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description

A fantastic climb with three fantastic pitches of very different styles.

Start: At a hard move to large dish, avoidable

  1. 40m (21) Up slabs vaguely left, to eventually drift right through a fingery, thin section to a belay ledge and rap station.

  2. 20m (21) Head up from the left side of the belay ledge, through a serious section requiring RP's then through bulge and drift left to meet 'Skink', belay possible and best to avoid rope drag.

  3. 30m (21) From the belay in 'Skink' traverse out left, heel hook onto the slab then head straight up. Small opposing wires can be used in the horizontals if no micro cams are available.

© (bomber pro)

Route history

26 Sep 1982First ascent: Robin Miller & Kim Karrigan

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: -36.75165, 141.83671

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Grade citation

21 R Assigned grade
17 [16 - 18] -- grAId
21 OZ Rock
21 R *** ACA Route Register
21 Arapiles, Selected Climbs
21 RockGUIDE: Victoria
21 A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite

ethic

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

inherited from Arapiles

Seasonality

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Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 88 from 101 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 60
Flash 3
Red point 2
Tick 34
Top rope 5
Attempt 2
Target 8

Comment keywords

epic pockets crack face feet crimpy flake awkward mantle roof steep rest easy short technical fiddly crazy terrifying committing scary tricky fall runout nice exciting sweet good beautiful awesome amazing great stoked fantastic perfect brilliant classic fun pumped struggle tough strenuous hard crux

Activity

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