A big, adventurous day out. Hard to rate, quality-wise, as this is very much a route of two parts. But a multipitch is the sum of all its parts. The lower half I would rate as "average", the upper half I'd rate as "good". P1 - Average (Onsight) - A few okay moves, but poor rock and a scary sandy choss finale; P2 - Good (Second, Unclean {clean from 1st bolt up, a heel slip at the first bolt meant I couldn't redo the first gr19 move off the ledge for the tick!}) - Roofy bouldering (not as hard as it looks), then balancy thin arête/face climbing on crumbly holds; P3 - Good/Very Good (Dog) - Great moves and rock on the arête (though neither of us could free a move past the 2nd bolt, a big muddy patch looks like a key flake is gone), but the bail-out to the dirty, mossy grey rock halfway up isn't so pleasant. Might be okay with a wire-brushing. The finale is exhilarating. P4 - Average (second) - Unpleasant, snappy roof boulder (I broke off a few big holds straight away, and it became V1-million as a result) to a dirty, fragile grey slab. P5 - Crap (Onsight) - Wall-of-tree vertical gardening, complete with jumaaring up a fixed rope, and more bush-bashing. Ugh. P6 - Very Good (Onsight) - Rock is a mixed bag, but its a long, technical pumper with oodles of exposure, and a complex finale that is probably easy to fall off. P7 - Very Good (Onsight) - Linked into next pitch for a 60m monster. Saved entirely by the quality of the climbing, as the rock is deteriorating again. Very unlikely sustained blunt-arête climbing, with a particularly gripping style. My forte. P8 - Good (Clean Repeat) - Linked from previous pitch. Rock fast deteriorating, but I enjoy the style of complex face-climbing. I ended up off-route and did a heinous boulder-problem to get back on route, complete with power screams. P9 - Average (Dog) - Never worked out the first boulder move off the ledge, but battled my way up to link the rest to the end of the pitch. Sandy, snappy, and unpleasant climbing. Almost just worth walking up the adjacent gully, rather than climbing this.
The approach isn't too hard, but it's a long wall-of-tree bush-bash from the base of Hotel C, which is surprisingly time-consuming. We didn't see the sun all day at this time of year, which made for rather cold climbing. None of the bolts were particularly hard to get to/clip on lead, nor was it particularly run-out. Grades were pretty much bang-on, no sandbaggery. Due to no traffic in at least 8 years, as well as proximity below the waterfall, much of this route is quite dirty and mossy.
Jumped on this about 2 days after it went up on chockstone. Onsighted all pitches except for p3 - mega reach! As with most of my adventures with Ollie, we were underprepared for the cold and slack bladder above us. Got super cold and cramped up so decided against the top 24 pitch. Sick day out though!
The approach isn't too hard, but it's a long wall-of-tree bush-bash from the base of Hotel C, which is surprisingly time-consuming. We didn't see the sun all day at this time of year, which made for rather cold climbing. None of the bolts were particularly hard to get to/clip on lead, nor was it particularly run-out. Grades were pretty much bang-on, no sandbaggery. Due to no traffic in at least 8 years, as well as proximity below the waterfall, much of this route is quite dirty and mossy.