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Beulah Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Todd Free Tim Haasnoot Arthur Schultz Aidan Smith Michael Carlotto Paul Thomson Joe Burrill Russ Best

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Beulah 669 routes in Crag

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.484800, 150.929000

summary

Rolling terrain covered in (almost) unclimbed granite boulders and domes.

description

Beulah is the Axelsen Family Station. The station is 3000 acres in size and has rolling hills covered in granite boulders as well as 3 large domes up to 70m in height.

access issues

Access to Beulah is closed.

history

The first boulder problems and routes were scrubbed in 2005. The following year more potential problems were scrubbed, GPS'd and left for another time. The idea for the Festivus began in early 2007 and the first Festivus saw 7 people out in August sending some scrubbed lines. The second annual saw attendance double and the date change to Easter. The third annual event became the a full blown Beulah Rock Festivus complete with sponsorship, prizes, events and climbers from all over Australia. 2010 had 60 people from all over coming out for 4 days of perfect weather and a 132 new problems sent! Access to Beulah is now closed.

1.1. Northern areas 101 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.468706, 150.924187

description

All boulders that are near the houses and donger, within walking distance.

1.1.1. House Boulders 8 routes in Area

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.465414, 150.918596

description

Up in the trees to the west of the house on the hill.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Left variant project Boulder
2 Power House

Sit start on low pinch, move up through some crimps, towards tough move over bulge.

FA: Michael Tonon, 6 Apr 2012

V8 Boulder
3 Tuna for breakfast

Slopers, then right, then left.

FA: Chas Ruffles, 2010

V2 Boulder
4 Muesli and Milk

Start 2m right of "Tuna for Breakfast", up on thin crimps. Easier if you are tall.

FA: Tim Haasnoot, 23 Apr 2011

V4 Boulder 6m
5 Lou Jacks

Up thin crimps

FA: Chas Ruffles, 2010

V2 Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 Bush slab

FA: Toby Olive, 8 Apr 2012

V0 Boulder
7 slab bush

FA: Toby Olive, 8 Apr 2012

V1 Boulder
8 Apple Crumble

A different start hold every attempt! Sit start on little sidepull and big crumbly undercling. Pop into better sidepull then straight up. Beware of fragile looking block on top.

FA: Russ Best, Mar 2013

V2 Boulder

1.1.2. Donger Boulders 43 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.468393, 150.921039

description

The Donger Boulders are the boulders immediately south of the Donger. The large outrcop beside the Donger is called "Whale Rock"

The area is pretty big and encompasses all the boulders from the Donger east past the "The Solitary Boulder" to the road to the tip and south to a drainage.

1.1.2.1. Coffs Rocks 5 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.467948, 150.920719

description

Two boulders 40m along the faint trail leading up around the east side of Whale Rock.

approach

Through the gate with the Donger sign on it. Follow the faint and overgrown dual track for about 50m to when it takes a hard right. You are there.

history

Cleaned in 2006 and then forgotten. Sam Van Gastel put up Coffs Roof at the 3rd Festivus in 2009.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Drum Lesson

Up the way down off this boulder.

FA: Todd Free, 2006

{US} V0- Boulder 2m
2 Stand & Liver

Up small corner, finsih on knobs

FA: Todd Free, 2006

{US} V0 Boulder 2m
3 Thorn in my Pride

Start in blackberry bush and up crimps.

FA: Todd Free, 2006

{US} V0 Boulder 2m
4 Coffs Roof

Start on crimps/sloper, slap under rooflet, pull up through and mantel

FA: Sam Van Gastel, 2008

{US} V4 Boulder
5 Coff's Easy Exit

Start on right-hand side of Coff's Rock, left hand on gaston and right hand on crimper. Up and through the right-side of the rooflet. Avoid bailing right past the roof.

NOTE: May have been climbed before. If this is you, please change the FA/Route Details appropriately.

FA: Paul Thomson, 31 Mar 2013

V0 Boulder 3m
1.1.2.2. Finger-Ripper Boulder 2 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.467797, 150.920722

approach

Directly behind Coff's Roof boulder, with a toppled tree creating a semi-sketchy landing area.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Finger-Ripper Jr.

Start in the middle of the Finger-Ripper Boulder (directly behind Coff's Rock boulder, and just left of the fallen tree) left of small overlap. Up slab on tiny sharp crystals trending right to finish on right-hand side of boulder.

NOTE: Likely climbed before as there was a LOT of chalk all over this boulder. Please edit the name/first ascent of this route if that was you.

FA: Paul Thomson (??), 31 Mar 2013

V1 Boulder 3m
2 Finger-Ripper Sr.

Start on the right side of the Finger-Ripper Boulder (directly behind Coff's Rock boulder, and immediately beside the fallen tree) on footers directly below the small overlap with hands on whatever you can grab. Up past overlap and onto slab on miniscule razor-sharp crystals to finish on right of boulder.

NOTE: May have already been climbed as there was a LOT of chalk all over this boulder. Please edit the name/first ascent of this route if that was you. Otherwise, this is an Open Project (I couldn't the last move to gain the slab) so go nuts!

V2 BoulderProject 2m
1.1.2.3. Godwin 3 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.467677, 150.920761

approach

Once through the Donger gate, follow the dual track for 30m then look right, you are there.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Cant Help You

Practice balancing up crystals and tiny edges.

FA: Todd Free, 2006

{US} V0- Boulder
2 Godwin

Straight up short thin face left of detached block.

FA: Scott Godwin, 2008

{US} V0 Boulder
3 Manifest Mantel

Very easy mantel to a one slab move to top.

FA: Todd Free, 2006

{US} V0- Boulder
1.1.2.4. Heywood 1 route in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.470042, 150.921976

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Skippy Goes Up

Interesting moves, start at left end of boulder. Watch landing.

FA: Brendan Heywood, 2008

{US} V2 Boulder
1.1.2.5. OK Corral 1 route in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.468130, 150.921681

description

Located east of the Donger and uphill of the old wooden corral. The boulder is about 6m high and 15m wide. Might be potential for more variations but OK Corral is the most obvious line.

approach

Instead of going through the Donger gate, follow the fence to the left for about 50m, then over the fence and you should be able to see this high boulder. Look for the scrubbed crack above the 4m slab.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Shootout

Up the slab to the hand crack. Some may consider this problem high. Can be top-roped with a gear anchor in the crack at top.

FA: Todd Free, 2009

{US} V0 Boulder
1.1.2.6. Orchid 3 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.467673, 150.920928

description

Nice boulder with three varied problems on it.

approach

After jumping the fence or going through the gate and leaving it as you found it, this is the first rock on the right.

history

Beercan arete used to be easier until Brendan ripped of a large crucial crystal.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Bomber Flake

Layback up the detached flake.

FA: Todd Free, 2007

{US} V0- Boulder 2m
2 The Orchid

High step your way up the blunt arete to a mantel.

FA: Todd Free, 2007

{US} V1 Boulder
3 Beer Can Arete

Pull on large crystals up the arete to mantel top out. Harder now thanks to Brendan.

FA: Todd Free, 2007

{US} V3 Boulder
1.1.2.7. Underberry 1 route in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.468734, 150.922132

approach

Through the Donger gate, just passed the little dam on your left, then head up the large slab to the top. You will see the large and obvious Black Berry boulder ahead of you. Under Berry is the boulder the Black Berry boulder is sitting on.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 At Night

Up the vague corner with large crack.

FA: Todd Free, 2006

{US} V0 Boulder
1.1.2.8. Unfinished 18 routes in Area
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.469180, 150.922400

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Open project 1 BoulderProject
2 Open project 2 BoulderProject
3 Open project 3 BoulderProject
4 Open project 4 BoulderProject
5 Open project 5 BoulderProject
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 Open project 6 BoulderProject
7 Open project 7 BoulderProject
8 Open project 8 BoulderProject
9 Open project 9 BoulderProject
10 Sushi Train

Sit Start. To the jug then mantle.

FA: Aidan Smith, 23 Apr 2011

V4 Boulder 3m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
11 Arborio

Sit start then slab.

FA: Aidan Smith, 23 Apr 2011

V1 Boulder 3m
12 Avocado

Sit start. Undercling, sidepull, jug.

FA: Aidan Smith, 23 Apr 2011

V0 Boulder 3m
13 Soy

Sit start. up.

FA: Aidan Smith, 23 Apr 2011

V0 Boulder 3m
14 Pox Flake

Sit start at the poxy arete flake. Follow the arete then mantle on the jug.

FA: Aidan Smith, 23 Apr 2011

V0 Boulder 3m
15 Pox Flake Direct

Grab some crimps on the face. Watch the fall!

FA: Aidan Smith, 23 Apr 2011

V2 Boulder 3m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
16 Tip Crack

Sit start. Follow the crack.

FA: Aidan Smith, 24 Apr 2011

V1 Boulder 4m
17 open project

crimp, slap, heel, crack

BoulderProject 4m
18 Bomber Roof

sit start on the jug, up past the maybe not so bomber roof.

FA: Aidan Smith, 24 Apr 2011

V2 Boulder 4m
1.1.2.9. Whale Rock 7 routes in Boulder
Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -30.467513, 150.920309

description

This is the 15 metre high dome beside the Donger. All climbs can be lowered off, or you can walk off either side.

approach

If you are at the Donger, you are there.

history

Of Whale & Wasp was the first route up this dome. Now it is home to 5 climbs. Of Whale & Wasp is the only route that Cliff has climbed at Beulah!

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Of Whale & Wasp

Start on the left and follow the arch up to the right then up slab. Gear required, up to 3 inches. Lower off at top.

FA: Todd & Gretta Free, 2010

10 Trad 15m
2 Dark Night

3 fixed hangers to a cam break. Friction climbing and some good holds to calm the nerves. finish at shared anchor with Angry Man.

FA: Tim Haasnoot, 29 Mar 2013

14 Sport 15m, 3
3 Angry Man

Starting 2m left of the scoop of Whale Ale, up difficult start to nice finish. Don't forget some cams for the final break before the top out

FA: Tim Haasnoot, 29 Mar 2013

17 Sport 15m, 3
4 Whale Ale

Up the steep concave scoop then slab above. A medium sized cam is required for horizontal break at the top. Two bolt lower off.

FA: Tim Hasnoot, 11 Feb 2012

17 Sport 15m, 4
5 Invalid Whale

Start up Whale ale then traverse right after 2 bolts and finish up Invalid. Single bolt lower off.

FA: Aidan Smith, 11 Feb 2012

17 Sport 15m, 4
6 Invalid

Up the easy ramp then the steeper slab past 1 bolt. A little exciting! Single bolt lower off.

FA: Tim Hasnoot, 11 Feb 2012

16 Sport 15m, 2
7 Tui

Follow the bolts up the delicate slab. A good introduction to slabbing.

FA: Aidan Smith, 11 Feb 2012

16 Sport 15m, 5
1.1.2.10. Llama boulder 1 route in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Llamas are people too

FA: Tom Kjaer-Olsen, 6 Apr 2012

V2 Boulder
1.1.2.11. Coffee vault 1 route in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

description

50m uphill from the 'Llama boulder'

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Coffee vault

FA: Nadja Kunz, 6 Apr 2012

V0 Boulder

1.1.3. Blackberry boulders 4 routes in Boulder

Summary:
Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -30.468838, 150.922109

description

The Blackberry boulder is sitting on top of a large slab 150m south east of the Donger. Visible as you drive past the gate into Beulah.

approach

From the Donger, walk up the slab to the south east.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Your Anger Is A Gift

A prominent line overlooking the camp site. Through the offwidth roof crack and out the face.

FA: James Bultitude, 29 Mar 2013

17 Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 Arete Route

Traverse left along seam, then up the bulge. Prime position but not the best rock or climbing. Trad anchor and second or rap to clean. 3 bolts.

Bolted and climbed at the last public Rock Festivus. I was trad climbing seriously at the time so the gear must have seemed pretty poor for me to consider putting in bolts. But in hindsight maybe not the most tasteful addition - the landowners can of course do whatever they want with it, including removal or a better name.

FA: Samuel May, 29 Mar 2013

16 Sport 10m
3 West crack

Body jam, chimney, stem up this wide crack. Lower off at top slightly right.

15 Trad 10m
4 Blackberry Crack

The fist crack on the south face of boulder. Bolt at top with lower off.

FA: Todd Free, 2010

12 Trad 10m

1.1.4. Little Blackberry boulder 4 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.468955, 150.922299

description

The large obvious square boulder sitting on top of exposed low angle slab. Directions as for the Donger boulders but once past the small dam walk up the slab to your left, the B-berry boulder is sitting on the top. Has potential for some top-rope problems as well as an easy crack climb up the south face, but the blackberry needs to be cleaned out of the crack first. Within 20m of this boulder are numerous others that have been cleaned a bit, but more cleaning is required. If you walk along the top of the slab eastward and into the trees there is more boulders as well. This line of boulders continues east for about 300m. You can also spelunk yer way under the B-berry boulder from north to south or vice versa. IMPORTANT: Just west of the Blackberry is a memorial to Louise Axelsen.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 A gecko stole my baby

Right on crimp then hop to square crystal and up

FA: Ben Vincent, 2010

V2 Boulder 3m
2 Microwave tv dinner

Right on the 'microwave dial' then up

FA: Brendan Heywood, 2010

V2 Boulder 3m
3 Don't know

Two great holds and up

V0 Boulder 3m
4 Izit Werethit

Up small thin stuff

FA: Brendan Heywood, 2010

V1 Boulder

1.1.5. Solitary 11 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.468558, 150.924156

description

From the Donger, head east past the shearing shed for around 500m through an open paddock. On the right is a large boulder. The route closest to the road is the coarse 'African Reef'.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Way Down

Obvious crack on southeast face. Climb up or down it.

FA: Unknown, 2009

{US} V0- Boulder 2m
2 Daylight Fading

Start high in pocket/crack, pull up and mantel. Done

FA: Todd Free, 2009

{US} V0 Boulder
3 Slope Up

Start high in sloping dish, mantel.

FA: Unknown, 2009

{US} V0 Boulder
4 The Undercling

Start high on big underlcing, up to sloper, mantel. Done

FA: Unknown, 2009

{US} V0 Boulder
5 Mutton Bird

Start on right facing small corner, pull up and go.

FA: Brendan Heywood, 2009

{US} V2 Boulder
6 Cape Horn

Start on the large undercling, slap up this feature to horizontal cracks then up.

FA: Aidan Smith, 2009

{US} V4 Boulder
7 High Times

Up the shallow groove to the right of Cape Horn.

FA: Unknown, 2009

{US} V1 Boulder
8 High Mutton

Using the shallow groove of High Times and corner of Mutton Bird go up between them.

FA: Todd Free, 2009

{US} V2 Boulder
9 Bat Attack

The wide shield to the right of African reef. Wide span stand start then shuffle up the flake.

FFA: Ben Jenga, 6 Apr 2012

V3 Boulder 4m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
10 African reef

SDS then up!

FA: Alan Ezzy, 2010

{US} V4 Boulder
11 Captain Crimp.

High stand start to the left of African reef on the arête.

FFA: Ben Jenga, 6 Apr 2012

V2 Boulder

1.1.6. Solitary Too 5 routes in Area

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.469121, 150.924563

description

Head east from the donger and after about 400m you will see the Solitary Boulder and just pass this and up towards the fence you will see this boulder.

Climbers we seen around this boulder at the 4th Annual Festivus, not sure what was done though. Best options looked to be on the side along the fence.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Open project 1 BoulderProject
2 Jesus ate my butt crack / Open project 2

Nice jams, then layback the flake to top. Pretty sweet

V1 BoulderProject 3m
3 Wayde should've come

Standing start with sidepull/undercling on the left, straight up without using the flake at all (no handjams).

FA: Luke Sarantos, Apr 2012

V3 Boulder
4 Open project 3 BoulderProject
5 Open project 4 BoulderProject

1.1.7. Internet dating area 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.469391, 150.922061

description

About 50m south of blackberry

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Internet dating

FA: Sam May, 7 Apr 2012

V1 Boulder

1.1.8. Southern Campground 3 routes in Area

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.467801, 150.919329

description

Just through the west gate that leads to the western areas, only 100-20m from the Donger.

1.1.8.1. Cornerpost 2 routes in Boulder
Summary:

Lat / Long: -30.467409, 150.919413

description

The 2 boulders at the corner of the Iron Bark Paddock beside the road heading south from the Donger

approach

From the Donger head towards the Waterfall Dome. At the first gate you are there. Hop the fence to your right.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Corner Post

Up Crimpers to the top.

FA: Artie Schultz, 2009

{US} V0 Boulder
2 Pain

Up steeper and thinner crimps.

FA: Artie Schultz, 2009

{US} V2 Boulder
1.1.8.2. Roadside 1 route in Boulder
Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Close to home

FA: Toby Olive, Apr 2012

V0 Boulder

1.1.9. The Waste Disposal Facility 22 routes in Area

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.470707, 150.925310

description

Drive east past the Solitary boulder but before you get to the fence, take a faint track to the right, through a gate which leads to a small dump.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Open project 10 BoulderProject
2 Open project 11 BoulderProject
3 Open project 12 BoulderProject
4 Open project 13 BoulderProject
5 Open project 14 BoulderProject
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 Open project 15 BoulderProject
7 Open project 16 BoulderProject
8 Open project 17 BoulderProject
9 Open project 19 BoulderProject
10 Open project 20 BoulderProject
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
11 Open project 21 BoulderProject
12 Open project 22 BoulderProject
1.1.9.1. Up the Road 2 routes in Boulder
Summary:

Lat / Long: -30.470758, 150.924586

description

A group of 3 boulders.

approach

From the Donger, take the trail that starts on the east end of Whale Rock and follow it for about 500m. The trail will head into a small open area of grass and will turn to the left. Continue up hill back under trees on the faint trail and follow up hill. When you are almost at the top of hill these boulders will be on your right.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Open project 1 BoulderProject
2 Open project 2 BoulderProject
1.1.9.2. Africa 3 routes in Area
Summary:

Lat / Long: -30.470641, 150.924689

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Open project 1 BoulderProject
2 Open project 2 BoulderProject
3 Open project 3 BoulderProject
1.1.9.3. Lizard King 2 routes in Area
Summary:

Lat / Long: -30.470092, 150.924877

description

A large boulder with good potential and named the Lizard King not for Jim Morrison, but due to the large reptile sitting on the jug when i took the picture.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Open project 1 BoulderProject
2 Open project 2 BoulderProject
1.1.9.4. Eagle rock 3 routes in Boulder
Summary:

Lat / Long: -30.471273, 150.925572

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Eagle rock

FA: Toby Olive, 7 Apr 2012

V1 Boulder
2 Eagle claw

FA: Toby Olive, 7 Apr 2012

V6 Boulder
3 Eagles back

FA: Toby Olive, 7 Apr 2012

V1 Boulder

1.2. Western areas 219 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.487246, 150.917981

description

All areas and boulders that are accessed by driving west and up the hill.

1.2.1. Warm Up Boulder 3 routes in Area

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.469886, 150.918286

description

The first boulder cleaned and climbed at Beulah. From the Donger, follow the West Rd through the gate and uphill. On your right will be trees; as the tress thin out and the paddock begins, turn off the road to your right and head up hill along the edge of the trees, until you see the obvious boulder lacking lichen on its south east face. Three easy problems; 1 slab and 2 cracks

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Cypress Grove

Up thin short slab on left end of boulder. High step to mantel finish.

FA: Todd Free, 2006

{US} V0 Boulder
2 Rolling & Tumbling

Up the crack in the middle of the boulder.

FA: Todd Free, 2006

{US} V0 Boulder
3 Thinking of You

The crack on the right side of boulder.

FA: Todd Free, 2006

{US} V0- Boulder

1.2.2. Area 37 46 routes in Area

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.474732, 150.924061

description

A large collection of boulders spread out between two dry/damp drainage's.

Same directions as for the 'Warm Up Boulder' except instead of heading up hill to the warmup, stay on the road and follow to the top of the hill, where you will see a large dam downhill and to your left. From the dam a drainage heads east through a fence. Area 37 is bounded on the west by the fence, to the north by the drainage, to the south by the top of the hill, and finally on the east by another fence. So far 8 problems have been cleaned and about 30+ other boulders are spread out under the trees for over 1km to the east.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Old Fashioned Thrutching

Up the low angle wide crack, via old fashioned thrutching.

FA: Brendan Heywood, 2009

{US} V0- Boulder
1.2.2.1. Crown boulder 6 routes in Boulder
Summary:

Lat / Long: -30.473063, 150.926238

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Crown of Aragorn

On the east side of the boulder, climb the seam that turns into a crack. Down climb the north side of boulder V0-

FA: Todd Free & Steve Hawkshaw, 2010

V1 Boulder 5m
2 Crown Lager

Start as for Crown of Aragorn, then step right of crack and up on crystals to the top. Down climb north side of boulder (V0)

FA: Todd Free & Steve Hawkshaw, 2010

V1 Boulder
3 The way of the crown

This is the way down for the other problems on the boulder and it is easier to climb down this problem, then it is to climb up.

FA: Steve Hawkshaw, 2010

{US} V1 Boulder 4m
4 Open project 1 BoulderProject
5 Open project 2 BoulderProject
6 Open project 3 BoulderProject
1.2.2.2. Halle 1 route in Boulder
Summary:

Lat / Long: -30.473197, 150.921135

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Halle 5

SDS, seam then up

FA: Christoph Wuttke, 2010

{US} V0 Boulder
1.2.2.3. Unfinished 20 routes in Area
Summary:

Lat / Long: -30.473945, 150.923775

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Open project 2 BoulderProject
2 Open project 3 BoulderProject
3 Open project 4 BoulderProject
4 Open project 5

Sit start as low as you can and climb the wide crack up steep ground.

BoulderProject 3m
5 Open project 6 BoulderProject
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 Open project 7 BoulderProject
7 Open project 8 BoulderProject
8 Open project 9 BoulderProject
9 Open project 10 BoulderProject
10 Open project 11 BoulderProject
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
11 Open project 12 BoulderProject
12 Open project 13 BoulderProject
13 Open project 14 BoulderProject
14 Open project 16 BoulderProject
15 Open project 17 BoulderProject
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
16 Open project 18 BoulderProject
17 Open project 19 BoulderProject
18 Open project 21 BoulderProject
19 Open project 22 BoulderProject
20 Open project 23 BoulderProject
1.2.2.4. Slabofits area 1 route in Area
Summary:

Lat / Long: -30.473886, 150.921108

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 slabofits

Tall slab 3m right of open project 19. Up to awesome horizontal flake. Traverse right and head up through scoopy weakness at top. Committing moves at top.

FFA: S. Isaacs & N. Howell, 31 Mar 2012

V1 Boulder 6m
1.2.2.5. Heelgood cluster 4 routes in Area
Summary:

Lat / Long: -30.474152, 150.921083

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Eggstatic

5m south of the heelgood boulder

FA: Glenys Power, 8 Apr 2012

V0- Boulder
2 The gushess of York

Eastern face of heelgood boulder

FA: Adam Kiem, 8 Apr 2012

V3 Boulder
3 Blood gushing thorns

North face

FA: Chris McTaggart, 8 Apr 2012

V0 Boulder
4 Dr Heelgood

West face

FA: Chris Cowland, 8 Apr 2012

V2 Boulder
1.2.2.6. Ape factor 1 route in Boulder
Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Ape factor

FA: Damien Ayers, 6 Apr 2012

V3 Boulder
1.2.2.7. Egg cave 1 route in Boulder
Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Egg cave

FA: Tom Kjaer-Olsen, 6 Apr 2012

V1 Boulder
1.2.2.8. Fridge area 2 routes in Boulder
Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Look mum no hands

FA: Adam Kerz, 6 Apr 2012

V0- Boulder
2 Living in the fridge

FA: Damien Ayers, 6 Apr 2012

V2/3 Boulder
1.2.2.9. Hugs for lauren 1 route in Boulder
Summary:

Lat / Long: -30.474292, 150.920963

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 For Lauren

FA: Mark Feney, 7 Apr 2012

V0 BoulderProject
1.2.2.10. Ring-a Ring-a Rosie 1 route in Boulder
Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Ring-a Ring-a Rosie

From the right, sit start, then traverse left around the corner and some more then up.

FA: Alana Hazel, 6 Apr 2012

V0 Boulder
1.2.2.11. Cam was useless 1 route in Boulder
Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The consumerator 9000

FA: Cam Sear, 8 Apr 2012

V1/2 Boulder
1.2.2.12. Bloc on bloc 1 route in Boulder
Summary:

Lat / Long: -30.473961, 150.923373

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Bloc on Bloc

FA: Andy Freeman, 6 Apr 2012

V5 BoulderProject
1.2.2.13. Dynobar 3 routes in Boulder
Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Mars Bar

Sit start at the left end of boulder at the large suspect flake, 3m right of the start of Dynobar Dyno. Up to slopey traverse finishing at the final jug of the Dynobar Dyno.

FA: Tim Haasnoot, 29 Mar 2013

V3 Boulder 3m
2 Dynobar dyno

Stand start dyno off the jug, it's a long way and the top hold has gotten smaller over the years.

FA: Andy Freeman, 6 Apr 2012

V5 Boulder
3 Mantle Like Mendal

Starts on the western face of Dynobar boulder. Find the "jug" at the join in the 3 cracks. Straight up to the lip, then mantle to top out. V0- with feet on right face after first move.

FA: Hayden Witsel, 31 Mar 2013

V1 Boulder
1.2.2.14. Warmup 2 routes in Boulder
Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Left flake

FA: Andy Freeman, 6 Apr 2012

V1 Boulder
2 What Tomic lef behind

Sit start

FA: Andy Freeman, 6 Apr 2012

V3 Boulder

1.2.3. Goat Dome 12 routes in Area

Summary:
Bouldering, Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -30.478977, 150.920096

description

A nice orange and yellow streaked dome 45 metres high and 200m wide at the base. There are anchors in place for a grade 26+ sport climb on the north face. May be potential for an easy trad climb connecting features up the face. There is also an imposing overhanging crack that leads to a roof as well.

From the Donger follow the West Rd, past the warmup boulder and the dam near Area 37. You will pass through another gate and will be in a long, winding, narrow corridor. Follow the winding road for another 500m until you get to a gate. There will be a gate crossing the road and another to your left. Park off the road here. Head through the left gate and downhill for about 100m, then head into the trees to your left and you should be able to see the dome to the east. Once on the exposed granite of the dome, there is a tree about 3/4's to the top, sling this and rap down 25m to another lone pine growing from a crack above the steep part of the dome. Looking down towards the tree, there is a chain anchor to the left. It is 20 or so metres to the base of the dome. The sport route has a hard vertical start, then gets thinner and follows a pocketed seam through a bulge to the anchor you rapped off. Good Luck! Bring jumars to jug back up if you can’t climb out, or head west along the base and back up towards road.

1.2.3.1. On the way 4 routes in Area
Summary:
All Bouldering
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Home removals

FA: Toby Olive, 8 Apr 2012

V4 Boulder
2 Tobes desperate bro

FA: Toby Olive, 8 Apr 2012

V2 Boulder
3 top goat

FA: Toby Olive, 8 Apr 2012

V1 Boulder
4 one leg goat

FA: Toby Olive, 8 Apr 2012

V0 Boulder
1.2.3.2. Main Wall 8 routes in Area
Summary:
Bouldering, Sport climbing and Trad climbing

description

The highest part of the wall. Abseil down from tree at top centre of dome. Tree has an anchor to use, dont wrap rope around tree. Currently there is an anchor in place for a steep hard sport climb; see "Project" on main wall.

Other trad options may exist including some old school steep thrutchy stuff through a roof, bring your big bros!

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

The streaky slabs

The first western most section is all streaked slabs that curve to near vertical at the base. There may be a couple lines in weaknesses to get established.

1 Project

Abseil down from tree with sling at top of dome down about 15m towards dead tree. Look for 2 bolt anchor with rings beside tree on small ledge. Abseil again from anchor 20m to slab.

Route takes the orange vertical face on thin crimps to a slight bulge with incipient seam through it. Once through bulge angle eases to anchor.

No bolts are in place yet, just the anchor.

FA: Todd Free & Liam Jackson, 2008

24 - 28 SportProject 20m, 2

Fig tree cave

Further left / east there is a large cave with stepped roofs and cracks dominated by an amazing fig tree pillar

2 Crack project Boulder
3 Roof project Boulder
4 Crack left of fig

A hard roof crack start then vertical crack to ledge with two carabiners as anchor and rap off

FA: Sam May, 30 Mar 2013

19 Trad 10m
5 Upper ledge access route Boulder
6 Sharp crimpy face

A sharp short face which ends on the upper level. Has one hanger at the top for top rope.

FA: Maybe & Matt Minus, 2013

Sport 6m

Upper level

Further left there is an upper level. It can be reach via a short easy crack route or by an easy cave squeeze at the base of the same crack

7 No glove, no love

Fun easy hand crack traverse

V0 Boulder 5m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
8 Fig chimney project Boulder

1.2.4. Todd's Dome 46 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.488556, 150.914520

description

A long, narrow, low angle slab running west-east, with a group of large boulders at its higher east end. Home to a 20m grade 13 crack climb called "Zeds Dead" with potential for some sport climbs and numerous boulder problems within 200m of "Zed’s Dead".

To get there:

From the Donger head west along the road for about 2km. You will go through 2 (most likely) open gates. The third gate will be closed, if it is not, close it after you go through. You are now on Private Property. Follow the slashed road through the waist high grass to the south. The road will stay close to the fence and after about 700m there will be a gate in the fence to your left. Park here. (once you go through the gate or over the fence you are back on Beulah)

Climb the fence left of the gate and walk up hill until you see the start of the slab, then follow the slab uphill to its very end, which will be covered in trees on the north side, but open to excellent views to the south and east.

To find the crack climb head slightly south and down through the large boulders. A goat trail heads downhill under a boulder leaning against another one, creating a roof overhead. Don't go too far down hill, head to your right when it is possible to scramble over a small boulder, and in 10 metres you should be standing under a steep slab and Zed’s Dead is at the far end. Sweet crack needing small cams or wires and a couple larger cams to protect the traverse. Not called “Z” for nothing.

There are boulders to the north of the slab; before heading down to Zed. The most beastly of the boulders is as big as a house and sits precariously on a slab and is called the Colossus. There is a possible sport route on the very steep south west arête, but unless you are Chris Sharma, a ladder would be needed to access the first holds big enough for non-mutants to utilize. Hopefully as you progressed to the top of the boulder, your weight would not unbalance this behemoth and crush you; inspirational line though!

1.2.4.1. Dome top 1 route in Area
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.488502, 150.913597

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Misdirection

Start right up to winged hold

FA: Gareth Vaughan, 2010

{US} V1 Boulder
1.2.4.2. Zed's cliff 4 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -30.489225, 150.915648

description

Walk right over the dome back down to ground level via a ramped gully. At the bottom turn around and you should see a big zed crack.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Zed's Dead

Up the hand crack on left side of face, up to horizontal crack, then right to far corner & up. Gear to 5". Gear anchor required.

FA: Todd Free, 2006

14 Trad 18m
2 Zed's Still Dead

Up the slab to the right of crack, many variations. Exit up right corner to top. Trad anchor required.

FA: Todd Free, 2006

17 Trad 20m
1.2.4.3. Legoland 5 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.490090, 150.916767

description

A boulder cluster roughly 100m further east down the hill from "Zed's cliff".

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Lego castle

Traverse across sloping block to right then mantle, then up arete

FA: Brendan Heywood, 2010

{US} V2 Boulder
2 Under the branch

Up slab

FA: Josh Meyer, 2010

{US} V1 Boulder
3 Nipple

Up slab through break then more slab

FA: Leo Butler, 2010

{US} V0 Boulder
4 Pimple

Bridge then right up sloper

FA: Scott Cleland, 2010

{US} V1 Boulder
5 Lure

Up nice seams

FA: Gareth Vaughan, 2010

{US} V1 Boulder
1.2.4.4. Broken heart 1 route in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.489926, 150.917040

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Open project 9 BoulderProject
1.2.4.5. Licking boulder 7 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.490571, 150.915752

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The cow licked the cat

Up face, then layback to go

FA: Brendan Heywood, 2010

{US} V0 Boulder
2 Suck it up

Up opposing y-shaped rails

FA: Liam Jackson, 2010

{US} V2 Boulder
3 Flimsy flake

More direct version of 'Hold gone'

FA: Gareth Vaughan, 2010

{US} V3 Boulder
4 Hold gone

Up painful things to right

FA: Brendan Heywood, 2010

{US} V2 Boulder
5 Downward licking dog

SDS variant (the real deal)

FA: Aidan Smith, 2010

{US} V4 Boulder
6 Downward lapping puppy

Stand start on arete

FA: Brendan Heywood, 2010

{US} V1 Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
7 Mantle the dog

Next to licking boulder, SDS then mantle

FA: Gareth Vaughan, 2010

{US} V0 Boulder
1.2.4.6. Ili's area 4 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Wait till Ili gets up!

Straight up

FA: Ben Vincent, 2010

{US} V0 Boulder
2 Ili's lunch time

Straight up with sharp crimps

FA: Ben Vincent, 2010

{US} V0 Boulder
3 Sidewalk

SDS then straight up

FA: Graham Chase, 2010

{US} V0 Boulder
4 Pedestrian

SDS then up!

FA: Graham Chase, 2010

{US} V0 Boulder
1.2.4.7. Unfinished 17 routes in Area
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.488915, 150.915010

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Open project 1 BoulderProject
2 Open project 2 BoulderProject
3 Open project 3 BoulderProject
4 Open project 4 BoulderProject
5 Open project 5 BoulderProject
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 Open project 6 BoulderProject
7 Open project 7 BoulderProject
8 Open project 8 BoulderProject
9 Open project 10 BoulderProject
10 Open project 11 BoulderProject
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
11 Open project 12 BoulderProject
12 Open project 13 BoulderProject
13 Open project 14 BoulderProject
14 Open project 15 BoulderProject
15 Open project 16 BoulderProject
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
16 Open project 17 BoulderProject
17 Open project 18 BoulderProject
1.2.4.8. Leg Hold Trap 1 route in Area
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.488356, 150.916139

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Open project 1 BoulderProject
1.2.4.9. Cubism 4 routes in Area
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.488078, 150.915816

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Open project 1 BoulderProject
2 Open project 2 BoulderProject
3 Open project 3 BoulderProject
4 Open project 4 BoulderProject
1.2.4.10. Collosus 1 route in Area
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.487835, 150.915397

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Open project 1 BoulderProject
1.2.4.11. Easter Egg 1 route in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.489170, 150.915481

description

Uphill and west of the 'Zed's dead' gully.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Easter Egg Omelete

FA: Monica Wormald, 7 Apr 2012

V3 Boulder

1.2.5. Waterfall Dome 112 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.494655, 150.913524

description

The Waterfall dome is a large dome, 60m in height and runs about 200m at the base. So far, all the routes on the dome are bolted slabs from grade 18 to 24+. There is potential for more desperate smearing at even harder grades up nice dark streaks.

To Get There:

From the Donger head west along the road for about 2km. You will go through 2 (most likely) open gates. The third gate will be closed, if it is not, close it after you go through. You are now on Private Property.

Follow the slashed road through the waist high grass to the south. The road will stay close to the fence and after about 700m there will be a gate in the fence to your left. Go through the gate and close it behind you. This gate is to remain closed. Once you go through the gate or over the fence you are back on Beulah.

Follow the dual track trail that has been slashed along the fence. You will head slowly downhill to another gate that will most likely be open, and can remain open. Continue along the trail and after a couple hundred metres you will be at the parking area for the Waterfall Dome.

1.2.5.1. Waterfall North 31 routes in Area
Summary:
Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.491244, 150.915487

description

To Get There:

From the Donger head west along the road for about 2km. You will go through 2 (most likely) open gates. The third gate will be closed, if it is not, close it after you go through. You are now on Private Property.

Follow the slashed road through the waist high grass to the south. The road will stay close to the fence and after about 700m there will be a gate in the fence to your left. Go through the gate and close it behind you. This gate is to remain closed. Once you go through the gate or over the fence you are back on Beulah.

When you go through the gate and start following the fence line down hill to the Waterfall Dome itself, up the hill to your left is the Waterfall Dome North area. Hop the fence at almost any point and head up hill to find lots of boulders with great potential.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Big Humpty

Start on the crumbly rock, and up onto overhanging flake to top. Can be lead if you have a bunch of big-bros, otherwise top-rope. Gear anchor required.

FA: TR, 2009

18 Trad 20m
2 Open project 1 BoulderProject
3 Open project 2 BoulderProject
4 Scoop BoulderProject
5 Open project 3 BoulderProject
6 Biltong

From break up slopey ramp to top out

FA: Nick Howell & Steve Isaacs, 8 Apr 2012

V1 Boulder 3m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
7 Open project 4 BoulderProject
8 Open project 5 BoulderProject
9 Open project 6 BoulderProject
10 Open project 7 BoulderProject
11 Open project 8 BoulderProject
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
12 Open project 9 BoulderProject
13 Open project 10 BoulderProject
14 Open project 11 BoulderProject
15 Open project 12 BoulderProject
16 Open project 13 BoulderProject
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
17 Open project 14 BoulderProject
18 Open project 15 BoulderProject
19 Open project 16 BoulderProject
1.2.5.1.1. The Hood Wall 12 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.489278, 150.912322

description

A 'wall' of 4 boulders, starting at large prominent boulder on the right, with 'Don't really care', then following left to include 'Angsty, the emotionally advanced Tiny Teddy', the classic 'King of the Wagon', and warmups on 'Mosquito Coil' and 'Citronella'.

approach

Approach as for Waterfall north, park at the top of the first hill where the track widens and jump the fence in sight of boulders 20m uphill. Watch out for spiders and snakes.

history

Developed by the SICG Villawood team at their debut appearance at Beulah Rock Festivus 2012.

1.2.5.2. Fenceline 1 route in Area
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.493944, 150.913877

summary

a good selection of boulders downhill (north) of Natural Selection boulder.

approach

From the road along the fence into Waterfall Dome, park at the obvious boulder at the base of the "hill" and walk downhill south to some bare rock that can be creek when it rains, head further south, over the fence and you will see the boulders. Distance to fence 200m.

1.2.5.2.1. Natural Selection 1 route in Area
Summary:

Lat / Long: -30.493958, 150.913903

1.2.5.3. Waterfall Dome 7 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Sport climbing and Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.497026, 150.913346

description

Currently there is 3 sport routes on the dome, fully bolted with lower off anchors. All routes have potential for a 2nd pitch and all have the second pitch anchor installed already, they just require the bolts in between.

approach

From the Waterfall parking area, follow the quad trail that heads south. Cross the creek and head up hill or right along the quad trail. Down the trail a bit you will see a group of three large boulders called the Three Stooges. Pass them on the left and head uphill towards the black streaks on the dome.

The bolted line on the far right starting near a tree is "Tribute to Dangles"

descent notes

All routes require a 60m rope to lower off.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 On the Shoulders of Giants

Line of bolts up water streak through white vertical rock to chain anchor.

2010 Red point project

FA: Richard Sonnerdale, 2010

{US} AU:23 Sport 25m, 9
2 Open Project

In between "On the Shoulders of Giants" and "Tribute to Dangles". Start on top of the large block wedged between a stump and the dome. Follow line of bolts for 32 m to a ledge. Can just make it to the ground with stretch of a 60m rope. Belayer, watch the end of the rope when lowering.

FA: T.Free & G.Plunkett, 17 Apr 2011

SportProject 32m, 11
3 Tribute to Dangles

Follow 8 bolts up steep improbable looking line of thin crimps. Chain anchor.

2009 Red point route

FFA: Aidan Smith, 2009

FA: Todd Free, 2009

{US} AU:21 Sport 27m, 2, 8
4 Philosophers Stone

Starts up a boulder at the base of the cliff about 8 meters to the right of 'Tribute to dangles'.

A thin start leads to a great slab with holds!! A great hands free rest before the top crux, traverse low and over to a great slab jug (don't get suckered up to the hanging flake) Beware of loose flake at the top out left.

FFA: Ben Jenga, 7 Apr 2012

19 Sport 28m, 10
5 Snake in the Grass

Up arete, tops out onto the ledge where the climbs start from

FA: Richard Sonnerdale, 2010

{US} V4 Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 It's a girl

Directly under the 2011 project.

FA: Eliza Hull, 7 Apr 2012

V1 Boulder
7 The Never Ending Story that Never Ends... and then Ends

Located 30m before the 2013 Red Point Route on the walking track up to it.

SDS on the crimp rail on left hand-side of left-leaning seam/thin crack. Boulder up following crack to flake, and traverse left off flake to finish the route.

Any part of the main boulder itself is "in", the detached blocks on the ground are "out".

FA: Alan Ezzy, 30 Mar 2013

V0 Boulder 5m
1.2.5.4. Waterfall Boulders 53 routes in Area
Summary:
Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.496890, 150.914783

description

This area encompasses any boulder near the Waterfall Dome. At present this is a large crescent shaped area that wraps around the base of the dome.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Conrad's mum

SDS Up crack then out left

FA: Ben Cumming, 2010

{US} V0 Boulder
1.2.5.4.1. River rock 1 route in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.496618, 150.916075

description

This standalone rock is on the river slab to you left as you cross the creek.

1.2.5.4.2. Group Effort 2 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.495966, 150.915414

approach

One of the first boulders, as soon as you cross the creek head up hill for roughly 100m

1.2.5.4.3. Three Stooges 9 routes in Area
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.496750, 150.915138

description

These very large boulders are clumped together in a nice threesome only minutes from the parking area for the Waterfall Dome. Head up towards the dome and you are sure to pass these on your right. The most impressive steep face will be facing you and has no holds unfortunately, unless you are a mutant maybe.

1.2.5.4.4. Big boy boulder 10 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.495780, 150.914752

description

From the Waterfall Dome Parking area follow the quad trail to the Dome, once you see the 'Three Stooges' boulders, go uphill passing the stooges on the right for about 100m. As the hill gets steeper look to the right and you should see this boulder. Routes are listed from downhill to uphill.

1.2.5.4.5. Unfinished 23 routes in Area
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.495540, 150.914505

1.2.5.4.6. Saturday Boulder 6 routes in Boulder
Summary:
Bouldering and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -30.497359, 150.914383

description

It is actually two very large boulders leaning on each other. It is possible to scrabble up the thin gully and bridge to the top to access the chains but it is a little committing.

approach

From the Waterfall Dome parking area, follow the quad trail until it ends, which is pretty obvious due to the steepness of the terrain. At the end of the trail you will be looking at "Saturday's Route", a bolted arete, next to a foot wide crack.

1.2.5.4.7. Scar Tissue boulder 1 route in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -30.497845, 150.913326

description

From Saturdays route or the main wall, keep walking south around the contour and slightly down hill for 120m. Scar Tissue is a very obvious cleaned crack facing downhill.

1.2.5.5. Catchemboy Boulders 20 routes in Area
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.498961, 150.912399

description

Good high potential in the "usually" dry Catchemboy Creek.

From the Waterfall parking area, follow the quad trail that heads south and crosses the creek. Cross the creek and follow it upstream for about 20m where you will pick up the quad trail again. Follow the quad trail to where it ends at "Saturday Boulder" From here Catchemboy Creek is straight south about 400 m.

Once in the creek head up stream and you will see a string of boulders that range in size from car to large house. The rock seems better quality further upstream, but more scouting and scrubbing is needed.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Open project 1 BoulderProject
2 Open project 2 BoulderProject
3 Open project 3 BoulderProject
4 Open project 4 BoulderProject
5 Open project 5 BoulderProject
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 Open project 6 BoulderProject
7 Open project 7 BoulderProject
8 Not enough zoom

Looks contrived but pretty cool. Start low on the rail, slap left, slap right, funky mantle

FA: Ben Vincent, 7 Apr 2012

V4 Boulder
9 The instructor

Typical granite mantle

FA: George Plunket, 7 Apr 2012

V1 Boulder
10 Open project 8 BoulderProject
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
11 Snake pit

Start lowish in the 'snake pit', kinda sideways mantle into the corner then delicate bridging

FA: Brendan Heywood, 7 Apr 2012

V2 Boulder
12 Trees are for pussies

The tree used to be a bit in the way for cheating but has since been pushed aside.

FA: Andrew Woolley, 7 Apr 2012

V1 Boulder
13 This is Arnold

FA: George Plunket, 7 Apr 2012

V0 Boulder
14 You just need lunch

FA: Debbie Burgis, 7 Apr 2012

V1 Boulder
15 Happy dance

FA: Ben Vincent, 7 Apr 2012

V2 Boulder
16 What would george do

FA: George Plunket, 7 Apr 2012

V2 Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
17 Open project 10 BoulderProject
18 Open project 11 BoulderProject
19 Open project 12 BoulderProject
20 Open project 13 BoulderProject

1.3. Central Areas 108 routes in Area

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.485047, 150.925138

description

Central Area includes all the boulders south of the turn for the Swamp Boulders.

1.3.1. Crystal Method 15 routes in Area

Summary:

Lat / Long: -30.478364, 150.931469

description

A small gathering of boulders. Some nice stuff, with potential for more.

From the Donger follow the East Rd passed the turn for the Swamp Boulders. Just after the turn for the Swamp Boulders the road gets a little rough as it goes through some trees. Drive slow!

The road will be slashed as you come out of the trees and start to head south through large, flat open paddock. Watch for a sign that says "Crystal" on your left. Follow the slashed trail east through the grass. When the slashed trail ends you are there.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 AMAzing

SDS, Up crack

FA: Nathan Blazevic, 2010

{US} V0 Boulder
2 The Rich Method

Would go sit start but much harder. Up on good holds to mantle over top

FA: Richard Sonadale, 7 Apr 2012

V1 Boulder 4m
3 Mantle Method

Stand start mantle over the top.

FA: Tim Haasnoot, 7 Apr 2012

V2 Boulder 4m
4 Pressed out

Mantle over the left end of the boulder

FA: Tim Haasnoot, 7 Apr 2012

V0 Boulder 3m
5 The Quartz Method

Small holds up face

FA: Tim Haasnoot, 7 Apr 2012

V1 Boulder 4m
6 Granited

stand start up the middle, thin moves to pull over lip

FA: Tim Haasnoot, 7 Apr 2012

V3 Boulder 4m
1.3.1.1. Crystal Method 2 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.478020, 150.930972

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Born Too Slow

Start low on edges, up to large square crystal, pull on these up through bulge.

FA: Todd Free, 2006

{US} V2 Boulder
2 Un-Named

SDS on small edges up arete to sloping mantel to out.

FA: Brendan Heywood, 2008

{US} V4 Boulder
1.3.1.2. EZ 1 route in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.478168, 150.931234

approach

From the Donger follow the East Rd passed the turn for the Swamp Boulders. Just after the turn for the Swamp Boulders the road gets a little rough as it goes through some trees. Drive slow!

The road will be slashed as you come out of the trees and start to head south through large, flat open paddock. Watch for a sing that says "Crystal" on your left. Follow the slashed trail east through the grass. When the slashed trail ends you are there.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 EZ Like Sunday Morning

The very easy low angle arete on left half of split boulder.

FA: Todd Free, 2006

{US} V0- Boulder
1.3.1.3. III 2 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.478783, 150.931111

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Eight Ball

Up twin cracks.

FA: Todd Free, 2006

{US} V0- Boulder
2 Corner Pocket

Easy mantel off good edge.

FA: Todd Free, 2006

{US} V0- Boulder
1.3.1.4. Unfinished 4 routes in Area
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.478875, 150.931565

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Open project 1 BoulderProject
2 Open project 2 BoulderProject
3 Open project 3 BoulderProject
4 Open project 4 BoulderProject

1.3.2. VLB 2 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: -30.479000, 150.924500

description

The Very Large Boulder. As its name implies, this single boulder sitting alone in a paddock has a few lines on it, and room for more.

approach

From the Donger follow the East Rd passed the turn for the "Swamp Boulders". Just after the turn for the Swamp Boulders the road gets a little rough as it goes through some trees. Drive slow! The road will be slashed as you come out of the trees and start to head south through large, flat open paddock.

Stay on the road until you get to another gate that will most likely be open and can remain open, where you should be able to see the "VLB" to the west (right). The slashed road branches at this gate. (The north face of "Goat Dome" is also visible from this point to the west)

To get to the "VLB" head to the right. When you come to the low wet spot in the road near the tree, check to see your vehicle can get through it or not. At this point you can walk to the "VLB" anyway.

history

If you have been to a Festivus before, you have met the dogs: Wedge, Bruiser, Bubbles and Cloud.

Many moons ago Wedge and Bubbles conceived Bruiser on top of the VLB. We were not aware Bubbles was "in season" but Wedge was and made his move on top of the VLB. We were ready to leave when we noticed them "locked" intimately together after the deed was done. Wedge heard the quad start up and just about leapt off the VLB with poor Bubbles in tow! Not sure which of them would have been hurt more? We had to yell at him to stop and we remained there until the lovers detached from one another.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Walk Off

Very easy slab. Down climb for all other problems on boulder.

FA: Todd Free, 2006

{US} V0- Boulder
2 Goliath

SDS sharp rock to massive flake.

FA: Matt, 25 Apr 2011

V1 Boulder

1.3.3. PLB 0 routes in Field

description

A Pretty Large Boulder, but not quite as big as the Very Large Boulder (VLB)

1.3.4. Bondi and Fox boulders 72 routes in Area

Summary:

Lat / Long: -30.484766, 150.924972

description

From the Donger follow the East Rd passed the turn for the "Swamp Boulders". Just after the turn for the Swamp Boulders the road gets a little rough as it goes through some trees. Drive slow! The road will be slashed as you come out of the trees and start to head south through large, flat open paddock.

Stay on the road until you get to another gate that will most likely be open and can remain open, where you should be able to see the "VLB" to the west (right). The slashed road branches at this gate. (The north face of "Goat Dome" is also visible from this point to the west)

Going either way at this point will get you to Fox and Bondi Boulders.

To get to the Fox Boulders first, head to the right:

Not far along to the right you will come to a low wet spot in the road near a tree. Check to see if your vehicle can get through first. If you can follow the slashed trail as it heads south and uphill. The first boulders you see on your left on the little knoll is the start of the "Fox Boulders". Keep going and you will head downhill into a clearing. The boulders at the bottom and right have some good potential and if you head uphill and over the fence passed these, there is more to be found.

To get to the Bondi Boulders first head left:

Follow the slashed trail that heads to the left, should be signs. You will come to a gate that will most likely be open and can remain that way. Dont go through the gate. Follow the slashed trail to the right, through a low sandy spot and finally to another white gate. Park here.

Hop the fence and head up hill and to the left. You should see a large boulder called "The Natural" sitting on some exposed granite with a nice arete facing east, the arete is "Spaceship Landing"

Head uphill for the rest of the boulders and follow the ridge when you get to the top to the northwest and you will end up in the trees up hill from "The Fox Boulder".

approach

To get here follow the directions to the VLB, but when you get to the final gate head left, following the road to a gate. At the gate, follow the fence to the right for about 200m (faint dual track) to another gate. Hop the fence, since the gate will not open, and head up hill for 20m then side hill along an obvious goat trail which will bring you to a large boulder sitting by itself on some exposed granite. This is the start of the Bondi boulders. Head straight up hill into the trees for the remaining 6-15 boulders.

To get to the Fox boulders, don’t jump the gate that will not open, and continue following the fence as it goes up hill and northwest. After 250m you will see the Fox Boulders. A group of 4 medium sized boulders that require some cleaning. Highlights will be a high blunt arête and a short heinous overhanging fingertip crack.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Klingon

SDS, Easy undercling then nice jugs to top

FA: Brendan Heywood, 2010

{US} V0 Boulder
2 Flicking the bean

Through break the up thin crimps to left dyno

FA: Rhys Van Gastel, 2010

{US} V7 Boulder
3 Not yet finished

Scrubbed 3/4s of it so far. Easy start to a committing top out. Have attentive spotters. Will be a classic!

Boulder 5m
4 Scoop

Up the slight scoop/corner. May need another light scrub.

FA: Unknown, 2008

{US} V1 Boulder
1.3.4.1. The Natural 2 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.485216, 150.926412

description

After jumping the fence, veer left and follow the track along the contour for 150m to a large isolated boulder, this is the Natural boulder.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Slab Project

Bulge start to slab. Has been done as a 'stand on someones shoulders' start.

BoulderProject 5m
2 Spaceship Landing

Up the blunt well featured arete on the southeast corner of boulder.

FA: Todd Free, 2006

{US} V1 Boulder
1.3.4.2. Campus Boulder 9 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.485559, 150.925895

description

From natural keep walking another 50m along the contour.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Campus girls are easy

Campus moves then rock right

FA: Brendan Heywood, 2010

{US} V2 Boulder
2 March fly

Follow seam

FA: Ben Vincent, 2010

{US} V2 Boulder
3 Whatever mantle

One move mantle

FA: Chas Ruffles, 2010

{US} V1 Boulder
4 Mantle in the park

Almost one move mantle

FA: Brendan Heywood, 2010

{US} V0- Boulder
5 Old 55

SDS, Side pulls to break and mantle

FA: Chas Ruffles, 2010

{US} V2 Boulder
6 Martha

From diagonal rail up to mantle

FA: Chas Ruffles, 2010

{US} V2 Boulder
7 pretty shit

One move mantle

FA: Chas Ruffles, 2010

{US} V2 Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
8 Smelly Rock Wallaby

Start left, go right

FA: Iliane Beuke, 2010

{US} V0- Boulder
9 Stu goes to preschool

Feet on break then up

FA: Stu Robertson, 2010

{US} V0- Boulder
1.3.4.3. Turkish Boulder 3 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.485377, 150.925863

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Liam stop pinching

Two pinches up left groove

FA: Brendan Heywood, 2010

{US} V1 Boulder
2 Turkish delight

High mantle then match on tiny rail and top out right

FA: Brendan Heywood, 2010

{US} V4 Boulder
3 Bob Gnarley

Dirty but good holds. Feet crumbly. harder than it looks

FA: Brendan Heywood, 2010

{US} V1 Boulder
1.3.4.4. Corner 1 route in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

description

A large boulder with a faint corner on the left hand side facing downhill.

approach

AS for Gimme Shelter, then up hill 5m.

history

Cleaned in 2006.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Corner

FA: Aidan Smith, 2010

{US} V2 Boulder
1.3.4.5. Flake's R Us 3 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Flake traverse

Follow the flake - and don't fall

FA: Brendan Heywood, 2010

{US} V0 Boulder
2 Sausage Stew

Left flake then top out

FA: Chas Ruffles, 2010

{US} V2 Boulder
3 Swerve right

Up right flake

FA: Liam Jackson, 2010

{US} V1 Boulder
1.3.4.6. Gimme Shelter 1 route in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.485143, 150.925379

description

A nice looking boulder with an overhanging face facing downhill with a great lip traverse from a sit down start.

approach

From the white gate where you park, hop the fence head up hill til you see the very obvious goat track heading to your left. Follow this until you get to The Natural Boulder sitting on an exposed bit of granite. Climb the natural boulder then head up hill from here. Halfway up the hill you will see Gimme Shelter.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Lip Service

SDS on right and climb left up the arete to the top of boulder.

FA: Todd Free, 2006

{US} V2 Boulder
1.3.4.7. Heel and toe 1 route in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Heel and toe

SDS, Heel and toe

FA: Aidan Smith, 2010

{US} V1 Boulder
1.3.4.8. Messin Round 2 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.485279, 150.925393

description

The business side of this boulder faces away from the parking area and has some of Beulah's coarsest rock on it.

approach

From the parking area for the Bondi Boulders head up hill to the goat track, follow it to the left and then up hill once you get to the Natural Boulder. No Messin Round is uphill and slightly left.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 No Messin Round

SDS. Up the short steep face.

FA: Brendan Heywood, 2008

{US} V4 Boulder
2 Un-Named

Very easy short mantel.

FA: Gretta Free, 2008

{US} V0- Boulder
1.3.4.9. Nose Boulder 4 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.484629, 150.925466

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Me likey likey

Funny little laybacky thing then up

FA: Johl Sue, 2010

{US} V0 Boulder
2 Caramel slice

Up

FA: Brendan Heywood, 2010

{US} V0 Boulder
3 Bondi nose

Up the inside corner, through dead roots

FA: Brendan Heywood, 2010

{US} V1 Boulder
4 Mid summer moss

SDS, Up rail

FA: Liam Jackson, 2010

{US} V1 Boulder
1.3.4.10. Pink lady boulder 2 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 High heels

Crystals for hands and feet

FA: Ben Vincent, 2010

{US} V1 Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 Skirt time

Go up

FA: Graham Chase, 2010

{US} V1 Boulder
1.3.4.11. Pizza Time 1 route in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.484371, 150.925268

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Time for Pizza, Helmut / Awkward

171: Delicate feet, layback then slaps (Sorry Ben you were'nt the first)

FA: Todd Free, 2006

FA: Todd Free, 2006

{US} V2 Boulder
1.3.4.12. Black Arete 2 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.484296, 150.924712

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Black Arete

Slaps and then more slaps

FA: Aidan Smith, 2010

{US} V3 Boulder
2 Stuck to the Bottom

SDS, Thin roof holds, right heel hook then up

FA: Chas Ruffles, 2010

{US} V5 Boulder
1.3.4.13. Unfinished 17 routes in Area
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.483930, 150.924870

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Open project 1 BoulderProject
2 Open project 2 BoulderProject
3 Open project 3 BoulderProject
4 Open project 4 BoulderProject
5 Open project 5 BoulderProject
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 Open project 6 BoulderProject
7 Open project 7 BoulderProject
8 Open project 8 BoulderProject
9 Open project 9 BoulderProject
10 Open project 10 BoulderProject
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
11 Open project 11 BoulderProject
12 Open project 12 BoulderProject
13 Open project 13 BoulderProject
14 Open project 14 BoulderProject
15 Open project 15 BoulderProject
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
16 Open project 16 BoulderProject
17 Open project 17 BoulderProject
1.3.4.14. Geckos guild boulders 19 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

description

Far North East boulders of Fox and Bondi boulders on a rise to the left of the road. Obvious concentrated hilltop.

approach

Take the right hand road at the Bondi/Fox road junction (towards the Fox boulder), across a small gully and 100-200m up a rise, the area will be visible on the left of the road as you come to the crest.

history

Little to date. First problems appear to be from Joe and Eddie Burrill and Abagail Pirie in 2011. Artie Schultz and Rhyan Bassett put up more in 2013, along with Matt (last name unknown) from Sydney. Several cleaned projects await, and still lots of potential for more problems.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 La Chinina

Closest boulder to the road. Right hand side of face, up small face holds to top.

FA: Artie Schultz, 30 Mar 2013

V1 Boulder 3m
2 La Accessa

Back side of boulder, behind La Chinina. Easy access route to the top.

FA: Artie Schultz, 30 Mar 2013

V0 Boulder 2m
3 La Projecta

Awesome pinch problem with very bad feet up the obvious arete.

V5 BoulderProject 4m
4 Rambona

Excellent crack line on smooth rock with a few slopey face holds, jug topout

FA: Rhyan Bassett, 30 Mar 2013

V1 Boulder 4m
5 14 Inch Anal Stormtrooper

3m right of Rambona, sweet fine grained rock. Layback the sidepull at head height, slopey jugs at the top.

FA: Artie Schultz, 30 Mar 2013

V2 Boulder 4m
6 Afterthought

2m right of 14IAS, short flake, not as worthwile as the other problems on this boulder.

FA: Artie Schultz, 30 Mar 2013

V0 Boulder 3m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
7 Toms 2 Fingers

At the top of the hill. Sitstart in the corner crack, then right up big flake, smaller holds at the top. Sweet problem.

FA: Artie Schultz, 30 Mar 2013

V0 Boulder 4m
8 What Could I Do

2m right of T2F, short crimper problem

FA: Artie Schultz, 30 Mar 2013

V1 Boulder 3m
9 Red Ferrari

20m across the hill from Geckos Nostrils Bloc. Pretty cool, start in the corner crack, then crimps and small feet to top.

FA: Rhyan Bassett, 30 Mar 2013

V2 Boulder 3m
10 White Lamborghini

Same start as RF but trend left to small edges to top out.

FA: Artie Schultz, 30 Mar 2013

V1 Boulder 3m
11 Geckos Nostrils

Backside of the hill, above Geckos Nubbin boulder. Sit start up arete to 2 pockets.

FA: Joe Burrill, 25 Apr 2011

V1 Boulder
12 Unamed

2m right of Geckos Nostrils. SDS on 2 small crimps straight up.

FA: Eddie Burrill, 25 Apr 2011

V1 Boulder
13 Matts Project

2m to the right of Unnamed, awesome looking prow type feature

BoulderProject 4m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
14 Geckos Ghetto

SDS on lip holds. deadpoint throw to decent crimp and mantle

FA: Matt, 25 Apr 2011

V5 Boulder
15 Not yet finished

Amazing problem. Sit start on rail and go straight up. The first rail is flaking and will come off, getting someone to hold it in works

V5 Boulder
16 Geckos Holiday

Opposite side of boulder to Geckos Nubbin. Up easy face.

FA: Abagail Pirie, 25 Apr 2011

V0 Boulder
17 White Powder Addiction

2m left of Geckos Holiday, weird start in the fold then sidepull and edges to top.

FA: Artie Schultz, 30 Mar 2013

V0 Boulder 3m
18 Geckos Nubbin

Back side of the hill from the road. Up obvious crack to scary looking but solid pebble.

FA: Eddie Burrill, 25 Apr 2011

V3 Boulder
19 Project

3m right of Geckos Nubbin, hard to get off the ground but looks easier above

BoulderProject 3m
1.3.4.15. The Fox Boulder 1 route in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.482581, 150.924652

description

A nice large boulder with an obvious steep arete on the northeast face and very strenuous over hanging seam on the north face.

approach

From the gate wear the road branches head right and follow slashed trail up to the Fox Boulders and then downhill into the clearing. "The Fox Boulder" is the first one you should see from the trail and you will be looking at the Arete.

history

The very last route scrubbed, clean and sent at the 5th Annual.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Pommy Arete

The obvious left and steep arete to the top of boulder. Down climb the slab to the left of arete.

FFA: Matt from the UK, 26 Apr 2011

V4 Boulder 4m

1.3.5. Shooting range ridge 19 routes in Field

Summary:

Lat / Long: -30.490249, 150.920095

1.3.5.1. Fence corner cluster 4 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.493477, 150.921730

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Face

FA: carol lee, 15 Apr 2017

V3 Boulder 4m
2 Left arete

Stand start L of F. Basically and awkward campus with poor feet.

FA: Scott Camps, 15 Apr 2017

Boulder 4m
3 Rail

Layback stand start on obvious rail. Top out U and R.

FA: Ben Vincent, 15 Apr 2017

V2 Boulder 2m
4 Throwim Way Leg

Stand start using R pinch. Up to lip traverse R and mantle.

FA: Ben Vincent, 15 Apr 2017

V3 Boulder 3m
1.3.5.2. Two fists 2 routes in Field
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.494081, 150.920817

description

From the fence corner head up hill slightly trending left for about 50m to a mini cave with a perfect hand crack through it

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Trogdor The Burninator

Sit start, hand jam through roof then fists through bulge and scary highball topout.

FA: Ben Vincent, 15 Apr 2017

V4 Boulder 5m
2 Mottled Moth

Uphill to the right is a left trending crack. Sit start.

FA: Ben Vincent, 15 Apr 2017

V3 Boulder 3m
1.3.5.3. Fridge top ridge top 13 routes in Sector
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.486471, 150.916736

1.3.5.3.1. Bikie Siege Boulder 4 routes in Boulder
Summary:

Lat / Long: -30.488802, 150.919396

description

A massive obvious boulder with a few highball routes and a hard traverse project.

approach

In the northeast corner of the Shooting Range Ridge Area, 200m and just visible from the road.

1.3.5.3.2. Ambition area 5 routes in Sector
Summary:

Lat / Long: -30.487014, 150.917821

1.3.5.3.3. Anatomy Park 3 routes in Boulder
Summary:

Lat / Long: -30.486578, 150.916187

description

Right on the top of the ridge.

approach

Park in paddock before (north of) firing range up against fence west of the road. Bust up the bouldery gully, passing Ambition Area at 2/3rds height, to the very top of the ridge line.

1.3.5.3.4. A Jam For The Ladies 1 route in Boulder
Summary:

Lat / Long: -30.485894, 150.916212

description

Sit start slightly overhanging vertical jam.

approach

Head North-northeast for 200m from Anatomy Park

1.4. Eastern areas 241 routes in Area