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New Image Wall

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Description

The wall to the L of Rats Alley.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, New Image Area

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit. https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/-/media/project/pv/main/parks/documents/management-plans/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park---aboriginal-cultural-heritage-protections---october-2020.pdf

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park - no dogs. No fires allowed Oct-Apr (inclusive).

Descent notes

23m abseil from rap station above Hidden Secrets.

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Start with left moves off left corner of big boulder in the gully about 20 metres left of New Image. Climb to left of big horizontal then follow the gear to ledge near big guano patch. (25 metres) 14

3 metres left of guano stain climb through roof weakness and steep wall on good pro but tricky moves. Take care of loose boulders at your feet on belay ledge (20 metres to generous ledge) 18

From ledge take easy moves off right side of ledge moving up through slab with limited but sane protection. Tip toe on clean holds through black moss and head up stripe of clean rock saving a purple cam for an essential pocket. Belay past dead tree at base of shallow corner (35 metres) 15

Climb blocky corner left of roof. Easy climbing but careful of rock in places. (25 metres) 10

Rap off perfect bollard at back of pinnacle (5 metres). Walk off up to plateau and right towards lookout road, follow road to central gully track, bring shoes. Or walk and rap down to Pan Grove. (Antur is welsh for adventure)

FA: Hywel Rowlands & Anthony Claxton, 10 Oct 2020

Faintly initialled.

Start: 15m L of the prominent arch of 'Fault Line' is a ledge.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Ed Neve, 1973

Up the wall past some thin crux moves, finishing R of rooflet (which is a bit loose).

Start: 10m L of 'Fault Line' and 2 m R of hanging black rock a few metres off the ground.

FA: Peter Newman, Kim Carrigan & Mark Moorhead, 1979

A reachy start, then sustained climbing straight up on great rock.

Start: 8m L of 'Fault Line' at a brushed line, marked "NL".

FA: Mark Moorhead, Kim Carrigan & Peter Newman, 1979

The direct line up the clean wall, joining FL at the end of it's traverse. Perhaps add a few grades if you are under 5'9"?

FA: Gareth Llewellin & Jessie Rushbrooke, 26 Jan 2015

From jug, head up wall to L end of roof. Struggle around this, move R and up thin crack (spaced pro).

Start: 5m L of 'Fault Line' is a large jug.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Peter Newman & Kim Carrigan, 1979

Follow the arching line to the end of the roof. A reachy clip and a tricky crux make way for an easy finish up 3m R of 'New Image'

Start: At the base of the obvious line snaking up the crag.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Mark Moorhead & Peter Newman, 1979

Start left of 'Hidden Secrets'. Up rightwards ramp to corner, step right and head then up until above rooflet. Traverse left and finish up 'Loading Zone'.

FA: Douglas Hockly

Bouldery start up arete leads to a steep flake.

Start: 2m R of 'Fault Line' is a hanging arete.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Mark Moorhead & Peter Newman, 1979

Companion line to 'Hidden Secrets'

Start: 4m R of 'Hidden Secrets'.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Louise Shepherd & Peter Newman, 1979

Another bouldery start, this one with little to no gear. Up wall then finish up seam just L of top crack on 'Crooked Mile'. Good luck.

Start: 4m L of small chimney.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Louise Shepherd, 1981

Boulder up to horizontal break (a few grades harder). Those concerned about their ankles may prefer the chimney or rib on the right until you can join traverse line. Traverse L until crack, up broken line, overlap, wall to rap station on ledge.

Start: 2m L of short chimney.

FA: Louise Shepherd, Lincoln Shepherd & Kim Carrigan, 1981

Up CM to the break, then continue up black wall above. When it eases, move diagonally L to rap station.

Start: As for 'Crooked Mile'.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Lucas Trihey & Seamus Brennan. (Independent start was soloed by Kim Carrigan), 1981

Thin with some long moves on fantastic rock. 5 FHs to the right of Blackguard. Lower off.

FA: Gareth Llewellin & Geordie Webb, 4 Nov 2016

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