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Access: Bowens Creek is located inside of the Blue Mountains National Park. Dogs are strictly prohibited!

Do not, under any circumstance, bring dogs into the Bowens Creek climbing area - this includes the approach track. Smoking and campfires are also prohibited within this area all year. Do not drive down the dirt road, it is a management vehicles only track - park on Bells Line Rd.

See warning details and discuss

Created 4 months ago

Seasonality

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Summary

The best winter crag in the Blueys, with tonnes of routes which bask in the sunshine from about 9am onwards and are well protected from wind and rain.

© (mjw)

Description

Enjoyable, healthy and strenuous day out. A winter wonderland. The most comprehensive sport crag in the region. Steep well-protected, and hard routes, in a wilderness area. Unfortunately the developers mostly used 8mm ringbolts with minimal recessing and the state of the bolts now leaves something to be desired. Check the bolts carefully and make your own decision about whether to do the route. Better yet, pitch in and do some rebolting, it's going to need a group effort.

© (mjw)

Access issues

This crag is in a National Park. DOGS ARE NOT ALLOWED, simple as that. Dog owners are asked NOT to stuff things up for the rest of us; so just don't bring your dog. Do not drive down the dirt road even if the gate is open - this road is only used my management vehicles (Nat Parks and the company that services the high voltage powerlines). Camping also is not allowed.

© (mjw)

Approach

Park on Bells Line Rd - do not drive down the dirt road even if the gate is open. For Main Wall and Bull Crag the best approach is to follow the firetrail all the way to the end and descend underneath the powerlines. For all other areas it's quicker to turn left off the firetrail after about 25 minutes, at a cairn. This path is also used by Canyoners to exit Bowens Creek South Branch so it is now quite a distinct track.

© (mjw)

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, making remote and less popular crags slightly more difficult and fun to navigate to. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage).

However, do so only on Council land and definitely not in the National Park. Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

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