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Oliver Stone

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Description

South west facing steepish wall hidden inside a shady canyon.

Access issues inherited from Celebrity Crags

This is a shared use area with local residents and visiting bushwalkers. Don't spoil the place.

ACANSW has been advised by Blue Mtns City Council that car parking congestion along Burton St on weekends and pubic holiday periods is an access concern. Residents are lobbying Council to "solve" this issue and it is in climber's best interests to try and limit the amount of cars parked on Burton Street. Carpool if you can, walk or ride a bike if you are a local, park further away to spread out the congestion - Wombat Street is empty and only 100m away. Whatever you do, please don't park across driveways, party in the carpark, dump rubbish or otherwise make the residents life unpleasant.

Approach

Walk 100m left from Cliff Richard and drop down and around right to find this wall.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

At many Blue Mountains crags, the somewhat close spacing of routes and prolific horizontal featuring means that it is easy to envisage literally hundreds of trivial linkups. By all means climb these to your hearts content but, unless it is an exceptional case due to some significant objective merit, please generally refrain from writing up linkups. A proliferation of descriptions of trivial linkups would only clutter up the guide and add confusion and will generally not add value to your fellow climbers. (If you still can't resist, consider adding a brief note to the parent route description, rather than cluttering up the guide with a whole new route entry).

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds and minimisation/removal of tick marks becomes part of your climbing routine. Consider bringing a water squirt bottle and mop-up rag to better remove chalk. Only use soft (hair/nylon) bristled brushes, never steel brushes.

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

The first three mystery routes (bolted early 2018) are on a low angled mossy slab right side of the steep shady wall. More info required! Rumour has it they were apparently bolted by someone "English" for his kids?

The right most of the super easy black slab routes. Looks pretty appalling.

Set: Unknown

Climb straight up to the high anchor. Very easy, lot of bolts.

Set: Unknown

5m left. Start up grotty groove, then not much better easy angled climbing above.

Set: Unknown

Down left of the easy slabs is this very shady and steep wall inside a lush gully.

Right hand route up through steepness.

FA: lloyd wishart, 10 Feb 2018

Route 1m L starting at the big shark-fin hold. Quite cruxy!

Set: lloyd wishart, 2017

FA: lloyd wishart, 18 Apr 2018

Start a couple of metres L of AATM. Steep wall climbing past the "moonboard crux", then the mega popcorn ceiling. A few sandy holds can be avoided in the last couple of easy metres to the anchor, no biggie. Recent comments suggest it might be harder than 28, opinions welcome.

FA: Lee Cujes, 24 May 2020

The big left to right traverse. Start 10m L of POD under large hueco. Stickclip then blast right (including some up and down climbing) along huge features to the crux transition climbing up to the big roof. Then jug upwards to glory. Better beta has seen this settle at 29.

FA: Lee Cujes, 13 May 2020

About 10m L of FTB. Note that this is not the warmup you are looking for. Two close bolts on initial tricky black wall to ledge. Third clip is reachy (if this was close to your limit you might like a #2 cam or panic quickdraw). Interesting, steeper wall climbing above relents to a slabby finish. Last few metres can remain damp after rain, eyeball it from the ground before starting.

FA: Lee Cujes, 19 Jun 2020

The scoop feature 10m L. Carefully traverse in across the ledge to clip first bolt and begin. Reasonably sustained with a crux lunge that is a bit more powerful than you want it to be at the grade.

FA: Lee Cujes, 13 May 2020

A great little testpiece. 5m L of FTD. Stickclip and traverse in from the L. Techy, bouldery moves past the second bolt on pockets to get established on the face above. Classy climbing on ripples and incuts from here to the top.

FA: @1293 & Lee Cujes, 9 May 2020

5m L of ASITD at the black face with small rooflet. Start at flake. Stickclip, then very powerfully up and right to tough second clip. Very thin to the third, then relax, it's in the can.

FA: Lee Cujes, 7 Jun 2020

Links from the second bolt on COVID into the third on Take Two.

FA: Jason McCarthy, 7 Jun 2020

Furthest L route up the gully. Three bolts to anchors. Stickclip!

FA: Sammi, 9 May 2020

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079082

The latest comprehensive, latest and greatest Blue Mountains Climbing Guide is here and it has more routes than you can poke a clip stick at! 3421 to be exact. You are not going to get bored.

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079075

Simon Carter's "Best of the Blue" is the latest selected climbing guide book for the Blue Mountains and covers 1000 routes and 19 different climbing areas. For all the sport climbers out there, the travellers, or just anyone who doesn't want to lug around the big guide that's more than 3 times the size - cut out the riff-raff and get to the good stuff! This will pretty much cover everything you need!

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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