Looking Glass Wall




The water-streaked slab on the L up the gully behind Voodoo Buttress.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Voodoo Area

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route

Orange streak 10 metres right of 'Blockwork Orange'. Finish up crack in headwall.

FA: Allan Hope & Peter Watling, 1991

Brushed streak at left end of the main wall. Rock Bollard for sling or abseil

Start: Start 5 metres left of Hard And Fast, about 25 metres right of 'Doo Voo'.

FA: Lincoln Shepherd & Natalie Green

Climb straight up the slab. Finish up on jugs. No Pro.

Start: Start immediately R of 'Happy Balance'.

FA: Patrick Alseby, 1998

Contrived and poorly protected.

FA: Mike Law & Chris Baxter, 1976

The lovely water-streak 5 metres right of 'Happy Balance' has a hard, poorly protected start.

FA: Chris Baxter, Mike Law & Francine Gilfedder, 1976

Follow intermittent cracks on wall. Finish up lovely twin orange and black streaked rock through short roof. Goes straight to new abseil anchors at 23 m

Start: Start between 'Hand Job' and Menage A Trois.

FA: Darren Williams & Kylie Burford, 1995

Great climbing up the green crack 3 metres right of 'Hand Job'.

FA: Chris Baxter, Mike Law & Mike Stone, 1976

A bouldery, unprotected start leads to easier climbing up the centre of the next water-polished area. For added excitement, veer right through the bulge higher up.

FA: Mike Law & Chris Baxter, 1976

Centre of next water-polished area. Bouldery start eases.

FA: Mike Law (solo), 1981

Climb the corner crack behind big dead tree until it eases. There are two options : either, diagonal leftwards on big holds to a nice finish and traverse off to rap anchor,

or continue up corner until it ends, move right, climb short corner and step up left over bulge and continue to top (58 metres, original route)

FA: Chris Baxter, Mike Law & Francine Gilfedder, 1976

Start 1 metre right of 'Rock Soff' and boulder up.

FA: Mike Law (solo), 1981

Up white streak to short crack in face. Up clean rock and over wee roof.

Start: Start 5 metres right of 'Rock Soff' in middle of white streak.

FA: Mike Law & Mike Stone, 1976

Climb streak all the way past ledges.

Start: Start about 15 metres right of 'Hot Tip' at another water streak

FA: Keith Lockwood & Halvard Andersen-Dalheim, 1981


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