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Routes in Beechworth Area for selected grade

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Showing all 27 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Beechworth Gorge A
V3 Un-named V3

Start at the dodgy flake and straight up, the hardest part is the mantle!

Boulder
Beechworth Gorge C
V3 High Bowl

Sit start in the far right corner crack and traverse left across the 'bowl' then up the main crack using the crimps out to the left

Boulder 4m
Beechworth Gorge E
V3 American Psycho

7 metres right of problem no.2 is an obvious brushed face/slab. Stand start slightly left of centre using high gaston. Delicately smear up and right, using tiny holds to gain good left sidepull and high right gaston. Trust your feet whilst you turn the lip then finish up final slab.

FA: Ben Mace, 23 Mar 2014

Boulder
Beechworth Gorge G
V3 Roadkill

A few nice moves on this overhung boulder’s face leads to a hard pull to top out.

Boulder
Beechworth Gorge H
V3 The Nymph

Sit start in finger crack on the downstream side of Bayou Baby. Up on slopers, heading left up the vague arête to join Bayou Baby at the top and pull over.

Boulder
Beechworth Gorge J
V3 Flotsam

Start at largest low hold on arête and straight up to top out…easier than it first appears when using the full array of holds.

Boulder
Mt Pilot Bakery Wall
23 Rhinoceros Breath

Nice moves up the pockets/scoops to the gripping finger crack. Dodgy rock.

FA: Matt Roper & Luke Fitridge, 1998

Trad 8m
22 Chicken Salad Roll

Recently re-bolted (2014). Climb the left arete of "Soot" past 3 RB's, execute the thought-provoking mantle to gain 4th RB, then surmount final steepness clipping 5th RB a couple of metres above the lip (out of sight from the ground). Head left to Double Ring lower-off.

FA: Matt Roper & Robert Cowan

Sport 17m, 5
22 The Bakery Connection

Climb Chicken Salad Roll to 3rd BR. Hard move out left to horizontal crack (takes gear), and up to jugs.

FA: Paul Martin & John Lewis

Mixed trad 20m, 3
23 Pass The Mustard

The tiny seam to the left of Chicken Salad Roll. Very technical. Uses Chicken Salad Roll's BRs and a few RPs, exit up The Bakery Connection.

FFA: Robert Cowan, 2000

FA: Ryan Butler (w. aid), 2000

Mixed trad 20m, 3
23 John's Arete

The lowish angled bolted arete past 3 BR's, can us some large gear to protect top out. Hard to avoid the crack.

FA: John Schwerdfeger, 2000

Sport 20m, 3
22 Rocky Road

This route starts in the middle of the main face at a weakness with heaps of dyke rock. Climb the slab to the rightward sickle crack and follow it to the top. 3 BRs.

FA: Bob Cowan & John Schwerdfeger

Mixed trad 20m, 3
22 Croissant

Start as for Rocky Road, only blast your way straight up the middle of the face passing 6 BRs on your way to glory!

FA: Bob Cowan & John Schwerdfeger

Mixed trad 20m, 6
23 Apple Scroll

The low angled black slab behind the big dead tree. Excellent climbing past 3 BRs leads to huge jugs at the horizontal/ledge (2x#1 SLCDs). Continue past another BR to the top.

FA: Bob Cowan & co.

Mixed trad 20m, 4
Mt Pilot Lower Bakery Wall
23 Ache To Touch You

Quite a nice route on excellent hard dyke-rock. Three metres right of Crack Two is a scoop with 2 FHs. Bouldery moves lead to a pocket and the second FH. Step right and finish up Thredbo.

FFA: Paul Martin & Jason Owen

Sport 10m, 2
23 Boulderly Yours

The finger crack to the huge horizontal slot and roof, continue up the headwall. Gear was pre-paced above the roof on the FFA.

FFA: Robert Cowan & Paul Martin, 1997

Trad 8m
Mt Pilot Falcon Buttress
22 Falcon's Lair

Up centre of the face to diagonal crack. Pull through then up face past 5 BRs.

FA: Robert Cowan, John Schwerdfeger & Matt Roper

Mixed trad 45m, 5
23 Falcon's Nest

Right side of face. Pull past BR to thin ledge, traverse right and over small roof. Climb the arete past 4 BRs.

FA: Robert Cowan, John Schwerdfeger & Matt Roper

Mixed trad 45m, 5
Mt Pilot Dentistry Wall
22 Another Boulder Problem

Climb past 3 BRs on the face.

FA: Bob Cowan, Matt Roper & Richard Spry

Sport 15m, 3
Mt Pilot Eastern Slabs
23 Pegasus

The clean black water streak in the centre of the slab.

FA: Paul Martin

Top rope 12m
Mt Pilot Yeddonba Wall
22 Oil On Canvas

The first closed corner you come across. A hard start leads to good pockets and good gear. Avoid the chossy direct finish by moving left over the slab at the end of the corner to join The Tourist Route.

FA: Paul Martin, Nick Danne & Andrew Porter, 2000

Trad 30m
Mt Pilot Lone Ranger Boulder
22 Luke's Route

Climb the hand-crack on the back of the boulder, then pull past some thin moves protected by a FH.

FFA: Luke Fitridge & Matt Roper

Mixed trad 10m, 1
Mt Stanley Talon Block
23 Is That A Light Sabre In Your Pocket?

The cool hanging arete to the right of Talon. 3 BRs natural anchor.

FFA: Mat Roper, 1998

Sport 10m, 3
23 Thomas Flares

A fun and sporty route to the right of "Is That A Light Sabre In Your Pocket?".

FFA: Mat Roper, 1998

Sport 10m, 3
Mt Stanley Grendel Gully
22 Unnamed top-rope

The wall to the left of Obelisk. Feel free to bolt it.

Top rope 10m
22 Young Ones

The hard one. 2 BRs plus wires.

FFA: Rob Cowan & John Schwerdfeger, 1998

Mixed trad 12m, 2
Mt Stanley South of Grendel Gully
22 Ode To A Frenchman

Hard and dangerous. Crank up on a few good holds (RB) to stance on right. Take a deep breath and traverse left (crux - fiddly RPs) to seam/gastons. Keep going left and up until you hit the top.

FFA: Paul Martin, John Lewis & Andrew Porter, 1997

Mixed trad 10m, 1

Showing all 27 routes.

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