Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Pharos Area

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit.

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park - no dogs. No fires allowed Oct-Apr (inclusive).

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route

Left line on little wall 15 metres down and left of the start of 'Lamplighter'. Has been done on trad, now has two bolts and maybe you clip the first bolt of Raptures of the Steep

FA: Matthew Brooks & Josh Holko, 1992

Right-hand line on little wall with a rusty carrot. Used to have a fixed pin and two bolts but has now been rebolted. Steep thuggery to awkward topout. Soft for the grade. Now has 4RBs and a DRB lower off.

FA: Peter Stebbins, 1991

Start on the Back Wall of Pharos, 4m down and left of “The North East Ridge of the Pharos”. Offers the easiest access to the “Tennis Court”.

  1. 10m (3) Start at the foot of a chimney. Up and then traverse left to gain the northern face of the Pharos.

  2. 25m (4) Take the line of least resistance up easy series of steps until you gain a ledge that is at same height as Spiral Staircase’s first belay.

  3. 8m (2) Walk to Spiral Staircase’s first belay.

FA: Pete Holmes, Gabriel Holmes, Tex Proctor & Myles O'Dolan, 2 Apr 2016

Start: Start just left of 'Lamplighter' at slick, wide, left-leaning crack.

  1. 25m (17) Grovel along the crack. From ledge above go left and scramble up to higher ledge.

  2. 22m (17) Up right-facing flake. Continue up to big ledge.

  3. 35m (18) Starting just right of big roof go up on suspect rock and move right to arete. Follow nose up arete on right and then left, whichever is easier to dramatic mossy exit. This pitch used to finish up a deep line some way right of the arete.

FA: Jeremy Boreham & Glenn Tempest (alt), 1980

Originally trad, and originally started up the wide groove just left of Braindrops. When the route was sent into Argus the route name was rejected and thus never recorded. The bolts, lower-off, and direct start were added by Geoff Little in 2018.

From the ledge 12m up Lamplighter, 4m left of Braindrops. Up shallow right-facing corner past RB (20) to ledge. There's a stick clip on the ledge to clip the next bolt safely (please leave the stick there), then pull through roof seam and continue up wall past three more rings to a lower off (17m to ledge, 25m to ground).

FA: Geoff Little & Tony Dignan, 1979

Excellent steep jamming.

New anchor installed towards the end of pitch 1 (off left of Lamplighter belay ledge, tries but fails to be out of sight of Lamplighter, and may need a leaver 'biner), 24m to ground.

Start from ledge 12m up "Lamplighter", below steep flake on left wall. If you belay the crux from the ground, rope stretch brings a ledgefall more into play, which is manageable if you plug more gear.

  1. 23m (21) Up the steep left-leading flake-crack, take right line below the bush and up to the rap anchor. If continuing up pitch 2, continue 5m past the rap anchor via the corner on the R or the blunt arête on the L, to the next bigger ledge.

  2. 40m (20) Good wall climbing, up seams in gently overhanging wall. Then easily to top.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Jeremy Boreham & Rod Young., 1977

FA: Final pitch : Paul Deacon & Clive Curson, 2000

A nice alternative for when the final pitch of Hurricane Lamp Cracks, The Shroud, and Spiral Staircase is too busy or too sunny. From the Tennis Court, walk around right, delicately around the arete (staying on belay probably advisable) to a large ledge where Braindrops P1 ends. Climb the middle of the right-hand wall, staying well right of the deep split that Spiral Staircase would have stepped over. When the wall becomes vertical, stay left for the easiest line, or move right towards Lady Dihedral to make it a few grades harder. Tops out at the summit.

FA: Dave Scarlett & Camilla Kasker, 26 Aug 2018

1 10 30m
2 14 30m
3 15 18m

A good alternative finish to "Lamplighter". It originally had it's own second pitch, diverging left from "Lamplighter" after 8 metres, but it was fairly worthless.

Start: Start at the second belay of "Lamplighter".

FA: Greg Garnham, Chris Baxter & Paul Danials, 1981

1 10 30m
2 14 30m
3 13 18m

An excellent climb tiptoeing its way up the back wall with lashing of exposure. Provides some relief from the sun until late afternoon.

Start: Start on a ledge down low on the left where an obvious ramp leads up right.

  1. 30m (10) Following the ramp to its end, then left to big ledge.

  2. 30m (14) Up short corner on the right, old peg (back it up), then tend right up cracks to base of chimney. Near the top there are a couple of options but the best is an unlikely step right and up the face.

  3. 18m (13) Up chimney to roof, then chimney back out through roof to DBB.

FA: 1965

Start: Start at a flake 19 metres right of 'Lamplighter'.

  1. 20m (18) Fat, steep flake with hard steep crack immediately left of it. step left to join crack at niche then up into 'Lamplighter' below bulge. Over bulge and belay.

  2. 15m (22) Follow thin corner-flake above, just left of the start of 'Judgement Day', (this is the left side of the sort of pillar and up into white corner) to belay in 'Lamplighter' level with 'Parallels'.

  3. 25m (14) Walk off left is not possible! Continue up Lamplighter or downlead to anchors on Braindrops

FA: Glenn Tempest & Seamus Brennan, 1981

Another girdle of the back wall of the Pharos taking the next horizontal line above 'Judgement Day'.

Start: Start in 'Lamplighter' at the left end of the break.

  1. 25m (22) Move around corner and follow break to belay in 'Judgement Day'.

  2. 15m (25) Follow 'Judgement Day' to start but keep going right where it goes up. Continue right at this level to join 'Trojan' on the arete. Remember to leave back-runners for your second!

  3. 10m (-) Follow 'Trojan' to ledge.

FA: Pitch 1: Glenn Tempest, Seamus Brennan. Full route : Kim Carrigan & Chris Shepherd, 1981

1 10 27m
2 18 25m
3 19 15m

A superb rising traverse with some very balancy moves which also gives the seconder a good mental workout.

Shares the start and most of pitch one, with 'Lamplighter'.

  1. 27m (10) Follow the ramp of "Lamplighter" until it runs out. Up to ledge.

  2. 25m (18) Step up right and onto right wall. Mantleshelf then traverse right past a bolt into "Kingdom Come", then up to belay on small ledge.

  3. 15m (19) Traverse right, and up the diagonal crack to ledge. It is possible to move up from the traverse to the bolt on "Give me Convenience..." at about the same grade but it adds nothing to the route.

Rap back to ground from DRRB at top of P3.

FA: Chris Baxter & Chris Dewhirst (2 aids), 1973

Pure face climbing funkness. Originally graded 25 and worked on via some very dubious gear. Climbs the crazy groove 10m R of Lamplighter past 4 ringbolts to a DRB anchor. Super technical and sustained, with a variety of options available for undertaking the crux, none of them particularly a giveaway! Unconventional and classic moves make this one of the best routes at Arapiles.

FA: Mike Law, 1983

Exposed and daring with a run-out second pitch in exciting territory.

Start: Start as for "Second Coming"

  1. 22m (22) As for "Breaking Glass".

  2. 20m (24) Up twin cracks and over bulge. Move right and mantle small ledge. Up right to dodgy pin (backup with #5 RP), then right and up wall to ledge. 30 metre rappel. (Pin has been replaced with a bolt)

FA: Mark Moorhead & Ian Anger, 1980

Good, but most people will aim to do 'Open Season' instead.

Start: Start as for 'The Second Coming'.

  1. 20m (22) Follow 'The Second Coming' to corner and continue left to another tiny corner. Up this and left to belay below twin cracks (Open Season).

  2. 20m (22) Up 'Open Season' to horizontal break. Traverse diagonally up and left into 'Lamplighter'.

FA: Glenn Tempest & Lincoln Shepherd, 1981

Climb the 1st pitch of Second Coming until you encounter a hanging nose about 4m shy of the belay. Step left and boulder into a tiny corner before moving up to pass a small overlap which can be climbed direct or on its left. Slabby moves follow before a final easy crack leads to the anchors for open season. 'Small' RP's and small cams protect the moves above Second Coming however placing them on lead is a tad pokey and pumpy - you have been warned!

FA: Ingvar Lidman & Muki Woods, 2009

1 22 27m
2 21 30m

One of the best 22s at Araps. Start immediately L of Kingdom Come.

  1. 27m (22) Make sure of your gear in the very polished first 8m. From Kingdom Come take the rising line (awkward, polished, slightly tricky to protect) up L to a shallow corner. Up this to a mantle on Judgement Day traverse. From the top of the pedestal, up wall tending right to rejoin Kingdom Come at DRB anchor.

  2. 30m (21) Fantastic, airy and continuous. Step R into hanging crack and up to ledge. Move back L and up, keeping just L of the arête. Trad anchor, or go 8m L to DRB rap anchor above Lamplighter. A 70m rope reaches from the ground to this top anchor and back down to the 1st belay (just), allowing leaders to clean their own gear with belayer on the ground (with some sizeable sideways swings).

FA: Andrew Thompson & Ken Wilkinson, 1976

Hopelessly contrived even though it's actually a direct version of The Second Coming P1. There's logic to it but in practice it's all too close to both Second Coming and Kingdom Come.

Climb Second Coming until the move L on to the infamous mantle bulge. Instead go straight up to the Judgement Day traverse. From there, continue straight up, trying very hard not to go L into Second Coming, or R into Kingdom Come until you meet the final R-wards traverse of Second Coming P1. Cross this and head straight up through another steep section to easier ground near Lamplighter P3.

This and Come Again could easily be linked together into a (scary) route that is more independent and logical than either.

FA: Glenn Tempest & Greg Garnham, 1981

An old-fashioned line that rewards good technique and punishes thrashing.

Start below the major V-groove splitting the back of the Pharos. Described in 3 pitches but best done in 2 pitches now that there are bolted anchors at 20m and at the top.

  1. 12m (20) Hard start on polished slopers (it's advisable to place a wire (#9-10) with a long stick for protection; double check it as the slot is not foolproof) leads into the V-chimney. Bridge up to a small ledge on the right.

  2. 22m (18) Step left and up to cave.

  3. 18m (13) As for last pitch of Lamplighter.

FA: John Moore, Chris Dewhirst (several aids, rests). Aid was prgressively eliminated by Chris Dewhirst, Roger Aldrett & John Nitschke., 1966

Makes an alternative Last pitch to Shivers or a second pitch to Give Me Convenience Or Give Me Death. Start from the anchors of GMCoGMD and follow Shivers for a couple of moves heading towards the first bolt (Small cam useful). Hard moves past the bolt to the second bolt, Traverse slightly left and up into the pod and follow this directly up to the top.

FFA: adam demmert & Simon Madden, 4 Feb 2017

A complex route up a great bit of rock.

Start: Start as for "Kingdom come".

  1. 25m (22) Up "Kingdom Come" until able to gain the right-leading diagonal which is followed into "Judgement Day" and so to ledge.

  2. 30m (23) Traverse left across smooth wall to twin seams, then run it out up to ledge. Step right over bulge at a thin crack then traverse left to the arete and up into the orange corner. Exit left then up.

FA: Chris Shpeherd did second pitch with Malcolm Matheson & then the full route with Mark Moorhead., 1978

A great multipitch up the back of the Pharos at 22

  1. (22) First pitch of Shivers

  2. (16) Short offwidth groove on the right. Move back L to belay under third pitch of Trojan (2nd pitch of Trojan)

  3. (22) Third pitch of Trojan

  4. Smile.

Climb 'Shivers' until the 'Judgement Day' traverse line, then head straight up through the roof (bolt) and follow the seam, joining Shivers' 2nd pitch near the top.

Start: Start as for 'Shivers'.

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2005

Originally bolted by Chris Shepherd, this link up was pointed out to Zac by Ingvar Lidman who promptly bagged the first ascent. Originally a sandbag at 29 ("more like 30 or 31," Zac) apparently a previously unused hold and an easier sequence has been found that makes it "only" 29.

Start up Masada, before veering L past a couple of bolts and some hard compression moves (crux) at half height. to the Judgement Day traverse. Finish through crux of Give Me Convenience or Give Me Death.

FA: Zac Vertrees

Once considered the hardest route in the country when introduced by Carrigan as Australia's first grade 30. Now considered a tad easier by modern standards. Start as for 'Trojan' and at its crux move left across the corner and onto the exposed arete. Take some deep breaths then get fired up for an intensely fingery experience above the flared layback, not to mention some acute footwork. At the top of the corner, make a move left to a jug and gain the finishing crack. A final tricky exit leads to the belay.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

The direct finish to 'Masada'. Instead of branching out left at the top of the groove, continue straight up through another boulder problem (as if the original crux wasn't enough!)

FA: Nick White, 2000

Close Project, Starts from Trojans 2nd belay and heads up blank wall past 1 bolt

Set: adam demmert, 2018

A brilliant first pitch and the top pitch is pretty good as well, but is much easier. Many people do just the first pitch and do the upper pitches as a finish to Dazed And Confused. Louise Shepherd's impressive 1981 or 1982 onsight was the first Aussie female ascent at this grade.

  1. 36m (25) Climb the overhanging diagonal crack right of "Kingdom Come" to the top of the peapod. Step right and go up the crack to double ring-bolts at 20 metres. Continue to ledge.

  2. 10m (16) Move left and follow the wide crack to the next ledge. Go a few metres L.

  3. 25m (21) Thin jamming up the superb crack.

FA: John Moore put the route up in two stages. Pitch 1 :. Pitch 2, 3 : with Chris Dewhirst & Alec Campbell, 1966

Start R of Trojan below boulder. Up and traverse R and up. Direct start (bolted by Carrigan decades ago) remains unclimbed.

FA: Nathan Hoette

A girdle of the south face with old pegs and crumbly rock. The retro-bolt of Mind Arthritis 's 5th bolt has replaced a peg on this route.

Start: Start at the second belay of 'Trojan'.

FA: Glenn Tempest & Bob Killip, 1982


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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780987526427

This selected yet in depth guide, in its third edition in 2016, is a must for first timers or regulars to the "Pines". By Simon Mentz and Glenn Tempest. It features 1200 routes over 23 different areas as well as bouldering, history info on flora and fauna, plus heaps more.

Author(s): Gordon Poultney, Simon Carter

Date: 2013

ISBN: 9780987087461

444 of the best routes on the best stone on earth? Yes Please! Who has time for all those other wondering pitches anyway when Gordon Poultney and Simon Carter have picked out the classics and printed it in a pocket size handy guide with string attachment. You'll take it on the multipitches, you'll take it to read in the toilets, you'll take it everywhere!

Author(s): Chris Baxter & Glenn Tempest

Date: 1994

ISBN: 0646167308

A Guide to selected rockclimbs at Mt Arapiles,the Grampians and Mt Buffalo

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