A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
Warning
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.
Nobody has checked this particlular guide so you cannot rely on it's accuracy like you would a store bought guide.
You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.
You must keep this warning with the guide. For more information refer to our:
Usage policy
Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Kyle Dunsire Peatey Sean Hobson Rod Smith Brendon Flanagan Ben Jenga Luen Warneke David O'Donnell Tony Williams Lee Cujes
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Table of contents
- 1. Mr Big Area 11 in Cliff
- 2. Index by grade
1. Mr Big Area 11 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -33.656673, 150.275431
description
Has sun from about 11.30am in winter and is protected from the wind.
access issues
The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.
Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.
For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/
approach
Drive down Megalong Rd for 2.8km to parking on the left. Park smart as there is only enough room for a couple of cars. The QR code for the carpark in the guidebook is wrong — the right car park is here:
-33.656523, 150.273903
Cross the creek, via log bridge, and follow cairns up the hill. Walk is approximately 10 mins.
ethic
Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.
Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.
If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.
At many Blue Mountains crags, the somewhat close spacing of routes and prolific horizontal featuring means that it is easy to envisage literally hundreds of trivial linkups. By all means climb these to your hearts content but, unless it is an exceptional case due to some significant objective merit, please generally refrain from writing up linkups. A proliferation of descriptions of trivial linkups would only clutter up the guide and add confusion and will generally not add value to your fellow climbers. (If you still can't resist, consider adding a brief note to the parent route description, rather than cluttering up the guide with a whole new route entry).
If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/
It would be appreciated if brushing of holds and minimisation/removal of tick marks becomes part of your climbing routine. Consider bringing a water squirt bottle and mop-up rag to better remove chalk. Only use soft (hair/nylon) bristled brushes, never steel brushes.
The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.
Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.
For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Goldfinger
The dirty but decent looking crack. It will get better as it cleans up. Take small cams and a vision of what could be. Face crack right of vegetated corner FA: R.Ford FA: R.Ford, 2004 | 18 | 12m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
2 |
★ Casino Royale
FA: J.Andersen, 2004 | 20 | 15m | |||||
3 |
★★ Honey Rider
Left arete of big wall. All ringbolts.
Can just rap to first chain belay ledge from top anchor with single 60m rope, and then on to ground. FA: J.Andersen & K.McKenzie, 2003 | 18 | 60m, 3 | |||||
4 |
★ George Lazumbe
FA: J.Anderson | 10 | 12m | |||||
5 |
★★ Mr Big
FA: C.Coghill/J.Anderson | 19 | 75m, 3 | |||||
6 |
★★ Mr Big pitches 1 & 2
FA: Julian Andersen & Chris Coghill | 16 | 55m, 2 | |||||
7 |
★ From Russia with Love
Warning Rock: Loose Boulder! Warning Rock: Crumbly Rock Climb corner 2m right of Mr. Big, traverse to Mr. Big P1 belay. Continue up right from belay to Mr. Big P2 belay FA: C Coghill & J Anderson | 17 | 47m, 2 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
8 |
Unknown / Unknown Sport Climb
Take gear! Line of RBs on the arete left of Cold Finger to DRBB. | 13 | 50m | |||||
9 |
★ Cold Finger
Slab, right of Mr Big. Add a grade or so if you stay on line. FA: S Puchala, 2000 | 16 | 12m | |||||
10 |
★ Casual Assassin
Has an extra ring as a variant. (Long story). And shares lower offs with Cold Finger. FA: S Puchala, 2000 | 17 | 12m | |||||
11 |
★ Flying Circus
Arete on rings right of CA. Has lower offs. FA: S Puchala, 2000 | 15 | 14m |
2. Index by grade
Grade | Stars | Name | Style | Pop | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
10 | ★ | George Lazumbe | 12m | ||
13 | Unknown | 50m | |||
15 | ★ | Flying Circus | 14m | ||
16 | ★ | Cold Finger | 12m | ||
★★ | Mr Big pitches 1 & 2 | 55m, 2 | |||
17 | ★ | Casual Assassin | 12m | ||
★ | From Russia with Love | 47m, 2 | |||
18 | ★ | Goldfinger | 12m | ||
★★ | Honey Rider | 60m, 3 | |||
19 | ★★ | Mr Big | 75m, 3 | ||
20 | ★ | Casino Royale | 15m |