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Routes in Back Wall for selected grade

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Showing all 4 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
23 Riot or Wrong

Left line on little wall 15 metres down and left of the start of 'Lamplighter'. Has been done on trad, now has two bolts and maybe you clip the first bolt of Raptures of the Steep

FA: Matthew Brooks & Josh Holko, 1992

Mixed trad 9m, 2
23 R Come Again

Climb the 1st pitch of Second Coming until you encounter a hanging nose about 4m shy of the belay. Step left and boulder into a tiny corner before moving up to pass a small overlap which can be climbed direct or on its left. Slabby moves follow before a final easy crack leads to the anchors for open season. 'Small' RP's and small cams protect the moves above Second Coming however placing them on lead is a tad pokey and pumpy - you have been warned!

FA: Ingvar Lidman & Muki Woods, 2009

Trad 30m
23 R Raspberries

Hopelessly contrived even though it's actually a direct version of The Second Coming P1. There's logic to it but in practice it's all too close to both Second Coming and Kingdom Come.

Climb Second Coming until the move L on to the infamous mantle bulge. Instead go straight up to the Judgement Day traverse. From there, continue straight up, trying very hard not to go L into Second Coming, or R into Kingdom Come until you meet the final R-wards traverse of Second Coming P1. Cross this and head straight up through another steep section to easier ground near Lamplighter P3.

This and Come Again could easily be linked together into a (scary) route that is more independent and logical than either.

FA: Glenn Tempest & Greg Garnham, 1981

Trad 42m
23 Shivers

A complex route up a great bit of rock.

Start: Start as for "Kingdom come".

  1. 25m (22) Up "Kingdom Come" until able to gain the right-leading diagonal which is followed into "Judgement Day" and so to ledge.

  2. 30m (23) Traverse left across smooth wall to twin seams, then run it out up to ledge. Step right over bulge at a thin crack then traverse left to the arete and up into the orange corner. Exit left then up.

FA: Chris Shpeherd did second pitch with Malcolm Matheson & then the full route with Mark Moorhead., 1978

Trad 55m, 2

Showing all 4 routes.

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