★★★ Trojan 25

A brilliant first pitch and the top pitch is pretty good as well, but is much easier. Many people do just the first pitch and do the upper pitches as a finish to Dazed And Confused. Louise Shepherd's impressive 1981 or 1982 onsight was the first Aussie female ascent at this grade.

1. 36m (25) Climb the overhanging diagonal crack right of "Kingdom Come" to the top of the peapod. Step right and go up the crack to double ring-bolts at 20 metres. Continue to ledge.

2. 10m (16) Move left and follow the wide crack to the next ledge. Go a few metres L.

3. 25m (21) Thin jamming up the superb crack.

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

• Stick to the paths.

• Don't disturb the wildlife.

• Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

• Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).