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Description

A smaller, shorter and less aesthetic wall featuring the original Bald Head route "Thinning On Top" and the wildly exposed "Advanced Air Studio".

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Approach

From Bald Head, walk along the ridge leading in the direction of Hanging Rock, and continue downhill towards a prominent gully with a waterfall flowing into the Grose. Advanced Air Wall is the last major wall and arete before the major gully.

All rap anchors and belays are on carrot bolts (in other words, dont forget to take a few bolt plates with you when you rap in). Routes are equipped as specified.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, making remote and less popular crags slightly more difficult and fun to navigate to. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage).

However, do so only on Council land and definitely not in the National Park. Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Corner crack in beautiful setting. The rock is solid but it's still a bit dirty from rain washing off the dirt from above. Two carrots at the top to rap down to a mini ledge. Start on the left of a boulder to climb out. Use long 3m sling to anchor your belayer. Double rack with triple in small cams 0.2-0.4 handy, 1x #4 or #5, one set of offsets.

FFA: Martin Cankov & Roxy, 29 May

Shared belay and start with Advanced Air then straight up the wall. Very pumpy! All ringbolts - but you will need bolt plates for top and bottom belay.

The wildly exposed arete at the right hand end of the wall. Well-protected, sustained face climbing just left of the arete proper, with average quality rock.

Originally graded 19, but may have gotten harder as holds snapped off and/or due to grade inflation.

FA: Andrew Duckworth, 2001

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