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Access: Bushfire Recovery

A large bushfire burned through North Black Range bouldering areas from late November 2019 to late January 2020. As of 10 May 2021, the park has re-opened after fire-related closures.

Some problems/areas may have been damaged by fire, exercise caution. Any reports on the extent of damage (or lack thereof) would be appreciated, especially if there are unsafe problems/significant damage.

NPWS sign posted at intersection of Forbes Creek Rd and NBR Fire Trail in late June 2021:

See warning details and discuss

Created 4 months ago - Edited 12 weeks ago

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Description

From the intersection, turn left and head up the road. This is the first area on the left. There is a small boulder you pass with four problems on it. You can either turn off to the left and park or follow the road as it curves around the boulders to the right and park.

Access issues inherited from Black Range bouldering

These boulders lie in a national park. While there are no current access restrictions, please respect the nature of the park and aim to minimise your impact. Refer to the NPWS alerts page for the park for up-to-date access information.

Routes

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Grade Route

Sit start and straight up the arete.

Start on the left, top out on the right. Better if you eliminate the step down the bottom. (It is by the road on the walk from the Hill to the Main area).

FA: Chris L

Sit start and up the outside of the boulder using holds facing the wrong way (!)

FA: Sarah Fieg

Sit start.

FA: George Fieg

Sit start.

FA: George Fieg

Sit start.

FA: Sarah Fieg

Sit start.

Sit start on jug, straight up.

Stand start up the arete/face left of the Thin Green Line

FA: Stephen, 4 May 2018

Stand start then climb up and top out.

FA: Sarah Fieg

Sit start then climb up and top out.

FA: Bevan Ashby, 16 Dec 2018

Sit start from left side of short arete then climb up and top out.

FA: Bevan Ashby, 29 Nov 2018

Stand start and up the narrow slabby wall.

FA: Pete, 2016

Up and across the easy diagonal line, right of Marbled, to the notch in the profile (on the opposite side to Bolt Ons).

Stand start at the jug just right of Thin Green Line, then up and slightly right into the scoop. An optional sit start is possible, traversing in past the bush a few metres to the right.

FA: Pete, 2016

Up jugs to the notch in the profile, a few metres right of Sideshow. An easy descent off this boulder.

Up the easy arete, right of Bolt Ons.

FA: Pete

Stand start and up, staying right of the arete and rib.

FA: Pete, 2016

Sit start at the good spike and straight up the short wall, on the boulder behind Bolt Ons.

FA: Pete, 2016

Sit start and pop left to the scoop, then up.

FA: Pete, 2016

Sit start.

FA: Duncan Brown

Sit start matched on the block and trend right by following the arete ridge. Step out right towards Alien Craft and top out.

Standing start.

FA: George Fieg

Sit start and fridge hug the body of the boulder.

FA: Leeson Rose

On the back of the Stones Throw boulder. Stand start matched on scoop crimps at the left and go up trending right to top out.

FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 11 Nov 2016

FA: Duncan Brown

Low traverse from a sit start then up through crimps or via the arete. Goey.

FA: Duncan Brown

FA: Andrew Richards

Pretty standard stand start then up the arete. Getting off the boulder is the fun bit.

FA: Ky Wittich

A few variants of this are possible through the various crack-lines at the front and back of the boulder holding 'Zac's Arete', including down-climbing #17.

FA: Duncan Brown

Also called 'the nothing'. V8 in the guide which depends on beta that goes out right before heading up the arete. If you stick purely to the arete you could probably add a grade.

FA: Zac Vertrees

The direct version of 'Zac's Arete' heading up some minging crimps and poor feet out to the arete.

FA: Chris Webb Parsons

Variant of #17. 6+? On sidepulls and using the arete (toe hook/heel hook) but not the opposing boulder. 6 in the new guide but possibly harder.

Up the crackline using the arete/crack to ascend.

FA: Ky Wittich

Stand start at the arete and up, using the arete and the face to the right (the other block is out, otherwise you're doing Jaws of Death).

FA: Pete

Sit start then climb up and top out.

Traverse slopers from a sit start to finish at the mantle for 'Mini Mantle'.

Mantle problem. Straight up to a rail then a goey mantle depending on your height.

FA: Duncan Brown

Sit start from crack then climb up trending rightwards and top out.

FA: Duncan Brown

Sit start from sloping rail then climb up and top out.

FA: Bevan Ashby, 25 Nov 2018

Sit start. FA done in, you guessed it, socks.

FA: Chris Webb Parsons

Sit start from right side of flake then climb up trending rightwards and top out.

FA: Bevan Ashby, 25 Nov 2018

Mantle problem. Crimps and up, fairly standard.

FA: Duncan Brown

Sit start from lefthand sidepull then climb up and top out. No stacking pads.

Bevan Ashby

FA: Bevan Ashby, 23 Nov 2018

Start right of the arete and work your way up

FA: BigManFranklin, 16 May

FA: Duncan Brown

Desperate. Has only been climbed twice. Need to be tall, or wicked strong.

FA: Ky Wittich

Run and jump to slopers!

FA: George Fieg

FA: George Fieg

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