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Summary

a series of crack systems in nearly every pagoda and cliff line, finding the history of this place is vague but there is old lookouts, fences, picnic benches and steps carved into the sandstone here.

Description

almost every gully here has a bunch of cracks with the cliff in between each gully also containing crack or seams, the sandstone here is pretty good for blue mountains standards. most climbs have being done in two pitches just due to rope drag but the ciff line here is prodomently 30m high. this is a eastern facing gully that looks back onto mt york which is pretty rare to find a gully that gets sun all day and protected from the prodominant westerly winds, you can hide in your desired area to suit the weather conditions. this is a 100% trad area, so rack up and get your adventure on.

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Approach

from mt victoria you head towards browns gap road, once you get to the hassans walls trail you turn off and follow this until you see a small car pull off spot about two thirds of the way to hassans walls, park off the trail were there is two concrete blocks that used to be a park bench at one point in time. follow this trail down to the main gully and then depending on were you want to climb you can walk down any of the side gullies of each pagoda.

Ethic

no bolts or hardware, everything has being done ground up onsight here for the sense of adventure, bring your helmets and brush as you may well still be cleaning as you climb

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Routes

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Grade Route

from the main lookout this is the obvious crack running up a very unique looking cliff with amazing rock quality, its a little chossy down low, gear is good and big! the top half is #6 with a #5 down low. this is a great test piece for the aspiring groveling trad climber!

FFA: nathaniel glavurdic & Luke Hef, 23 Oct

this crack runs up the wall on the lookout access gully and is the first one you get to, perfect double splitter up to roof and either traverse left or right off, great warm up for the area and a stunning pitch.

FFA: nathaniel glavurdic & Luke Hef, Oct 2020

another amazing crack running up from the same access gully as "movements of pleasure" walk another 10m down and its on your right hand side. great rock with an very cold air blowing out from the crack at the base

FFA: Luke Hef & nathaniel glavurdic, 23 Oct

this is the insainly big offwidth to chimney with an obvious nest midway up, climbing around the nest is a grade harder but its worth it, its such a nest! when you go down the main wall access gully you follow the cliff line to the right until it smacks you in the face. a #5 and #6 down low before the chimney begins and then to perfect belay ledge to watch the second come up.

FFA: nathaniel glavurdic & Luke Hef, Oct 2020

off the deck is the crux of this thing, get through it and you get to stem your way to glory up into the monster roof, great rock, good gear and a nice long pitch. this was done in two pitches on the FA however would be nice to do in one stella pitch to the top.

this line is the middle crack of the three weakness's that run up the wall. start off the belay block and up through boulder start then hand crack to belay, you could link this in one pitch but rope drag might be a issue. second pitch is perfect hands for a few moves then topout. amazing line and surprisingly everything is there with good gear.

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