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1 12 25m
2 14 20m
3 16 18m
4 16 32m

description

Fantastic climb.

Much of this climb remains in the shade until mid-afternoon so it can be feasible on a hot day. Running the first two pitches together can keep the belay in the shade until the top.

Despite the daunting appearance a mega-rack isn't required, but make sure you have a couple of bolt hangers and a #4 cam

  1. 25m (12) Climb the slab just right of the corner until you can move left onto a large ledge.

  2. 20m (14) Follow the main corner for a bit, then the left-hand line to a cosy cave.

  3. 18m (16) Up 4 metres into chimney below roof (old bolt). Traverse out right and move up into corner and another old bolt. On up corner to small stance and two pitons. If you want some shade, traverse left to a cave on the arete.

  4. 32m (16) Fairly sustained (FH) until past the overhang. Easily up slab.

© (koala)

Route history

6 Mar 1966First ascent: John Fahey, Peter Jackson, Ted Batty & Bob Bull

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: -36.75165, 141.83671

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Grade citation

12,14,16,16 Assigned grade
16 OZ Rock
16 Arapiles, Selected Climbs
16 RockGUIDE: Victoria
17 A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite
17 [16 - 17] + grAId

ethic

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

inherited from Arapiles

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 91 from 567 ratings.

Difficulty - 16

Soft Touch
Easy
Average
Hard
Sandbag

Based on 2 ratings.

Suggested Grade

16
17

Based on 2 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 327
Flash 13
Red point 27
Solo 3
Tick 231
Pink point 1
Attempt 18
Target 25

Comment keywords

exposed terrifying runout scary intimidating tricky committing crazy smooth awkward cruisy pinch offwidth slippery layback interesting face polished chimney bridging jamming dry crack jugs roof feet thrutchy epic fist easy slabby rest flake short steep weird bail traverse difficult hard desperate tough struggle sweat crux challenging solid pumped strenuous sustained tired enjoyable cool lovely fantastic ripper super awesome perfect great satisfying fun brilliant good pleasant sweet rad classic nice superb beautiful fabulous magic amazing incredible classy exciting stoked

Selected Guidebooks all

Author(s): Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780987526427

This selected yet in depth guide, in its third edition in 2016, is a must for first timers or regulars to the "Pines". By Simon Mentz and Glenn Tempest. It features 1200 routes over 23 different areas as well as bouldering, history info on flora and fauna, plus heaps more.

Author(s): Gordon Poultney, Simon Carter

Date: 2013

ISBN: 9780987087461

444 of the best routes on the best stone on earth? Yes Please! Who has time for all those other wondering pitches anyway when Gordon Poultney and Simon Carter have picked out the classics and printed it in a pocket size handy guide with string attachment. You'll take it on the multipitches, you'll take it to read in the toilets, you'll take it everywhere!

Author(s): Chris Baxter & Glenn Tempest

Date: 1994

ISBN: 0646167308

A Guide to selected rockclimbs at Mt Arapiles,the Grampians and Mt Buffalo

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