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Mezzaluna Area

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Summary

NOTE: As of January 2021, all areas of Mount York (including camping) are now open!

© (mjw)

Description

Take track opposite the picnic shelter for about 150m back alongside the road to cairn (which is only about 20m from the dirt car park on the left of the road as you approach). Follow track down the hill for 50m to main gully. Left along ledge to the gully’s left branch and down. A bit like a canyon, slippery when wet. Turn right at the bottom, the crag starts almost straight away.

© (mjw)

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Approach

From the monument, walk back up the road, past the green corrugated iron bus shelter (on the left), then another 100m to observe a large tree stump within the campground area (on the right), The trail starts here. Walk down the obvious trail (hiking boots are advisable). Once at the bottom turn sharply right along the cliff. Mezzaluna wall starts here and goes approx 50m until the exposed arete. Bring hangers.

© (mjw)

Where to stay

Camp at Mt York!

© (mjw)

Ethic inherited from Mount York

Many and varied, please try to respect them all!

Retro-bolting has occurred several times over the years and is generally condemned and dealt with swiftly.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

On Fixed Hangers. Start up slightly left of Public Pressure, and trend up and left through varied climbing (and varied rock quality). Single hangerless carrot right before the anchor.

FA: G. Short, 2008

Start as for Murmel Snooze at initials. Straight up through the overlap then drift left to stay out of Mezzaluna. Mostly carrots, take brackets.

FA: M.Colyvan & P.Colyvan, 1982

Has become a bit of a classic. 8 ring bolts. May be worth taking a sling or long quickdraw for the 2nd or 3rd bolt and last bolt, to avoid pulling the rope against corners of the rock.

FA: G.Short & P.Mort, 1998

Excellent wall between 'Mezzaluna' and 'High Society'

FA: john smoothy, glen short & gemma williams, 2010

Up about 10m to 'friend' pocket on right, left past bolts and up to top. Take Care!

Start: A little way up the ramp towards the ledge.

FA: M.Colyvan & G.Hill, 1982

Start: 5m right of High Society at tree.

FA: Julian Anderson

Up past obvious hole in the wall. Originally done on gear, now bolted with carrots (large heads).

FA: M.Colyvan & G.Hill, 1982

Start: 3m left of Frolic. After the fourth bolt run it out to the DRBB set back and out of sight.

Solo of course!

Start: The offwidth. Would be nice with a lower off.

FA: R.Young, 1982

Line of U-bolts 0.5m right of Frolic. Finish on DRBB on Salubrious. If you use the Frolic crack at the start it knocks this down to a really nice grade 13ish.

This is a great climb, definitely worth it. Solid for the grade.

Why?

Start: Right again near boulder.

FA: P Matysek

Start: 1m right of Unethical on the other side of the boulder.

FA: G.Short & P.Mort, 1998

Start: 2m right of Stinkeye at the tree.

Follow carrots veering up right to DRBB.

Start: As for IKB.

FA: Robert Dun/Ivan Valenta/Jane Montgomery, 2002

Start as for Unknown, head left at the second bolt. First ascent details unknown - name is made up.

FA: Unknown

A new climb that just seems to have appeared. Up slab and around overlap to DRBB.

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