Routes in Black Hill

Re established via V7 boulder problem after start holds fell off many years ago. Start directly below first bolt via hard undercling (not the big incut... That's on ugly voyage) then continue.

Rebolted 06/23 with bolts and glue provided by Safer Cliffs Victoria.

Obvious vertical then stepped crack. Good climbing.

NZ muscles! Behind Liptasm on the inner green lip. Low start at far right arête brings the jugs to hand then traverse left to flake and up. Seems burlier than it should.

Stand start on slopes just left of the obvious square cut layaway. A couple of in moves gains the slab... beware the pasted on plates.

Start off lower if 2 boulders 3m left of Wish My... A couple of moves gains the great horizontal black dyke. Mantle this then quest up the black runnel above.

Face between Go Dog Go and Shark's Fin Soup past 2 RB's to an easy slab shared with the later. This is protected by a few cams or large wires.

The big tree was prior to the fires used as the belay. As badly burnt, a DRB anchor has been added 12/23. Route rebolted 01/24. Bolts and glue provided by Safer Cliffs Victoria.

Orange wall 15 metres right of Pull the Ripcord. Face climb up 3 RBs to a DRB lower off.

Would be a 3 star classic if only it didn't have such teeth. Sit Start at left hand end of obvious lip traverse, engage hamstrings and aim for the obvious crack at the far right end. Mantle. Can be done right to left at the same grade.

Start on ground level sloped shelf that marks the end of TAFMT. Sustained slabbing left and up finishing once established in small incipient corner at far left end. V6/7

Line starting off pedestal left end of chasm.

SDS Left arete of central cleft.

Excellent obscure and hard at 23 (whoever put it at 22 is on drugs... many very good climbers regularly onsighting 24 have failed to get up this despite multiple attempts). Having said that it climbs exceptionally well when you find the right positions.

The superb looking finger seam up the front of the buttress. Small cams in the good slot between the first 2 BR. 2nd BR is positioned too high so may need clipping with a wire.

DRB anchor shared with Dicky Knee Dihedral.

The line to the right of Fun Guy. Up the face last a fixed hanger, then continue up to a carrot bolt and top out at the same anchors as Fun Guy. Double ring anchor.

Golden Path into PUM stand. Only V4 to the stand but sustained crimping tips it over the line.

Meaty stand start on right facing underclings between the Blackness and RHS leads to deceptively poor edges and mantle.

Up offwidth then traverse left and straight up after last bolt. Sling tree to clean. Anchors to be installed soon. Around left from No Sweat below Pull the Ripcord. Two fixed hangers.

The obvious undercut arete down the hill from the slab. Grab the perfect edge, Step up high and try to remain in balance. Martin Lama has climbed the wall just opposite - looks good.

Consensus 26 to avoid the broken bits of the previous routes.

Climb to first bolt on BV then traverse into PUM and up. 7 RB.

Rebolted 06/23. Bolts and glue provided by Safer Cliffs Victoria.

The west arête... fun and easy warm up which would be much improved by a good brush of the upper arête

Stand start at left end of face (the good square cut hold didn’t exist on FA). A couple of nice moves gain the arete and up.

Climbs the obvious rising jug flake on the front of Leviathan. Crux mantle then quest to a very high finish over an appalling landing. Its probably more like 22/3... but a V1 climber would find it pretty mind expanding.

Outstanding climbing direct up the middle of the face. Classic. FFA Steven Wilson ~2010

Once languishing with one lonely high and rusted carrot it seemed unlikely this was ever led. It definitely wasn't 20 as originally listed! Re-bolted in 2012 with 3 RB. Its good. (Post Edit - had been led prior to 2012 by a number of people)

Exquisite. Sit start in the middle of the middle block and traverse the sinuous lip left, through and up to a climactic finish and mantle back right (lying down or bridging on the left block at the finish is a definite no no).

R to left traverse of whole face. Will be harder if shelf rest eliminated.

The line retrobolted with 2 carrots. Highball and awesome.

Arete right side of the cleft.

2 black hill stars.

Now traverses in from right past a painted FH after the tree stump it started off burnt plus starting holds fell off the original direct start. 2 RB and a couple of wigglies in the excellent corner. DRB anchor

Rebolted including new anchor 12/23. Bolts and glue provided by Safer Cliffs Victoria.

Sit Start 3m left of PUM stand on excellent golden edges. Traverse up and right to gain the stand start (the large undercling above is out, about V2 with it in).

Directly opposite Peabody Express. Sit start and up left over obvious steep short prow.

As for the warm up arête but heel hooking the lower arête eliminated. Ends up staying further left spanning the arêtes.

Very low sit on the big undercling and LH slopes. Up to gain arete and on. Cool.

Sit start 4m right of Max. Climb the right leading flake then back left via edges to gain the Max ledge. The down climb is fall off-able so might be worth practicing that first.

Excellent twin arete on the SE corner of the block (right hand side approaching from above). High and proud this is actually much less committing than it looks. Descent is via one of the East face problems (also V2) so best to have someone who can move your mats into place.

Sit start with LH gaston (LaL start) and low RH layaway. Push up right to join BVL at very thin flake.

The RH line with 1 carrot. A little shorter and with a better landing than #2.

Middle of the uphill face. Crux is pulling on. Eeasiest descent because of this.

Sit start as for the Golden Path. Up via large undercling to jug (or layaway jug up left if you feel inclined). V1 as a stand which makes one wonder why people are forever building cairns to get into the route!

Stand start just left of lower left arete climbing into obvious scoop.

The right hand slab line round the corner from BV. Spaced RB's.

DRB anchor and replaceable rap rings shared with Sink The Sausage added 04/23. Rebolted 12/23. Bolts and glue provided by Safer Cliffs Victoria.

Reach dependent sit start at right end of dyke. V4 if you stack to reach jug, V4/5 if you can reach the good edge mid height on the dyke, V6 from slimps at base of dyke.

Lovely blonde face starting off the jumble of life threatening spikes. Great moves... but don’t jump off!

Stand start 2m right of Max below the dripping black dyke that doesnt quite reach the ground.

Location TBC... Stand start on the obvious jug loaf layaway. Long moves between good edges to gain the big horizontal holds at 4m. Part 2 will continue to the top at V8/9, while a Vheavy sit start waits for they who can campus 1-6

Bolts on Granite Slab II is the next climb directly right of Bolts on Granite Slab.

Use medium wires or small cams above the bolts.

Fantastic flat edges bust up the unlikely golden wall just right of Aretika. Start move is the hardest although a tenuous move or two near the top as well.

Charlie did another line right of #3. Choose your own adventure.

Arete into scoop.

Good climbing past 2 RB. Note it is easy but runout through the scoop to 2nd RB. Can be climbed direct at top but most step left. DBB with FHs anchor on top.

Rebolted 12/23. Bolts and glue provided by Safer Cliffs Victoria.

Stand start on very thin lay always a metre or 2 left of BVR. Pretty sharp!

Thin sit start to gain the stand. Has lost a key hold so might be harder.

Green slab past 4 RB's to DRB anchor.

DRB and replaceable rap rings added 04/23, rebolted 11/23. Bolts and glue provided by Safer Cliffs Victoria.

Take the arête following two RBs to DRB loweroff below the capstone. Start direct or traverse in using the horizontal break.

If topping out, you can use the DRB anchor on Penetration. The tree once used as an anchor is long gone.

Rebolted 01/24 Bolts and glue provided by Safer Cliffs Victoria.

Start down left of the spikes and climb the faint arete between the blonde face and the black scoop. Excellent!

Looks better than it climbs! Sharp L leaning crack halfway along ridge between Dino Rocks and Mushroom Rocks. It’s short but takes great cams if you’re so inclined. Bouldered since the dark ages no doubt.

Climb LOTD then a hard and insecure crux to stand on to its finishing holds. From here buckle up for another body length and a half of 22 slab in the no fall zone.

The left hand line with hangers. Intricate climbing on featured granite. Be careful with the crazy flake, it's solid enough, just be gentle! Rebolted '23, shared anchor.

Go Dog Go is the next climb directly right of Bolts on Granite Slab II and directly left of Jaws.

Use medium wires or small cams above the bolts.

The next line left with obvious black edges. Hard start then easily to top. Probably the most secure descent on good holds with a small jump at the bottom.

Charlie never climbed the steep side. Guess he wanted to leave some for everyone else! This climbs the line leading to the flake dripping down across from #2. Thin.

Right side of the subtle arete. May shed a few holds.

Carefully up the right side of the huge flake. Slab above passing 2 RB to DRB anchor.

Rebolted 12/23. Bolts and glue provided by Safer Cliffs Victoria.

Cleaner line up the slab past 5 RB's. Rebolted 04/23 by Safer Cliffs Victoria.

Sharp sit start 1.5m left of BVL. Layaway edges up and left via small flat tops and continue left to good layaway just inside arête

Excellent stand start RH arete... gets easier as it gets higher but exciting enough.

Start off flake at left/west arete past 2 bolts. Cute.

Good edges leads to delicate slabbing. 4 RB to loweroff shared with Deceit.

Rebolted 04/23 Bolts and glue provided by Safer Cliffs Victoria.

Freshly brushed 01/24. Good moves on surprisingly big holds past a RB on the face to a DRB anchor (original single FH and rusty maillon anchor is still in situ if feeling nostalgic).

Rebolted 01/24. Bolts and glue provided by Safer Cliffs Victoria.

Closed Project... essentially a direct start and finish to CM.

Outrageous central line on excellent spaced edges. Very difficult move at 3m.

Fine climbing. Stand start on grey scoop and up via good holds in black scoop. A bit high.

If you follow the main boulders anti clockwise you will find this nice looking diagonal hand crack. Taking a stab at the grade... which appears to have been lost in the mists of time for now.

Unknown route 1m left of Frogs Hollow. Four non-rusted carrots to the same anchor. Feels about grade 10-11.

Climbs middle of slab left of PTR. Start as per PTR. Clip 3rd bolt then travers to first bolt on SnL. Direct up thin face past 2 glue in carrots.

Punchy sit start on obvious jug rail leads to easy moves up to slab.

Direct Start

Nice sequence via sidepull

2m L of Russell's Megaroute and better than it too.

Carefully up the L side of the huge flake and slab with 2 RB to DRB anchor.

Bolted 12/23. Bolts and glue provided by Safer Cliffs Victoria.

The obvious low angle North east arete with 2 carrots and a lower off.

Low start on very poor side pulls to gain jug and up.

Retro bolted line that climbs thin and well past 2 bolts.

Delicate start to the 1st RB, then up on easier ground past 3 more RB to DRB loweroff. Rebolted and replaceable rap rings added to the DRB 04/23. Bolts and glue provided by Safer Cliffs Victoria.

Round back and left from Static on the low angle slab. No anchor at top so have a plan with getting off.

Excellent gold and very overhung corner at top left of Olice Grove (corner facing uphill). Sit start with LH crimp and RH gastons. Shouldery start gains low lip and easy finish. Really good.

Stand start at high single joint edge on right side of face. Campus to jug edge and again to sloped lip. Just your typical black hill horror mantle on nothing to gain slab and freedom!

These could be V6. Hard to know. Stand start below hanging black face left of scoops at underclings. A couple of hardish moves to gain better holds (no hopping), then you have to lock down some composure. Quite sustained.

Start below ML. Traverse up dyke past 2 FH (crux)to gain arête. Finish past 2RB to DRB anchor.

Easy warm up on jug edges to slab. Could be used as a descent but the slab is a bit insecure and grungy... probably best to reverse the jugs on the Blackness.