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Description

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Pharos Gully Area

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit.

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park - no dogs. No fires allowed Oct-Apr (inclusive).

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Takes the seam immediately left of Miss Moneypenny, ie the left side of the Turquoise/Green Shirt wall. Best done as a variant finish to Miss Moneypenny as the start is undistinguished and poorly protected.

Either climb the grey wall, moving left until able to chimney and then up to join MissMoneypenny below second bolt, or climb Miss Moneypenny to this point. Now, ignore the bolt and follow the line slightly diagonally left.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Norm Booth & Kieran Loughran, 22 Dec 2018

Consistent climbing for the grade. Starts 10m L of Turquoise, takes 2 #3 camalots (or equivalent), a #0.2 is handy to protect clip at second bolt. Up to lower off.

FA: Geoff Little & Maureen Little, 2017

Start as for Moneypenny, step R at 4m up to big horizontal (#3 cam) past 2 bolts to lower off.

FA: Geoff Little & Maureen Little, 2017

A good discovery. Start through bulge 3m R of Moneypenny, trend R to detached block (has been pinned), through bulge past bolt to lower off.

FA: Geoff Little & Maureen Little, 2017

Hard to get good gear and you're close to a groundfall for some time.

Start 3 metres left of 'Turquoise' at short flake.

From top of short flake some tricky moves lead to left-leading diagonal.

FA: Lincoln Shepherd & Phil Bigg, 1981

An attractive wall but hard to protect and has easier unprotected section.

Start 3 metres left of 'Turquoise' at short flake as for Into The Lipstick.

Climb flake and straight up bulging wall above to a ledge. Continue up easier, unprotected wall on left to join Turquoise near top.

FA: Ant Prehn & Rod Young, 1983

A long, absorbing lead. The top wall - which is the crux - has a loose flake you have to pull on above a small wire that won't keep you off the ledge. Beware!

Start on the south arete of the buttress, a metre left of the shallow orange corner of Turquoise.

Over bulge and follow weakness up left to ledge. Move right and up corner, crossing Turquoise then straight up middle of right wall, bold to get established, then short hand-crack.

FA: Rod Young & Ant Prehn, 1983

Follow Green Shirt to just after the ledge but then break left following diagonal line past bolt. Finish right of the end of Turquoise.

FA: Gareth Llewellin & Rob Saunders, 18 Mar 2015

Good start and finish. Crosses Green Shirt and climbs the L seam and arete off the ledge. Runout up the slab above this.

Start: Start at south arete of buttress at a shallow orange corner.

FA: Rod Young & Phillip McMillan, 1979

Start up either 'Turquoise' or 'More of the Same' to gain the streak up the middle of the upper wall (between 'Green Shirt' and 'More of the Same'). A good RP 3 protects the moves up to the bolt. Step R under the bolt and climb the tricky gray wall up and slightly R to the top. You can reach back L to a lower-off, which now services 'Green Shirt', 'Better Than That', 'More of the Same' and 'All the Same'.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Karen Tempest & Michael Hampton, 21 Sep 2016

Doesn't have to be a solo like the first ascent but not a lace-up. Include a big cam and RPs.

Start just right of Turquoise and follow the rounded black arete.

FA: Jon Muir (solo), 1983

Start up Shadows and Light and finish up More of the Same. Great climbing and more consistent than Shadows and Light.

A beautiful, overhanging arete, with a rest on the left that's hard to ignore.

Follow seam (small wires) up left side of glorious orange nose and continue past bolts.

FA: Mark Moorhead, 1981

Very reachy.

Climb the wall left of White Heat.

FA: Mark Moorhead. Chris Shepherd had earlier climbed the upper section as a variant (26) to "White Heat", 1983

A good, pumpy jamming testpiece.

Jam inverted staircase left of the big chimney, 3 metres right of Shadows and Light.

FA: Greg Child & Tim Beaman, 1976

Start up White Heat for 8m. Move right eventually joining the final crack of Ephemeral. Bolt has been chopped beware.

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 6 Mar 2015

The poorly protected crux means that the direct finish is the usual way.

The left-facing flake right of White Heat with tricky, poorly protected moves left under the roof.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Kim Carrigan, 1978

A subtle line requiring a bit of effort to protect adequately.

Start as for Ephemeral .

Up short corner to flake and continue straight up the wall.

FA: Paul Hoskins, Chris & Lincoln Shepherd, 1982

Crank up the wall 2 metres right of "Ephemeral"

FA: Rod Young & Chris Shepherd, 1979

Left side of wall, straight up to ledge. Crucial cam placements aren't bombproof.

Start: Start on the grey wall just R of 'Four Sticks'.

FA: Richard Smith, Greg Caire, Sir Michael Hampton & Matilda, 2000

Start on the black rock 3m R of I'll Get By

This takes the line up from left facing flake. Again seems to rely on less than ideal cams.

FA: Richard Smith & Greg Caire, 2000

Lovely buttress on right side of chimney-gully.

Go further up the chimney than Open Road, bridge up, climb corner and roof on the R wall

FA: Jon Muir & Greg Pritchard, 1993

A long pitch taking the right wall of the big chimney to an exciting finish. Protection is sparse in the easier lower half.

Up to ledge then bridge up the wide chimney for as far as possible before pulling onto the right wall. Follow the corner until hands are level with a prominent scoop then traverse right for 2 metres. Go up wall, step right and finish straight up. To get off, scramble to top of buttress and over to the rap chain of Fly by Night.

FA: Greg Child & Natalie Green, 1978

A graceful flake on beautiful, slick orange rock. Be careful with gear placement as a couple of people have hit the ground after stripping all of their pieces after the fixed gear. Double ropes would help to reduce the effect of the change of rope direction.

Also, the peg is considered dodgy.

Bridge up chimney to bolt then right past peg and up flake and pumpy wall. Finish at lower-off for In Lemon Butter.

FA: Coral Bowman & Chris Paisker, 1978

Beautiful sustained climbing up the arete and wall right of "Snowblind". The finish feels a bit bold, running out above small RPs, but there's solid gear below.

Tricky undercling on the arete leads to lovely face moves up the seams.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Kevin Lindorff & Greg Child, 1978

Thin, reachy and run-out.

Face 3 metres right of In Lemon Butter with a step right in the middle.

FA: Warwick Baird & Tony Marian, 1979

Middle of buttress to tiny corner and overlap. Finish straight up.

Start: Start at middle of buttress right of wide crack just right of 'Bland'.

FA: Keith Egerton & Chris Baxter, 1986

Cutting loose on the jug is suitably exciting as long as it stays put!

From bald arete right of Boy's Own, traverse left and cut loose on hollow, flat-topped jug.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Tony Marian & Jim Van Gelder, 1979

Hard to get gear.

Steep diagonal crack leading right from base of Hypnosis.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Tony Marian & Jim Van Gelder, 1979

Nice slab and steeper bit R of Changin' Times - toproped only

Up nicest section of wall getting what gear you can.

Start: Start: 4m right of 'Hypnosis'.

FA: Richard Smith, Greg Pritchard & Paul Hoskins., 2000

Clip bolt runner then climb up and right, a bit boldly, to arete.

Start: Start on the right wall of the side gully.

FA: Lincoln Shepherd & Phil Bigg, 1981

Head up rightish to small pod then back left above this and straight up to horizontal break. Take thin seam through headwall.

Start: Start: Above 'Nexus' there is a wall with no routes (until now). It faces the Pharos. Start in the middle of the wall.

FA: Paul Hoskins, Greg Pritchard & Richard Smith., 2000

Fiddly gear. You have to love flaring RP placements.

Go up just right of the left arete of the main gully and past a grey snout. At top bulge go left, right or mantle direct on small ledge (that should exhaust all options).

FA: Rod Young & Colin Reece, 1979

Start up the poorly protected seam of Tomorrow, then L and up (gear is good from here).

FA: Rod Young & Chris Shepherd, 1979

Varied and tricky. The crackline about 3m R of the arete (No Quarter). The initial seam is poorly protected and not super easy.

FA: Phillip McMillan & Rod Young, 1979

Up incipient crack 2 metres right of "Tomorrow". Reach right to pass bulge, veering left at the top.

FA: Rod Young & Kevin Otten, 1979

Up the line just R of Pattern Juggler and L of Milk Blood. Just toproped.

"Milk blood to keep from running out". Great crack which will take as much gear as you can hang around to place.

Start at the clean finger crack 2 metres right of "Pattern Juggler" and 10 metres below the boulder-choke.

Crack until it runs out, step left and struggle up finishing slot.

FA: Chris Peisker & Coral Bowman, 1978

A really good alternative to the finishing slot on "Milk Blood".

Step right at the top of the initial crack and up the unlikely face.

FA: Jon Muir & Geoff Little, 1985

Tenuous line 3 metres right of 'Milk Blood'

FA: Jon Muir & Geoff Little, 1985

Could be a poxy delight if you break a hold and crater.

Wall 3 metres right of More Moves, just below the boulder-choke.

FA: Ant Prehn & Jeff Lamb, 1980

The next climbs are on the righthand side of the gully near the boulder choke. Shade from 10:30-2 in height of summer and then late afternoon.

Doesn’t look much but quite enjoyable. The flake on the headwall sounds hollow but appears well attached at the base; use your judgement. Can belay above or below the chockstone but above will reduce drag. From the top of the chockstone, step left and up the wide, slabby groove then steeply up the headwall. At the top move right to the anchor above Kempt (watch out for detached blocks on the ledge).

FA: Kieran Loughran & Norm Booth, 5 Jan 2019

Nice climbing up the thin crack and face. A brass offset covering the #4-5 RP size is useful. Start immediately below the boulder choke, below a thin crack on the right wall. Bridge between the boulder and face to base of crack. Crack and continuation seam. Step right at headwall and up juggy crack to ledge and up to anchor.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Keith Lockwood, 8 Jan 2019

This is pretty good. Start a few metres down right of the boulder choke, opposite Pixies Delight. Move right on a ledge to base of diagonal flake/ramp (FH). Follow flake diagonally left until it runs out at FH. Move left to and up seams on grey face (this is just right of the crack and seams of Kempt) to the headwall. Up righthand crack moving slightly right then back left at top (careful with hollow block on left). Easy ground to anchor above Kempt.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Keith Lockwood, 19 Jan 2019

A bit obscure and acually on the right-hand (eastern) side of Lower Yesterday Gully.

Past the second buttress is a gully capped by a massive chockstone (ie gully beteen Hypnosis and Nexus). Opposite this is a large tree below a short wall. Just above this short wall is a square-cut notch in the east wall of Yesterday Gully. On the left wall of the notch are 2 little routes. You can also scramble through here to get to the base of Mentor but it is better approached from The Pinnacle Area.

Steeply up right on jugs, then back left and up jugs.

Start: Start just right of the middle of the wall.

FA: John Lattanzio, Tim Ball & Greg Pritchard, 1984

Follow corner on right arete of wall and through bulge.

FA: Tim Ball, John Lattanzio & Greg Pritchard, 1984

The next climbs are on the little wall shaded by the tree. DEscend as for the scamble to Cosmosis, or abseil.

The bulgy left side of the wall, to the left-hand summit. The tree helps as hold and pro.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Kieran Loughran, 19 Jan 2019

The central seam, past a downward-pointing tongue of rock.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 29 Dec 2018

Corner on the right, branching slightly left to finish up the right-hand summit.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 29 Dec 2018

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