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Uppercut Crag

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 18
6

Seasonality

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Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Approach

Turn off as for The Colliery but stay on the road, not turning left. The road becomes bitumen as it winds down a hill 200m between special caves then park where the Bitumen ends. There is just enough room for 3 point turn. The crag is on your left looking down hill and you are parked level with its base. Walk 5min to first route.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, making remote and less popular crags slightly more difficult and fun to navigate to. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage).

However, do so only on Council land and definitely not in the National Park. Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

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Routes

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At present the first route you arrive at. Nice bulgy pocketed wall, more lines to go! Climb precarious blocks to belay ledge. Up easy corner to oozing clip, through pockets to distinct crux then jug on up.

FFA: E. Wells, 13 Mar 2015

Up wall veering right into orange rock and up.

FFA: E . Wells, 8 Mar 2015

Start left of arette in steep terrain to arette then up.

FFA: Evan Wells, 8 Mar 2015

4m Right of Dingos.Slabby face with a low crux. Great little journey looking for the good holds.

FFA: E. Wells, 8 Mar 2015

This and the next route are a few minutes walk further. Bring a big brush and a blower. The left route on a steep wall that gets shade all day after 11. Climb to a desperately long bouldery dyno to break then steep with a few more moves to loweroff. Given to Jimmy for his 28th (and because he climbed it better)

Set: E .Wells

FFA: James Blaxendale, 13 Mar 2015

Starts 3m R of TBK. First Route bolted and climbed at crag. Pumpy to anchor.

FFA: E . Wells, 8 Mar 2015

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