virginia
Steep deep wide crack. Overhangs more than most 18s! Can be bridged without much thrutching, but some large gear can be handy. Stays dry in light rain too. Start about 20m up the gully R from CoC. FA: Phillip Stranger & Chris Dewhirst, 1967 | 18 | 25m | |||||
28 |
★ Midgets Club
Start on ledge opposite Virginia on the Pharos. Up the cracks, veering left through blocky roof. Then traverse left past the giant chock stone bridge, and up to the anchor on Spasm in a Chasm. Rap off Spasm’s Anchor back to the belay ledge. FA: Jae Zhong & muki woods, 30 Oct 2019 | 14 | 27m | |||||
29 |
★ Yes Please
The pencil thin crack (originally with a manky fixed wire, now with a bolt). After the crack sneak out left and finish up Virginia. One bolt plus trad. Start 5m L of Spasm. FA: Chris Shepherd & Michael Collie, 1982 | 25 | 10m | |||||
30 |
★★ All My Exes Live in Texas
Climb nearly all of Yes Please past it's bolt but instead of escaping left under the roof, do a move right and continue up the wall past two more bolts. There's a stance left of the last bolt, from here traverse right along the horizontal break that leads to the last headwall of Spasm. Finish up this (sideways #7 rock in pocket) to glory. Offers superb sustained climbing if head right from last bolt to undercling on spasm and past both it's dynos. 3 bolts plus a handful of wires (or small-med cams). FA: Gareth Llewellin, 12 Dec 2014 | 25 | 20m, 3 | |||||
31 |
★★★ Spasm in a Chasm
Unless they've joined into one continuous white streak by now, the white patches and ticks will show you the way. Almost certainly easier for the taller types, it's also harder now than when established because a key foothold during the traverse broke off (it's still 25 though). Take a medium-to-large sized wire (e.g. #6 sideways or #7 WC rock) for the top (above the big jug) which inconveniently reduces the size of a key hold in a non-grade-altering way. A couple of large RP's in a seam at the start should prevent your belayer following you off the ledge in the event of falling getting to the first bolt. Otherwise, stick clip the first bolt or just don't fall. Start off the wedged boulder near the highpoint of the chasm. FA: Lincoln Shepherd, 1983 | 25 | 25m, 3 | |||||
32 |
★ Disbarred / Debarred (incorrectly in Mentz/Tempest 2008)
Four bolts on the wall right of Spasm. Don't bridge at the start but do bridge the finish. FA: Gordon Poultney & Rob Oliver, 2007 | 24 | 15m, 4 | |||||
33 |
★★ Escape
Stem up chimney with feet on one side and hands on the other, to a jug. Then climb the steep line with two bolts (new as of 2015). Start just inside the SE end of the Spasm Chasm. FA: Mark Moorhead & Jon Muir, 1981 | 26 | 25m, 2 | |||||
34 |
★★ The Great Escape
Climb directly into Escape without bridging. FA: Mike Weeks, 1998 | 28 | 20m, 4 | |||||
35 |
★★ Escape & Enter
The obvious link of Escape start into the last half of Break and Enter. Start as for Escape (original bridging start), then break right and power up through the final boulder problem of B&E. Short, but consistently powerful climbing to the very last move. The route grade is open for debate given it’s basically a V7/8. | 27 | 16m, 1 | |||||
36 |
★★★ Break & Enter
Up The Great Escape to half height, then R and up to lower offs. FA: Nathan Hoette, 2002 | 29 | 20m | |||||
37 |
★ Spasm Squeeze
Climb the chasm right of Spasm by following a finger crack on the left wall which leads up and right through a squeeze. Top out on the road side of Uncle Charlie's via some juggy wide chimneying. Walk off over the chockstone to the Pharos. Protectable, but a pretty tight fit with a harness. FA: Unknown | 10 | 25m |
1.1.4. Front Wall and West Face 40 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -36.753485, 141.841277
description
Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Pharos Area
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Ship of Fools
Awful. It has been repeated and others should spare themselves the experience. Start: Start 15 metres left of 'Oceanoid'. It's supposed to be 1 metre right of all of the mank but it's hard to tell the difference between that and the climb. There's a low roof above a slab.
FA: Dave Gairns & Chris Baxter (alt), 1987 | 16 R | 40m, 2 | |||||
2 |
Shipboard Romance
The start shared with Ship Of Fools is not good but things appear to improve after that. They would want to. Start: Start as for Ship Of Fools.
FA: Chris Baxter & Dave Gairns (alt), 1987 | 19 | 40m, 3 | |||||
3 |
Damned Whores and God's Police
Start: Start 2 metres left of 'Transatlantic Crossing', 10 metres left of 'Oceanoid'.
FA: Maureen Gallagher & Karen Strojek, 1984 | 19 | 40m, 2 | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
4 |
★★ Transatlantic Crossing
Start: Start 8 metres left of 'Oceanoid', 1 metre right of the lowest part of the buttress, below corner leading to overhang.
FA: Hugh Foxcroft & Dave Gairns (alt), 1980 | 18 | 40m, 2 | |||||
5 |
Rainbow Warrior
Start: Start as for 'Transatlantic Crossing', 8 metres left of 'Oceanoid'.
FA: Chris Baxter & Charlie Creese (alt), 1985 | 21 | 40m, 2 | |||||
6 |
★ Voyage of the Damned
Quite good. Originally done in two pitches but belay stances are poor so better done as one. Start: Start 6 metres left of 'Oceanoid', 2 metres right of 'Transatlantic Crossing', at short right-slanting orange corner. FA: Chris Baxter & Charlie Creese (alt), 2000 | 20 | 46m | |||||
7 |
Rearranging Deckchairs
You have to squeeze them in. Pretty contrived and has some loose blocks. Start: Start at small rib just right of Voyage Of The Damned.
FA: Kieran Loughran & James Falla (alt), 1986 | 20 R | 45m, 2 | |||||
8 |
★★ Halfway Damned
This is a good pitch. It may differ a little from the original route of 'Halfway Handsome' but it is difficult to say by how much. Start: Start at the slabby corner 3 metres left of 'Oceanoid'. Can Rap back down with a 70m rope | 19 | 35m | |||||
9 |
Halfway Handsome
Great route. The original write-up has caused some confusion and given rise to the "Halfway Damned" variant. Start: Start at the slabby corner 3 metres left of 'Oceanoid'. FA: Keith Egerton, Jane Wilkinson & Peter Woodfield, 1983 | 21 | 45m | |||||
10 |
★★ Raise the Titanic
Best done as a single mega-pitch although a semi0hanging belay can be had in "Oceanoid". Start: Start 1 metre left of "Oceanoid". FA: Eric Jones & Chris Baxter (alt), 1986 | 21 | 52m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
11 |
★★★ Oceanoid
Fantastic climb. The original route climbed the first pitch of 'Courage' until above the grotty overhang and then traversed left. The route as described is vastly better. Start: Below the inset corner in recessed bay behind large Callitris pine.
FA: Glenn Tempest & Mark Shelton, 1976 FA: Glenn Tempest & Keith Egerton, 1976 | 17 | 75m, 2 | |||||
12 |
Courage
The left hand corner to the ledge below Aftermath, past some rotton rock and a lot of bird poo. Reverse the traverse of Jezebel to get off. FA: Roland Pauligk & Dick Laurence (1 aid), 1969 | 19 | 42m | |||||
13 |
★ Carlton
An easier version of 'Courage'. Start: The right-hand inset corner. FA: Peter Canning, 1969 | 17 | 42m | |||||
14 |
Carlton Variant Start
looks quite daunting for the grade. FA: John Chapman & Peter Watson, 1976 | 17 | 42m | |||||
15 |
★★★ Sport Climb This You Bastards
Graunchy roof-crack at left end of terrace that Oceanoid Pitch 1 finishes at. FA: James Falla & Jon Bassindale, 1991 | 18 | 35m | |||||
16 |
Trenchsetter
Looking from the ground, there are three overhanging noses high on the left, pitch 2 takes the middle one. Finishing up 'Cold Storage' makes a good finish, but the gear on it is as bad as the guide suggests. Start: Starts at the left end of the half way ledge on 'Oceanoid', right of the first nose with 'Sport Climb This You Bastards'.
FA: Wendy Eden & Mike Raine, 2004 | 22 | 30m, 2 | |||||
17 |
★ Left Side of the Ocean
This is an OK alternative to second ptich of "Oceanoid" if you've been here before. Start: Start as for pitch 2 of "Oceanoid" Climb initial bulge then head up right to a chalked-up horizontal. Mantle onto the orange wall and continue up slab keeping left of Oceanoid. Finish just left of the bottomless corner. FA: Glenn Tempest & Phillip Armstrong, 1979 | 18 | 35m | |||||
18 |
★★ Close to the Edge
Traversing similar territory as the excellent 'Trinity Wall', this route is not as sustained as its neighbour below, but provides similar bowel churning exposure. Start as for 'Left Side Of The Ocean', and follow this to join 'Oceanoid' P2. A few metres before the chimney of 'Oceanoid', find the line that traverses right on poor feet. The pitch passes the 'Aftermath' double bolt belay, soon reaching easier territory. FA: Glenn Tempest & Keith Egerton, 1976 | 20 | 38m | |||||
19 |
★★★ Trinity Wall
Outrageous traverse. Take lots of slings, double ropes if you have them and a solid second. Start as for second pitch of "Oceanoid". Once traversing right, keep going directly right, towards white hanging corner. There is a line of chalked holds higher up leading you to try and reverse the crux of Atlantis. Resist the temptation to go there. FA: Chris Shepherd & Jim Thomas, 1982 | 21 | 30m | |||||
20 |
★ The Bradford Lads
Greasy, flaring crack leading to steep wall. Start: Start at the crack leading to the white-marbled corner. FA: Glenn Tempest & Marty Beare, 1983 | 25 | 55m | |||||
21 |
★ Atlantis
A dramatic outing with a desperate bouldery start that is strenuous to protect. It was originally climbed with a massive diversion out left into "Oceanoid". Start: Start right of "The Bradford lads" at the left of 2 weaknesses through the huge roof.
FA: Glenn Tempest & Kevin Lindorff via a big diversion out left. First pitch as described : Matt Rawlinson, 1977 | 23 | 75m, 2 | |||||
22 |
★ Dead Americans
Wild roofing country with a dangerous start that can be avoided by starting up either of "Atlantis" or "Aftermath". Start: Belay as for the start of "Atlantis" FA: Chris Shepherd, 1982 | 25 R | 25m | |||||
23 |
★★★ Aftermath
An overdose of overhang, originally done as a post-exam celebration. Starts off the left end of the niche paste some rusty fixed micro wires. Try and place something better for the goey start with potential fall onto ledge. After initial bulge, head left and into TW before left again to bolt and exciting finish.Rap anchor. Start: The right-hand weakness through the overhang, right of "Atlantis" FA: Peter McKeand & Gordon Talbett (all aid), 1969 | 25 R | 30m, 1 | |||||
24 |
★ Aerial Boundaries
The bulge right of "Aftermath", over roof past bolt to "Trinity wall" anchor. FA: Scott Camps & Alistair Mark, 1989 | 26 | 15m, 1 | |||||
25 |
A Night of Heavy Drinking
Start: Start on ledge right of 'Aftermath' where the line of 'Five Fingered Mary' cuts through.
FA: Tony Dignan & Greg Child, 1987 | 22 | 60m, 2 | |||||
26 |
★ Jezebel
A wandering route that takes in some impressive country even if the climbing itself is not brilliant. Start: Start as for "Hurricane Lamp Cracks".
Seeing as you've come this far, if you are in the mood for adventure, there are another two optional pitches to entertain you ...
FA: Chris Baxter & Darryl Carr, 1967 | 13 | 86m, 3 | |||||
27 |
★★★ Five Fingered Mary
A cliff-splitting weakness that is big on atmosphere but not necessarily enjoyment. The R rating is from the rock, not the gear. It has been known to calve huge blocks with the climber attached so be cautious. A 5 camalot will be appreciated. Start: Start below the huge cleft.
Don't listen to the haters. The last pitch has great gear and is 20. Bring a 6. FA: Pitch 1 : Phillip Stranger & Chris Dewhirst., 1967 FA: Mike Stone, Chris Baxter, Keith Lockwood some aids & variant finish 13., 1974 FA: roof finish : Greg Child & Andrew Thomson, 1976 FA: Baxter & Stone removed the aids in., 1978 | 20 | 110m, 4 | |||||
28 |
Prevarication LeftHand
Start as for Pevarication. Go up and left then traverse right to finish up the prow above the crux of 'Prevarication'. FA: Jon Muir, Maureen Gallagher & Geoff Little, 1985 | 23 | 15m | |||||
29 |
Prevarication
Good start and bold finish but the middle bit is nothing to write home about. Start: Start on the buttress between 'Five Fingered Mary' and 'Hurricane Lamp Cracks' below a crack through an overhang at 8 metres.
FA: Neil Barr & Peter Watling, 1979 | 18 R | 97m, 3 | |||||
30 |
★★ Horus
| 20 | 110m, 3, 1 | |||||
31 |
Cream Between
The wall between Ra and Horus. Led onsight before the bolt was added to the start of Ra. Nice moves and good protection. Worth doing if you are in the neighborhood. FA: Duncan McGregor & Glenn Tempest, 15 Aug 2017 | 21 | 15m, 1 | |||||
32 |
★★ Ra
Pumpy, balancy, and technical.
FA: muki woods, Robert Mudie, Ben Sheppard, Blair Johnston & Patrick McGovern, 8 Oct 2017 | 24 | 30m, 2, 11 | |||||
33 |
★★ Hurricane Lamp Cracks
A fine old classic whose grade seems to be gradually creeping up. Used to be grade 8 back in the day. Many variations are possible. Start: Start at the chimney 7 metres right of "Five Fingered Mary".
FA: Chris Baxter & Reg Williams, 1965 | 12 | 120m, 5 | |||||
34 |
The Shipping News
Takes the hanging buttress between 'Hurricane Lamp Cracks' and 'The Shroud'. The overhang on pitch 3 is exciting. Pitch 2 is best avoided while the block is in place. Start as for 'The Shroud'.
FA: Norm Booth, Keith & Tim Lockwood, 2000 | 17 | 68m, 3 | |||||
35 |
Fat Dude
Climb orange nose on right. Start: Start at the first belay of 'Hurricane Lamp Cracks'. FA: Glenn Tempest & Paul Daniels, 1981 | 23 | 30m | |||||
36 |
★★ The Shroud
Another great outing up the front of the Pharos. Start: Start 9 metres right of "Hurricane Lamp Cracks" at the foot of a deep crack.
FA: Unknown, 1965 | 10 | 120m, 4 | |||||
37 |
Samos
The line right of 'The Shroud' and left of 'Spiral Staircase'. The original line of 'Spiral Staircase' went somewhere about the first pitch of this. The second pitch traversed off below the roofs to the line that is climbed now. Apparently originally climbed in the 1960s by Rob Taylor, who placed the pin. Start: Start on the North east shoulder of the Pharos right of TS.
FA: Pritchard & Con Frances, 1996 | 10 | 110m, 4 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
West Face | ||||||||
39 |
★★ Spiral Staircase
Start: Instead of going up to the front, follow the track around and up onto the north shoulder of the Pharos. Start at a low-angled, blunt spur just left of a vegetated gully.
FA: Greg Lovejoy & Steve Craddock, 1963 | 8 | 100m, 4 | |||||
40 |
★★ Throwim way leg
If you only scare yourself on one route this year, make this the one. A fantastically scary (but safe) through a large roof a long way up the Pharos. The best grade 16 roof at 'Arapiles'. Start: Start from the right hand end of the large ledge at the end of Spiral Staircase's 2nd pitch beneath a crack through a roof. There used to be a 'map of Italy' hanging down, but that's gone.
FA: Kieran Loughran & Greg Pritchard, 1999 | 17 | 30m, 3 | |||||
41 |
Kirsty and Jo's Climb
Start: Scramble up slab of rock right of 'Spiral Staircase' to steeper rock.
FA: Kirsty Hamilton, Jo Hofmann. Pitch 1 as described : Louise Shepherd & Deniis Kemp., 1990 | 19 R | 45m, 2 |
1.1.5. Back Wall 30 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -36.753879, 141.840667
description
Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Pharos Area
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Riot or Wrong
Left line on little wall 15 metres down and left of the start of 'Lamplighter'. Has been done on trad, now has two bolts and maybe you clip the first bolt of Raptures of the Steep FA: Matthew Brooks & Josh Holko, 1992 | 23 | 9m, 2 | |||||
2 |
★ Raptures of the Steep
Right-hand line on little wall with a rusty carrot. Used to have a fixed pin and two bolts but has now been rebolted. Steep thuggery to awkward topout. Now has 4RBs and a DRB lower off. FA: Peter Stebbins, 1991 | 24 | 9m, 4 | |||||
3 |
Walk Like An Egyptian
Start on the Back Wall of Pharos, 4m down and left of “The North East Ridge of the Pharos”. Offers the easiest access to the “Tennis Court”.
FA: Pete Holmes, Gabriel Holmes, Tex Proctor & Myles O'Dolan, 2 Apr 2016 | 4 | 43m, 3 | |||||
4 |
The North-East Ridge of the Pharos
Start: Start just left of 'Lamplighter' at slick, wide, left-leaning crack.
FA: Jeremy Boreham & Glenn Tempest (alt), 1980 | 18 | 82m, 3 | |||||
5 |
★ A Bum Full Of Fists
Originally trad, and originally started up the wide groove just left of Braindrops. When the route was sent into Argus the route name was rejected and thus never recorded. The bolts, lower-off, and direct start were added by Geoff Little in 2018. From the ledge 12m up Lamplighter, 4m left of Braindrops. Up shallow right-facing corner past RB (20) to ledge. There's a stick clip on the ledge to clip the next bolt safely (please leave the stick there), then pull through roof seam and continue up wall past three more rings to a lower off (17m to ledge, 25m to ground). FA: Geoff Little & Tony Dignan, 1979 | 24 | 17m, 5 | |||||
6 |
★★ Braindrops
Excellent steep jamming. New anchor installed towards the end of pitch 1 (off left of Lamplighter belay ledge, tries but fails to be out of sight of Lamplighter, and may need a leaver 'biner), 24m to ground. Start from ledge 12m up "Lamplighter", below steep flake on left wall. If you belay the crux from the ground, rope stretch brings a ledgefall more into play, which is manageable if you plug more gear.
FA: Glenn Tempest, Jeremy Boreham & Rod Young., 1977 FA: Final pitch : Paul Deacon & Clive Curson, 2000 | 21 | 2 | |||||
7 |
★ The Crouded Hurricane Staircase
A nice alternative for when the final pitch of Hurricane Lamp Cracks, The Shroud, and Spiral Staircase is too busy or too sunny. From the Tennis Court, walk around right, delicately around the arete (staying on belay probably advisable) to a large ledge where Braindrops P1 ends. Climb the middle of the right-hand wall, staying well right of the deep split that Spiral Staircase would have stepped over. When the wall becomes vertical, stay left for the easiest line, or move right towards Lady Dihedral to make it a few grades harder. Tops out at the summit. FA: Dave Scarlett & Camilla Kasker, 26 Aug 2018 | 10 | 40m | |||||
8 |
★ Lady Dihedral
A good alternative finish to "Lamplighter". It originally had it's own second pitch, diverging left from "Lamplighter" after 8 metres, but it was fairly worthless. Start: Start at the second belay of "Lamplighter". FA: Greg Garnham, Chris Baxter & Paul Danials, 1981 | 15 | 78m, 3 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
9 |
★★★ Lamplighter
An excellent climb tiptoeing its way up the back wall with lashing of exposure. Provides some relief from the sun until late afternoon. Start: Start on a ledge down low on the left where an obvious ramp leads up right.
FA: 1965 | 14 | 78m, 3 | |||||
10 |
★ sanitize review
Start: Start at a flake 19 metres right of 'Lamplighter'.
FA: Glenn Tempest & Seamus Brennan, 1981 | 21 | 60m, 3 | |||||
11 |
★ Parallels
Another girdle of the back wall of the Pharos taking the next horizontal line above 'Judgement Day'. Start: Start in 'Lamplighter' at the left end of the break.
FA: Pitch 1: Glenn Tempest, Seamus Brennan. Full route : Kim Carrigan & Chris Shepherd, 1981 | 25 | 50m, 3 | |||||
12 |
★★★ Judgement Day
A superb rising traverse with some very balancy moves which also gives the seconder a good mental workout. Shares the start and most of pitch one, with 'Lamplighter'.
Rap back to ground from DRRB at top of P3. FA: Chris Baxter & Chris Dewhirst (2 aids), 1973 | 19 | 67m, 3, 1 | |||||
13 |
★★★ Slopin' Sleazin'
Pure face climbing funkness. Originally graded 25 and worked on via some very dubious gear. Climbs the crazy groove 10m R of Lamplighter past 4 ringbolts to a DRB anchor. Super technical and sustained, with a variety of options available for undertaking the crux, none of them particularly a giveaway! Unconventional and classic moves make this one of the best routes at Arapiles. FA: Mike Law, 1983 | 28 | 15m, 4 | |||||
14 |
★★ Open Season
Exposed and daring with a run-out second pitch in exciting territory. Start: Start as for "Second Coming"
FA: Mark Moorhead & Ian Anger, 1980 | 24 | 58m, 2, 1 | |||||
15 |
★★ Breaking Glass
Good, but most people will aim to do 'Open Season' instead. Start: Start as for 'The Second Coming'.
FA: Glenn Tempest & Lincoln Shepherd, 1981 | 22 | 40m, 2 | |||||
16 |
★★ Come Again
Climb the 1st pitch of Second Coming until you encounter a hanging nose about 4m shy of the belay. Step left and boulder into a tiny corner before moving up to pass a small overlap which can be climbed direct or on its left. Slabby moves follow before a final easy crack leads to the anchors for open season. 'Small' RP's and small cams protect the moves above Second Coming however placing them on lead is a tad pokey and pumpy - you have been warned! FA: Ingvar Lidman & Muki Woods, 2009 | 23 R | 30m | |||||
17 |
★★ The Second Coming
One of the best 22s at Araps. Start immediately L of Kingdom Come.
FA: Andrew Thompson & Ken Wilkinson, 1976 | 22 | 57m, 2 | |||||
18 |
★ Raspberries
Hopelessly contrived even though it's actually a direct version of The Second Coming P1. There's logic to it but in practice it's all too close to both Second Coming and Kingdom Come. Climb Second Coming until the move L on to the infamous mantle bulge. Instead go straight up to the Judgement Day traverse. From there, continue straight up, trying very hard not to go L into Second Coming, or R into Kingdom Come until you meet the final R-wards traverse of Second Coming P1. Cross this and head straight up through another steep section to easier ground near Lamplighter P3. This and Come Again could easily be linked together into a (scary) route that is more independent and logical than either. FA: Glenn Tempest & Greg Garnham, 1981 | 23 R | 42m | |||||
19 |
★★ Kingdom Come
An old-fashioned line that rewards good technique and punishes thrashing. Start below the major V-groove splitting the back of the Pharos. Described in 3 pitches but best done in 2 pitches now that there are bolted anchors at 20m and at the top.
FA: John Moore, Chris Dewhirst (several aids, rests). Aid was prgressively eliminated by Chris Dewhirst, Roger Aldrett & John Nitschke., 1966 | 20 | 45m, 3 | |||||
20 |
★★ Me Timbers
Makes an alternative Last pitch to Shivers or a second pitch to Give Me Convenience Or Give Me Death. Start from the anchors of GMCoGMD and follow Shivers for a couple of moves heading towards the first bolt (Small cam useful). Hard moves past the bolt to the second bolt, Traverse slightly left and up into the pod and follow this directly up to the top. FFA: adam demmert & Cienfuegos Reese Madden, 4 Feb 2017 | 25 | 25m, 2 | |||||
21 |
★★ Shivers
A complex route up a great bit of rock. Start: Start as for "Kingdom come".
FA: Chris Shpeherd did second pitch with Malcolm Matheson & then the full route with Mark Moorhead., 1978 | 23 | 55m, 2 | |||||
22 |
★★ Shivers/Trojan
A great multipitch up the back of the Pharos at 22 | 22 | 60m, 3 | |||||
23 |
★★ Give Me Convenience or Give Me Death
Climb 'Shivers' until the 'Judgement Day' traverse line, then head straight up through the roof (bolt) and follow the seam, joining Shivers' 2nd pitch near the top. Start: Start as for 'Shivers'. FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2005 | 28 | 30m, 3 | |||||
24 |
★★★ Treat 'em Mean, Keep 'em Keen
Originally bolted by Chris Shepherd, this link up was pointed out to Zac by Ingvar Lidman who promptly bagged the first ascent. Originally a sandbag at 29 ("more like 30 or 31," Zac) apparently a previously unused hold and an easier sequence has been found that makes it "only" 29. Start up Masada, before veering L past a couple of bolts and some hard compression moves (crux) at half height. to the Judgement Day traverse. Finish through crux of Give Me Convenience or Give Me Death. FA: Zac Vertrees | 29 | 30m, 4 | |||||
25 |
★★★ Masada
Once considered the hardest route in the country when introduced by Carrigan as Australia's first grade 30. Now considered a tad easier by modern standards. Start as for 'Trojan' and at its crux move left across the corner and onto the exposed arete. Take some deep breaths then get fired up for an intensely fingery experience above the flared layback, not to mention some acute footwork. At the top of the corner, make a move left to a jug and gain the finishing crack. A final tricky exit leads to the belay. FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984 | 29 | 28m, 1 | |||||
26 |
Muchada
The direct finish to 'Masada'. Instead of branching out left at the top of the groove, continue straight up through another boulder problem (as if the original crux wasn't enough!) FA: Nick White, 2000 | 29 | 25m, 2 | |||||
27 |
Beware of Greeks Bearing Gifts
Close Project, Starts from Trojans 2nd belay and heads up blank wall past 1 bolt Set: adam demmert, 2018 | 1 | ||||||
28 |
★★★ Trojan
A brilliant first pitch and the top pitch is pretty good as well, but is much easier. Many people do just the first pitch and do the upper pitches as a finish to Dazed And Confused. Louise Shepherd's impressive 1981 or 1982 onsight was the first Aussie female ascent at this grade.
FA: John Moore put the route up in two stages. Pitch 1 :. Pitch 2, 3 : with Chris Dewhirst & Alec Campbell, 1966 | 25 | 86m, 3, 2 | |||||
29 |
Mighty Mouse
Start R of Trojan below boulder. Up and traverse R and up. Direct start (bolted by Carrigan decades ago) remains unclimbed. FA: Nathan Hoette | 31 | 15m | |||||
30 |
Eastern Front
A girdle of the south face with old pegs and crumbly rock. The retro-bolt of Mind Arthritis 's 5th bolt has replaced a peg on this route. Start: Start at the second belay of 'Trojan'. FA: Glenn Tempest & Bob Killip, 1982 | 22 | 30m |
1.1.6. South Face 13 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -36.753925, 141.841213
description
Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Pharos Area
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Mental Debris
Intimidating finale. The first pitch was retro-bolted and de-bolted, but currently has 1 FH. Start on top of the great flake that leans against the south corner of the Pharos.
FA: Pitch 1 : Mark Moorhead, Chris Shepherd. Full climb : Moorhead & Roddy McKenzie, 1980 | 24 R | 40m, 3, 1 | |||||
2 |
★ Arms Race
A baffling crux combined with gut-wrenching exposure. Start from the top of the second pitch of "Trojan". FA: Glenn Tempest & Paul Daniels, 1982 | 23 | 30m, 1 | |||||
3 |
★★ Dazed and Confused
A good stylish pitch. The initial moves are committing and require lots of small wires. And some of the first holds are loose so check what you're pulling on. Combining this with the upper pitches of "Trojan" makes for a very good grade 21 climb. Start at the top of the huge flake. FA: Kevin Lindorff & Glenn Tempest, 1977 | 20 R | 20m | |||||
4 |
No Room for the Weak
Start as for Dazed And Confused then move right and directly up wall past some very loose flakes, finishing up the fine corner-ramp to ledge. FA: Glenn Tempest & Paul Daniels, 1982 | 20 R | 20m | |||||
5 |
Nuclear Free
Useless.
FA: Glenn Tempest & Kevin Lindorff (alt), 1978 | 22 R | 65m, 3 | |||||
6 |
Nuclear Free Direct Finish
This is better but it's really a climb in its own right. Start at the first belay of Nuclear Free, on the traverse ledge. FA: Kevin Lindorff & Simon Purnell, 1979 | 22 | 30m | |||||
7 |
★ RSI
The finger shredding line starting just left of the start to 'Mind Arthritis', then taking the very bouldery wall above it. 2 hard 2-move boulder problems with a virtual sit down rest between them mars a route with one of the best positions at Arapiles. FA: Kim Carrigan, 2000 | 29 | 30m | |||||
8 |
★★★ Mind Arthritis
An outstanding climb taking the major line on the South Face. Quite finger intensive and very exposed. Originally climbed with a piton as the last gear - though this has now somewhat controversially been replaced with a bolt. A small cam can be placed in the top runout. FA: Chris Shepherd, 1985 | 27 | 25m, 5 | |||||
9 |
★★ Delirium Tremens
Technically 23 but a runout above the roof has led to the grade being inflated. A great outing on the South Face, starting off the ledge of the finish to Dazed and Confused. Worth noting that this was established onsight by the first ascentionist. FA: Kevin Lindorff, 1979 | 24 R | 30m | |||||
10 |
★ Senile Dementia
Starts as for Delirium Tremens but at the roof breaks right and traverse a couple of metres before launching straight up the face. Reportedly a tad runout in places, and rarely repeated. FA: Kim Carrigan, 1985 | 27 | 35m | |||||
11 |
Project
FA: Geordie Webb | 40m, 5 | ||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
12 |
★ Gunk In The Pimms
Quite good climbing on the lower south-east face, the next little face up the hill from the Punks wall. Takes the face and then left into the prominent hanging corner. Double ropes help. Start on a small ledge below the middle of the face. Up face a few moves then move right into left-leading diagonal and up to ledge. Traverse left, staying low, to below hanging corner. Move up to corner and then up corner/ramp a ways before finishing straight up to huge boulder. FA: Kieran Loughran & Meg Sleeman., 2000 | 17 | 30m | |||||
13 |
Punts On A Whim
Start on the south side of The Pharos, down right of Gunk In The Pimms, at the base of the gullybetweene Uncle Charlie and The Pharos. Up diagonal corner on arête to ledge then left and finish up Gunk in the Pimms. FA: Keith Lockwood, Kieran Loughran & Norm Booth, 7 May 2016 | 14 | 40m |
1.1.7. The French Crack Area 9 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
description
Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Pharos Area
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Key hole Scramble
Exit the key hole and climb down past rappel station, sticking to easy terrain. | 6 | 30m | |||
2 |
Cold Storage
The wall 2 metres left of 'French Crack' is very poorly protected. FA: Mark Moorhead & Chris Shepherd, 1980 | 21 | 11m | |||
3 |
★★ French Crack
The lovely thin crack. FA: John Moore, Alec Campbell & Chris Dewhirst, 1966 | 17 | 11m | |||
4 |
★ French Crack P2
Instead of scrambling up to the top of Pharos, climb straight up from the DBB of FC. Plenty of gear and good belay on top around a boulder | 12 | 20m | |||
5 |
★ The Daunting Slither
Offwidth 5 meters right of French Crack. Part of the old descent route, usually abseiled but not always. | 13 | 8m | |||
6 |
★ Rommel
The flake at the left end of the south-east facing wall just above and right of "French Crack" FA: Jeremy Boreham & Rod Young, 1978 | 19 | 15m | |||
7 |
Sostratus Cnidius
Wall between 'Rommel' and 'Trespassers Prosecuted'. FA: Paul Deacon & Clive Curson, 1990 | 21 | 12m, 2 | |||
8 |
Trespassers Prosecuted
Short cracked overhang 2 metres right of "Rommel". FA: Glenn Tempest & Kevin Lindorff, 1978 | 22 | 15m | |||
9 |
French Tennis
Jeu do paume. Combined with 'Key hole Scramble', a useful access to or egress from the Tennis Court. Start on the ledge below 'French Crack'. Traverse right into the bay ('Five Fingered Mary') to an exposed step around and up the rib. Possible belay at chains ('Horus') to reduce rope drag. Scramble onto the Tennis Court. FA: | 3 | 30m |
1.2. Pharos Gully 169 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -36.753801, 141.838856
description
Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Pharos Gully Area
1.2.1. Vanoise Area 41 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -36.754106, 141.840299
description
Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Pharos Gully Area
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Reusables
Even shorter corner L of SN, then follow front of buttress to the top. Great route for kids. FA: Goshen Watts & Asher, Mar 2018 | 4 | 15m | |||||
2 |
★ Shitty Nappies
Short corner and arete on left side of wall, starting 2 metres left of "Party Tricks". A bit contrived up high. FA: Campbell Mercer & Julie Nitschke, 1992 | 12 | 15m | |||||
3 |
★ Party Tricks
Face 3 metres left of the seam of "I Can't Breathe" to undercling, then up and right to finish up "I Can't Breathe". FA: Rob Allen & Evab Bieske, 2000 | 23 | 15m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
4 |
★ I Can't Breathe
Attractive seam up middle of buttress opposite "Vanoise". There is good gear if you can hang on long enough to place it. Double ropes can be advantageous on this route FA: Chris Shepherd, 1982 | 25 | 15m | |||||
5 |
★ The Venus Trap
Quite a nice, subtle climb. Start up the flake on the left wall of the chimney-gully right of I Can't Breathe for 3 metres then go diagonally left to finish up I Can't Breathe FA: Campbell Mercer & Julie Nitschke, 1992 | 15 | 15m | |||||
6 |
★ Cranky Babies
Flake on the left side of the chimney-gully just right of "I Can't Breathe" continuing straight up where "The Venus Trap" moves off left. FA: Cathy Blamey & Chris Shepherd, 1982 | 20 | 12m | |||||
7 |
★ Romper Room
Easy chimney immediately right of "Cranky Babies", finishing up right wall. FA: Mike & Jenny Ashton, 1987 | 5 | 15m | |||||
8 |
Beer, Product of Australia
The right arete of "Romper Room" is a bit runout. FA: Jon Muir (solo), 1993 | 16 R | 10m | |||||
9 |
★ Lights in the Sky
Deep crack 2 metres right of "Romper Room". Take big gear, knee pads and crack gloves. FA: Mike & Jenny Ashton, 1987 | 12 | 15m | |||||
10 |
★ Bites in the Pie
Borderline for a star but an interesting jamming experience. The crack right of "Lights In The Sky" FA: Greg Pritchard & Jon Muir, 1993 | 12 | 10m | |||||
11 |
R.I.P. Sludge
This sits almost directly above "Defector" on Ministry Wall; combining the two could be quite nice. Otherwise, to get to the start, scramble up the descent route on the left side of the Vanoise Wall and go left a little or come down from the top. Central line up little brown tombstone-shaped buttress above and left of descent route. FA: Greg Pritchard, Paul Hoskins, Suzie Frost & Dave Clarke, 1993 | 11 | 10m | |||||
12 |
Brushless
Still surprisingly clean. Climb cleanish streak about 15 metres left of the little hanging corner at the left end of the long roof-line on Vanoise Wall. FA: Robin Miller (solo), 1984 | 15 | 15m | |||||
13 |
Beat Route
Onto small ledge and up shallow, right-facing corner to ledge below main overhang. Step left and up. Start: 25 metres left of "Vanoise". FA: Chris Baxter, Joy Fletcher & Greg Garnham, 1982 | 13 | 40m | |||||
14 |
The Peasants are Revolting
A harder finish to "Beat Route". Up this to roof and pull over on brittle holds to right. FA: Robin Miller (solo), 1982 | 17 | 40m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
15 |
Tamesis
Up crack for 7 metres, step left and go up to and over high roofline. Start: Start at crack 20 metres left of "Vanoise". FA: Chris Dewhirst & Bruno Zielke, 1969 | 14 | 42m | |||||
16 |
★ Greenwich Reach
A good, varied pitch with an exciting steep finish that was originally dirty, poorly protected and with significant loose blocks. Now cleaned up and with a couple of tweaks to avoid runouts and loose blocks as well as a rap anchor. The thin crack section is a little contrived but keeps the line flowing. Start as for Tamesis, the first crack system left of Vanoise. Up the crack (originally climbed poorly protected face 2m to right) and at about 7 metres, instead of stepping left into the obvious continuation, follow thin cracks up the face to little step in the roofline. Swing right through this step (originally moved up left into next corner over dangerous blocks). Easily up for next 5 or 6 metres to twin cracks through top bulge. Initially up right-hand edge of right-hand crack then finish steeply between the cracks to anchor. 30m rappel. Be careful with the rap – new 60m ropes doubled reached the ground with about half a metre to spare whereas an old 60m doubled was about a metre off the ground. Don’t rap or get lowered off the end of the rope. FA: Kieran Loughran & Keith Lockwood (alt), 1995 | 17 | 30m | |||||
17 |
Goodbye Cool World
Start up Greenwich Reach for 3-4m until it is possible to diagonal across right to break in the roof. Through roof, up to next and through it then diagonal left up to anchor on Greenwich Reach. Gear at 2nd roof a little iffy. FA: Louise Sheperd, Ying Ying He & Wendy Eden, 26 Nov 2016 | 21 | 32m | |||||
18 |
★ The Beat Goes On
A bit mossy these days. 5 metres left of The British Beat and about 4 metres right of Tamesis is a rusty carrot down low. Up past this to roof which is easy and leads to the Labouring The Point anchor. FA: Mike Law & Steve Howden, 1982 | 22 | 50m, 1 | |||||
19 |
★★ The British Beat
Lovely, technical thin face. Be careful not to fall off clipping the second bolt. Start: 4 metres left of the 'Vanoise' corner. Smooth orange wall to rap chain. (Worthless variant start goes up lichenous streak on right to join route below 2nd bolt Jamie Holding, Rosemary Weaver 16-05-1990) FA: Glenn Tempest & Paul Hoskins, 1981 | 21 | 15m, 2 | |||||
20 |
★★ Vanoise Direct Start
A worthwhile alternative start making Vanoise a more sustained and independent line. Start 3 metres left of the shared crack start with Labouring the Point, below a small V crack. Climb to V crack and follow weaknesses to where Vanoise and Labouring the Point diverge then finish as top of Vanoise. FA: Hywel Rowlands & Grace Went, 8 Oct 2021 | 20 | 20m | |||||
21 |
★★ Vanoise
Really interesting corner on the right side of the smooth orange face. It gets harder as it arches over further to the left to chain under roof. The climb originally continued to top of cliff but it's not worth it so no-one bothers. FA: Bruno Zielke & Chris Dewhirst, 1969 | 20 | 20m | |||||
22 |
★ Labouring the Point
The original climb followed the upper roof-line all the way left until it ends at a short corner. An amusing concept that no-one can be bothered repeating. Stick to the first pitch as described. FA: Mike Law & kim Carrigan, 1975 | 16 | 90m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
23 |
Strange Tails
Follow buttress all the way, taking crux bulge on right via obvious loose flake. Start: Between 'Vanoise' and 'Agent Orange'. FA: Jon Muir & Greg Pritchard, 1993 | 19 R | 30m | |||||
24 |
★★ Secret Agent Orange
Straightens out Agent Orange. At the roof corner, step left then up and into AO. FA: Rhys Boyar, 27 Jan 2019 | 17 | ||||||
25 |
★★ Agent Orange
Conjures up an image of Chris Baxter clutching a bush and screaming as he hurtles down "Vanoise". The little flake just right of the initial corner has also been climbed at 19. Start: At small, right-facing corner 3 metres right of "Vanoise". Rap chains. FA: Chris Baxter & Paul Daniels, 1981 | 15 | 25m | |||||
26 |
★ Eye Spy
Takes the unlikely bulging wall between Agent Orange and West Coast Dogma. Start up wall and thin flake 2m right of AO (had been climbed previously) to join AO at its roof. When AO veers back left, continue straight up from obvious horizontal pocket following an independant line all the way. Gear is adequate. (Another option is to start up AO which makes it about grade 18) FFA: Gareth Llewellin & Jessie Rushbrooke, 22 Nov 2014 | 19 | 30m | |||||
27 |
★ West Coast Dogma
Start at chimney-cleft 10 metres right of "Vanoise". Up line. At small overhang step onto right arete and up steep wall. Abseil as for Agent Orange. FA: Phillip Stranger & Chris Dewhirst, 1967 | 14 | 33m | |||||
28 |
Not Bad for Bunnies
Apparently the grade drops to 16 if you start by bridging 3 metres up 'West Coast Dogma' then reach right into hanging crack to join line. Start between 'West Coast Dogma' and 'Dead Beat Sax' beneath small hanging block. Up to block, right, then into line going left, then straight up shallow crack. Up to bulge which is climbed on right. FA: Jon Muir & Greg Pritchard, 1993 | 22 | 30m | |||||
29 |
Dead Beat Sax
Crack 5 metres right of 'West Coast Dogma'. FA: Phillip Stranger (solo), 1967 | 10 | 30m | |||||
30 |
Beat More Meat
Boulder up to break and the first runners. Continue straight to top. Start: Start 2 metres right of 'Dead Beat Sax' at smooth wall. FA: Mike Law & Doug Fife, 1982 | 22 | 33m | |||||
31 |
Scathed
The "protection" style might appeal to the budding aid climber. Start 2 metres right of 'Beat More Meat' at very thin, almost closed groove. Up groove with micro-wires and Crack'n'Ups (or hand-placed peckers maybe) for token protection. Finish up wall above. FA: Mike Law, Steve Howden & Eddy Ozols, 1982 | 21 | 30m | |||||
32 |
★ Stairway to Heaven
A gentle ramble with spectacular views all the way. Sort of a companion route to Spiral Staircase. The name also derives from the fact that the first ascent team had a combined age of 269, and featured more than 200 years of climbing experience. Starts between West Coast Dogma and Sombrero, where there is an obvious ledge 2m above the ground.
FA: Keith Lockwood, Keith Royce, Bob Ryan (alt leads), Ray Lassman & Miss Given, 16 Apr 2015 | 7 | 90m, 3 | |||||
33 |
Sombrero
Not great. Some distance down right are low-angled mossy faces with ledges in between. Scramble up to deep, right-facing chimney. This is your mission should you choose to accept it. FA: Lloyd Lobbe & Daryl Carr, 1967 | 8 | 84m | |||||
34 |
Default
The first ascent party were not fans. Left-facing flake right of Sombrero. FA: Mark Shelton, Bill Andrews & Peter Watling, 1976 | 13 | 42m | |||||
35 |
Robinson Crusoe
The wall right of Sombrero has been dubbed Treasure Island - I have my doubts. Climb the slab and steep wall midway between Sombrero and South Pacific. Continue easily, then finish steeply up the centre of the headwall left of South Pacific. FA: Keith Lockwood & Kurt Pitts, 5 Apr 2015 | 14 | 35m | |||||
36 |
South Pacific
The "obvious" right-facing corner on the wall right of Sombrero, then the left of twin lines up the headwall. FA: Kurt Pitts & Keith Lockwood, 5 Apr 2015 | 7 | 35m | |||||
37 |
Davy Jones Locker
Start up the South Pacific corner, then take the right-hand line past an unusual rock crypt. FA: Keith Lockwood, Kurt Pitts & Hamish Pitts, 5 Apr 2015 | 5 | 35m | |||||
38 |
The Black Pearl
Start by the huge native pine. Sail straight up the central seam, finishing centrally over steepening. Continue easily up the shoulder of the outcrop. FA: Keith Lockwood & Kurt Pitts, 2 Apr 2015 | 13 | 35m | |||||
39 |
Blackbeard
Seam 2m right of The Black Pearl (this seam is left of a short little corner), finishing easily as for The Black Pearl. FA: Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 8 Apr 2015 | 13 | 35m | |||||
40 |
Long John Silver
Best approached by one of the other climbs in the vicinity. Step across the tree-filled gully behind the top of South Pacific etc, follow the weakness in the wall and finish centrally up the juggy tower. FA: Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 8 Apr 2015 | 8 | 30m | |||||
41 |
Pieces of Eight
The easiest slab at Arapiles(?). Could be done as an approach pitch to Long John Silver. Climbs central weakness in the slab around right from Blackbeard. Scramble up to start. Gentle slab split by a juggy crack. FA: Keith Lockwood, Laurie Bennett & Shaun Norman, 21 Apr 2015 | 8 | 18m |
1.2.2. Duck Crag 8 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
description
Short, south-facing overhung orange wall just right of the top of Agent Orange.
Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Pharos Gully Area
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Duck Crack
Little jam-crack on left. FA: Kirsty Hamilton, 1993 | 18 | 6m | |||
2 |
Is Vanya a Duck?
Bold line 3 metres right of 'Duck Crack'. Alternative finish is to diagonal 2 metres right to flake. FA: Paul Hoskins & Greg Pritchard, 1993 | 20 | 8m | |||
3 |
Another One Bites The Duck
Obvious traverse line. FA: Paul Hoskins & Greg Pritchard, 1993 | 18 | 10m | |||
4 |
Duck Addendum
Supposed to be good. From loose block on ground, up to horizontal, step right and up shallow. left-facing corner. FA: Paul Hoskins & Greg Pritchard, 1993 | 18 | 10m | |||
5 |
Anatadaephobia
Fear of being watched by ducks! From block swing right to flake, up. FA: Paul Hoskins & Greg Pritchard, 1993 | 24 | 10m | |||
6 |
Fluffy Duck
Start at big jug down left of 'Anatadaephobia' (place a couple of wires in this for protection). Up to horizontal break FA: Paul Hoskins & Greg Pritchard, 1993 | 23 | 10m | |||
7 |
Home for Tea
These two climbs are on the gentle wall opposite Duck Crag, directly below a slackline launch site. Easily approached via the disabled lookout. Home for Tea is an obvious finish to Duck up the Stairs. Crack on the wall opposite the northern edge of Duck Crag. The crack leads to a gentle slab, trending left to the top. FA: Keith Lockwood, Norm Booth & Kieran Loughran, 8 Sep 2018 | 12 | 15m | |||
8 |
Back by Three
Take the clean orange slab above the southern edge of Duck Crag, finishing on the left side of the summit block. FA: Kieran Loughran, Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 8 Sep 2018 | 7 | 15m |
1.2.3. Baker's Wall 15 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -36.754269, 141.839449
description
The impressive-looking orange wall halfway up the left side of Pharos Gully is not as good as it looks but it's still not too bad.
Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Pharos Gully Area
approach
It's most easily approached from above via the disabled lookout. From beneath go left below the Voidoid Pinnacle.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Stale Bread
The left one. FA: Geordie Webb & Wendy Eden, 14 Jan 2017 | 16 | 15m | |||||
2 |
Soggy Muffin
A few metres left of Lou Will be Pissed are two flake lines. This is the right one. Not the best routes in the world but not really any worse than the other route routes on the wall. FA: Wendy Eden & Geordie Webb, 14 Jan 2017 | 14 | 15m | |||||
3 |
Middle Aged Nathan
Straight up to and through obvious weakness between Soggy Muffin and Lou will be pissed. FA: unknown | 17 | 15m | |||||
4 |
Lou Will Be Pissed
Up breaks then slab left of 'Prendergast' roof. Start: Start about 6 metres left of the 'Prendergast' flake. FA: Greg Pritchard, Paul Hoskins & Suzie Frost, 1993 | 17 | 10m | |||||
5 |
Flabbergast
Good. Wall 4 metres left of Prendergast flake and through roof just left of middle. FA: Greg Pritchard & Paul Hoskins, 1993 | 16 | 10m | |||||
6 |
Prendergast
Layback flake to right end of roof. At roof, traverse left and up. Start: Start at the layback flake 30 metres left of diagonal. FA: Keith Lockwood & Doug Palmen, 1977 | 12 | 15m | |||||
7 |
Dotage
Start: 10 metres right of 'Prendergast', 20 metres left of diagonal is a bulbous hanging nose. Start under the left corner of this. Up slab, over left of 2 obvious loose flakes. Finish up corner. FA: Dave Gairns & Chris Baxter, 1985 | 13 | 20m | |||||
|
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
8 |
★★ Shadow Foxing
Some very good moves on lovely rock. Start below orange hanging nose. Up slab, stepping left around overhang into corner on left side of nose. Now back out right onto nose, pull up steeply then easy ground. FA: Chris & Sue Baxter, 1985 | 16 | 20m | |||||
9 |
Hugh Goes West
Climb flake and wall above. Start: Start below easy right-facing flake 4 metres right of 'Shadow Foxing'. FA: Chris & Sue Baxter, 1985 | 13 | 20m | |||||
10 |
Second Thoughts
Quite sustained and poorly protected. Start 2 metres right of Hugh Goes West. Up to diagonal, then right along horizontal break, up and across to bottomless corner and climb this. FA: Charlie Creese, Chris Baxter & Dave Gairns, 1985 | 18 | 20m | |||||
11 |
Marcia’s Route
A nice corner-crack behind tree leading directly to the foot of Squirrel & Baker's Delight. If only doing this climb, belay on the first ledge and walk off left. FA: Richard Smith, Greg Pritchard & Marcia, 2006 | 14 | 10m | |||||
12 |
★★ Bakers Delight
Lovely looking wall but start (at least) is reachy. Climb the attractive orange wall 4m to the left of Squirrel. Finish up a short handcrack near the top. Rap anchor: 20m to start of climb, 30m to ground. FA: Ingvar Lidman | 20 | 20m | |||||
13 |
Squirrel
Logically done as a two-pitch combo with "Marcia's Route". The initial wall is fingery and tiring to protect: small cams and beware of ledge-fall. Prominent black streak into a chimney-gully is harder than it looks. Descend via Bakers Delight rap. FA: Chris & Sue Baxter, 1985 | 17 | 25m | |||||
14 |
Bakers' Route
Good, bold line. Start 3 metres right of 'Squirrel', below and left of diagonal above roof. Up to roof, traverse right and pull into diagonal. FA: Mike Law (solo), 1982 | 24 R | 15m | |||||
15 |
Load Shooter
Quite good but unbalanced with a bouldery start. Stepped corner right of Bakers' Route, moving left under first roof and up wall. FA: Doug Fife (solo), 1982 | 20 | 10m |
1.2.4. Heckle and Jeckle Area 24 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -36.754392, 141.839054
description
Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Pharos Gully Area
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Jewish Humour
Line 1.5 metres left of 'Hopelessly Obscure'. FA: Greg Pritchard & Kirsty Hamilton, 1993 | 15 | 9m | |||||
2 |
Hopelessly Obscure
Crack through bulge on right side of small face. FA: Bert Levy & Kate Jacobsen, 1990 | 18 | 9m | |||||
3 |
★ Laughing Like A Fat Spider
A typically bold route by Paul. Not much gear on the crux. The route Logical Conclusion (1997) written up recently (2009) by Bert Levy is a repeat of this climb. Start: Start left of 'Fantoochi'. FA: Hoskins & Bride, 1996 | 22 R | 12m | |||||
4 |
★ Fantoochi
Steep seam on orange rock. Step L and do the not-quite-direct-but-better-climbing finish. If you want. Don't let us pressure you. FA: Eddy Ozols, Natalie Green. Finish as described: Eric Jones & Chris Baxter.., 1985 | 20 | 13m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
5 |
Double Decker
Line 2 metres right of 'Fantoochi'. FA: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter & Charlie Creese, 1985 | 17 | 13m | |||||
6 |
★ The Creesed Palm
Climb wall and step right to tiny, left-facing corner which is followed until you can swing right to arete. Up. Start: Start 1 metre right of 'Double Decker'. FA: Chris Baxter, Charlie Creese & Dave Gairns, 1985 | 17 | 14m | |||||
7 |
★ Wok Full of Custard
A neat little climb squeezed between Bed Lag and The Creesed Palm. Originally set as a top rope problem; there is enough gear in the corner to keep things sane. Start up Bed Lag, then move left into the corner on the arete. Small wires protect the run out to the rooflet, then move left to finish up The Creesed Palm. FA: Douglas Hockly FFA: benwiessner, 2 Oct 2021 | 22 | 15m | |||||
8 |
★ Bed Lag
Starts up 'Wogs at the Piles', but instead of breaking right continues straight up the face. At times the gear is small and spaced. FA: Charlie Creese & Robin Miller, 1985 | 21 R | 14m | |||||
9 |
★★ Wogs at the Piles
Previously described as "Good climbing but has some runout moves above not brilliant protection". Circa 2017 two retrobolt were added: one at the start (shared by Bedlag), and another bolt halfway (this has since been removed). Start at the arete of 'Bed Lag' and do a rising traverse through bulge across flakes to right arête. Up and finish slightly left. FA: Charlie Creese, Chris Baxter & Dave Gairns, 1985 | 21 R | 15m | |||||
10 |
★ Derros in the Pines
A contrived direct start to Wogs. Up past a shallow pocket to meet Wogs half way up. FFA: Christopher Glastonbury & adam demmert, 11 Apr 2023 | 24 | 15m | |||||
11 |
★ Uncle Fester
Start as for crack attack then step L around corner to stance (no more bolt?). Up on the L of arete over sus gear to rail, move L and up. FA: Glenn Tempest & Karen tempest, Aug 2015 | 18 | 19m | |||||
12 |
★ Crack Attack
Steep climbing up the corner left of 'Mr Hyde'. FA: Chris Baxter, Charlie Creese & Dave Gairns, 1985 | 17 | 15m | |||||
13 |
★★ Mr Hyde
Good, sustained jam crack up left wall of 'Heckle'. Take a few large cams or hexes. Graded 15 by Mentz & Tempest, Arapiles Selected Climbs Guide Book. FA: Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 1968 | 15 | 15m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
14 |
★ Heckle
The major corner-chimney bounding the left side of the black slab, mainly climbed on the slab. FA: Norm Booth & Murray Taylor, 1968 | 7 | 15m | |||||
15 |
★ Girl Talk
Clean black slab right of 'Heckle'. FA: Robyn Storer & Sue Baxter, 1985 | 9 | 18m | |||||
16 |
★★ Rush of Blood
Well-protected technical climbing low-down leads to a runout finish. Crucial protection in the top half of the climb is provided by an insecure sling; double ropes help. FA: Keith Lockwood, Sue Key & Ed Neve, 1979 | 13 R | 18m | |||||
17 | ★★ Rush of Blood Direct Finish | 13 | 18m | |||||
18 |
Murph Takes the Plunge
Distinct black streak midway between Rush Of 'Blood' and 'Jeckle'. FA: Chris Baxter & Mike Stone, 1985 | 15 | 18m | |||||
19 |
★ Jeckle
The very technical, bouldery start was always a bit of a shock to people expecting a grade 14! The rest of the route is substantially easier. FA: Garry Sudholz & Keith Lockwood, 1968 | 18 | 18m | |||||
20 |
★ Goodbye Gumby
Up flake, at top step right on orange wall and go up slightly right to easier finish. Start: Start at right-facing flake right of 'Jeckle' and before the streak of Clap For Kiwis. FA: Eric Jones & Chris Baxter, 1985 | 18 | 18m | |||||
21 |
★★ Clap for Kiwis
Brushed streak right of 'Jeckle' and left of the diagonal of 'Sheckle'. Now has a bolt on the crux, originally done without. Impressive by Lou. FA: Louise Shepherd & Robin Miller, 1984 | 22 | 18m, 1 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
22 |
Scouting for Boys
Begin up the diagonal, step left at horizontal break and continue up face. Start: Start at the right-leading diagonal on right side of face. FA: Louise Shepherd & Eddie Ozols, 1984 | 22 | 18m | |||||
23 |
Sheckle Indirect Start
Start at the orange corner and inch your way up and right. It appears that some people who have done this route thought they were on Sheckle (grade 13)? Not great gear or climbing. | 20 | ||||||
24 |
★ Sheckle
The right-leading diagonal flake on the right end of the black slab. FA: Mike Law (solo), 1982 | 13 | 18m |
1.2.5. Voidoid Pinnacle 9 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
description
Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Pharos Gully Area
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Unemploid
Arete left of Flights Of Fancy doing first 2 metres left of arete. FA: Paul Hoskins, Greg Pritchard & Phil Wilkins, 1993 | 19 | 15m | |||||
2 |
★★ Jumping for Jugs
Steep and gymnastic good rock good gear. Start: Start as for "Flights of Fancy", clip the first bolt stepping off a big boulder to gain the horizontal break leading left with vague pockets, monkey up to second bolt and good jug, straight up to more gear before moving back right to join FOF then head back left and then up to the top, traversing right along a ledge to gain anchors FA: Muki Woods & Ingvar Lidman, 2009 | 23 | 20m, 2 | |||||
3 |
★★ Jumping for Fancy
The logical bits of Flights of Fancy and Jumping for Jugs if you can't do the dyno of FOF. Up JFJ until you can move back right, and finish up FOF. Fun steep climbing with a thin runout finish (but if you have a decent wing span it feels very contrived to avoid the holds out left) | 24 | 25m, 2 | |||||
4 |
★ Flights of Fancy Direct
Start: Start at crack directly below the lone bolt in the middle of the south face (facing 'Heckle' and Jeckle) and head straight up past big dyno. The original route by Steve Monks traversed right at first break, up arete then back left somewhere at 25. FA: Steve Monks, 1986 | 27 | 20m | |||||
5 |
★ Voidoid
Pull into undercut line and up two left-facing corners, then step right and up. Start: Start around right of Flights Of Fantasy below arete. FA: Eddy Ozols & Colin Reece, 1978 | 19 | 20m | |||||
6 |
★ Totally Foxed!
On the west face is a blank piece of rock capped by a roof. Start 1m L of No Turning Back, passing some horizontal breaks to reach the roof. Crank through the roof to finish up the vertical seam. Gear is not great. FA: Steve Monks & Chris Baxter, 1986 | 22 | 20m | |||||
7 |
★★ No Turning Back
Distinguished line in middle of west wall. FA: Chris Baxter & Dave Gairns, 1985 | 19 | 20m | |||||
8 |
★ Barefoot in the Park
Nice rock, nice moves, brilliant nut pro. With that many superlatives it's gotta be worth a star, right? Start: Start right of 'No Turning Back'. FA: Keith Lockwood & Tim Lockwood, 1995 | 8 | 15m | |||||
9 |
A Walk In The Park
Twin cracks 2 metres right of Barefoot In The Park. FA: Sally Bentley & Eddy Rawlins, 2000 | 7 | 10m |
1.2.6. Huey and Satellites 29 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
description
Good short climbs on the north side of Pharos 'Gully'.
Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Pharos Gully Area
approach
The faces are located on the right-hand (northern) side of the creekbed in Pharos 'Gully'. Walk up the Pharos 'Gully' track until just after the 'Ethereal' buttress a pad leads off left into the creekbed. Follow the creek up until you bump into the Huey wall.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Vapour Trail
Varied and interesting. Start 4m R of Huey. The start has some long reaches protected by adequate gear in horizontals, then up the bottomless V-corner. FA: John Smoothy & Dave Humphries, 1980 | 22 | 15m | |||
2 |
Sanitize review
Not a popular pasttime. Climbing looks good but it's squeezed in. Probably bold like most of Roland's routes. Bottomless right-facing corner then bulge between Vapour Trail and Huey. FA: Roland Foster, 1983 | 23 | 15m | |||
3 |
★★ Huey
This beautiful thin crack is so good it just about rates three stars. Maybe if it was five metres longer? Pull into the flake just left of the cherry ballart then continue up the face-crack. FA: Dave Neilson & Keith McNaughton, 1968 | 18 | 16m | |||
4 |
★★ Stairway to Hell
Very pumpy and well-protected; take lots of cams including big ones. It used to start up Huey but the walk across the ledge at 5 metres was just silly. Start: Start 5 metres left of Huey at small corner. FA: Glenn Tempest & Phillip Armstrong, 1979 | 19 | 20m | |||
5 |
★ I Wish That Bulge Would Go Away
More good face-climbing. Start as for "Stairway to Hell" to ledge then wander up wherever you find holds, heading out right when faced with the blank bulge near the top. Be mindful of rope drag. FA: Louise Shepherd & Simon Mentz, 1991 | 20 | 16m | |||
6 |
★ Genitals of Speech
Diagonal crack 10 metres left of Huey with hard start. FA: John Lattanzio & Greg Pritchard, 1984 | 21 | 15m | |||
7 |
★ New routing and other afflictions
Just behind Huey wall and a bit to the left is a small orange wall with and undercut start. This line take the twin seams with the small triangle roof at the start, beware of the loose looking blocks on the ledge. from the ledge head right through the steepness to the top FFA: adam demmert & Wendy Eden | 21 | 10m |
1.2.6.1. Upper Pharos Gully 12 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
description
Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Pharos Gully Area
approach
Up the gully past Huey Wall, or along the vague path off the Pharos Gully main track
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Stranger Than Friction
Buttress uphill from Voidoid Pinnacle - opposite 'Totally Foxed!' Right-leading diagonal. From almost at top of seam, step left and go up. Start: Start under hanging flake on left side of face. FA: Chris Baxter & Mike Stone, 1985 | 17 | 25m | |||||
2 |
Sensible Shoes
Start on right side of wall. Traverse easily left and finish up weakness left of 'Stranger Than Friction'. FA: Chris Baxter & Mike Stone, 1985 | 11 | 20m | |||||
3 |
★★ Vaginal Death Threat
Short corner bounding right side of wall. FA: Ed Sharp, Paul Colyvan & Greg Pritchard, 1984 | 18 | 15m | |||||
Way up the head of the gully, right down on the gully and facing south-east is this little orange wall. It's about 60 metres left of Huey, on the same (north-west) side and facing the same way. | ||||||||
5 |
★ Jerky Versions of the Dream
Fairly direct but not the logical line on this wall. From just left of centre go up and right to ledge. Diagonally left along crack, as for Sheer Ecstasy, then go back right up wall on buckets. FA: John Lattanzio & Greg Pritchard, 1984 | 19 | 16m | |||||
6 |
★ Sheer Ecstasy
Not quite but you can't blame them for trying. Take the right-left diagonal all the way. Be careful at the end where the tendency is to run it out a little but the ground below is not all that far away. FA: Dave Gairns & Chris Baxter, 1985 | 16 | 20m | |||||
7 |
Teddy Bear's Picnic
A short way downhill from Sheer Ecstasy Wall on the same side of the creek is a small wall. At the start there are two left leaning parallel cracks that merge about halfway up. Take the right hand crack. This has a bouldery start. To the top. Good pro and an easy walk off. FA: Robbie Martin & John Watson, 2013 | 8 | 10m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
8 |
Bitchy and Itchy
Start: Up and behind "Huey" is a small wall with a large cave on the right side. Climb crack to left end of cave, step left and swing up the wall. Beware the first hold on the left side of the crack is actually a huge detached block which would do serious damage if it pulled off! Descent: Back and then scramble down and right past base of MOAFHG. FA: Paul Colyvan, Greg Pritchard & Ed Sharp, 1984 | 20 | 13m | |||||
Uphill from the righthand end of the Huey buttress is a prominent grey buttress. | ||||||||
10 |
★★ Memoirs of a Fox-hunting Gentleman
Full value, sustained climbing. Follow diagonal, starting out of gully, on left side of buttress. At major break, step right and up thin seam. FA: Robin Miller, Chris Bacter & Dave Gairns, 1985 | 19 | 18m | |||||
11 |
★ Winching Pommies
The finish is a bit runout and insecure, especially if you're not quite tall. Climb arete just right of Memoirs of a Fox-hunting Gentleman for a few metres then go up wall immediately left of arete to an exciting finish. FA: Chris Baxter, Dave Gairns & Robin Miller, 1985 | 16 | 18m | |||||
12 |
★ Crocks on the Rocks
Pleasant. Start from the ledge a few metres up and right of Winching Pommies. Follow weakness up wall right of arete with a hard move in the middle. FA: Robin Miller, Chris Baxter & Dave Gairns, 1985 | 16 | 16m | |||||
13 |
Arts Part-time
Nice slab. Up seam a few metres right of Crocks On The Rocks and step up right onto wall above, avoiding easy ground on right. Go up and slightly left on delicate wall then back slightly right to finish. FA: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter & Robin Miller, 1985 | 16 | 16m | |||||
14 |
Lean Times
Start on south face of grey buttress opposite Crocks On The Rocks, immediately left of huge leaning tree against right side of buttress. Up then diagonally up left to small stance on left above overhangs. Finish steeply. FA: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter & Charlie Creese, 1985 | 17 | 16m |
1.2.6.2. Jackass Wall 10 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
description
North-facing wall below Voidoid Pinnacle
Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Pharos Gully Area
approach
Go to Huey Wall and it's the continuation of the wall facing Huey.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Voidoid Direct Start
A route in its own right and not a great one at that. Start: Start in gully below 'Voidoid' under huge chockstone. Traverse high into line from left. FA: Greg Garnham, Chris Baxter & Joy Fletcher, 1982 | 18 | 15m | |||
2 |
A Bit of the Old One-Two
Easy crack then corner above. Start: Start up easy crack at left end of lower face, artound right of 'Voidoid Direct Start'. FA: Chris & Sue Baxter, 1985 | 16 | 35m | |||
3 |
★ Nautilus
Delicate start 2 metres right of A Bit... leads to ledge at 15 metres Climb the arete at the L end of the wall to finish. A yellow Alien was essential protection. Original route finished up buttress left of A Bit Of The Old One-Two. FA: Robyn Storer & Sue Baxter (alt), 1985 | 18 | 35m | |||
4 |
Jackass Crack
Quite good with a surprisingly technical bulge. The bulging crack 2 metres right of Nautilus and 2 metres left of the large tree. After the crack, go right through overlap and then back left. FA: Robyn Storer & Sue Baxter, 1985 | 17 | 35m | |||
5 |
The Last New Route at Arapiles
Good technical start. Start: Start 2 metres right of 'Jackass Crack', behind gum. Up crack to overhang which is passed on left. Go right through overlap and then back left to easy finish. FA: Chris & Sue Baxter, 1985 | 18 | 35m | |||
6 |
Suffragette
Crack and ramp 1 metre right of The Last New Route At 'Arapiles' then easy overlap. FA: Chris & Sue Baxter, 1985 | 16 | 35m | |||
7 |
Punks for Jesus
Bottomless thin crack 2 metres right of 'Suffragette', finishing straight up. FA: Charlie Creese, Chris Baxter & Dave Gairns, 1985 | 22 | 35m | |||
8 |
Dutch Oven
Line 5 metres right of 'Suffragette', 8 metres right of gum. FA: Chris & Sue Baxter, 1985 | 16 | 35m | |||
9 |
Altered States
Obvious diagonal facing Huey. FA: Chris Baxter & Dave Gairns, 1985 | 10 | 35m | |||
10 |
America After the Bomb
Direct line up and across 'Altered States'. FA: Dave Gairns & Chris Baxter, 1985 | 13 | 17m |
1.2.7. Spellbinder Area 17 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -36.753292, 141.838412
description
Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Pharos Gully Area.
The routes from 'Young, Old and Amputees' to 'Is It About A Bicycle?' are accessed via a scramble on a boulder, from the track. This area from the ledge is called Angel Buttress.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ A Short Crawl in the Pharos Gully
Deceptively tricky. Start on the track at the next little face up the hill from Traffic below a diagonal ramp. Up ramp then tiny corner just left of arete. Swing right around arete and up wall. It is also possible to start the climb a metre or two further right and go up to the end of the ramp. The climb has also been started much further right. FA: Kieran Loughran & Meg Sleeman, 1988 | 19 | 12m | |||||
Angel Black TerraceScramble right from the base of "A Short Crawl in The Pharos Gully" to a terrace. There is a rap anchor above Angel Black. | ||||||||
3 |
Young, Old and Amputees
Up the centre of the left-hand face on the terrace. FA: Pat Ford, David Spike, Norm Booth, Keith Lockwood & Kieran Loughran, 1997 | 20 | 12m | |||||
4 |
Jack-a-Dandy
Start at the left hand of two corners where the two walls on the terrace meet, a couple of metres right of "Young, Old and Amputees". The corner. FA: Keith Lockwood, Jack Ford & Tim Lockwood, 1997 | 6 | 12m | |||||
5 |
★ Angel Grinder
Commemorates an artistic disfiguration. Wall between 'Jack-a-Dandy' and Angel Black. Protection sparse on bottom bit. FA: Richard Smith & Greg Pritchard. Noughties., 2000 | 20 R | 12m | |||||
6 |
★ Angel Black
Good wall which is harder than it looks. Up centre of south-west facing wall, right of 'Jack-a-Dandy' to DBB FA: Kieran Loughran & Meg Sleeman, 1987 | 15 | 12m | |||||
7 |
★ Act in Haste
Good rock, protection was thought to be a bit funky. Wall just right of Angel Black has a prominent flake starting a few metres up. Climb diagonally right up to flake and follow it. FA: Kieran Loughran & Meg Sleeman, 1987 | 18 | 12m | |||||
8 |
★ Clockwork Angels
Start on low prow of rock 1m right of 'Act In Haste'. Gambol upward to the low roof (possible low cam if desired), and clip the first bolt. From the second bolt, a blind move to the right, around the arête (for a grade 21 move right again and up 'Is It About A Bicycle?'), then head straight up with a foot on either side to clip third bolt and up to finish. FFA: Robert Mudie, 5 Mar 2017 | 22 | 12m, 3 | |||||
9 |
★ Is It About A Bicycle?
More good rock. Starts around the arete right of 'Angel Black'. maybe wear a rope for the scramble around. Follow flake diagonally left to fine crack just right of arete and follow this. FA: Kieran Loughran, Peter Mack & Heather Phillips, 1991 | 15 | 12m | |||||
Back to the walking track | ||||||||
11 |
★ Traffic
Short, steep and well-protected. Nice line just left of 'Drivetime'. At top reach back right to lower-off shared with 'Drivetime'. FA: Kieran Loughran & Meg Sleeman, 1987 | 20 | 7m | |||||
12 |
★ Drivetime
Short, sharp pump, almost always in the shade. Continue up track beyond 'Spellbinder' to a steep wall right on the track with a couple of fixed hangers. Steep wall past 2 BR leads to an easier finish (medium cam, red Camalot or similar) and lower-off. FA: Kieran Loughran & Norm Booth, 1997 | 22 | 8m, 2 | |||||
13 |
Danger Danger Will Robinson
Arete left of Spelbinder, starting from right. FA: Mark Moorhead & Jim Thomas, 1983 | 23 X | 15m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
14 |
★★ Spellbinder
Great, clean-cut corner just a few metres off the track. Take some big gear. Bolt anchor at the top. FA: Phillip Stranger & Rob Taylor, 1967 | 17 | 27m | |||||
15 |
Free Fingers
Desperate. Start as for "Spellbinder". Go up Spellbinder for 8 metres to ledge. Move right, up short, left-facing corner and over bulge to bolt (#4RP placement en-route). Move right again then up to easier climbing. rap as for Spellbinder FA: Kim Carrigan, 1986 | 28 | 20m, 1 | |||||
16 |
★ Adios Amigos
Great line with vicious crux. Up arete right of Spellbinder past a bolt, finishing up crack left of summit block. FA: Mark Moorhead & Jon Muir, 1981 | 25 | 27m, 1 | |||||
17 |
Twinkle Toes
Supposed to be desperate. Start as for 'Adios Amigos' then move right and up past 2 BR FA: Mark Moorhead & Chris Shepherd, 1983 | 27 | 20m, 2 | |||||
18 |
The Astroman of Arapiles
Up the Lockwood Slot! Hopefully not it's final name. Has nothing in common with its namesake. The inverted funnel just right of Twinkle Toes. Climb the initial wall and move back into the depths of the Hardly Slot and up until possible to chimney horizontally back out. When possible pull onto the right arete and bridge up (as for finish of Antiquity). FA: Keith Lockwood & Kieran Loughran, 2012 | 16 | 25m | |||||
19 |
Antiquity
Interesting climbing, and a bit of a soft touch for the grade, but gets little attention. Another shady option for a warm day. Right of Spellbinder and just right of Adios Amigos is a narrow chimney. Just right of this is a left-leading crack. Take left-leading crack to a rest just right of chimney, below obvious hanging block. The block looks quite dodgy so swing up into crack on right and up right side of the slender buttress until able to move back left and go up, to finish at the top of the chimney on the left. Abseil from large tree (25m) FA: Peter Cunningham, Andrew Webb, Glenn Donohue & Iain Sedgman, 1984 | 19 | 22m |
1.2.8. Cheops Buttress 15 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -36.753199, 141.839177
description
Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Pharos Gully Area
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
There is some very minor potential for climbing on the rock between here and the Spellbinder area but it should be ignored. Some climbing has been done but it isn't worthwhile and accessing the rock could create erosion problems for the walking track. | ||||||||
2 |
★ Family Food
Vague, left-leading seams up the middle of the wall left of "Fly By Night" FA: Roland Foster & Mark Moorhead, 1983 | 22 | 20m | |||||
3 |
★ Void
Unlikely with a committing finish. Take plenty of small wires. Start as for "Fly By Night". Bridge up chimney then pull onto wall and follow left-leaning flake just left of Fly By Night. FA: Clive Curson, 2001 | 19 R | 15m | |||||
4 |
★ Fly By Night
A good, pumpy route with some suspect rock. Start on the left wall at the back of the chimney. Bridge up the chimney (purists may decline to bridge) to start then pull into steep left-leaning groove. FA: Keith Egerton & Chris Baxter, 1986 | 19 | 20m | |||||
5 |
★ Bett
From the highest point in the floor of the gully, scramble onto ledges then bridge up the chimney. When it narrows, head for and go up inside of chockstones. Belay on top of chockstones at rap anchor. FA: Ben Wright, Heather Murray & Amber Blodgett, 25 Dec 2015 | 10 | 18m | |||||
6 |
★ Hunting For Swedish Fish
Walk through to the back of the gully where the floor ends at an edge. Up into a scoop in the right wall, then rightwards up ramp and corner. Exit left to belay on boulder ledge. Be wary of the rock. Descent: scramble through (suggest staying roped up) to the rap chains above Fly By Night. FA: Ben Wright & Amber Blodgett., 26 Nov 2017 | 5 | 18m | |||||
7 |
The Great Circle Route
On the wall directly opposite "Fly by Night". Scramble up to the large scoop with the right trending crack. A bouldery move into the scoop. Move up and left, following the edge of the scoop. Traverse right underclinging the top of the scoop before pulling through the lip onto an easy topout. Cross chockstone to "Fly by Night" anchors. Gear is sparse, but adequate and bomber. FA: Steve Greig & Mark Baker, 15 Feb 2018 | 19 | 15m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
8 |
★ The Only Way To Fly
Climb flakes 2 metres left of "Gwen" to overhang and finish up flake and wall above. FA: Chris Baxter & Keith Egerton, 1985 | 17 | 15m | |||||
9 |
★ Gwen
Steep, juggy corner on right edge of chimney. FA: Heather Phillips, Kieran Loughran & Keith Egerton, 1981 | 11 | 20m | |||||
10 |
★★ Cheops
A nice climb making its way up the twin cracks right of Fly By Night Gully. Originally started at Chemistry Class but that is pretty hard. Select guide says to start from a convenient tree just downhill from the entrance to "Fly By Night" gully but this start is hard, poorly protected and accessing it risks erosion to the track. Better to start at the arete on the outside edge of "Fly By Night" gully. Gain the ledge, then up left-hand crack for a few moves then move into steep right-hand crack and go up. FA: Rod young & Kevin Otten, 1979 | 19 | 20m | |||||
11 |
★ Chemistry Class
Hard seam to ledge, step left and follow the line into the finishing crack of "Cheops". Start: Start at thin, left-leading seam down right from "Cheops". FA: Ant Prehn & Rod Young, 1983 | 22 | 25m | |||||
12 |
★★ I'm A Little Monster
Seam right of 'Chemistry Class' (crux), step left and go up wall of big bums, trending right. FA: Jon Muir & Greg Pritchard, 1993 | 23 | 35m | |||||
13 |
★ Long Hair And Great Coats
A novelty start leads to an intimidating finish. Start under the massive chockstone in the gully below the "Cheops" buttress. Climb up to and through the hole between the chockstone and the face. Up shallow black corner to old fixed peg. Continue straight up steep wall which is slightly run-out. FA: Greg Pritchard & Jon Muir, 1993 | 13 | 35m | |||||
14 |
★ Hendor
Essentially a variant finish to "Long Hair And Greatcoats". It originally started by moving around the right side of the huge chockstone but that is worthless. Start as for "Long Hair And Greatcoats". Follow Long Hair And Greatcoats to manky old peg at top of shallow black corner. Make a committing move left and then up interesting thin crack to top. FA: Daryl Carr & Ken Readwin, 1967 | 12 | 36m | |||||
15 |
Hendor Direct Finish
Could make a good second pitch for Turquoise. Could also be undergraded and runout. Start on big ledge above the jammed block that Hendor starts below. Climb up to small orange cave. Pull through righthand end and go straight up the wall, stepping right at the top. FA: Jon Muir & Greg Pritchard, 1993 | 16 | 20m | |||||
16 |
Crab Walk
Hard to justify this one; essentially an indirect version of Hendor Direct Finish a quarter of a century later.
FA: Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 23 Feb 2017 | 14 | 38m, 2 |
1.2.9. Ethereal Buttress 9 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -36.753311, 141.839385
description
Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Pharos Gully Area
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★★ Wollongongalongdongbong
Inspired route naming. Start 10m up L from 'Today'. Right past PR then crack. FA: Mark Moorhead & Roland Foster, 1983 | 23 | 10m | |||||
2 |
★ Today
Crack and pod. Start: Start just L of the L arete of the main face, just behind a pine. FA: Kevin & Sue Otten, 1979 | 18 | 15m | |||||
3 |
★ Family Feud
Start 5m L of "Running on Empty". L past flake to BR (replaced 2014), crux to jugs, then traverse L and up face, runout towards the top. Can also finish R instead of L, which looks great. FA: Lincoln & Chris Shepherd, 1981 | 24 | 20m, 1 | |||||
4 |
★★ Running on Empty
Stem scoop, move R to join L trending line. Start: Start under the steep scoop. FA: Kevin Lindorff & Eddy Ozols, 1978 | 21 | 20m | |||||
5 |
★★ Ethereal
Gets rave reviews. Start 2m R of RoE. Rooflet into seam, L at ledge then back R to arete. FA: Kevin Lindorff, Tony Marian & Andrew Martin, 1979 | 21 | 20m | |||||
6 |
★ Whacky-Did
Up 'Pibroch' for 4m then the groove on the L. Start: As for 'Pibroch'. FA: Keith Egerton, Stephen Burke, Allan Hope & Jane Wilkinson, 1984 | 18 | 20m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
7 |
★ Pibroch
Shallow corner, step R past conifer, then trend R up wall or go straight up. Start: Start 2m R of E. FA: Jeremy Boreham & Rod Young, 1976 | 15 | 20m | |||||
8 |
Cyclops
Committing hand-traverse. Start in gully around right of 'Pibroch'. Hand-traverse left around an arete to bottomless crack and climb this. FA: Rod Young & Phillip McMillan, 1979 | 21 | 20m | |||||
9 |
Zub
Start 2 metres right of 'Cyclops' on left side of black cave and go up wall on spaced jugs. FA: Mike Law (solo), 1981 | 20 | 10m |
1.2.10. Pharos Gully Bouldering 2 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -36.752937, 141.839140
description
Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Pharos Gully Area
1.2.10.1. Ministry of fig pluckers 2 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -36.752941, 141.839131
description
Around the right-hand side of the Ethereal Buttress.
Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Pharos Gully Area
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Ministry of fig pluckers | V5 | ||||||
2 | High traverse | V9 |
1.3. Yesterday Gully 106 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -36.752889, 141.838912
description
Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Pharos Gully Area
|
1.3.1. Lower Gully 54 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -36.752987, 141.839218
description
Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Pharos Gully Area
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Shadows and Light Wall | ||||||||
2 |
★★ Shaken Not Stirred
Takes the seam immediately left of Miss Moneypenny, ie the left side of the Turquoise/Green Shirt wall. Best done as a variant finish to Miss Moneypenny as the start is undistinguished and poorly protected. Either climb the grey wall, moving left until able to chimney and then up to join MissMoneypenny below second bolt, or climb Miss Moneypenny to this point. Now, ignore the bolt and follow the line slightly diagonally left. FA: Keith Lockwood, Norm Booth & Kieran Loughran, 22 Dec 2018 | 17 | 20m | |||||
3 |
★ Miss Moneypenny
Consistent climbing for the grade. Starts 10m L of Turquoise, takes 2 #3 camalots (or equivalent), a #0.2 is handy to protect clip at second bolt. Up to lower off. FA: Geoff Little & Maureen Little, 2017 | 18 | 20m, 3 | |||||
4 |
★ Pussy Galore
Start as for Moneypenny, step R at 4m up to big horizontal (#3 cam) past 2 bolts to lower off. FA: Geoff Little & Maureen Little, 2017 | 20 | 20m, 2 | |||||
5 |
★ The G Spot
A good discovery. Start through bulge 3m R of Moneypenny, trend R to detached block (has been pinned), through bulge past bolt to lower off. FA: Geoff Little & Maureen Little, 2017 | 19 | 23m, 1 | |||||
6 |
★ Into the Lipstick
Hard to get good gear and you're close to a groundfall for some time. Start 3 metres left of 'Turquoise' at short flake. From top of short flake some tricky moves lead to left-leading diagonal. FA: Lincoln Shepherd & Phil Bigg, 1981 | 23 R | 25m, 1 | |||||
7 |
Cat People
An attractive wall but hard to protect and has easier unprotected section. Start 3 metres left of 'Turquoise' at short flake as for Into The Lipstick. Climb flake and straight up bulging wall above to a ledge. Continue up easier, unprotected wall on left to join Turquoise near top. FA: Ant Prehn & Rod Young, 1983 | 23 R | 25m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
8 |
★ Green Shirt
A long, absorbing lead. The top wall - which is the crux - has a loose flake you have to pull on above a small wire that won't keep you off the ledge. Beware! Start on the south arete of the buttress, a metre left of the shallow orange corner of Turquoise. Over bulge and follow weakness up left to ledge. Move right and up corner, crossing Turquoise then straight up middle of right wall, bold to get established, then short hand-crack. FA: Rod Young & Ant Prehn, 1983 | 19 R | 25m | |||||
9 |
★ Tease and Flirt
Follow Green Shirt to just after the ledge but then break left following diagonal line past bolt. Finish right of the end of Turquoise. FA: Gareth Llewellin & Rob Saunders, 18 Mar 2015 | 21 | 25m, 1 | |||||
10 |
★ Turquoise
Good start and finish. Crosses Green Shirt and climbs the L seam and arete off the ledge. Runout up the slab above this. Start: Start at south arete of buttress at a shallow orange corner. FA: Rod Young & Phillip McMillan, 1979 | 18 | 25m | |||||
11 |
★ Better Than That
Start up either 'Turquoise' or 'More of the Same' to gain the streak up the middle of the upper wall (between 'Green Shirt' and 'More of the Same'). A good RP 3 protects the moves up to the bolt. Step R under the bolt and climb the tricky gray wall up and slightly R to the top. You can reach back L to a lower-off, which now services 'Green Shirt', 'Better Than That', 'More of the Same' and 'All the Same'. FA: Glenn Tempest, Karen Tempest & Michael Hampton, 21 Sep 2016 | 20 | 25m, 1 | |||||
12 |
★★ More of the Same
Doesn't have to be a solo like the first ascent but not a lace-up. Include a big cam and RPs. Start just right of Turquoise and follow the rounded black arete. FA: Jon Muir (solo), 1983 | 21 R | 25m | |||||
13 |
★★ All the Same
Start up Shadows and Light and finish up More of the Same. Great climbing and more consistent than Shadows and Light. | 25 | 25m | |||||
14 |
★★ Shadows and Light
A beautiful, overhanging arete, with a rest on the left that's hard to ignore. Follow seam (small wires) up left side of glorious orange nose and continue past bolts. FA: Mark Moorhead, 1981 | 26 | 25m, 2 | |||||
15 |
★★ Heatmiser / forgårs
Up Shadows and Light to its second bolt. Step right to the pointy jug, then straight up (dyno) into Elongate. FFA: Christopher Glastonbury, 3 Sep 2022 | 29 | 15m, 4 | |||||
16 |
★★ Elongate
Very reachy. Climb the wall left of White Heat. FA: Mark Moorhead. Chris Shepherd had earlier climbed the upper section as a variant (26) to "White Heat", 1983 | 27 | 25m, 2 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
17 |
★★ White Heat
A good, pumpy jamming testpiece. Jam inverted staircase left of the big chimney, 3 metres right of Shadows and Light. FA: Greg Child & Tim Beaman, 1976 | 22 | 20m | |||||
18 |
★ Les Ordures Blanches
Start up White Heat for 8m. Move right eventually joining the final crack of Ephemeral. Bolt has been chopped beware. FA: Gareth Llewellin, 6 Mar 2015 | 24 | 20m | |||||
19 |
★★ Les Ordures Blanches RH Variant
The 23 variant described in Mentz and Tempest (2016). Instead of starting up White Heat head up the arete to the right. FA: Gareth Llewellin, Mar 2015 | 23 | 20m | |||||
20 |
★ Ephemeral
The poorly protected crux means that the direct finish is the usual way. The left-facing flake right of White Heat with tricky, poorly protected moves left under the roof. FA: Kevin Lindorff & Kim Carrigan, 1978 | 22 R | 20m | |||||
21 |
★★ Ephemeral Direct Finish
A subtle line requiring a bit of effort to protect adequately. Start as for Ephemeral . Up short corner to flake and continue straight up the wall. FA: Paul Hoskins, Chris & Lincoln Shepherd, 1982 | 22 | 22m | |||||
22 |
★ Four Sticks
Crank up the wall 2 metres right of "Ephemeral" FA: Rod Young & Chris Shepherd, 1979 | 18 | 20m | |||||
23 |
I Get By
Left side of wall, straight up to ledge. Crucial cam placements aren't bombproof. Start: Start on the grey wall just R of 'Four Sticks'. FA: Richard Smith, Greg Caire, Sir Michael Hampton & Matilda, 2000 | 16 R | 18m | |||||
24 |
With a Little Help
Start on the black rock 3m R of I'll Get By This takes the line up from left facing flake. Again seems to rely on less than ideal cams. FA: Richard Smith & Greg Caire, 2000 | 16 R | 18m | |||||
25 |
The Depths
... of depravity. A spelunking expedition through the bowels of the cliff. Climb into the chimney past the beginning of Open Road and A Bridge Too Far and just keep on going. Easy chimney climbing with a dodgy flake system for gear leads to a good belay above massive chockstones. Some of the poorest rock you'll find at the Mount, not a classic. Turns out to be a variant start to 'Hunting For Swedish Fish' (in 'Cheops Buttress' area). | 8 | 35m | |||||
Lemon Butter ButtressLovely buttress on right side of chimney-gully. | ||||||||
27 |
A Bridge Too Far
Go further up the chimney than Open Road, bridge up, climb corner and roof on the R wall FA: Jon Muir & Greg Pritchard, 1993 | 19 | 40m | |||||
28 |
★ Open Road
A long pitch taking the right wall of the big chimney to an exciting finish. Protection is sparse in the easier lower half. Up to ledge then bridge up the wide chimney for as far as possible before pulling onto the right wall. Follow the corner until hands are level with a prominent scoop then traverse right for 2 metres. Go up wall, step right and finish straight up. To get off, scramble to top of buttress and over to the rap chain of Fly by Night. FA: Greg Child & Natalie Green, 1978 | 16 | 40m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
29 |
★★ Snow Blind
A graceful flake on beautiful, slick orange rock. Be careful with gear placement as a couple of people have hit the ground after stripping all of their pieces after the fixed gear. Double ropes would help to reduce the effect of the change of rope direction. Also, the peg is considered dodgy. Bridge up chimney to bolt then right past peg and up flake and pumpy wall. Finish at lower-off for In Lemon Butter. FA: Coral Bowman & Chris Paisker, 1978 | 23 | 15m, 1 | |||||
30 |
★★★ In Lemon Butter
Beautiful sustained climbing up the arete and wall right of "Snowblind". The finish feels a bit bold, running out above small RPs, but there's solid gear below. Tricky undercling on the arete leads to lovely face moves up the seams. FA: Kim Carrigan, Kevin Lindorff & Greg Child, 1978 | 22 | 15m | |||||
31 |
Bland
Thin, reachy and run-out. Face 3 metres right of In Lemon Butter with a step right in the middle. FA: Warwick Baird & Tony Marian, 1979 | 23 R | 15m | |||||
32 |
My Waxing Gibbous
Start just to the right of the wide crack between Bland and Boy's Own. After the bulge at the shrub, immediately step left and traverse across delicate face through Bland before pulling through lip and up to rap station for In Lemon Butter. FA: Oliver Adams & Angie Isobel, 1 Feb | 14 | 15m | |||||
33 |
Boy's Own
Middle of buttress to tiny corner and overlap. Finish straight up. Start: Start at middle of buttress right of wide crack just right of 'Bland'. FA: Keith Egerton & Chris Baxter, 1986 | 23 | 15m | |||||
34 |
Hypnosis
Cutting loose on the jug is suitably exciting as long as it stays put! From bald arete right of Boy's Own, traverse left and cut loose on hollow, flat-topped jug. FA: Mark Moorhead, Tony Marian & Jim Van Gelder, 1979 | 20 | 15m | |||||
35 |
Changin' Times
Hard to get gear. Steep diagonal crack leading right from base of Hypnosis. FA: Mark Moorhead, Tony Marian & Jim Van Gelder, 1979 | 19 R | 10m | |||||
36 |
★ The Same Issues
Nice slab and steeper bit R of Changin' Times - toproped only FA: Douglas Hockly | 20 | 10m | |||||
37 |
Fleagle
Up nicest section of wall getting what gear you can. Start: Start: 4m right of 'Hypnosis'. FA: Richard Smith, Greg Pritchard & Paul Hoskins., 2000 | 16 | 15m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
Milk Blood Wall | ||||||||
39 |
Nexus
Clip bolt runner then climb up and right, a bit boldly, to arete. Start: Start on the right wall of the side gully. FA: Lincoln Shepherd & Phil Bigg, 1981 | 21 | 15m, 1 | |||||
40 |
Snorky
Head up rightish to small pod then back left above this and straight up to horizontal break. Take thin seam through headwall. Start: Start: Above 'Nexus' there is a wall with no routes (until now). It faces the Pharos. Start in the middle of the wall. FA: Paul Hoskins, Greg Pritchard & Richard Smith., 2000 | 18 | 15m | |||||
41 |
No Quarter
Fiddly gear. You have to love flaring RP placements. Go up just right of the left arete of the main gully and past a grey snout. At top bulge go left, right or mantle direct on small ledge (that should exhaust all options). FA: Rod Young & Colin Reece, 1979 | 23 | 15m | |||||
42 |
★ Undertow
Start up the poorly protected seam of Tomorrow, then L and up (gear is good from here). FA: Rod Young & Chris Shepherd, 1979 | 18 | 15m | |||||
43 |
★ Tomorrow
Varied and tricky. The crackline about 3m R of the arete (No Quarter). The initial seam is poorly protected and not super easy. FA: Phillip McMillan & Rod Young, 1979 | 18 | 10m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
44 |
★ Pattern Juggler
Up incipient crack 2 metres right of "Tomorrow". Reach right to pass bulge, veering left at the top. FA: Rod Young & Kevin Otten, 1979 | 23 | 15m | |||||
45 |
★ Pattern Juggler Direct Start
Up the line just R of Pattern Juggler and L of Milk Blood. Just toproped. | 24 | 15m | |||||
46 |
★★★ Milk Blood
"Milk blood to keep from running out". Great crack which will take as much gear as you can hang around to place. Start at the clean finger crack 2 metres right of "Pattern Juggler" and 10 metres below the boulder-choke. Crack until it runs out, step left and struggle up finishing slot. FA: Chris Peisker & Coral Bowman, 1978 | 23 | 10m | |||||
47 |
★ Milk Blood Variant Finish
A really good alternative to the finishing slot on "Milk Blood". Step right at the top of the initial crack and up the unlikely face. FA: Jon Muir & Geoff Little, 1985 | 23 | 10m | |||||
48 |
More Moves
Tenuous line 3 metres right of 'Milk Blood' FA: Jon Muir & Geoff Little, 1985 | 25 | 10m | |||||
49 |
Pixie's Delight
Could be a poxy delight if you break a hold and crater. Contender for worst route that made it into the Mentz/Tempest guidebook. Wall 3 metres right of More Moves, just below the boulder-choke. The crux starts when you're standing on the ground, trying to work out where the route starts. One option is via the pockets (no gear); another is via the vertical seam a couple of metres up the hill (miniscule grips). The best option is probably to find a better route (which isn't hard in this gully!). FA: Ant Prehn & Jeff Lamb, 1980 | 21 | 10m | |||||
Boulder ChokeThe next climbs are on the righthand side of the gully near the boulder choke. Shade from 10:30-2 in height of summer and then late afternoon. | ||||||||
51 |
Gruntled
Doesn’t look much but quite enjoyable. The flake on the headwall sounds hollow but appears well attached at the base; use your judgement. Can belay above or below the chockstone but above will reduce drag. From the top of the chockstone, step left and up the wide, slabby groove then steeply up the headwall. At the top move right to the anchor above Kempt (watch out for detached blocks on the ledge). FA: Kieran Loughran & Norm Booth, 5 Jan 2019 | 13 | 20m | |||||
52 |
★ Kempt
Nice climbing up the thin crack and face. A brass offset covering the #4-5 RP size is useful. Start immediately below the boulder choke, below a thin crack on the right wall. Bridge between the boulder and face to base of crack. Crack and continuation seam. Step right at headwall and up juggy crack to ledge and up to anchor. FA: Kieran Loughran & Keith Lockwood, 8 Jan 2019 | 15 | 20m | |||||
53 |
Ept
This is pretty good. Start a few metres down right of the boulder choke, opposite Pixies Delight. Move right on a ledge to base of diagonal flake/ramp (FH). Follow flake diagonally left until it runs out at FH. Move left to and up seams on grey face (this is just right of the crack and seams of Kempt) to the headwall. Up righthand crack moving slightly right then back left at top (careful with hollow block on left). Easy ground to anchor above Kempt. FA: Kieran Loughran & Keith Lockwood, 19 Jan 2019 | 18 | 2 | |||||
Cosmosis AreaA bit obscure and acually on the right-hand (eastern) side of Lower Yesterday Gully. Past the second buttress is a gully capped by a massive chockstone (ie gully beteen Hypnosis and Nexus). Opposite this is a large tree below a short wall. Just above this short wall is a square-cut notch in the east wall of Yesterday Gully. On the left wall of the notch are 2 little routes. You can also scramble through here to get to the base of Mentor but it is better approached from The Pinnacle Area. | ||||||||
55 |
Cosmosis
Steeply up right on jugs, then back left and up jugs. Start: Start just right of the middle of the wall. FA: John Lattanzio, Tim Ball & Greg Pritchard, 1984 | 16 | 10m | |||||
56 |
★ Russians in the DSS
Follow corner on right arete of wall and through bulge. FA: Tim Ball, John Lattanzio & Greg Pritchard, 1984 | 17 | 15m | |||||
The next climbs are on the little wall shaded by the tree. DEscend as for the scamble to Cosmosis, or abseil. | ||||||||
58 |
By Gum
The bulgy left side of the wall, to the left-hand summit. The tree helps as hold and pro. FA: Keith Lockwood & Kieran Loughran, 19 Jan 2019 | 16 | 15m | |||||
59 |
Snagged
The central seam, past a downward-pointing tongue of rock. FA: Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 29 Dec 2018 | 17 | 15m | |||||
60 |
Arbor Day
Corner on the right, branching slightly left to finish up the right-hand summit. FA: Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 29 Dec 2018 | 10 | 15m |
1.3.2. Upper Gully 52 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -36.752767, 141.838547
description
A wonderful area that hosts some classic routes.
Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Upper Yesterday Gully Area
approach
Yesterday 'Gully' is blocked by a chockstone forming a rock-step just past "Milk Blood". This area covers all of the climbs above this step. Scrambling up and down past this isn't too hard but is awkward with a pack, especially in descent.
Many of the routes can also be approached from above, which can be convenient if you drive to the top, but familiarity with the area is required as this would be almost impossible to describe. If you want to abseil into 'Yesterday', there is a pair of rings at the top of the cliff from which you can go down (and slightly left) about 8m to find the anchors of that route.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Slabocide AreaHigh up to the left of Upper Yesterday Gully. Approach from Yesterday Gully by scrambling leftwards up a gully just above the boulder choke. The routes left of Wishful Thinking can also be reached by traversing around a ledge system from the base of Spellbinder in Pharos Gully. | ||||||||
2 |
No Room for Mistakes
Hand crack 12 metres left of "Trampled Underfoot". FA: Tim Beaman & Sylvia Lazarnick, 1976 | 14 | 15m | |||||
3 |
Bornhoffen
Start as for No Room For Mistakes and hand traverse right into overhung line past piton. FA: Rod Young & Stuart Camps, 1976 | 23 | 15m | |||||
4 |
Yep
Crack with overhung start 8 metres left of 'Trampled Underfoot'. FA: Rod Young & Stuart Camps, 1983 | 22 | 15m | |||||
5 |
Two Bob Each Way
Useless. Twin cracks 5 metres left of Trampled Underfoot. FA: Chris Baxter & Francine Gilfedder, 1976 | 9 | 15m | |||||
6 |
Trampled Underfoot
Awesome major corner that sees few ascents. Large gear is needed. Start: Start below the corner forming the left side of the 'Slabocide' wall.
FA: Greg Child, Matt Taylor, Tim Beaman & Sylvia Lazarnick, 1976 | 18 R | 30m, 2 | |||||
7 |
★ Flesh-Eating Pixies
A "convenient bundle of fun" taking in bits of a few other routes. Start: Normally started as for "Wishful Thinking" but can also be started from the base of "Trampled Underfoot", below a fixed hange a few metres right of that climb. From gully, pull onto wall and up vertical crack to major horizontal. Clip FH then hard moves up and right past another FH. Onwards past some natural gear and another bolt up higher. FA: Paul Deacon & Nick Sutter, 2000 | 23 | 35m, 3 | |||||
8 |
A Touch of the Vapours
Serious route which appears to require a long reach and has a suspect grade. Rarely, if ever repeated and you would probably need blinkers to avoid clipping the bolts on "Flesh-Eating Pixies". Start below block jammed in the horizontal break right of "Trampled Underfoot". This block is a metre or two right of the first fixed hanger of "Flesh-Eating Pixies". Move up from jammed block to an undercling (looks desperate) then veer left, crossing "Flesh-Eating Pixies" into flake. FA: Roger Greatrick & Rod Young, 1983 | 22 R | 20m | |||||
9 |
Slabocide
Looks quite dramatic. The bolts are carrots and the first is pretty rusty. Start 1 metre right of "A Touch Of The Vapours". Awkward moves lead right past 2 bolts and a fixed wire. FA: Rod Young, 1983 | 24 | 20m, 2 | |||||
10 |
Wishful Thinking
This is probably now the first bit of Flesh-Eating Pixies. The left-hand line up wall directly below 'Slabocide'. FA: Paul Aubrey & Glenn Tempest. John Marshall dispensed with bridging in., 1991 | 19 | 10m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
Fever Pitch WallOrange face up left from the rock-step. Rap anchor above Fever Pitch. | ||||||||
12 |
★ Black Spasm
A good roof - the crackline just R of the arete. You can also take the flake to the R at the same grade. FA: Mike Law, 1977 | 22 | 20m | |||||
13 |
★★ Grand Central
Originally raved about but the crux section has to fight to avoid easier climbing. However now that the bees are gone (as of Apr 2023) this route might just be worth the hype it was originally given. Usually done as one pitch. Start in the gully below the prominent orange wall.
FA: Greg Child & Kevin Lindorff (alt), 1978 | 22 | 40m, 2 | |||||
14 |
★★★ Fever Pitch
Superb, intricate and sustained climbing. Originally done as two pitches but best done in a single pitch. Start at the R-facing corner 2 metres right of "Grand Central". Up the right-facing corner to ledge. From the ledge, delicately move over bulge. Clip bolt and zoom through a peg (natural pros available) to an easier ground. Stay R of the crack to avoid loose rock. FA: Kim Carrigan & Kevin Lindorff (alt), 1978 | 23 | 30m, 2 | |||||
15 |
★ Not Just a Pretty Face
... a good crack too. Bridge up the chimney right of Fever Pitch and pull onto the wall below a short crack. Steeply up crack to good holds. More hard moves lead up to and around flake, then continue up crack and face. FA: Kim Carrigan & Kevin Lindorff, 1978 | 23 | 35m | |||||
16 |
Flash Gordon
Scary start. Approach via gully and chimney right of Fever Pitch. The arete right of Not Just A Pretty face from top of approach chimney. FA: Glenn Tempest & Eddy Ozols, 1980 | 21 R | 15m | |||||
17 |
Hune
Middle of face opposite 'Flash Gordon' and left of 'Haphazard'. FA: Keith Egerton (solo), 1984 | 17 | 15m | |||||
18 |
Greta Van Fleet
Climb the ramp just left of Haphazard for 7 meters to ledge, then climb wall directly with tricky moves at the top. FFA: Paul Deacon & Pat Ford, 22 Oct 2018 | 18 | 15m | |||||
19 |
Mason Cox
Climb the ramp just left of Haphazard for 5 meters, step right and climb the face 2 meters left of the arete to the top. FFA: Paul Deacon & Pat Ford, 22 Oct 2018 | 15 | 15m | |||||
20 |
★★ Haphazard
The overhanging, cracked arete up the gully from Lunatic and across gully north of "Flash Gordon". FA: Kim Carrigan, John Smoothy & Tony Dignan, 1979 | 23 | 15m | |||||
21 |
Psychotic
This is in the hanging gully between Lunatic and Blue Hawaii and is approached by scrambling down from Haphazard. Lefthand of two lines left of the original start to 'Lunatic', finishing up arete. FA: Tony Dignan & Kim Carrigan, 1984 | 18 | 20m | |||||
22 |
Spasmodic
Seam just right of Psychotic in hanging gully left of the arete of 'Lunatic' in gully. Continue up exciting face moves. A runner in 'Psychotic' protects crux. FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984 | 24 | 20m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
Future Past PillarFrom the rock-step in the main part of Yesterday gully, this is the first pillar on the left in the main gully. From the top of the routes, walk to the Blue Hawaii rap anchor. | ||||||||
24 |
Hollow Point
Thin crack below left arete of 'Future Past' pillar. From ledge above crack go up arete, finishing on right. FA: Rod Young & Chris Shepherd, 1980 | 18 | 40m | |||||
25 |
★ The Last Resort
Go up to and around an overhang. From ledge above, finish up 'Future Past'. Start: Start 3 metres left of 'Future Past'. FA: Chris Shepherd & Rod Young | 20 | 30m | |||||
26 |
Swoops
Cut loose on big block about 2 metres right of 'The Last Resort'. Pass right end of small cave and go straight up to finish just left of arete. Start: Start 2 metres left of 'Future Past' FA: Keith Egerton, 1984 | 23 | 30m | |||||
27 |
★ Future Past
Warning Flora and Fauna: Skeleton Fork Fern Climb right-hand side of pillar and traverse left above overhang to small cave. Step out and go straight up to top. FA: Rod Young & Trevor Dance, 1977 | 15 | 31m | |||||
28 |
Sweet Bugger All
Quite pleasant really. Start up Future Past and climb directly up, keeping about 2 metres right of the blunt arete, to the top. FA: Keith Egerton (solo), 1984 | 12 | 30m | |||||
Blue Hawaii Pinnacle | ||||||||
30 |
★ Cock rock
Start up Yesterday’s Rooster. Just past first bolt on YR step left under small roof. Blast straight up wall past another bolt, and tending left at the top. FFA: James Wynne, 2015 | 25 | 25m, 2 | |||||
|
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
31 |
★★ Yesterday's Rooster
Up and left to top of corner from which BH escapes. Up and right past BR to thin line right of arete, almost back into BH below final triangular roof. Step left and up past BR to double ring bolt belay and rap. Start: Start: As for 'Blue Hawaii'. Bring two bolt-plates. FA: Wade Stevens & Tim Day, 1999 | 21 | 22m, 2 | |||||
32 |
★★ Blue Hawaii
Excellent, steep fun. Solid at the grade with fiddly gear on the crux. Start on the left edge of the pillar, as for "Yesterday's Rooster". Gain short hanging corner, fiddle with pro then move right and follow middle of buttress. FA: Kevin Lindorff, Rod Young & Greg Child, 1978 | 20 | 35m | |||||
33 |
★ Moo Hawaii
Direct start up dodgy rock 2m R of original is actually quite a bit easier. Just toproped, I'll put 2 bolts in it, or feel free to put them in yourself, I don't mind! FA: Douglas Hockly, 2014 | 19 | 25m | |||||
Yesterday Wall | ||||||||
35 |
★★★ Lunatic
Wonderful sustained and steep. A megaclassic. Start about 10m right of 'Blue Hawaii' and 2m left of 'Yesterday'. Follow an inverted staircase flake into a hanging gully. Step R and continue pass two FHs along the weakness to the overlap (peg). Crank through the steeper section on jugs to the double ring bolt anchor. FA: Glenn Tempest, Eddy Ozols (starting from the hanging gully, stemming up L of the bolt). Wayne Jensen added the direct start & bolted arete section while doing Maniacal (24)., 1989 | 23 | 25m, 3 | |||||
36 |
Maniacal
Provided the logical start to 'Lunatic' but it's now just a footnote as a link from 'Lunatic' into That's 'Fantastic'. Follow Lunatic to the bolt. Continue for another 3 metres then step right and go up arete into That's Fantastic. FA: Wayne Jensen, 1989 | 24 | 35m, 1 | |||||
37 |
★★ Smear Campaign
Start as for Lunatic, continue up the arete and then tend R. Has it's own chains. 27 in both current guidebooks. FA: Gordon Poultney, 2010 | 27 | 20m, 6 | |||||
38 |
★ That's Fantastic
Avoids the crux of "Yesterday" via a fine alternative finish. Start: as for "Yesterday". Take Yesterday to bulge, traverse left along break then up the spectacular arete. FA: Chris Shepherd & Malcolm Matheson, 1984 | 24 | 30m | |||||
39 |
Yesterday Left Hand Variant
Probably awesome so we'll chuck a few stars at it and see what everyone thinks. To be distinguished from "That's Fantastic" which also starts up "Yesterday" and moves left. Start: As for 'Yesterday'. Up Yesterday to the crux, then traverse left and up through little roof, past fixed wire. FA: FRA Paul Hoskins, 1993 | 26 | 30m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
40 |
★★★ Yesterday
A powerful, overhanging line. Place high nut with a stick and boulder into line from either side. Up the line which veers right at rooflet. Move left for final few moves to rings. FA: Clive Parker, Peter McKeand & Gordon Talbett (all aid), 1968 FFA: Kim Carrigan, 1979 | 26 | 27m | |||||
41 |
★★ Yesterday Direct Direct / Ingvar's Yesterday Direct
Excellent sustained face that adds a hard start to 'Yesterday Direct'. Start just right of Yesterday and climb past a fixed hanger to join 'Yesterday Direct', which continues up via two ringbolts to join 'Yesterday'. FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2001 | 28 | 25m, 3 | |||||
42 |
★★ Yesterday Direct / Kim's Yesterday Direct
A good route to try if Ingvar's variant is out of reach. Step off the boulder about 8m up the hill from 'Yesterday', traverse left 3m to a seam. Up via two ringbolts to join 'Yesterday'. FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984 | 27 | 20m, 2 | |||||
43 |
Straight Up the Chook
Link Yesterday Direct into Use No Chooks. FFA: Chris Abernethy | 29 | 20m, 5 | |||||
44 |
★★ Use No Chooks
Stick-clip bolt, climb tricky start and straight up past several more FHs. Start about 12 metres right of Yesterday FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984 | 28 | 20m, 4 | |||||
45 |
Genug
A few desperate bouldery moves. Face 10 metres right of Use No Chooks. FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984 | 27 | 15m, 2 | |||||
46 |
Crack 22
Overhanging crack 3 metres right of the start of 'Genug'. FA: Patrick Alseby. Summer., 1998 | 25 | 12m | |||||
Protege AreaThis is on the opposite side of the gully from Future Past. The first climb is the left edge of the major south-east facing wall and the other climbs are further east. For the climbs right of Specially Yours, rap down to the base of the deep chimney of The Protege. The abseil gear can be recovered during the walk back down Yesterday Gully. It may also be reasonable to approach these by climbing Mentor (Pinnacle Face). | ||||||||
49 |
Specially Yours
Left arete of major buttress. Lost In The Ozone takes the right arete. Wouldn't be too bad with a bit of traffic. Start up shallow corner-flake and up, keeping just right of arete. The crux section is avoidable. FA: Keith Egerton & Roy Smith, 1984 | 20 | 30m | |||||
50 |
★ Lost in the Ozone
Start: Start 10 metres left of the chimney of "The Protege".
FA: Kevin Lindorff & Kim Carrigan (alt), 1979 | 22 | 65m, 2 | |||||
51 |
Wherefore Art Thou...?
Start below middle of orange wall 15 metres left of Lost In The Ozone corner and finish left of diagonal crack. FA: Roy Smith & Keith Egerton, 1984 | 17 | 15m | |||||
52 |
★ The Protege
A memorable excursion up a monster chimney. Protection is spaced. Up chimney to large chockstone at 30 metres. Go around overhang and up to ledge (2 old pitons, possible belay). Bridge widely to top. FA: Daryl Carr & Chris Baxter, 1967 | 12 R | 50m |
1.3.2.1. Parsley Area 7 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
description
Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Upper Yesterday Gully Area
approach
The routes here are best approached from the top. From the Pharos Gully track, take the path to the top of Tip Toe Ridge (just above A Short Crawl in the Pharos Gully). In between the top of Yesterday Gully and the massive cairns near the top of TTR is gully running parallel to Yesterday Gully. These routes are on the right wall as you head down it.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Rumen With a View
Step left across void and diagonal up to jugs. Back right, trying to climb arete and not walk off left. Start: Start 2 metres left of 'Vicious Rumours' FA: Evan Bieske & Angel Black, 1991 | 15 | 10m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
2 |
Vicious Rumours
Avoidable but good - small groove with an odd fin down from Parsley etc. Doesn't look overprotected. FA: Jon Bassindale, James falla & Greg Pritchard, 1991 | 19 | 10m | |||||
3 |
Behold This Compost
Line 1 metre left of 'Parsley'. FA: Jon Bassindale, James Falla & Greg Protchard, 1991 | 19 | 12m | |||||
4 |
★★ Parsley
Crack on left arete, step left around small roof and up. FA: Kim carrigan & Louise Shepherd, 1984 | 21 | 12m | |||||
5 |
★ Sage
Seam just right of Parsley. Start at Rosemary then tend left. FA: Kim Carrigan & Louise Shepherd, 1984 | 21 | 12m | |||||
6 |
★ Rosemary
Next crack right of Sage with good holds around bulge. FA: Nic Taylor, 1983 | 18 | 10m | |||||
7 |
Thyme
Nice crack up righthand side of wall. Looks suspiciously harder than 16, especially the topout. FA: Nic Taylor, 1983 | 16 | 10m |
1.4. Pharos Boulders 37 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Bouldering
Lat / Long: -36.753213, 141.842403
description
Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Superman / Around the World Boulders
access issues
Reason for closure, Numerous important cultural heritage sites are evidence of the significance of Dyurrite for Wotjobaluk Peoples and the use of the area for thousands of years.
1.4.1. Superman Boulder 7 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -36.753129, 141.842835
description
Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Superman / Around the World Boulders
1.4.1.1. Road Face 4 routes in Feature
- Summary:
-
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ No. 1 | V3 | ||||||
2 | ★★ No. 2 | V4 | ||||||
3 | ★ Superman 1 | V1 | 4m | |||||
4 | ★ Superman 2 | V2 |
1.4.1.2. Back Wall 3 routes in Feature
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ V0
Classic climbing up over the bulge on incut jugs. | V0 | 4m | |||
2 | ★★★ Heartstopper | V4 | 8m | |||
3 | ★★ Arete L of crack as an eliminate | V3 |
1.4.2. Around the World Boulder 9 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Mostly Bouldering
Lat / Long: -36.753179, 141.842453
description
Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Superman / Around the World Boulders
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
2 |
★ Entrenched
Left to right traverse of trench and back wall of around the world boulder, taking the high line at the back corner. | V5 | ||||
3 |
★ The Final Chapter
Takes low line through roof that entrenched avoids via pinches. | V8 |
1.4.2.1. Road Face 7 routes in Feature
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -36.753143, 141.842454
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
V1 problem
Slabby start to jugs | V1 | ||||||
2 |
★★ Around the World
Start on the large LH jug, traverse the lip and break anti-clockwise. | V4 | 3m | |||||
3 |
Millers Tale
Sit start at the back of the roof. Straight out to jug on lip and up. | V10 | 3m | |||||
4 | Andy's Problem | V10 | 4m | |||||
5 |
★ V3 corner
Crank up via corner. | {US} V3 | ||||||
6 |
★★ V3 arete
From block up arete committing to finish | V3 | ||||||
7 | Problem 9 | V1 |
1.4.3. Monkey Puzzle Boulder 13 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Mostly Bouldering
Lat / Long: -36.753121, 141.842308
description
Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Superman / Around the World Boulders
1.4.3.1. Road Face 13 routes in Feature
- Summary:
-
Mostly Bouldering
|
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Scoot | |||||||
2 | ★ High traverse | V0+ | 4m | |||||
3 | ★ Monkey Puzzle | V3 | 3m | |||||
4 | ★ V0+ problem- Up prob big holds | V0+ | ||||||
5 | Arete | 26 V5 | 6m | |||||
6 | ★ Face | 18 | 7m | |||||
7 | 12) | |||||||
8 | ★★ 13) | V3 | 5m | |||||
9 | ★ 14) | V3 | 5m | |||||
10 | 15) | V3 | 5m | |||||
11 | 16) | |||||||
12 | 18) | |||||||
13 | 20) |
1.4.4. Finalgon Boulder 6 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -36.753441, 141.842380
description
Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Superman / Around the World Boulders
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★★ Dignan's | V4 | 6m | |||||
2 | Chunder at 31 | V5 | 7m | |||||
3 |
★★ V0+ high ball
Beautiful climbing on good holds | V0+ | 5m | |||||
4 |
★ V6 arete
Sit start arete and head straight up. | V6 | ||||||
5 |
★★ Finalgon
Left to right traverse. Optional sit start adds value but doesn't change grade. | V7 | ||||||
6 |
★★ Finalgon Centre Direct
Great sit start half way across Finalgon and direct through underclings and small crimp to top out in same line. | V8 |
1.4.5. Uphill from Finalgon 2 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
description
Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Superman / Around the World Boulders
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Megalodon
Takes the overhanging sharks tooth arête on the N edge of the large slab/boulder underneath Dazed and Confused (20) on the Pharos. FA: Mark Wood, 1 Jan 2017 | V2 | 5m | |||
2 | ★★★ 49. Undone L of Arete | V4 |