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1 12 25m
2 14 20m
3 16 18m
4 16 32m

description

Fantastic climb.

Much of this climb remains in the shade until mid-afternoon so it can be feasible on a hot day. Running the first two pitches together can keep the belay in the shade until the top.

Despite the daunting appearance a mega-rack isn't required, but make sure you have a couple of bolt hangers and a #4 cam

  1. 25m (12) Climb the slab just right of the corner until you can move left onto a large ledge.

  2. 20m (14) Follow the main corner for a bit, then the left-hand line to a cosy cave.

  3. 18m (16) Up 4 metres into chimney below roof (old bolt). Traverse out right and move up into corner and another old bolt. On up corner to small stance and two pitons. If you want some shade, traverse left to a cave on the arete.

  4. 32m (16) Fairly sustained (FH) until past the overhang. Easily up slab.

© (koala)

Route history

6 Mar 1966First ascent: John Fahey, Peter Jackson, Ted Batty & Bob Bull

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: -36.75165, 141.83671

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Grade citation

12,14,16,16 Assigned grade
16 OZ Rock
16 RockGUIDE: Victoria
16 *** ACA Route Register
16 Arapiles, Selected Climbs
16 [16 - 17] grAId
17 A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite

ethic

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

inherited from Arapiles

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 90 from 505 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 301
Flash 12
Red point 22
Solo 2
Tick 206
Pink point 1
Attempt 15
Target 25

Comment keywords

challenging difficult desperate pumped tough hard sweat tired solid crux sustained struggle polished jugs slabby bridging smooth slippery short chimney flake fist crazy rest awkward roof crack interesting traverse jamming face offwidth pinch steep weird thrutchy epic easy cruisy dry bail layback exciting super stoked fabulous rad cool brilliant magic sweet awesome perfect great superb beautiful ripper amazing good fun lovely fantastic classy incredible enjoyable classic nice exposed scary committing terrifying intimidating runout tricky

Activity

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