Access issues inherited from Ben Lomond

It is a national park.


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Almost at the bottom of the descent gully. The crack on the left of the wall with a scoop at the top. Thin at the start then widens at the top.

Short but sequency line visible on the eastern side of descent gully (near pillar) just as you enter the gully from the top.

Reachy moves on slighty overhung thin hands - may be easier for those with smaller digits.

To set toppie - walk 60m right from the climb around the butress. Then left 15m (over slab) and left again 20m along wall to cairn. Scramble down to topout ledge.

FA: Anton Korsun & Brandon, 24 Feb

FFA: Anton Korsun & Brandon, 27 Feb

So named because the eponymous German dogged his way seconding up. Climbs the crack splitting the semi-detached column above Split Surprises.

Face climb to 5m, traverse R into horrid, mossy crack, then belay amongst spikey bushes on the ledge above.

FA: Chris Elliott & Johannes Kirschner, 17 Jan 2014

The LH crack several lines to the left.

A clean corner with flared, thin jamming

The line left of Die Nadal

The incredible thin tram-tracks, high on the wall just left of Die Nadal P2. Access: Climb either Necrophiliac or Necromancer P1 to ledge. Fiery lay-backing eventually eases to hand-jamming, before a thin finish. Step right at the small roof and continue up easy terrain to the top. A classic.

Classic thin hand crack - a very sustained jamming test-piece. Take plenty of #1 camalots

Boldly climb the vague seam-crack and arete of the pillar between Defender of the Faith and Rigaudon to a stance at the top of the pillar. Continue up either of these routes to the top.

Thin direct start to Defender of the Faith

Access via the first offwidth/chimney pitch of Rigudon, then climb 2m up and left into the line.

  1. 30m (22) - Excellent, sustained climbing following the finger sized crack, with many good (but loose) faceholds on the left.

  2. 30m (18)- Continue up the line.

Classic corner, but for many the chimney is the crux!

  1. 15m (18) The slick offwidth to the top of pillar eventually opens up into a chimney with some gear at the back. Some people place runners in the first 5m of Ramandan to protect the start of this pitch.

  2. 55m (20) The corner crack is a stellar line, follow all the way to a big ledge just below the top. Hanging belay possible if you only have a 50m rope.

  3. 6m (17) Short hand crack to the top

The recessed column with a thin crack on the RH side. One of the Ben's ultra classic jamming marathons.

  1. 45m (19) Strenuous jamming of all sizes leads to a good ledge. Triple rack of cams useful.

  2. 35m (18) Continue through overhang with more jamming

An alternate first pitch to Rajah which 'eliminates' the most beautiful bit of pure hand crack on Rajah. Climb the thin crack immediately right of Ramadan to the first ledge on Rajah.

  1. 40m (18)- Start off the Donga in the splitter hand crack. Optional belay on the ledge at 15m, or continue for another 25m up the widening crack to the next ledge.

  2. 40m (18) Burly crack climbing that passes through an overhanging bulge and gets quite wide at times. The rock quality deteriorates significantly towards the top.

A classic route. Technical stemming or strenuous layback corner, take your pick! There is usually some tat around a big horn at the top of the first pitch allowing you to lower off.

Next line R of Dangerman, starts as a tips lay back and slowly opens up to thin hands. Another classic. Generally possible to lower off tat at the top of the first pitch, or continue as for Dangerman.

The dark corner just to the left of Barbe Di Vendetta with the singular crack line spearing straight up past a small rooflet formed by a rectangular block. Two pitches -

  1. 35 m 21. An amazing pitch. Fingerlock, layback, stem, jam and chimney the corner to a small ledge and comfy belay behind a large block at 35m.

  2. 45 m 19. Continue up the line and through the roof about 15 m above the belay. Step left for a few metres, then back to the right and continue to top on rock of lesser quality.

Start - About 10 m right of 'The Donger' at the obvious splitter handcrack.

  1. 25m - Jam the crack, passing several small ledges. Belay on the biggest one where the hand-sized crack continues in a corner. Can be linked with pitch 2 if you have enough gear.

  2. 25m - Jam and layback the corner up to a stance on a small ledge where the crack thins. Place some good wires, take a deep breath, and launch up the face and arete on the right until its possible to step back left to a large chossy ledge with a giant flake below twin cracks.

  3. 40m - Jam and bridge the twin cracks for about 15m, then carefully negotiate the choss to the top. This pitch is much longer than the guidebook suggests.

FA: Rosebery, Morris & Kennedy, 1977

Thins seam up the wall just left of Rondeau

A triple crack system featuring a spearing line up the centre of a recessed column. Take a few larger cams, but the beauty of having 3 cracks to choose from means you will mostly be hand jamming. First pitch is incredible, with the top two pitches on suss rock.

FA: Gerry & Nick

The most direct line up the ridge

Alternate finish to Ass, Gas or Grass

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