Help

Doomsday Wall

Access: Do not walk through school grounds!

Access has changed to these areas (2020) as the Christian School has stopped access to the general public across their land. Please refer to approach details here - and ignore what is in the print guidebooks past and present.

See warning details and discuss

Created 3 years ago
6
AU

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Description

Rap in, climb out area situated on the cliffs below and slightly north of the Gateway caves. This 40m high wall starts out slabby and turns slightly overhung at the top. Pitches are very long but well bolted. Be careful of knocking rocks off the belay ledge onto the tourist track below.

Access issues inherited from Gateway, Doomsday & Fort Rock

Access to these crags has changed (2020) - there is no longer public access across the Christian School land (no entry signage and cameras have been installed). Do not enter their land day, night or on weekends without direct permission from school.

©

Approach

Walk in as for Gateway until you get to the cliffline where Gateway is located (bottom of short slabby scramble down). Instead of heading left (facing out) to get to Gateway, walk right and down 20m shady gully to hidden ledge system. Follow this around right (amazing position) to find two ringbolt rap anchors in magic small cave. The first anchors reached are for the first three routes (37m) and the second set is for the Minority of Fun. With a 70m rope its easy to fix one end of the rope - rap down - climb back up on the other end and drop the rope back down to partner so they can second out. Routes do not start from the ground to avoid vegetation damage and mud.

Descent notes

Climb out or rap down to tourist track to exit.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

At many Blue Mountains crags, the somewhat close spacing of routes and prolific horizontal featuring means that it is easy to envisage literally hundreds of trivial linkups. By all means climb these to your hearts content but, unless it is an exceptional case due to some significant objective merit, please generally refrain from writing up linkups. A proliferation of descriptions of trivial linkups would only clutter up the guide and add confusion and will generally not add value to your fellow climbers. (If you still can't resist, consider adding a brief note to the parent route description, rather than cluttering up the guide with a whole new route entry).

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds and minimisation/removal of tick marks becomes part of your climbing routine. Consider bringing a water squirt bottle and mop-up rag to better remove chalk. Only use soft (hair/nylon) bristled brushes, never steel brushes.

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route

The first 3 routes involve rapping 37m down (doubled 70m rope will reach on stretch) off first set of rap anchors down to semi-hanging belays on small ledge about 20m above the tourist track. You can traverse this lower-ledge to get between the starts of the three routes (stay roped up!).

The warm up. Rap in down Lockdown's anchors then walk right (still on rap) along small ledge for 15m to anchors. Waterpolished wall and flakes to start, through steepness on pockets (and ferns) and finish up grey wall above. This route does not top-out - lower off and clean and exit via the other full length routes.

FA: 22 Mar 2020

More sustained than PZ with many crux moves stacked one on top of each other. Climb grey slab to undercut flakes. Negotiate these with a tricky mantle to stance under rooflet. Swing over this and up face and orange bulging wall above. Finish up left side of pillar on flake.

FA: 19 Mar 2020

Sustained technical wall climbing separated by two small ledges. Starts out with a section of runout grey slab then steepens to waterwashed face and final slightly overhung orange wall. Don’t blow it by falling off the very last move! For the top belay use rap anchors out right but use single bolt on ledge to protect 2nd when they are past the last lead bolt.

FA: 11 Mar 2020

To approach the next two routes rap 25m down from double U-bolts at far end of top ledge (take care getting to these!) to small ledge, walk 6m left along this ledge (stay on rap rope) to double bolt anchors below Minority of Fun. The same belay anchors can be used to belay Submission.

Start at the perma-cairn undercut start - but belay using anchors below Minority of Fun. It's probably worth pre-clipping the 2nd bolt if you can. Crank the start - cruise up the slabby wall and mantle onto small ledge at halfway. The crux begins here. When you hit the break traverse right for a bolt to the rap anchors on the main ledge.

FA: 23 Jan 2021

More of a pumper than the other routes around here - but the first move is brutal as a warmup! Climbs an orange streak for 25m then finishes with an arm destroying 8m horizontal traverse right to top ledge. Stickclip or frenchfree belay bolt to get first draw on so you don't kaput the ankles on the bouldery first move over the bulge. Long draws help rope drag.

FA: 1 Sep 2020

Technical grey wall below Minority of Fun/Submission. Not a bad warmup. 7 bolt plates required (two for the belay and 5 for the pitch).

FA: 23 Jan 2021

Did you know?

Did you know that you can create an account to record, track and share your climbing ascents? Thousands of climbers are already doing this.

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079082

The latest comprehensive, latest and greatest Blue Mountains Climbing Guide is here and it has more routes than you can poke a clip stick at! 3421 to be exact. You are not going to get bored.

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079075

Simon Carter's "Best of the Blue" is the latest selected climbing guide book for the Blue Mountains and covers 1000 routes and 19 different climbing areas. For all the sport climbers out there, the travellers, or just anyone who doesn't want to lug around the big guide that's more than 3 times the size - cut out the riff-raff and get to the good stuff! This will pretty much cover everything you need!

Accommodations nearby more Hide

Share this

Wed 24 May
Check out what is happening in Doomsday Wall.

Get a detailed insight with a timeline showing

  • Ticks by climbers like you
  • Discussions of the community
  • Updates to the index by our users
  • and many more things.

Login to see the timeline!

Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 Português 中文