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Rats Alley

Access: Potential rock fall

Large (microwave size) loose rocks in the gully have fallen on 16/12/2020. Potentially need to clean out the area to make sure no more are loose.

See warning details and discuss

Created 5 weeks ago
13

Seasonality

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Description

The recess between Voodoo Buttress and the main wall.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, New Image Area

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Descent notes

25m abseil from the rap station above Blyth Street or 20m abseil from slings above Tarantula.

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Superseded by 'Striptease Parade' now, but this was a bold effort back in the day. From the 1978 Lockwood guide: "Necky as anything, committing and sparsely protected." Start: At L end of wall, on a sloping ledge.

FA: Andrew Thomson & Greg Child, 1976

Eliminates the escape from 'Glory Road', making for a much better route. Take note of the original route description for GR.

Start: At L end of ledge, as for 'Glory Road'.

FA: Craig Peacock & Malcolm Matheson, 1980

As for SP to pockets, then move R into 'Rats Alley'. Stay with this for 10m, then head straight up brushed steak (where 'Rats Alley' moves L) past bolt and hollow flake.

Start: As for 'Striptease Parade'.

FA: Nyrie Dodd & Louise Shepherd., 1985

A thin, almost-eliminate slab.

FA: Kieran Lawton, Gordon Poultney, Donna Bridge & Bec Pirzl, 2006

Committing slab climbing, but a highly enjoyable route. Unusual style for 'Arapiles'. Approach by scrambling up the easy corner.

Start: On the left hand wall, up the gully just before the chimney.

FA: Greg Child & Kim Carrigan, 1978

Up 'Rats Alley' for 15 or so metres, then scoot R (across Streetwise) to a welcome bolt. Keep your head together and climb straight up to the top.

Start: As for 'Rats Alley'.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Hugh Foxtrot, 1978

Climb straight up to the bolt on Blyth Street (after it's traverse), then continue to the top as for that. Do not fall.

Start: A few metres R of 'Rats Alley'.

FA: Warwick Baird, 2000

Thrash up the chimney to a crack on the R wall.

Start: Wander up the gully to the base of the chimney.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Geoff Uebergang, 1967

"For historical reasons only..."

Start: Near 'Nymph'.

FA: Norm Osborne, 1970

Original start was to bridge up chimney then swing onto R face with no gear! For some reason these days people clip the bolt on Crystal Vision and go L to the flake - still a bit bold. Up flake till it ends and move L and up to an exciting exit. Walk R to rap from 'Tarantula' anchor.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Kevin Lindorff & Peter Watson. (Mike Law climbed alt start in from R using a high runner in Tarantula), 1982

Climb the thin wall between CP and T. Place a runner in 'Tarantula' before starting.

FA: John Smoothy & Mark Colyvan, 1986

The steep and sustained L-facing corner. Great.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Iain Sedgman (originally with 2 aids & later freed by Kevin), 1975

Steep bolted wall R of 'Tarantula'. Nobody ever does it because it's chipped and the bolts look rubbish, hence nobody knows if there is a rap anchor at the top (is there a rap anchor at the top?)

FA: Ant Prehn, 1990

This cliff is unlocated

If you know where this cliff is then please take a minute to locate it for the climbing community. contact us if you have any issues.

Activity

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