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Far Side wall

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 9
  • Content Quality: High
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Description

On other side of creek, obvious big creek directly across from green wall is Bungleboori Crack

Access issues inherited from Bung Crag

Located in Newnes state forest, no real issues. (This is misleading: there are issues. Newnes SF is part of the Gardens of Stone Stage 2 reserve proposal, which has been actively campaigned for since at least 2000. In fact the earliest ‘claim’ for protecting the area was in Myles Dunphy’s 1934 proposal for a Greater Blue Mountains National Park, most of which has been achieved - except for the Gardens of Stone section. Climbers need to be aware that the area has very high conservation values – home to 42 threatened animal species, 42 threatened plant species, 16 threatened ecological communities, internationally significant ‘pagoda’ formations, rich Aboriginal heritage and much more. Some of the rare plants live on and around cliffs, and caves/overhangs could be Aboriginal sites. Just because Forestry is slack in looking after the place and trail-bikers are trashing parts doesn’t mean it isn’t incredibly valuable.)

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, making remote and less popular crags slightly more difficult and fun to navigate to. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage).

However, do so only on Council land and definitely not in the National Park. Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

Routes

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Grade Route

Start 1m left (directly below the steep upper crack) of monster block that forms chimney. P1 20m 21. Thin crack to flaky block in left facing corner, right to fern and roof, crack to break. P2 45m 21 steeping crack to cave at top. Descend down gully on left.

FA: Mark Wilson & Craig Hale, 1994

Crack line that parallels the upper pitches of Bungleborri Crack. P1 as per Bungleborri Crack. P2 40m 22. Traverse 4 metres left to crack, up past roof then corner to ledge, on to top.

FA: Mark Wilson & Craig Hale, 1994

Start 20m left of Bungleborri Crack at a left facing corner.

  1. 20m 22. Diagonally right to arete (3 BRs), up past 2 breaks, wall to ledge, belay off 2.5 to 4 friends.

  2. 30m 22. Corner to immovable boulder. traverse up and right, jugs, to bolt belay (carrots) above arete.

FA: P1 Mark Wilson, Justin Clark, P2 mark Wilson & Craig Hale, 1994

Not sure where this route is located in relation to all the new routes. The original description is. West facing wall 300m metres south west of Bungleborri Crack. Start at small right facing corner below right leading crack. Corner and crack (rock improves), wall and arete to double bolt belay (carrots). 5 bolts and doubles on big cams.

FA: Mark Wilson & John Kurko, 1994

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