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Access: Bushfire Recovery

A large bushfire burned through North Black Range bouldering areas from late November 2019 to late January 2020. As of 10 May 2021, the park has re-opened after fire-related closures.

Some problems/areas may have been damaged by fire, exercise caution. Any reports on the extent of damage (or lack thereof) would be appreciated, especially if there are unsafe problems/significant damage.

NPWS sign posted at intersection of Forbes Creek Rd and NBR Fire Trail in late June 2021:

See warning details and discuss

Created about a year ago

Seasonality

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Description

Just before the intersection / car parking spot turn right and head 50 metres up the hill. This area has some large walls and one very steep wall. Some grades are fairly stiff, perhaps due to the strength of the climbers first ascending the problems - watch out for Fieg problems! but in reality, like any area the difficulty of the climbs really varies depending on your finger strength, body type etc. Test pieces are named that way for a reason - they're a good way to know if you can really climb the grade or just squeak it in on unknown climbs.

You may need to bring some cleaning gear with you. Due to its location this area doesn't see daily activity and given it is in a forest, moss abounds at times and always returns. Better off scrubbing off some moss than falling on your arse and breaking your coccyx. Or something.

Access issues inherited from Black Range bouldering

These boulders lie in a national park. While there are no current access restrictions, please respect the nature of the park and aim to minimise your impact. Refer to the NPWS alerts page for the park for up-to-date access information.

Approach

Just before the sign to Tallaganda you can turn right and drive right up to the boulders. Be wary driving up that road though, there's a few large rocks in the way that can damage a low-slung car and the walk is short enough that even a boulderer should be able to endure it.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Canberra Climbers' Association (CC BY-SA)

Routes

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Grade Route

Start matched on the ledge on the left side of the wall, and head straight up. Harder if you do the very low undercling move to start.

FA: Duncan Brown

Start as for the Warm Up and traverse the edges and slopers on the very top lip of the boulder all the way to the lip sloper on Power Up Stand Start and top out here. Feels a grade or two harder than Percival, but might not be too bad with a bigger arm span.

FA: Duncan Brown, 16 May 2021

Start as for The Warm Up, head onto the high flake and finish up via crimps as per Bogan (the independent finish between The Warm Up and Power Up finishes).

FA: Duncan Brown, 2007

An absolute classic. Start as for The Warm Up, then traverse the high flake into the slopey middle topout. Originally graded V8 but vandals and time have reduced the grade.

FA: Leeson Rose

Start as for The Warm Up, then traverse the high flake to top out on the far right side of the wall.

FA: Leeson Rose

Start as for The Warm Up, then traverse right along the low line using slopers and underclings. Head up when you reach Power Up, to finish as for one of the Percival lines. [An earlier version of this problem was destroyed by some scum sucking bike riders with crowbars. !!&^&%^]

FA: George Fieg

Sit start as for percival low traversing along slopers/staying as low as possible, then reverse Muy Forte Left and finish up Muy Forte.

FA: Daniel Fisher, 1 Aug 2014

Start as for The Warm Up, head right onto the slopers of Percival Low, then head straight up from the slopers to top out via crimps just over the lip.

FA: Andrew Bull

Start at the Power Up crimps, make a big move to the Bogan sloper and finish directly up.

CMCC

FA: MIchael Yuen, 3 Aug 2019

Sit start with crimps in the middle of the wall, then straight up via the slopey middle top out (the same top out as Percival the Feisty Mouse).

FA: George Fieg

Sit start as for Power Up, then make hard moves right into to the start holds of Muy Forte and finish up that climb.

CMCC

FA: Nick White, Jun 2019

The stand start to Power Up, starting in the middle of the wall and up via the slopey middle top out.

Start at the Muy Forte underclings, continue as for Muy Forte Left but then keep heading left to the crimp finish between the Warm Up and Percival the Feisty Mouse (as for Bogan).

FA: Pete, 2018

Stand start as for Muy Forte, then stay low and move left to the big jug. Up to finish as for Percival The Feisty Mouse.

CMCC

Start as for Muy Forte, then stay low to move straight left to the big jug and up to finish as for Percival The Feisty Mouse (eliminates the right hand slot on the standard Muy Forte).

FA: Chris Warner

Stand start from underclings, as for Muy Forte, then climb straight up using right hand gaston and top out (eliminating the right hand slot used on the standard Muy Forte problem).

FA: Bevan Ashby, 3 Jun 2015

Start on the underclings and go straight up to top out as for The Percival Extension. Settling at 7ish down from V9 with a breakage.

FA: George Fieg

The obvious sit start to Muy Forte. Start with left hand on flake and right hand around arete. Slap and heel hook up the right side of the boulder finishing directly as for Muy Forte.

Jam the corner to start then up.

FA: Dave 'The Dude' Filan

Start underclinging the roof with your feet on the start of Muy Forte. Go under the roof and mantle up the other side.

FA: Andrew Bull

After the cut loose of Roof Raider, head out left to the arete then up.

FA: Andrew Bull

Sit Start matched on juggy side pull. Move right following the thin crack. Reach out to the overhung arete and top out at the end of the boulder.

Detached block by the ground is out.

FA:

Sit start.

FA: Sarah

FA: Sarah

Some of the most desperate slopers you will ever use. Sit start. Hardest part is getting your feet underneath you for the move onto the body of the boulder.

FA: George Fieg

Sit start and finish on an obvious jug at the arete.

FA: Glen Jones

Climb Jugalicious, continue around corner and finish matched on a large edge in the middle of the wall.

FA: Bevan Ashby, 2 Jun 2015

Sit start at Jugalicious, turn the arete and traverse left across the full face through crimps. Exit by stepping off onto the large block on the left.

CMCC

FA: Michael Yuen, 28 Jul 2019

Sit start - as for Jugalicious but straight up and finish on the face. Drop off.

FA: Duncan Brown

aka The Riddle. Long standing highball project has finally seen a rope-less accent. Stand start at the sidecling jugs for Jugalicious then through some insecure scoops.

FA: nick churchill

Using the same toprope as for ‘The Riddle’, climb the overhung high face further around left.

FA: Chas Ruffles

The hard face left of ‘Night Sky’, starting near left arete, finishing at a jug up right.

FA: Chas Ruffles

Sit start on the square block and climb up the crack. (Don't use the Bundy Rum wall)

FA: Graham Rose

Start around the corner and above blocks left of ‘Bundy Rum’, highball to the top.

FA: Aiden Smith

The slab on the wall behind Roof Raider from stand, between the undercut scoop on the left and Starter on the right.

FA: Butti

Stand start up the wall/blunt arête directly behind Roof Raider, above the lumpy landing.

FA: Paul Cuthbert

Up slopers.

FA: Tara Sutherland

Traverse, go up the ridge past #14.

FA: Paul Cuthbert

Sit start crack, top out.

FA: Tara Sutherland

FA: Chris Warner

FA: Chris Warner

FA: Chris Warner

FA: Chris Warner

Sit start at the scoop, then up via good rails.

FA: Pete, 2017

Stand start and up the short wall, round left from Scoopy Do.

FA: Pete, 2017

Sit start off a jug then through crimps to topout.

FA: Ky Wittich

Sit start then into underclings.

FA: Josh Higgins

Sit start.

FA: George Fieg

Sit start. A quite contrived sit but rather stiff mantel in the vein of most Fieg offerings!

FA: Sarah

Right of the arete.

FA: Duncan Brown

Sit start and onto the arete.

The sit is called The Children Must Dance. Duncan did the stand. Butti did the sit.

FA: Duncan Brown & Robert "Butti" Buttinger

Sit start on slopers.

FA: Chris L

Sit start. Traverse right and upwards then mantle.

FA: Duncan Brown

Squat start? No sit starts really possible on this boulder.

FA: George Fieg

Squat start (?ish) then up the poor incuts topping out right of the end to 'Around The World'.

Squat start and trend up the arete to reasonable holds, then a super-high step and you're away.

Very tough traverse on slopers. Sit start.

FA: George Fieg

Mantle. Sit start.

FA: Andrew Richards

Sit start.

FA: Justin Ryan

Off the good rail to a high hold.

FA: Chris L

FA: Andrew Richards

Sit start.

FA: Ky Wittich

FA: Graham Rose

Sit start.

FA: Stephanie Mundy

Sit start and straight up through the moss

Sit start.

FA: Duncan Brown

Sit start.

FA: Andrew Richards

Sit start.

FA: Ky Wittich

Up the face using arete + crimps. Burly. Sit start.

FA: Duncan Brown

Squat start on left hand arete.

FA: Josh Higgins

Site start on left side, traverse (left to right) across the start holds of centrality and up the guts, and then move up and to the right to finish on the right side.

Sit start.

Sit start with hands in thin horizontal crack then up.

FA: Justin ryan & Justin Ryan

Sit start. Consensus downgrade to V2.

FA: Andrew Richards

Thin slab.

FA: Ky Wittich

Sit start then as for high step, slabbing to top.

FA: Chris Warner

Sit start.

FA: Duncan Brown

Sit start. Guide said V0, grade updated based on feedback.

FA: Jarvis Brown

FA: Aiden Smith

Sit start underclinging the side and mantle up the block using only a heel hook. Deduct points for using other rocks, extra points for getting stabbed by the tree. Might be worth bringing a saw for the second ascent. If you do it right it should be harder than the grade indicated, but let's face it people cheat.

FA: David Nott, 27 Oct 2013

FA: Ian Churchill

FA: Chas Ruffles

FA: Chas Ruffles

#41 in the October 2013 guide produced by Duncan Brown.

Start just left of Show and Tell using the arete. Avoid the good starting footholds to the right. Named after the sharp flake you throw for.

FA: Geoff Campbell & Chris Lean, Dec 2014

FA: Chris Lean, Aug 2014

Standing start and traverse right on sidepulls.

FA: Giovanni Guccione, 17 Dec 2014

Sit start and traverse under Top Quark using the flake for hands.

FA: Geoff Campbell, 17 Dec 2014

Direct start to Top Quark. Sit Start on jugs.

FA: Chris Lean, Dec 2014

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