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Access: Cosmic County access after the bushfires.

Overall the cliffs have seen very little affect from the bushfires. However, the approach has been heavily burned out and care needs to be taken when walking in.

The track down from the carpark is marked with small cairns and pink tape. At the base of the hill cross the bog/marsh via the log bridge and follow the path up to the road.

Please only descend to the cliffs via the Memory Lane walkdown gully as the first gully is extremely loose and at high risk of erosion.

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Created 10 months ago - Edited 9 months ago

Access: Bells Line Road closure

Bells Line Road between Mt Wilson turn-off and Mt Tomah Botanical Gardens is now closed due to road damage from March 2021 floods. It is expected this road closure will be in place for several months until it can be repaired. There is no road access to Pierces Pass, Mt Banks and Bowens Creek.

See warning details and discuss

Created 13 days ago
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Description

Descent gully right of 'Penney Ante'. From the top scramble down short wall into the gully, then two choices. 1).Stroll down the right branch - facing out - to 'Penney Ante' and 'The Allied Chemical News' or, 2).Walk down the left branch into 'Stateline Gully'.

© (mjw)

Access issues inherited from Cosmic County

Due to changes in land ownership, some unnecessary angst created by climbers and the recent bush fires, the access situation to the Freezer, Cosmic County etc has now completely changed. The road down through the Buddist’s Monk’s Retreat must NOT be used under any circumstances. It is very important that climbers use the NEW access track (it skirts around to the eastern side of the Monks Retreat). Refer to Simon Carter's wesbite for new access details: http://www.onsight.com.au/bluemtns/

Suggestions for slight access change due to recent fires: Access the cliff via the 'Memory Lane' access gully. Avoid the first walk-down gully that would have you walking in to 'Greenhouse Gully' as it is at high risk for serious erosion.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, making remote and less popular crags slightly more difficult and fun to navigate to. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage).

However, do so only on Council land and definitely not in the National Park. Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Not very good!

Start: Uphill and about 15m right of 'Penney Ante'. Obvious crack on the leftwall of the gully.

FA: W.Moon & B.Cameron, 1979

Boulder start followed by a chimney and finish with a cruisy top out. Climbs better than it looks. Rap down from tree. 10m right of IR.

FA: Brendon Flanagan & Phuong Ho, 3 Apr

Up to FH as per The Allied Chemical News then head left towards the arete and up.

FA: J. Anderson, 2004

Most people skip the average first pitch and walk up the gully to the left to gain the ledge. Start 29m right of 'Penney Ante'. 1) Arete and slab below short compact wall. Up to big bush ledge. 2). Move up R off the ledge to take the left side of the wall, a few metres right of the arete, following a subtle scoop line past 3 bolts (brackets required).

FA: A.Penney & G.Dowden, 1980

Up corner briefly, right to flake, up and right at finish.

Start: 2m right of TACN.

FA: G.Weigand & J.Smoothy, 1981

Soloed!

Start: 2m right again. take care.

FA: S.Camps, 1984

The music, the music...

Start: 10m right of RS.

FA: J.Smoothy & G.Weigand, 1981

"A most pleasant route".

Start: 5m right. Orange rock beneath overhang.

FA: G.Dowden & P.Martland, 1979

Start marked SRCR!

Start: 1m right of A on wall.

FA: K.Seddon, T.Seddon & P.Walton, 1979

"You dont get any fancy overheads...first 10m is horrid but things improve as you get higher."

Start: 3m right of TT. Below wide undercut and mank!

FA: A.Penney & R.Nelson, 1980

hard start to corner to ledge, finish up B&C or 'Green Chimney'.

Start: 5m right again.

FA: W.Williams & L.Williams, 1982

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