Routes in Beechworth Area

Great beginner route! Tricky opening sequence leads to excellent, well protected slab climbing. Starts 1m R of the wide crack splitting the wall (if standing at cliff base). Double BR top anchor.

The next big crack 2m L of Beechworth Bakery. Can be protected fairly well.

The cool-looking right-hand line on suspect-looking (but surprisingly solid) rock. Straight up past 3RB's to double ring lower-off

Probably the best route at Mt Pilot. The finger-crack/flake a few metres L of Chicken Salad Roll.

Fantastic first lead! Well protected fun slabbing. Starts 7m right of Sticky Date Sunrise (if standing at cliff base). Tricky opening moves, then easily up the slab. Double BR top anchor.

Probably the first route here. Excellent protection. The obvious finger/hand crack through a small overhang.

The original route on this wall. The arete on the L of the large crack splitting the wall past 3 BRs. Please be aware the final section of this route is somewhat run-out.

Start about a Metre right of Lucky Charlie, climb up a thinking start to first bolt, up past some nice crimps into another tricky section before the last bolt.

2m left of Mount Pilot Unearthed is a line of bolts. Tricky first move leads to an awesome rail, head straight up with plenty of crimps on offer!

The left-hand line is also not too bad. Good gear down low. 1 FH to rings.

A hard start leads to good face climbing, finishing easily up the slab. Start off the block 5m R of Lucky Charlie (if standing at cliff base). If needed, the start can be skipped by using the tree. Double BR top anchor near small gumtree on ledge.

Towards the L end of the wall there is a crack which ends at about half height. Up this and then continue on up the slab.

About 4 metres to the left of 'Helmets On!' Fun crimps up to a scoop. Mantle and then head up a bit more to a more tradition slab finish. Crux in between 1st and 3rd Bolt. Double carrot belay.

The mini-arete on the boulder opposite Life In The Fat Lane. Although very short, this is a great warm-up, or beginner's lead. 2 FHs.

Recently re-bolted (2014). Climb the left arete of "Soot" past 3 RB's, execute the thought-provoking mantle to gain 4th RB, then surmount final steepness clipping 5th RB a couple of metres above the lip (out of sight from the ground). Head left to Double Ring lower-off.

The obvious corner crack which takes great protection.

Climb up a ramp past 2 BRs and then mount the headwall above past one more BR.

To the right of Pegasus is a line with heaps of flakes. Nice climbing past 2 FHs leads to an anchor.

The first route on the wall, start on ledge behind cypress. Difficult moves past 2 FHs to rings.

Start 2m L of The Happy Baker. Up a mini arete to a sloping ledge, and then continue past horizontal breaks. 2FHs to rings.

Climb to the edge/ledge and continue to the top via an easy mantle.

Stand start at the hanging flake and climb it.

The ledges in the right hand corner make for an easy route up.

Solid for the grade. Up the wall a couple of metres left of Grendel past two BRs. Small cam protects the finish.

The crack 2m right of straight up, which angles slightly right. Jamming from thin hands to fist up higher. Start 1m left of fused crack on jug, then up to diagonal crack for pro. Anchors at top for lower off.

The left arete.

The central arête. Start as for Unnamed 4 and traverse in then up. Beware the creaking hold on the arête.

Climb to the edge/ledge and continue to the top via an easy mantle.

Climb the shallow groove to the right of Unnamed 2.

The crack/corner, exiting over the top of the talon.

The pinky fingers sized crack.

The crack around right of Comic Relief.

This boulder is in the northern region of Area E away from the main group of boulders. Fairly straight forward following the crack line up.

Follow the crack all the way past a thrutchy crux. Take 2 hangers for the anchor.

The first small slab between two cracks. Start in centre, go left to a big edge, up over bulge, then right to join Straight Up.

The fist-crack left of the blunt arete, then mantle the flake and up.

As the name implies, straight up.

The right hand corner.

Bridge the crack and slip up the arete past 2 BRs.

Sit start at hanging flake where it almost touches the ground.

A few nice moves on this overhung boulder’s face leads to a hard pull to top out.

Easily visible from the road, this classic highball finger crack is a stunning problem with the hardest moves saved for the finish.

4m right of Bridge Work is a clean curving crack.

Left side of face. Thin crack to off-balance ledge, stem to gain small alcove and a couple of jams to exit.

In the middle of the face, step right and back left to tiny mantle ledge and up small hanging corner. 2 BRs and small wires.

Short and sweet. Start on the lower right and roughly follow the arete past 2 BRs.

The left corner/roof.

Off-width crack forming right side of John's Arete to ceiling bulge, then turn bulge by face on right. You can clip the BRs on John's Arete until some natural pro, then run it out to the top.

Arete left of Valkyrie. Originally climbed by the 2 BRs on the western side, it now has 2 FHs.

The obvious hand crack facing the road. Beware of its namesake in the crack!

Has a nice committing crux that has seen more than one fall! On the next tier below the climbs described above, is a cracked face topped by a bulge. Climb the broken crack system and clip a BR before pulling the root-bulge.

Left of Scooter. From under overhang, move to arete, onto face and up.

The obvious wide chimney that has a zig in it.

20m downhill and left (SW) of Western Exposure is an obvious crack line.

Boulder onto the rail, balance your way up to the next ledge, and then try and figure out how to get up through the scoop. Probably 23 for short people! 3 BRs.

The right end of the face, trending right past a FH to a horizontal (pro). Then go left to the steep finger crack and up.

The very coarse finger crack to the left of Apple Scroll. Heads right under bulges and up. Tape up!

Starts at the main corner of the left-hand end of the cliff and about 50m left of The Lighthouse Of Alexandria.

1. 20m. The corner to a cave behind some large blocks.

2. 20m. The crack to the ledge. Instead of scrambling off, continue to the top via the steep crack that starts on the little ledge above.

A stunning line. Delicate moves up the central arête/rib lead to a committing top over.

Thought provoking! The next boulder just downstream from The Nymph has a single big jug on its lower lip. Start matched in the big jug, pull up and over with much technicality.

3m right of Geranium Crack. The widening to off-width crack.

Around the side of the above boulder. A delicate start with the left hand on the underside of the a small crack. Work the right hand up into the crack and then use both hands the work your way up the crack. A difficult high right footing required to leverage up along the crack.

Duck through the cave and this is the next nice crack along. Easy moves out of the cave lead to a no hands rest. Continue up the thin corner (crux).

The centre line. Start as for Grimpeuse de la Nuit and then follow the line of little vertical seams/cracks. A direct start was done using the trees and a big edge at a grade of 21, but it's not known if the trees are still there.

The first closed seam left of the small cave. Hard moves lead to hole and jugs. Lurch left to finger crack with one more hard move at the top. 4 FHs. The top of the crack may need brushing after rain.

Start as for Shadowline to first BR, out to second BR and continue up arete past 3rd BR. Small wires at the end (BD nuts size 2-3).

Start at bottom of block. Up vertical broken crack to fist jam, over ledge and follow line to horizontal. Go left and up.

Forty metres right of the left-hand end of the cliff at a leftward diagonal line becoming a flake/chimney.

1. 35m. Move left on the boulder, pull onto the ledge and up leftward ramp to the flake/chimney.

2. 20m. Scramble to the top.

Sit start and go straight up the middle. Use left edge and the middle crimps.

Work further along the ledge of Roadkill for a more difficult top out

7 metres right of problem no.2 is an obvious brushed face/slab. Stand start slightly left of centre using high gaston. Delicately smear up and right, using tiny holds to gain good left sidepull and high right gaston. Trust your feet whilst you turn the lip then finish up final slab.

The obvious big layback flake. Fun laybacking leads to a pleasant doddle up the slab (1 FH). Don't fall while clipping.

Right of Matinee. The 75 degree left-leaning finger-crack (which is of excellent quality). Surmount ledge, move right, and step down slightly for thin moves up arete. According to the guidebook this had a bolt but there's no sign of it now.

The short crack at the left end of the Flake Off wall is a "muck around boulder problem".

The crack 1m right of Danish Crack. Up the left side of the top block which may be loose.

An old time easy classic up the slab.

The cool hanging arete to the right of Talon. 3 BRs natural anchor.

Sit start at the slopers and up to the good dyke edges, head left and step off when matched at the last big edge.

Further around the hill. A great fun and easy chimney! Variety of ways to work it to make it harder.

Overhanging off-width crack to the right of Thomas Flares.

Start off the big block at the base of the chimney. Ordinary gear leads to a FH and then a ledge (another FH). Continue up the left arete passing 3 FHs to the top.

Up the arête avoiding the ledges on your left.

A striking and powerful line on very smooth overhung rock. Start matched on sloping hold/jug. Head diagonally right and up, top out.

Classic! This is the 1st boulder on river right about 50 metres downstream from the bridge and ascends the stepped overhung orange face. Sit start using the chockstone for feet and pull hard off dual side pulls to get off the ground.

Start as for Rocky Road, only blast your way straight up the middle of the face passing 6 BRs on your way to glory!

The left arete past 2 BRs. Starting boulder problem is about V2!

Adjacent East to the above, also marked 'The Three Sisters'. Not a bad crack to work up but the top out is awkward and rough.

The chimney. Bring BIG gear, otherwise go on an adventure and use the chockstones for pro.

Start at largest low hold on arête and straight up to top out…easier than it first appears when using the full array of holds.

Continues on from the above top out. Delicately work across the rock then up the other side. A tree is conveniently placed behind you at the insanely chossy crux!

The bolted face left of Doughboy. Hard face moves lead to the finger crack which may need brushing. 3 BRs, 1 FH.

The wall with 3 FHs offers some very hard and steep cranking. Stick clip first FH. Hard moves past this lead to excellent incuts. Exit out left at twin seams, lower-off at chains.

The clean black water streak in the centre of the slab.

Head further East from The Three Sisters rocks. Very difficult start due to the absence of any decent footholds. There is a flake sticking out of the ground that might come in handy... Bump up your hand holds on the left and right then work both into the crack. Big reach over the top of the boulder to secure a good hold to top out.

The easier one. 2 BRs plus wires.

The curving corner crack on the right of the little crag (known locally as Bum Rock) on the western slopes of Mt Jack northeast of Myrtleford.