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Upper Gully

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Description

Wonderful area that needs to get more attention.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Upper Yesterday Gully Area

© (jgoding)

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Approach

Yesterday 'Gully' is blocked by a chockstone forming a rock-step just past "Milk Blood". This area covers all of the climbs above this step. Scrambling up and down past this isn't too hard but is awkward with a pack, especially in descent.

Many of the routes can also be approached from above, which can be convenient if you drive to the top, but familiarity with the area is required as this would be almost impossible to describe.

© (jgoding)

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

High up to the left of Upper Yesterday Gully. Approach from Yesterday Gully by scrambling leftwards up a gully just above the boulder choke. The routes left of Wishful Thinking can also be reached by traversing around a ledge system from the base of Spellbinder in Pharos Gully.

Hand crack 12 metres left of "Trampled Underfoot".

FA: Tim Beaman & Sylvia Lazarnick, 1976

Start as for No Room For Mistakes and hand traverse right into overhung line past piton.

FA: Rod Young & Stuart Camps, 1976

Crack with overhung start 8 metres left of 'Trampled Underfoot'.

FA: Rod Young & Stuart Camps, 1983

Useless. Twin cracks 5 metres left of Trampled Underfoot.

FA: Chris Baxter & Francine Gilfedder, 1976

Awesome major corner that sees few ascents. Large gear is needed.

Start: Start below the corner forming the left side of the 'Slabocide' wall.

  1. 15m (18) Wide roof and up to belay in gully.

  2. 15m (18) Traverse out right across wall and go up.

FA: Greg Child, Matt Taylor, Tim Beaman & Sylvia Lazarnick, 1976

A "convenient bundle of fun" taking in bits of a few other routes.

Start: Normally started as for "Wishful Thinking" but can also be started from the base of "Trampled Underfoot", below a fixed hange a few metres right of that climb.

From gully, pull onto wall and up vertical crack to major horizontal. Clip FH then hard moves up and right past another FH. Onwards past some natural gear and another bolt up higher.

FA: Paul Deacon & Nick Sutter, 2000

Serious route which appears to require a long reach and has a suspect grade. Rarely, if ever repeated and you would probably need blinkers to avoid clipping the bolts on "Flesh-Eating Pixies".

Start below block jammed in the horizontal break right of "Trampled Underfoot". This block is a metre or two right of the first fixed hanger of "Flesh-Eating Pixies".

Move up from jammed block to an undercling (looks desperate) then veer left, crossing "Flesh-Eating Pixies" into flake.

FA: Roger Greatrick & Rod Young, 1983

Looks quite dramatic. The bolts are carrots and the first is pretty rusty.

Start 1 metre right of "A Touch Of The Vapours".

Awkward moves lead right past 2 bolts and a fixed wire.

FA: Rod Young, 1983

This is probably now the first bit of Flesh-Eating Pixies.

The left-hand line up wall directly below 'Slabocide'.

FA: Paul Aubrey & Glenn Tempest. John Marshall dispensed with bridging in., 1991

Orange face up left from the rock-step. Rap anchor above Fever Pitch.

A good roof - the crackline just R of the arete. You can also take the flake to the R at the same grade.

FA: Mike Law, 1977

Rarely climbed. Originally raved about but the crux section has to fight to avoid easier climbing and there can be issues with an active beehive.

Start: Start in the gully below the prominent orange wall at the left of two right-facing corners.

  1. 14m (-) Up corner for 7 metres before veering left to platform.

  2. 25m (22) Step right and up 3 metres to a small flake. Undercling left on pockets, then go straight up subtle line, ignoring easier climbing on either side.

FA: Greg Child & Kevin Lindorff (alt), 1978

Superb, intricate and sustained climbing. Originally done as two pitches but best done in a single pitch.

Start at the R-facing corner 2 metres right of "Grand Central".

Up the right-facing corner to ledge. From the ledge, delicately move over bulge. Clip bolt and zoom through a peg (natural pros available) to an easier ground. Stay R of the crack to avoid loose rock.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Kevin Lindorff (alt), 1978

... a good crack too.

Bridge up the chimney right of Fever Pitch and pull onto the wall below a short crack. Steeply up crack to good holds. More hard moves lead up to and around flake, then continue up crack and face.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Kevin Lindorff, 1978

Scary start.

Approach via gully and chimney right of Fever Pitch. The arete right of Not Just A Pretty face from top of approach chimney.

FA: Glenn Tempest & Eddy Ozols, 1980

Middle of face opposite 'Flash Gordon' and left of 'Haphazard'.

FA: Keith Egerton (solo), 1984

Climb the ramp just left of Haphazard for 7 meters to ledge, then climb wall directly with tricky moves at the top.

FFA: Paul Deacon & Pat Ford, 22 Oct 2018

Climb the ramp just left of Haphazard for 5 meters, step right and climb the face 2 meters left of the arete to the top.

FFA: Paul Deacon & Pat Ford, 22 Oct 2018

The overhanging, cracked arete up the gully from Lunatic and across gully north of "Flash Gordon".

FA: Kim Carrigan, John Smoothy & Tony Dignan, 1979

This is in the hanging gully between Lunatic and Blue Hawaii and is approached by scrambling down from Haphazard. Lefthand of two lines left of the original start to 'Lunatic', finishing up arete.

FA: Tony Dignan & Kim Carrigan, 1984

Seam just right of Psychotic in hanging gully left of the arete of 'Lunatic' in gully. Continue up exciting face moves. A runner in 'Psychotic' protects crux.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

From the rock-step in the main part of Yesterday gully, this is the first pillar on the left in the main gully. From the top of the routes, walk to the Blue Hawaii rap anchor.

Thin crack below left arete of 'Future Past' pillar. From ledge above crack go up arete, finishing on right.

FA: Rod Young & Chris Shepherd, 1980

Go up to and around an overhang. From ledge above, finish up 'Future Past'.

Start: Start 3 metres left of 'Future Past'.

FA: Chris Shepherd & Rod Young

Cut loose on big block about 2 metres right of 'The Last Resort'. Pass right end of small cave and go straight up to finish just left of arete.

Start: Start 2 metres left of 'Future Past'

FA: Keith Egerton, 1984

Climb right-hand side of pillar and traverse left above overhang to small cave. Step out and go straight up to top.

FA: Rod Young & Trevor Dance, 1977

Quite pleasant really.

Start up Future Past and climb directly up, keeping about 2 metres right of the blunt arete, to the top.

FA: Keith Egerton (solo), 1984

Start up Yesterday’s Rooster. Just past first bolt on YR step left under small roof. Blast straight up wall past another bolt, and tending left at the top.

FFA: James Wynne, 2015

Up and left to top of corner from which BH escapes. Up and right past BR to thin line right of arete, almost back into BH below final triangular roof. Step left and up past BR to double ring bolt belay and rap.

Start: Start: As for 'Blue Hawaii'.

Bring two bolt-plates.

FA: Wade Stevens & Tim Day, 1999

Excellent, steep fun. Solid at the grade with fiddly gear on the crux.

Start on the left edge of the pillar, as for "Yesterday's Rooster".

Gain short hanging corner, fiddle with pro then move right and follow middle of buttress.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Rod Young & Greg Child, 1978

Direct start up dodgy rock 2m R of original is actually quite a bit easier. Just toproped, I'll put 2 bolts in it, or feel free to put them in yourself, I don't mind!

FA: Douglas Hockly, 2014

Wonderful sustained and steep. A megaclassic.

Start: Start about 10m right of 'Blue Hawaii' and 2m left of 'Yesterday'.

Follow an inverted staircase flake into a hanging gully. Step R and continue pass two FHs along the weakness to the overlap (peg). Crank through the steeper section on jugs to the double ring bolt anchor.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Eddy Ozols (starting from the hanging gully, stemming up L of the bolt). Wayne Jensen added the direct start & bolted arete section while doing Maniacal (24)., 1989

Provided the logical start to 'Lunatic' but it's now just a footnote as a link from 'Lunatic' into That's 'Fantastic'.

Follow Lunatic to the bolt. Continue for another 3 metres then step right and go up arete into That's Fantastic.

FA: Wayne Jensen, 1989

Start as for Lunatic, continue up the arete and then tend R. Has it's own chains.

FA: Gordon Poultney, 2010

Avoids the crux of "Yesterday" via a fine alternative finish.

Start: as for "Yesterday".

Take Yesterday to bulge, traverse left along break then up the spectacular arete.

FA: Chris Shepherd & Malcolm Matheson, 1984

Probably awesome so we'll chuck a few stars at it and see what everyone thinks. To be distinguished from "That's Fantastic" which also starts up "Yesterday" and moves left.

Start: As for 'Yesterday'.

Up Yesterday to the crux, then traverse left and up through little roof, past fixed wire.

FA: FRA Paul Hoskins, 1993

A powerful, overhanging line.

Place high nut with a stick and boulder into line from either side. Up the line which veers right at rooflet. Move left for final few moves to rings.

FA: Clive Parker, Peter McKeand & Gordon Talbett (all aid), 1968

Excellent sustained face that leads directly to the crux of 'Yesterday'.

Start just right of Yesterday and climb past bolts to join that route. (The original direct started at the boulder 10 metres right of Yesterday and traversed 3 metres left. Grade 27)

FA: Kim Carrigan via a start further to the right at 27. Ingvar Lidman added the even more direct start as described in 2001., 1984

Stick-clip bolt, climb tricky start and continue past more fixed gear.

Start: Start about 12 metres right of "Yesterday"

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

A few desperate bouldery moves.

Face 10 metres right of Use No Chooks.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

Overhanging crack 3 metres right of the start of 'Genug'.

FA: Patrick Alseby. Summer., 1998

Areas

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Grades

Routes

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Grade Route

This is on the opposite side of the gully from Future Past. The first climb is the left edge of the major south-east facing wall and the other climbs are further east.

For the climbs right of Specially Yours, rap down to the base of the deep chimney of The Protege. The abseil gear can be recovered during the walk back down Yesterday Gully. It may also be reasonable to approach these by climbing Mentor (Pinnacle Face).

Left arete of major buttress. Lost In The Ozone takes the right arete. Wouldn't be too bad with a bit of traffic.

Start up shallow corner-flake and up, keeping just right of arete. The crux section is avoidable.

FA: Keith Egerton & Roy Smith, 1984

Start: Start 10 metres left of the chimney of "The Protege".

  1. 30m (22) Climb crack then grooves to hanging crack then out over roof to belay.

  2. 35m (22) Swing onto right face of arete and finish steeply up it.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Kim Carrigan (alt), 1979

Start below middle of orange wall 15 metres left of Lost In The Ozone corner and finish left of diagonal crack.

FA: Roy Smith & Keith Egerton, 1984

A memorable excursion up a monster chimney. Protection is spaced.

Up chimney to large chockstone at 30 metres. Go around overhang and up to ledge (2 old pitons, possible belay). Bridge widely to top.

FA: Daryl Carr & Chris Baxter, 1967

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