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South Side

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 13
19

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Description

Cliffs south of access gully, climbs described left to right.

Access issues inherited from Brosville

None

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, making remote and less popular crags slightly more difficult and fun to navigate to. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage).

However, do so only on Council land and definitely not in the National Park. Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Up juggy steep face to anchors

FFA: Rod Wills, 30 Oct 2016

2m rt of BOTSS, up orange face over bulge to anchors

FFA: Kevin Van Tilburg, 30 Oct 2016

Up right side of cave to anchors

FFA: kevin van tilburg, 29 Nov 2016

Up vertical flake over bulge to anchors

FFA: Rod Wills, 6 Nov 2016

Same start as D, tending right over small roof to anchors. Lots off drag on lower of so either rap off or simply top out.

FFA: rod, 8 Jul 2018

Next climbs are past large erosion cave

Steepish start over bulge to slab and anchors on the ledge or top out to avoid rope drag on lower off.

FFA: rod, 8 Jul 2018

Up left side of buttress to shared anchors

FFA: Kevin Van Tilburg, 18 Jun 2017

Up faint arete right side of buttress to shared anchors

FFA: Kevin Van Tilburg, 30 Jun 2017

Left side of slab to shared anchors

FFA: David Filan, 20 Nov 2016

Right side of slab to shared anchors

FFA: Rod Wills, 20 Nov 2016

Straight up slab tending right to shared anchors

FFA: Rod Wills, 18 Jun 2017

Straight up slab tending left to shared anchors

FFA: Rod wills, 18 Jun 2017

Next climbs past access gully on next butress

2m rt of access gully. Straight up face passing left leaning flake to top.

FFA: Ian reynolds, 21 May 2017

Up arete and mantle to shared anchors. Note anchors are set back a bit so if precious about rope just top out and walk off or abseil off.

FFA: Kevin Van Tilburg, 28 Jan 2017

2m rt of arete straight up past small beak and mantle to shared anchors with NFC

FFA: Kevin Van Tilburg, 29 Jan 2017

Up short slab and past right side of small break to shared anchors

FFA: Rod Wills, 29 Jan 2017

2m rt..up juggy slab and face to share anchors

FFA: Rod Wills, 29 Jan 2017

Up face right side of small cave mid height to shared anchors

FFA: Kevin Van Tilburg, 19 Feb 2017

Up right side of wall to shared anchors

FFA: Rod wills, 19 Feb 2017

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