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description

A brilliant first pitch and the top pitch is pretty good as well, but is much easier. Many people do just the first pitch and do the upper pitches as a finish to Dazed And Confused. Louise Shepherd's impressive 1981 or 1982 onsight was the first Aussie female ascent at this grade.

  1. 36m (25) Climb the overhanging diagonal crack right of "Kingdom Come" to the top of the peapod. Step right and go up the crack to double ring-bolts at 20 metres. Continue to ledge.

  2. 10m (16) Move left and follow the wide crack to the next ledge. Go a few metres L.

  3. 25m (21) Thin jamming up the superb crack.

© (kieranl)

Route history

Aug 1966First ascent: John Moore put the route up in two stages. Pitch 1 :. Pitch 2, 3 : with Chris Dewhirst & Alec Campbell

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: -36.75388, 141.84067

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Grade citation

25 Assigned grade
25 *** ACA Route Register
25 Arapiles, Selected Climbs
25 RockGUIDE: Victoria
25 A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite
25 [24 - 25] grAId

ethic

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

inherited from Arapiles

Seasonality

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Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 88 from 71 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 8
Flash 10
Red point 16
Tick 12
Pink point 14
Top rope 1
Attempt 24
Target 3

Comment keywords

classic nice great cool wicked rad good fun super awesome stoked incredible enjoyable perfect amazing fantastic tricky ground fall fall sustained crux strenuous solid hard short epic weird face crack steep rest awkward undercling layback traverse bail slippery feet hands

Activity

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