Voodoo Buttress




Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Voodoo Area

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Descent notes

25m abseil from the rap stations above Wasp and Chinese Algebra. 30m abseil from the rap station above Voodoo. Or traverse R and scramble down the back into Voodoo Gully. If you go all the way to the summit rap off down the back from slings.

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route

Struggle up black crack, past overhang, then grey corner to ledge on R. Climb wall above to summit, it's possible to traverse off R to rap anchor on 'Chinese Algebra'.

Start: L of blank orange wall is a black crack.

FA: The Rosandra Alpine Club, 1965

FFA: Nic Taylor. (Keith Lockwood eliminated some aid in 1969), 1975

‘The archetypical wall of impossible-looking rounds’ – Louise Shepherd guide. Very sustained. Up arête 1m right of PV to prominent undercling, then reach to sloper. Crux moving past this to a small horizontal slot (bombproof double RPs), then onwards up slope-riddled slab. Traverse right to First Blood anchor.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1986

The blank looking beautiful buttress left of Chinese Algebra

FA: Alister Robertson, 19 Apr 2013

Move up and L to arete. Climb just R of arete and finish at rap anchor (or continue to the top in a 48m pitch).

Start: A few metres R of arete facing Caslte Crag.

FA: Peter Morris & Ben Maddison, 1977

FFA: Kevin Lindorff., 1977

Climb straight up middle of wall past 2 carrots.

Start: As for 'Chinese Algebra'.

FA: Clive Curson, 2001

Not the line with the carrot bolts just R of CA.

FA: Andrew Collins & Paula Keeno, 1998

Girdle of 'Voodoo Buttress'.

Start: As for CA.

  1. 25m (21) Up CA to ledge.

  2. 30m (21) Traverse R until below Wasp flake. Up and R into 'Wurlitzer' to ledge.

  3. 45m (21) Continue R on ledge, at end move up to 10m, then move R to arete and up to top.

FA: Louise Shepherd, Kim Carrigan (alt) & Neil Smith, 1979

Up crack to bulge, step R into 'Voodoo' (at kink). Head up (tricky) and L into easy crack.

Start: 1m L of 'Voodoo' is a crack.

FA: Jim Van Gelder & Colin Reece, 1979

Start: 3m R of 'Chinese Algebra' at dog-leg crack.

  1. 35m (18) Up smooth bulgy rock, past some old pins, then take RH crack to ledge (rap-anchor - 30m).

  2. 20m (16) Easy short wall to ledge.

  3. 10m (18) Crack through summit overhang. Rap slings - 60m to ground or 30m to P1 anchors.

FA: Rosandra Alpine Club, 1965

FFA: , David Shirra & early's, 1970

Overhanging L arete next to pitch 3 of Voodoo.

Start: Ledge after pitch 2 of 'Voodoo'.

FA: Malcolm Matheson & Dave Mudie, 1989

Roof R of pitch 3 of 'Voodoo'.

Start: Ledge after pitch 2 of 'Voodoo'.

FA: James Falla & Dave Mudie, 1989

A harder variant start to Mother's Son. Simon Mentz has done a more direct version finishing up the crack instead of moving R into Mother's Son (still joins Mother's Son at the ledge and they share the same top half)

Start: 2m L of Mother's Son.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Eddy Ozols & Louise Shepherd, 1979

Tricky to start but soon gets easier.

FA: Richard Curtis unseconded, 1978

Straight up pocketed corner to flake. Take LH fork through the bulge.

Start: At base of diagonal line uphill from 'Voodoo'.

FA: Keith Bell & Keith Lockwood, 1974

Half way up 'Wasp' there is a large flake leading right. Follow this to join 'Warped'.

Climb the prominent R-leaning diagonal line to join 'Wurlitzer' below roof. Up to roof, then break L, turn roof and up face.

Start: As for Wasp.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Eddy Ozols, 1979

Up then L into line below roof. Around this on R, then up to rap-anchor.

Start: 10m R of Wasp.

FA: Keith Bell, David Shirra & Ray Lassman, 1971

You might get to smell it yourself if you fall off this one...

Start: 4m L of 'Sound Chaser'.

FA: Chris Shepherd & Mark Moorhead, 1981

Up to and through overhang. Join original and finish as for that. This is 22 in Lou's guide.

Start: 2m L of original.

FA: Chris Shepherd & Rod Young, 1980

Up short flake. Move L, then up and L more to bush. Up steep loose crack above. Heading straight up wall after flake at start is 19.

Start: Under R end of grey prow uphill of Wasp.

FA: Glenn Tempest & Kevin Lindorff, 1977

Up SC, then move R into seam (bolt).

Start: As for 'Sound Chaser'.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1985

Boulder up on slopes and crimpers, till you can traverse L for 4m and into obvious corner (Spider LH Variant).

Start: Start 3m L of 'Spider'.

FA: Michael Woodrow & Marc Sydnot, 1997

Up black nose of buttress, passing steepening at top on L.

Start: At north shoulder of buttress.

FA: Unknown, 2000

Was the original route.

Start: At north shoulder of buttress.

FA: Ray Lassman, Keith Bell & David Shirra, 1971

Up face (tricky to place RPs, then bolt) to ledge. Step R and up crack.

Start: A couple metres R of 'Spider'.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Meg Sleeman, 1992

Start: As for original.

FA: Michael O'Reilly, Heather Phillips & Melanie O'Reilly, 1997

Swing L (hard), up seam to break, finish up SD.

Start: At 'Blockwork Orange'.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Meg Sleeman, 1993

Follow 'Artifact' for 5 metres to the ledge. Then step down and right and climb wall left of arete.

Start: Start as for 'Artifact'.

FA: Hoskins & Pritchard, 1996

Up leaning corner to roof, then exit L (at break).

Start: Up the gully from previous routes and short corner crack.

FA: Peter Newman, 1980

As for original to break, then climb through roof past bolt.

Start: As for BO.

FA: Brian Fish, 1982

Short crack through overlap.

Start: 5m R of BO.

FA: Wendy Eden & Jo Williams, 1994

Up crack.

Start: Opposite 'Sound Chaser' (on other side of gully).

FA: Louise Shepherd & Kim Carrigan, 1979


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